Installation Guide
6
Installation
New Construction or Extensive Remodel – New Finished Wall Surface
1. Prior to sheetrock, stub-out ½" hot and cold supply lines beyond
finished wall surface, 4" on center. For best results, attach 90°
brass fittings (available at most hardware stores) to the stub-outs
maintaining ¼" – ½" of space between the fitting and finished
wall. The open end of the 90° brass fittings should point down
so the supply lines attach parallel to the wall.
1
2. For a person 5'8" – 6'2" we recommend the stub-outs be 37"
above finished floor.
2
3. Before installation, make certain that water is COMPLETELY
TURNED OFF to both hot & cold supply lines of shower.
4a. Mark location of holes for the mounts, making sure holes are
plumb. For a person 5'8" – 6'2", we recommend placing the top
hole of the upper mount 31" above the center of your stub-outs
(58" from finished floor height).
3
4b. Determine location for the lower mount. Measure the distance
between indents on the bottom edges of the two brackets on
back of ShowerSpa. Using this distance, measure down from the
top hole in upper mount to get the location of the top hole in
lower mount.
4c. Use the mounts to mark only one of the lower holes in each
mount, whichever is most convenient.
5. Before drilling holes, make certain that connecting to stub-outs
DOES NOT INTERFERE with backside of ShowerSpa and it is flush
with finished wall at desired mounting height.
2
6. Drill ¼" holes through wall surface using a masonry bit. Drill
slowly through wall surface to avoid cracking and chipping.
Insert anchors and securely screw brackets to wall. Before con-
necting hot and cold supply lines, hang the ShowerSpa on wall,
check the height and make sure the ShowerSpa is flush against
wall with a secure fit.
7. Connect hot and cold water supply lines to stub-outs—DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN. Before mounting the ShowerSpa, check fittings
to make sure they are secure. Turn on water and check for leaks.
When fittings are leak-free, mount ShowerSpa on wall.
8. OPTIONAL—Seal around body of ShowerSpa with a bead of
silicone. DO NOT SEAL BOTTOM.
Retrofit – Existing Shower Replacement
NOTE—In a remodel in which you are not replacing the finished wall surface (tile, or backing material) it is advisable to purchase a PULSE Show-
erSpa model that covers the location of your existing valve assembly—either single handle or two-handle type. If your PULSE ShowerSpa
model does not cover this area, you will need to either choose another PULSE ShowerSpa model that does or make necessary repairs with
appropriate materials (i.e. wallboard, tile, fiberglass, etc).
1. TURN OFF WATER SUPPLY TO SHOWER. Typically there is a
gate valve where the water main enters the house. Turning the
water valve off at hot water tank does not turn off cold water
supply line.
2. Make certain water is completely turned off to both hot & cold
supply lines of shower. Turn shower valve on, both hot and cold,
to VERIFY WATER SUPPLY IS OFF. Open a sink faucet in the
bathroom in which you are installing the ShowerSpa to relieve
any pressure and help adequately drain shower supply lines.
3. Remove handle(s) and trim cover(s) of your existing shower
valve, exposing valve body in wall.
4. Locate hot and cold supply lines entering valve. Using a recipro-
cating saw with sharp metal saw blade, cut existing valve out,
preserving threads of the supply lines entering valve. You should
also cut the riser within wall supplying the existing shower head.
Carefully twist and remove valve.
5. Unscrew old shower head from shower arm, then unscrew
shower arm from wall.
6. Water lines must be extended to the outside of wall cavity, 4"
on center. For best results, attach 90° brass fittings (available at
most hardware stores) to the stub-outs maintaining ¼" – ½" of
space between the fitting and finished wall. The open end of
the 90° brass fittings should point down so the supply lines at-
tach parallel to the wall.
1
7a. Mark location of holes for the mounts, making sure holes are
plumb. For a person 5'8" – 6'2", we recommend placing the top
hole of the upper mount 31" above the center of your stub-outs
(58" from finished floor height).
3
7b. Determine location for the lower mount. Measure the distance
between indents on the bottom edges of the two brackets on
back of ShowerSpa. Using this distance, measure down from the
top hole in upper mount to get the location of the top hole in
lower mount.
7c. Use the mounts to mark only one of the lower holes in each
mount, whichever is most convenient.
8. Before drilling holes, make certain that connecting to stub-outs
DOES NOT INTERFERE with backside of ShowerSpa and it is flush
with finished wall at desired mounting height.
2
9. Drill ¼" holes through wall surface using a masonry bit. Drill
slowly through wall surface to avoid cracking and chipping.
Insert anchors and securely screw brackets to wall. Before con-
necting hot and cold supply lines, hang ShowerSpa on wall,
check the height and make sure ShowerSpa is flush against the
wall with a secure fit.
10. Connect hot and cold water supply lines to stub-outs—DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN. Before mounting the ShowerSpa, check fittings
to make sure they are secure. Turn on water and check for leaks.
When fittings are leak-free, mount ShowerSpa on wall.
11. OPTIONAL—Seal around body of ShowerSpa with a bead of
silicone. DO NOT SEAL BOTTOM.
1
Additional fittings or longer supply lines may be necessary depending on your specific situation.
2
The desired mounting height of ShowerSpa determines, or is determined by location of the ½" stub-outs.
3
The mounting height can vary depending on several factors (i.e. location of supply lines, interference from ShowerSpa plumbing, old valve access area,
personal preference, etc.)