CPFAFFD® 90 .1 INSTRUCTIONS FOREWORD Your dream has come true! You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff 90, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing, ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may come up in a home. This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun for you. Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing.
GR 022 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Foce cover Take-up lever Thread retainer Spool pins Stitch width dial Needle position lever Bobbin winder 8 9 10 11 12 13 Balance wheel Stop motion knob Stitch length control Reverse feed control Bed slide PFAFF rotary sewing hook 2 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Dual-purpose needle plate Sewing foot thumb screw Light switch Needle thread tension Presser bar lifter Needle set screw Sewing toot
GR 050 9un?amentats c6 cii /t’tathine Qji2ati eel, turn it toward you to turn the balance wh e hav you ver ene • Wh ). shown by black arrow (counter-clockwise as htened balance wheel is tig motion knob on the • Make sure stop ing. before you begin sew fabric under the ne unless you have chi ma d de ea thr a • Never run sewing foat. foot before you put k under the sewing bac ds ea thr h bot ce • Pla fabric into the machine. ing foot auto terial under the sew ma the d fee l wil • The machine work.
R 8218A Cj,ratitn t’t Engaging the Sewing Mechanism .4 Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise. Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clockwise (toward you). The sewing mechanism is then disengaged for bobbin winding. I I cj’taEe cxtensicn To enlarge the sewing orea of portable machines, an extension may be attached to the left side of the bedplafe. This extension is kept on the left of the carrying case.
Mecanismo pam despegue del motor En su mOquina, a Ia derecha, par debajo del volante de maniobro, se encuentro una palanca, que debe de girarse hacia abojo, sobre to marco de punto. En tot formo, viene a colocarse el motor en posiciOn de servtcio. En casos de no usor to mâquina por tiempos proiongodos, conviene despegar et motor otra vez y ponerto en posiciôn de reposo. En tal posiceón puede coserse a pedal tambien con Jo máquino elêctnca, sn que ci motor tenga que giror unto.
Moeorabhebevorrkhtung ht, den Sie vor dem dem Handrod em Heb: angebrac An Hirer Maschine ist rechis unter ke drehen. Dodurch befindet sich der Motor in Arbeits Ndhen nach unten zii der Punkimar stellung. l wieder on. Der Motor Nâharbeit heben Sie den Hebe einer mit Elektromotor bei Bei langerer Unterbrechung lhrer Sie en könn r Loge diese lung. fri mitzubewegen.
‘cw t’iO? 2 into receptacle 3 on foot Push plug 1 into wall outlet and plug control. L 14? Foot Drive nt driving belt. To switch on Push sewlight plug into wall outlet. Mou Before you drop the machine sewlight, push button on face cover. l, pulling it to the right. remove the belt from the stand whee 4 Foot Control et within easy reach of your Place the foot control under the cabin rol pedal and press. The harder foot. Rest the right foot on the cont run.
GR 018 set: 4 For straight-stitch sewing 0 Dial A Center Lever B — — For detailed instructions please Control 6 regulates the stitch length. of a seam, simply depress the refer to page 18. To backtack the end finger-tip control.
GR 052 9 $ivinj ip4 If you want to switch from straight (A on ,,O”) to zigzag stitching, turn dial A to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 4). Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the slot, as desired. The position of lever B (left, center, right) indicates the position of the needle in the needle plate slot.
GR 014 7?.euIooinfJ the 73c66iui Ca.ce The needle has to clear the needle-plate. Lift front end of bed slrde and pull. Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand and pull out bobbin case with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.
— - nil tOmn?tnj th 73c66in Disengage the sewing mechanism (see page 4) and flick presser bar lifter to highest position. Raise the spool pins to the vertical position. Place spool of thread on one of the spooi pins and set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that the key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin.
a 9uU 73c66í, inic ?t’ in 66 Ca.c As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case. - 0 R 5867 Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot. Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
N .Dns2rtmnf7 he 3c66in Ca52 lift the latch with Raise take-up lever to its highest point and Turn bobbin case the thumb and forefinger of your right hond. case on center bobbin until slot points up (see arrow). Place stud s of hook. hold the loose end In replacing the bobbin case, it is •best to between bobbin case of thread so that it will not get jammed against bobbin case and hook. Release the latch and press irrproperly inserted bob until you hear it snap into place.
Types of Fabrics Mercerized Cotton Silk Needle Size usie Fine Fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, botiste, voile, lawn, silk. Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks arid cottons, sheer woolens, shirting, draperies. Medium Fabrics such as lightweight wooiens, madras, muslin, brocades, heavy silks and rayon, gabardine. 80 to 100 70 to 80 50 to 70 0 to 000 . twi St A & 3 tWist B&C twist Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orion, dacron, plastics, etc. 40 to 50 3 an ‘7ha? I 1=.
£Juicttwt 9acLc a6,t4t /?tc On Pfaff 90 sewing machines, System 130 R, flotshank needles are usd for oil ordinary sewing ond embroidery work. The last column in the chart on page 12 gives you the needle size required for the material in hand. Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 R, are available from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used. Chainj tk /t Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
Urni In 9 (ha Place spool of thread on one of the spool pins 1 and lead thread end through both thread retainer openings 2. Lead thread clockwise around tension and pull it between any two of the tension discs 3. Make sure that the presser bar lifter is at its top position II (see page 21). Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass thread from right to left through the hale at its end and into slot at left of thread guide 5. Then thread needle, front to back.
Ci,e ‘Zeniu,n 9 7 u (aa c cn Balanced tensions ore essential for sewing. If your tension is correct, you will have perfect seams as sketched below (Ill). Sketch I The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric. Cause: — Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. Sketch II The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric. — Cause: Upoer tension too tight or lower tnsion too loose. OR 046 I. 9 Za ,in U tk 73i’66mn Ii A Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand.
irr F’ 79u1atis19 th ‘7ha ‘7nietn The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw on the bobbin case with the tip of your thumb as fol lov,s: Turn it left --E for looser tension.
$atch nh 7fp4tatiin The stitch length control sees to regulate the stitch length and to limit it in sewing backwards. Numbers 0 to 9 on the control indicate the stitch length {the higher the number, the longer the stitch). When the control is set on “0”, the machine ceases feeding, the longest stitch is obtained by setting the control on “9” (about 6 stitches to the inch). To regulat e the stitch length, turn the control until the desired number is fully visible at the top of the slot (see arrow).
ChanfJmn7 th Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positio ns and turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left.
eraIn, /tt,tl 1ahine 1 4 Remove the sewing foot and the bed slide. Lift front end of needle plate and tilt out. Turn needle plate half a turn so that raised portion is at the front (see illustration) and replace. Press down stud and replace bed slide. Thread the needle with doming wool and flick presser bar lifter to position I (see page 21).
nin 9 a 7 Remove the sewing foot. Attoch darning foot No. 847 610 from the rear. Hold spring cli.p c so that ii is behind the needle set screw, and tighten screw b. If your sewing machine has a presser bar lifter with only position II, use darning foot No. 93-100154-91. c II c WC7CJitiC1 Zes5 a 7 4i( When the presser bar lifter is flicked to position I, the presser bar is raised but the needle thread tension is still activated (important for embroidering and darning).
Cate 4I1 1 a 4 intena,ice Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regu lar and proper cleaning and oiling. Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate machine with anim al or vegetable oils. All moving and rotating ports requ ire regular lubrication. Begin unde r the bedplate. If you hove a portable machine, tilt it back, loosen the large thum b screw on the underside of the machine base, and remove the base.
There are two openings in the rim of the stitch width dial, one on the left and the other at the back (see arrows). These openings ore the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism. Do not lubricate the bob bin winder. The raceway in the sewing hook is the mo st important oiling poi Put one drop of oil int nt. o the raceway each day you sew (see picture at lop right). (rom time to time, remove the needle pla te and clean the machi feed with a soft brush. ne Take a toothpick and remove accumulations of packed lint.
GR 024 3u1 7 Ckanjij th bifjht 6 The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfectly. To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the bulb into its socket, turn left, and pull out. When inserting sew light bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press bulb in cpd turn right. V 7iicoIn tk ac Cco To change the light bulb or oil the parts at the needle-bar end, remove the face cover by pulling it upwards.
e 111 14 $h,ctt 6 Y 7 ‘ 1 1. Machine Skips Stitches Cause: Remedy: Needle incorrectly inserted. Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove faces toward you, and flat side of shank away from you. Wrong needle. Choose the correct needle from chart on page 12. (For ordinary sewing, use System 130 R needles.) Needle bent. Insert new needle. Machine threaded improperly. Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 14 and 15. Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.
3. Needle Breaks Cause: Remedy: Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook. Replace needle at once to prevent further damage. Needle too thin or thread too heavy. Use correct needle and thread sizes. Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate. Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly. Bobbin case inserted incorrectly. Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. 4. Faulty Stitch Formalion Cause: Remedy: Improper tension. Adjust tensions as instructed.
6. Machine Works Heavily Cause: Hocyk raceway lacks oil or is obstructe d by pieces of thread. Mechanism clogged by inferior oil. Bobbin winder working while sewing. Remedy: Clean and oil hook raceway. Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil — never salad oil or glycerine. Stop bobbin winder. Thread Jamming The new PFAFF rotary hook will not normally jam, even if the machine shou ld be handled improperly.
I’LcinfJ $ewinfy et Zipper Insertion Machine Setting: A—0 1?11 ta€h$ft?IltS (setting see page 6) Edge Stitching 8476OO B—i. Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper depends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zip per. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across end and up the other side in one continuous operation. Use right edge of foot as a guide. V Machine Setting: A- 0 to 4.B-.
847 56 Flat Felled Seams Machine Setting: A —0 or 2 B — fobric. They ore Flat felled seams ore used to durobly join two pieces of ions. operot mode in two zigzag stitches are Flat felled seoms usually are straight-stitched. Norrow only. fobrics ized elostic used for felling on GR 048 First Seam the bottom piece pro Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and illustrated, so that the as foot, felling into pieces both Feed inch.
II 847 551 Hemming Machine Setting: A—O or 2 to 3 The hemmer foot is indispensabte if you wont to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using. Clip off the corn er of the fabric to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot curl. Feed fabric so that the raw edge is in line with the left edge of the hem mer foot. If you feed less, the fabric will not be folded twice and the raw edge will show. GR 004 .
838 954 Overcasting Edges Machine Setting: A—2 to 4 B—. 4 Overcasting prevents froyed edqes. Use a long wide zigzag stitch and sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge (normal tension setting). You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined. r GR 037 838 954 Butt Seaming Machine Setting: A 3 or 4 B Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted to gether and joined with zigzag stitches.
GR 055 R 7157 FR 838 954 U Inserting Patches Machine Setting; A—4 Large holes con be patched quickly. The follqwing method may par ticularly be used for jersey fabrics. Cut patch square or rectangular so that the grain will match the rest of the fabric. Place the patch over the damaged area. Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of medium length. I For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close to seams. I 838 954 Attaching Lace “ Machine Setting: A—2 u .
GR 033 u 838 954 Applique is very effective on busier suits, pinafores, bibs, frocks, covers, wall hangings, or wherever a gay nate is desired. Machine Setting Applique Work A__11J to 2 . 8—4. Applique is easy and modern. Trace design on wrong side of fabric and baste a piece of contrasting material to right side. Outline design on wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch—and the motive will Fill out small, but essential sections of design with granite stitches. V appear on right side.
838 954 Straight-Stitch Hemstitching Machine Setting: A—C Stitch Length: 2—4 .4 Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on page 13, Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary needles. The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same as for cording work (see page 4!). Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses, dresses, handkerchiefs, doilies and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaff’s System 130 twin needle.
847 608 GR 036 Button Sewing Don’t be afraid to sew on buttons, hooks, eyes or rings with your PFAFF. The needle wont break and the threads will not get loose either. The latter may happen only with ready-made clothing sewn with a chain stitch. It won’t be worthwile to take the machine out for sewing on a single button, but you will appreciate this feature when sewing lines of buttons on pillow and bed covers , on shirts or dresses, or when fastening hooks, eyelets and rings on curtain s etc.
GR 034 Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 616 and set sLide on buttonhole gouge. to buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole is the right length when beginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow). When you follow the procedure on the opposite page, the bartacks at each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide as a buttorhole seam. Sewing Buttonholes 11/2 (2) (first notch) Machine Setting: A B Stitch Length (far buttonhole seam): Almost 0 Use only embroidery and darning thread No.
InstructionsforButtonholing Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole gauge, it is the right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw. 2 3 a) D C Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to the left, pull filler cord taut and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching. 5) (/) Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch (or stops at 4).
V I GR £11 Darning GR 056 Machine setting A— 0 B—+ Prepare your machine for darning as instructed on pages 20 and 21. Note that far be set at position I. Place fabric into darning hoop, the damag ed area being in Thin Spots TriongularTears Remember thot “a stitch in time saves Triangular tears ore best darned by nine” and reinforce spots that have placing the torn section between worn thin with short stitches made hoops and making close stitches lengthwise and across worn section. across and lengthwise.
GR 032 Monogram Embroidery Machine Setting: A —3 to 4 B —. 4 Prepare machine as far darning. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered to position I. Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric.
Cording Machine Setting: A—fl B—i To cord on your Pfaff 90, use a cording foot and o twin needle. and 4,0 (5/32”) Twin needles ore available for needle distances of 1.2 (3/64”), 1.6 (1/16”), 1.8, 2.0 (5/64”), 2.5 (332”), 3.0, millimeters. - Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows: needle. Pin tucks are made with cording foot No. 847680 (7 grooves, 3/64” wide each) and a 1.2-mm twin twin needle. 1.6-mm and a ill.) see each; wide 1/16” grooves, (5 847675 No.
Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing securely. foot. Slip on cording foot ond tight en screw b It is best to turn out screw I, complete ly if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached. Thread Size Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embroidery threa and on the bobbin. d, wider cording with sewing silk in the needle Set the machine for a medium stitc h length (about 4). Upper Threading Place a spool of thread on each of as illustrated on page 15.
GR 058 Spacing between Tucks To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks, place the preceding seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide. For a larger spacing between tucks, use the adjustable guide (see ill on page 41) which is part of every cording foot. Various Cording Effects Attractive cording effects may be obtained by combining horizontal, vertical and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill, below).
GR 059 _838 954 Ornamental Sewing You con make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stitch width or needle position by hand. This will be easy after you have hod sufficient pratice. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated below. For ornamental sewing, use zigzag sewing foot No. 838954. V Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1.6-mm twin needle (see page 40) and different color thread.
Contents Page Foreword Essential Parts Fundamentals of Machine Operation Care and Maintenance 2 3 Operation of Your Sewing Machine Bedplate Extension Power and Foot Drive Straight Stitching Zigzag Sewing Removing the Bobbin Case Winding the Bobbin Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case Inserting the Bobbin Case Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes Important Facts about Needles Changing the Needle Upper Threading Correct Tension Regulation Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Regulating the Thread Tension Stitc
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