User guide

27
DSK-715 Tool Free Caliper Adjustments
The brake pads will be worn during braking, which means the clearance between the two pads will be greater and
the braking feeling will be worse. The brake cable can also stretch and the cable will need to be tightened from time
to time. (SEE PHOTOS ON NEXT FEW PAGES)
The Promax DSK-715 brakes need to be adjusted properly to offer ultimate stopping power. The caliper
includes a separate outside pad adjusting knob which allows the outside pad to be adjusted closer to the
rotor as it wears. This appears as a red dial behind the caliper that you can adjust without the use of tools.
Simply rotate the red dial clockwise or counterclockwise to tighten or loosen the adjustments. The inside
pad can be adjusted closer to the rotor simply by re-tightening of the cable at the disc caliper arm and cable
lock plate. If on the road for a ride and needing to tightening brakes, this can be performed via the barrel
adjuster bolt at the brake lever and the barrel adjuster bolt at the brake caliper. When adjusting through the
barrel bolts located at the lever assembly or caliper, you should re-tighten the cable through the caliper arm
and lock plate after the ride. You will need to screw the barrel bolts back into their full in positions prior to
adjusting at the caliper arm. The amount of adjustment via the caliper arm should be limited to less than
1mm. The brake calipers have the ability to slide inward and outwards by loosening the caliper adapter
bolts and sliding the caliper either way. For best performance, your brakes should be adjusted through the
movement of the caliper and the red outside pad adjusting knob.
Note: The “inside pad” is the pad closest to the brake caliper; the “outside pad” is the pad closest to the
wheel motor or hub.
Your brakes should only be adjusted if stopping power has decreased or your bicycle will not stop properly.
A good way to test your front brake is to get on your bike and with both feet on the ground, squeeze your
front brake lever by applying full pressure. Attempt to push your bike forward while squeezing the front
brake lever only. The front brake should hold the bicycle back and when pushing, the rear wheel should lift
off the ground. If pushing and the bike moves forward including the front wheel turning, your brake needs to
be adjusted or new brake pads are needed. If the bikes slides forward and the tire does not spin, try this
test on a surface with more traction. If your pads need replacing, section d “Brake pad replacement” of this
chapter explains details on replacing brake pads.
To adjust your brakes in a quick and simple manner, follow these guidelines. These guidelines do not replace a
proper adjustment from an authorized dealer but will allow you to increase braking power.
Check the brake lever assembly first and confirm the brake adjusting barrel is completely screwed in.
Check the adjusting bolt at the caliper also and confirming it is threaded fully in.
Next, check to confirm the cable is tight. To check if the cable is tight, squeeze the front brake lever and
see if the disc brake caliper arm responds instantly when squeezing. If only squeezing the lever ¼”, the
brake caliper arm should move instantly. If not, the cable is loose and needs adjusting first.
To adjust and re-tension the cable, confirm the adjusting barrel is fully screwed into the brake lever
assembly. At the disc brake caliper arm, loosen the cable fixing bolt with the included 5mm hex key in the
multi-piece tool kit that came with your bicycle. Without moving the caliper arm to a different angle, pull on
the cable until tight and confirm cable housing and ferrules are seated properly in brake housing guides.
Once tight, tighten the cable fixing bolt to secure the cable, confirming the cable is between the cable lock
plate and groove on the brake arm. Cable fixing bolt should be tightened to 40 lb*in.
CAUTION: Do not use the brake lever and caliper adjusting barrel bolts to tension the cables permanently. This
will cause the brake modulation to change, resulting in decreased braking action.
Now that the cable is tight, check to make sure the pad clearance is properly set to the disc rotor. For
example at the front brakes, look through the front of the fork to the caliper and pay attention to the area
where the center of the caliper over laps the disc rotor. You will see the two pads, one on each side of the
rotor. The pads should look as if touching the rotors.
The outside pad which is adjusted by the red knob can be moved inwards by rotating the knob with no tools
required. The inboard pad can be adjusted via the caliper barrel bolt but by no more than 1mm.
Lift the front wheel off the ground and spin the wheel. If you feel a brake resistance or hear pads rubbing
hard, you may need to readjust. You should be able to adjust properly for the wheel to spin freely with none
to little brake drag.
Your brakes are now adjusted. If these adjustments did not allow for a proper brake adjustment, check your
brake pads for too much wear or cables not properly adjusted. Check the adjustment of your cables. Check
for less than 1/2mm brake pad lining.
Testing your cables for a proper adjustment - turn the adjusting barrel at the brake lever assembly, this will
cause the cable to tighten and the brake caliper arm to move. If the brake caliper arm moves with the
turning of the adjusting barrel, your cable should be properly adjusted. If adjusted properly, refer to section
d “Brake pad replacement” of this chapter.