Specifications

Chapter 10. Helicopter Construction
10.1. General tips for all helicopters
10.1.1. Building
Do not rush building the helicopter. Take your time and be very careful with everything, and
make sure everything moves smoothly. If all moving linkages do not move smoothly, then the
helicopter may have vibration problems later which will make hovering very difficult. A few ex-
tra hours spent making sure linkages move smoothly will pay off later when you shorten your
hovering learning time by a few months.
10.1.2. Threadlock
Only use threadlock on metal-to-metal areas. Do not use threadlock on:
• metal-to-plastic areas
• plastic-to-plastic areas
• setscrews (will become nearly impossible to remove)
• bearings
Blue threadlock is temporary, for stuff which may require disassembly later (after a crash, etc).
Red threadlock is permanent, for stuff which will never be disassembled.
Example:
• Blue threadlock for the tail blade grip screw
• Red threadlock for the swashplate ball screws
To disassemble loctited parts, apply heat of over 100C/212F. This should soften the loctite
enough to remove the parts.
10.1.3. Gear lubrication
Do not lubricate any exposed gears. This will only make the gears sticky and pick up grit,
which will cause premature gear wear. It is okay to grease gears in enclosed gearboxes such
as the Corona tail gears. When using lubrication, be sure to use a grease which will not soften
plastic, such as a silicon or lithium grease. Tri-flow synthetic grease (available at most bike
shops) also works very well.
10.1.4. Frame assembly
When assembling a plastic frame with metal screws (e.g. ECO 8/16 and Logo 10) be sure to
use a jeweler's screwdriver or a Wiha with a small handle to assemble the frame. If you use a
large-handled screwdriver you will not be able to feel when the screw is fully inserted and you
will probably strip the hole in the plastic frame.
10.1.5. Stripped threads
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