Installation Instructions
042-14 CFS Solid Hardwood Flooring Installation Instructions Page | 4
DRY: Moisture content of sub-floor must not exceed 12% prior to installation of wood flooring. All moisture testing must be
done before wood has been acclimated for a minimum of 72 hours and job-site requirements met.
CAUTION: WOOD DUST
The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen as well as an eye and
skin irritant. In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes. In case of severe irritation; seek
immediate medical attention.
ATTENTION CALIFORNIA INSTALLERS AND CONSUMERS WARNING!
Installation of this product may create wood dust which is known to the State of California to cause Cancer. Sawing,
sanding, and/or machining of wood products can produce wood dust that can cause respiratory, eye, and skin irritations.
Equipment should be equipped with a dust collector to reduce airborne wood dust. Wear an appropriate NIOSH
designated dust mask to reduce exposure to airborne wood dust. Avoid wood dust contact with eyes.
STEP 5: Installing the Floor
Open several different cartons and mix the pieces to maximize the color and shade variations.
Install the product parallel to the longest wall to provide the most appealing visual effect.
Stagger the ends of the boards at least 10” in adjacent rows to insure a random visual effect.
Allow for a ½” minimum expansion gap around all fixed vertical objects that reach the substrate. Solid Wood as well as the
housing structure expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Wood will buckle and break loose if an adequate
expansion space is not provided. ALWAYS provide for expansion space when fitting flooring adjacent to vertical objects (i.e.
walls, baseboards, door frames and facings, pipes, etc.).
DOORWAY/WALL PREPARATION:
Undercut all door casings, including all door frames, and all fixed vertical structures, 1/16” higher than the thickness of the
floor being installed where quarter round or surface trim cannot be used.
Remove existing base and shoe molding on wall as well as doorway thresholds. Trim may be reapplied after the installation
is complete.
PREPARING THE INSTALLATION:
Before starting, measure the width of the room, and divide the room’s width by the width of the plank. If this means that the last row of
planks will be narrower than 2”, you will need to cut the first and last row of planks to be installed in such a way that the first and last
rows of planks will have the same approximate width for an overall continuous look. To cut the boards, always saw with the saw
teeth rotating or cutting down into the face or top of the board. Cutting from the top down helps protect the surface from excess
chipping. Use a carbide tip blade to ensure smooth cuts.
Always install CFS Solid Hardwood Flooring with the groove side of the plank facing the wall, and with the installer positioned off the
floor when possible.
Begin the installation at the corner of the room so that the groove side can be placed against the starting wall. Be sure to leave an
expansion gap of approximately 1/2. If the starting wall is not straight, it may be necessary to create a straight chalk line from marks at
each end of the row, at a distance from the wall based on the width of the boards on the first row plus 1/2" , allowing the opposite side of
the row to present a true square line for the installation of rest of the floor. Once the installation of the first row is complete, there will be
an extra piece from the last plank which, if long enough, may be used to begin the next row. To locate the best starting point, an
exterior wall is usually the straightest and best reference line to start the installation from. If possible, the direction of the flooring
being installed should be at right angles to the floor joists. Establish a starting line by leaving a minimum ½” expansion gap around all
vertical obstructions. In at LEAST 2 places, measure out equal distances from the starting wall equal to the width of the starting
plank calculated earlier in this section regarding the room width and plank width. Allow for all doors and openings as well as the 1/2"
expansion space needed at all fixed vertical structures. Mark these points and snap a working chalk line parallel to the starting wall
allowing the required expansion space between the starting wall and the edge of the first row of flooring. Plan the floor layout
(width-wise) so you don’t have to rip (which is cutting the board lengthwise to make it narrower) the last row NARROWER than 2”.
You may have to measure and calculate the width of the FIRST row to ensure that the LAST row is at LEAST 2” wide.
INSTALLING THE FIRST ROWS:
Establish your starting row (SEE ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT ABOVE).
Using a pneumatic brad nailer, face-nail the groove side of the boards (first row only) ½” from the edge at 6” intervals and
1” – 2” from each end; then at a 45 degree angle down through the nailing pocket on top of the tongue. Another option is
to pre-drill the face-nail holes ½” from the groove edge of the first row, 1” – 2” from each end, and at 6” intervals. Pre-drill
at the same intervals at a 45 degree angle down through the nailing pocket on top of the tongue. Face-nail the groove side
where it is pre-drilled. When the face-nailing is complete, blind-nail at a 45 degree angle using 4d or 6d nails. Countersink