MODEL SZA-645F I C S.
j SOME SAFETY RULES 1. Be careful when sewing that your fingerswill not be injured by the needle. 2. Make sure you pull out the power cord plug whenever you want to change needle, sewing foot, bobbin or needle plate, when you clean and oil the machine, or when you have to interrupt sewing and leave the machine for a while. 3. Be sure to use only a 15-watt light bulb in the sewing lamp.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Know The Parts Front View Back View Accessories Extension Plate Handle Needles And Threads Ball Point Needles Changing Needle Changing Presser Foot Threading Machine Winding Bobbin Bobbin Winder Stop Threading Upper Threa d Removing Bobbin Ca se Threading Bobbin Ca se Inserting Bobbin Case Bringing Up Lower Th read Controls Stitch Pattern Limit Lever Stitch Length Reverse Stitch Tension of Upper Th read Tension of Lower Th read Pressure Fabric Feed Sewing Light And Lig ht Switch Thart for
3 Stretch Stitching Stretch Straight Stitch 3-Step Stretch Zig-zag Stitch Rickrack Stitch Slant Overlock Stitch Feather Stitch Decorative Stitching Top Stitching Feather Stitch Rickrack Stitch Adjusting Stitch Balance Double Needle Turning a Square Corner Smocking Monograms Appliques Embroidery Finishes Seam Edges Overlock Stitch Slant Overlock Stitch Hems Blindstitching Buttons Thread Shank Buttonholes Stitching Buttonhole Zippers Corded Seam Mending And Darning Tears Patches Darning Caring for Your Machin
KNOW THE PARTS FRONT VIEW 12 10 11 18 19 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Handle Limit lever Upper thread guide Take-up lever Dial tension Thread tension Thread guide Needle bar Needle clamp Needle plate Shuttle Cover 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
BACK VIEW 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 37 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Spool pins Bobbin winder Bobbin winder stop Stop motion knob Hand wheel Main switch Belt cover Socket 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37.
Accessories rz 14(f)t L14 3 2 I 4 9 8 7 10 11 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 3 Bobbins 3 Needles (Size 14) 1 Double needle (Size 14) 2 Felt pads (for spool pins) Zipper foot Straight stitch foot 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.
EXTENSiON PLATE To attach extension plate, set ex tension plate around the free arm plate of machine from the left side. • In case of setting the extension plate, you can use it for flat bed sewing machine. • In case of removing the extension plate, you can use it for free arm sewing machine. Accessory box ACCESSORY BOX Accessories for your sewing machine are located in the built-in accessory box on the right side of extension plate.
NEEDLES AND THREADS stitching. The needle and thread you choose depends upon the fabric you are of light weight The correct needle size is important to avoid damaging the fibers g heavy or tightly woven fabrics, and to prevent needle breakage when stitchin or stiff fabrics. Needle size fine Fabric - iiireau . . polyester • cotton covered polyester • fine mercerized cotton (70-100) • silk A light weight knits, jerseys, silk, batiste, taffeta, satin, lace, crepe .
CHANGING NEEDLE Raise needle to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw and remove needle. Place new needle so its flat side faces back. Push up into needle clamp as far as possible. Tighten screw with a screwdriver. t Turn hand wheel toward you one com plete rotation to be sure needle is correctly positioned. CHANGING PRESSER FOOT Snap-On Presser Foot Snaps on and off a master shank for quick and easy changes.
_ THREADING MACHINE WINDING BOBBIN and Place spool of thread on spool pin sure thread as shown in illustration. Be on thread goes under tension disc slot. bobbin thread guide and through es in hol Put thread through one of the outside. empty bobbin from inside to bin Push bobbin down firmly on bob in slot h wit e hin spindle at top of mac bin bob on bobbin fitting into spring dle to spindle. Push bobbin and spin the right.
THREADING UPPER THREAD Raise presser foot and needle to its highest posit ion by turning hand wheel toward you. )fl as n le d. Place thread on Spool pin, and pass thread through according to the numbers shown in the illust ration.
REMOVING BOBBIN CASE Raise needle to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Pull out slide plate. Lift open hinged latch of bobbin case and pull case straight out of machine. Bobbin will remain in case as long as latch is open. To remove bobbin, hold bobbin case down, close latch, and bobbin will fall out. THREADING BOBBIN CASE Hold bobbin as shown in illustration so that thread goes over top of bobbin and away from you. Place bobbin in case without turning it around.
INSERTING BOBBIN CASE Be sure that 15 cm of thread extends out of bobbin. Hold bobbin case so long finger on case points up. Open latch. Slip case over center pin in shuttle and press in place until long finger enters notch. Release latch, and press down. Close slide plate. BRINGING UP LOWER THREAD Raise presseT foot. Hold needle thread loosely with your left hand.
CONTROLS 1 42 1 \‘ lizi ‘ Y k9 D Ill HI 0 -to-use stitch pattern dial to On the front of the machine, you will find the easy decorative and utility select the different stitches. You can produce a variety of stitches, including stretch stitches. erlined iii Yellow NOTE: Before selecting one of the super zigzag stitches (und (stitch length on stitch indication panel), first turn reverse stitch dial dial) to 5 (yellow mark).
STITCH LENGTH Stitch length dial regulates the length of stitch. When you set stitch length dial at 0 position, machine does not feed fabrics. According to turning the stitch length dial to right-ward, the length of stitch is going to be longer. In case of setting the stitch length dial at 5 position (max), the length of stitch will be maximum. When you have a buttonhole sewing, the stitch length dial should be set near by the buttonhole symbol.
TENSION OF UPPER THREAD Tension on the upper thread can be easily adjusted by turning dial on front of the tension discs. Your machine, has been set at the factory for even thread tension at 6 setting. However, you may have to adjust the tension when using different threads or sewing on fabrics of dif ferent thicknesses. Loosen tension somewhat when zig-zag stitching. The wider the zig-zag, the less tension needed. Use 3 setting when sewing buttonholes, monogram ing and embroidering.
TENSION OF LOWER THREAD If you are unable to balance the stitch by adjusting tension on the upper thread, you may have to make a slight adjustment in the bobbin tension. Take out bobbin case, remove bobbin and clean out any dust or lint which has collected around the case. Turn screw on bobbin case slightly in either direction using the small screw driver: To increase tension turn screw slightly to the right. — To decrease tension slightly to the left.
FABRiC FEED The Fabric Feed or teed dog moves fabric forward or backward under the It can be raised or presser foot. lowered by depressing the fabric feed plate located at the right of the shuttle. For ordinary straight or Zigzag stitch ) down. This ing, depress plate ( raises fabric feed to its highest position. For darning, embroidering and sewing )down on buttons, depress plate ( to lower the fabric feed so fabric can be thoved freely b’ hand.
CHART FOR MAKING DIFFERENT TYPES OF STITCHES ree Straight stitching Adjust as needed çç Zig-zag stitching Full zig-zag stitching Super zig-zag stitching 3 42 Buttonhole sewing 1 ii:i Double needle sewing Em broide ring and darning NOTE: Before selecting one of the super zigzag stitches (underlined in Yellow on stitch indication panel), first turn reverse stitch dial (stitch length dial) to 5 (yellow mark).
OPERATION OF THE MACHINE Raise the presser foot (33) by lifting the presser foot lifter (30). Place the fabric to be sewn under the presser foot and lower presser foot onto the fabric. Turn the hand wheel (23) toward you until the needle enters the fabric and you are ready to sew. The fabric will be fed forward with the movement of the feed dog. Do not try to help the feeding of the fabric by pulling it with your hand, as this may bend the needle and cause it to become blunt or break.
USING THE CLOTH GUIDE AND THUMB SCREW This is an attachment, which you will find in the accessory box, designed as a guide for straight stitching when making wide hems, pin tucks or when seam widths are wider than the presser foot allows. Fasten the cloth guide to the bed of the machine by means of the thumb screw, inserting the thumb screw into a hole in the bed of the machine. Adjust the cloth guide to the required distance from the needle and tighten thumb screw.
STRAIGHT STITCHING STRAIGHT STITCH Machine Setting Presser foot Straight stitch zig-zag foot 1 — Stitch pattern Umit lever Stitch length ] çFree Fabric feed WA I This is the most usual type of stitching. Use either the straight stitch foot for greater control or the zig-zag foot. When using the straight stitch foot, be sure stitch pattern knob is in the straight stitch position to prevent needle from hitting presser foot. Adjust stitch length according to your fabric.
Basting Machine basting is very useful for join ing seams for trial fittings, marking construction guidelines, and basting pleats and hems. Use longest stitch possible, setting stitch length at 5. Loosen tension on upper thread. Choose thread color to contrast with your fabric so it can be easily seen. --s-- Basting stitches can be removed easily by clipping upper thread, then pulling out lower thread.
ZlG-ZAG STiTCHING ZIG-ZAG STITCH Machine Setting Presser foot j Stitch pattern Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed Zig-zag foOt Be sure to use zig-zag foot. You can make any number of combi nations by adjusting zig-zag width and stitch length. Both knobs can be turned while machine is running. How ever if machine is not running, turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to its highest position before adjusting stitch pattern knob. / ‘I ‘N Tension on upper thread usually needs to be loosened.
Shell Stitch Edging A decorative edge treatment for lingerie and other soft fabrics can be made with the blindstitch. Fold under edge of fabric. Set stitch length between 2 and 4. Tighten upper thread tension so stitches will pull in fabric, forming a scalloped edge. Place edge of folded fabric under presser foot from the right, so fólded edge is on the left. Stitch along folded edge. I Bartacks Use to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets, belt loops, zipper openings, and lingerie straps.
STRETCH STITCHING When sewing knitted or stretch fabrics, cho ose one of the stretch stitches which allows the seam to stretch with the fabric without breaking the thread. Select polyester or cotton covered polyester thre ad which has an extra amount of give and is designed for knits and stretch fab rics. Use a ball point needle, especially on lightweight knits, and the stretch stitc h foot.
Use to overcast edges of seams, facings and hems to prevent raveling and to keep lightweight knits from rolling. Besides knits use for edges of thin easily frayed fabrics which have a tendency to pucker when overcast with ordinary zig-zag. Also suitable for overcasting heavy fabrics such as wool ens and terrycloth. Use for attaching elastic. Mark elastic and garment waistline in fourths. Place elastic over fabric and pin together at the markings..
DECORATIVE STITCHING A peat variety of decorative stitching can be created by using one or more rows of a special stitch pattern, by combining different stitches, and by using a double needle even monograming, appliqueing and embroidering. —- TOP STITCHiNG You can accent lines of a garment with one or more rows of topstitching along collars, lapels, yokes, facing edges, pockets, cuffs, seams and hems. For a tailored look, use regular straight stitch, sewing with buttonhole twist for added emphasis.
RICKRACK STITCH more sing a with ilong dges, aight twist aight w of Machine Setting Presser foot —- Limit lever Stitch pattern Stitch length Fabric feed Stretch stitch Rickrack stitch is a triple stitched zig-zag that resembles rickrack trim, It is reversible, look ing the same on both the right and wrong sides.
MONOG RAMS ii - 1 Many decorative stitches can be used to add a personal touch by monograming a dress or blouse, writing a name on children’s clothes, or initialing household linens. Very simple straight-line monograms can be made with the straight stretch stitch. Use the satin stitch for script or block letters, either alone or in combination with other decorative -stitches. Try varying needle position and zig-zag width to obtain special effects. (See page 30 for machine sett ing).
EMBROIDERY Machine Setting— Presser toot or Stitch pattern F Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed None in a! Free-motion embroidery allows you to move the fabric in any direction under the needle in order to create your de sign. Use either a straight stitch or a plain zig-zag stitch. a It Trace design on right side of fabric. best results, place fabric in an embroidery hoop.
FINISHES Many of the finishing touches in a garment can be done by your machine over casting seams, hemming, making buttonholes, sewing on buttons, and inserting zippers. SEAM EDGES Seam edges in fabrics that fray nust be stitched or “overcast” to prevent raveling during wear and washing. Press seam open and stitch each side separately. — • Choose pattern stitch best suited for your fabric. • Adjust stitch length and stitch width to suit fabric.
SLANT OVERLOCK STITCH Machine Setting over se r ting ve1 ing Presser fool — Stitch pattcrn Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed Stretch stitch foot --- ire the I show Slant overlock stitch is more flexible than the overlock stitch. Use for knits and stretch fabrics. When using Method I, (see page 31) place stitches so slanted zig-zag stitches fall over edge of fabric. ZIG-ZAG STITCH Zig-zag stitch can be used for overcast ing in more firmly woven fabrics.
HE M — Hem can be made quickly and easily with no hand sewing by using the blindstitch. BLJNDSTITCH Machine Setting— Presser foot Stitch pattern Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed Zig-zag foot Blindstitch consists of four straight stitches and one zig-zag or blind stitch. It provides a durable hem that is almost invisible when using thread the same color as the fabric. Only the blind stitches will show on right side of garment. Best suited for straight or slightly curved hems.
BUTTONS } Machine Setting Presser foot Stitch pattern Limit lever Stitch length Button sewing foot Fabric feed — — I —I —I —I—I—I — — You can sew both two and four hole buttons with your machine. Change presser foot to the button sew: ing foot and be sure to lower fabric feed by turning knob to ( ). Place button under button sewing foot. Set stitch pattern knob the same width as the hole in the button.
BUTTONHOLES 0 Machine Setting Presser foot Stitch pattern Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed Adjust as needed 3421 Buttonhole ] Your machine has a built-in button holer just dial the stitch pattern knob for the four steps in stitching a• buttonhole. — I’ • Mark position and length of button hole on fabric. Length of the hole is determined by the width plus The thickness of the button. finished buttonhole should be 3mm longer than this measurement to allow for bar tacks at each end.
Stitching Buttonhole STEP I Stitch pattern feed I 1 1 I I I 4 2 2 )uttOflpattern ching a )uttonw hole h plus The e 3mm ent to id. hich is ‘er the I I [ 3 I 1 Turn stitch pattern knob to #1. Place fabric under buttonhole foot so needle enters fabric on the mark at end -nearest you. Machine stitches first row in reverse. Stitch right side of buttonhole the desired length. Raise needle to its highest position. STEP 2— Turn stitch pattern knob to #2. Make 5 or 6 stitches for first bartack.
ZIPPERS Machine Setting — Zipper foot allows you to stitch right next to a raised area such as a zipper or cording. The foot is adjustable so it can be moved to the left or right side of the needle without having to turn the fabric. Raise needle to its highest position, attach zipper foot, and set dials for straight stitching. Left side of needle To adjust foot for left side of needle: loosen screw at back of foot and slide foot to the left so that needle passes through notch on right side of foot.
MENDING AND DARNING MENDING Machine Setting or ‘abric feed Presser foot Stitch pattern Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed Zig-zag foot /W\ stitch right as a zipper justable so r right side rig to turn Stretch stitch foot K) Tears and patches can be stitche easily and quickly with zig-zag or 3. step stretch zig-zag stitch. position, dials for Tears of needle: t and slide dle passes .e of foot. ;ure it will ten thumb Trim ragged edges.
DARNING Machine Setting Presser foot I Stitch pattern Limit lever Stitch length Fabric feed zree None Worn spots on clothing and household linens can be darned easily with your machine. Completely release pressure on fabric by turning fabric feed knob to ( E!), and by pressing down on outer ring of pressure regulator until center button pops up. For greater control, especially when darning larger areas, place fabric in embroidery hoop.
CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE CLEANING Your machine will always work well if you take a few moments to keep it clean. If lint and bits of thread ac cumulate under needle plate, around fabric feed and in the shuttle, this will interfere with the operation of your machine. Check occasionally and clean whenever necessary. • Before cleaning, disconnect cord from outlet. • Remove needle plate and slide plate. • To remove shuttle: raise needle to its highest position and remove bobbin case.
Inside Face__Plate open and oil all friction points. — OILING Your machine needs to be oiled once every week if used frequently and every day if machine is in continual use. If machine has not been used for a period of time, oil before you start sewing. swing face plate moving parts at Place a drop of best quality sewing machine oil at each of the points shown in the pictures: It is important that you do not give the machine too much oil which will only run out and spot your fabric.
PROBLEMS ed once tly and ntinual en used ore you In most cases, poor sewing results are due to a damaged needle. examine needle first before checking other items. 1. SKIPPING STITCHES • bent or blunt needle • wrong size needle • needle inserted incorrectly • upper thread tension too tight • pressure on presser foot too light 2.
5. LOWER THREAD BREAKS • bobbin case threaded incorrectly • bobbin case inserted incorrectly in machine • bobbin wound unevenly • bobbin wound too full • bobbin tension too tight • needle plate hole has sharp edges • bent bobbin • poor quality thread 6. FABRIC PUCKERS • bent or blunt needle • upper thread tension too tight • both upper and lower tensions too tight • using two different sizes or kinds of thread • fabric too sheer or soft (use tissue paper underlay) 7.
