Installation Guide
A FINAL OBEDIENCE
COMMAND: DOWN
The next command in
your obedience program
will be “Down,” which tells
your dog to lie down and
remain in this position
until it receives another
command. This command
is most often used around
the home. For this reason,
the easiest time to work
on “Down” is at night
while watching television.
Command your dog
to “Sit” and stroke its
shoulder when it obeys.
Face the dog, grab its
front paws and pull them
toward you. When your dog’s chest hits the floor, command “Down” and stroke
a shoulder again. Most dogs will immediately rise, assuming a sit position. If
this occurs, correct your dog with “No” and repeat the “Down” process again. It
generally takes around three evenings before your dog will become comfortable
with this routine. But, don’t be worried if it takes your dog three weeks.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
Now your dog has quite a vocabulary. You can stop its actions with the command
“No.” It will quickly come to you with “Here.” Walking is simple because your dog
knows “Heel.” And it will sit and remain seated when you use “Sit.” Entering a
kennel or lying down are no longer problems either. It’s time to combine several
of these commands into a drill that will rapidly speed up the conditioning process.
The “Here”-“Heel”-“Sit” drill will condition these commands and communicate to
your dog that you or anyone else who picks up the leash will be alpha. Start the
drill by commanding your dog to “Sit,” and repeat “Sit” as you walk away. When
you reach the end of the leash, call your dog to you with “Here.” As your dog nears
you, command “Heel” until it assumes the correct position. While your dog is
heeling properly, finish the routine with the command “Sit.” This simple drill will
set the stage for all of your future training while establishing you as leader of the
pack.
Proper handling of the leash is the key to success with this drill. When calling
your dog with “Here,” your left hand will slide down the leash until you are a few
inches from the snap that fastens to its collar. Grasp the leash with a firm grip
as your dog nears you and pull your left arm behind you in a sweeping motion,
commanding “Heel.” As it comes into the correct heel position, pull straight up on
the lead with “Sit.” Be sure to release the leash pressure when your dog’s butt hits
the floor. If your dog heels on the right, use your right arm. This drill is awkward
at first but will become easy with a little practice.
WATCH FOR DISPLACEMENT BEHAVIOR
Earlier, I mentioned displacement behavior – the things your dog will do to avoid giving up its
alpha position. Yawning, scratching, sniffing, head shaking, and licking are all ways in which
your dog will attempt to delay performing a command. Your dog may only try one or two of
these tricks, but most dogs will display at least three of these responses while training.
Be prepared to correct your dog by way of the correction process if it should exhibit any
displacement behavior. Avoid losing your temper by staying focused and having a plan when
your dog tries one of these tricks. It will quickly recognize that you understand what it is
saying and that you are prepared to meet the challenge.
Displacement behavior can be very subtle and is often overlooked by trainers. If allowed to
continue, displacement behavior will soon lead to defiance, and that may not be quite so easy
to correct.
TRAINING YOUR DOG
Bolting, or running away, needs to be addressed quickly. Keep a leash on your dog if it shows
any signs of bolting so you can control its actions and prevent the flight mechanism from
being rewarded. If your dog develops a bolting mentality, it's feeling far too much pressure
and you need to re-evaluate your training program or your dog. It would be extremely
surprising if the problem is with your dog. Bolting usually arises from a trainer attempting
to go too far, too fast, too soon. Slow down the training process when a bolt occurs and look
at what may have caused your dog to run off. If you can identify the cause, eliminate it from
your training program.
Biting is the next form of defiance and is the most worrisome. While there are a few dogs that
are truly mean and look to bite people, this is extremely rare. A dog will not bite unless it
feels like there’s nowhere to turn except by making you go away.
If your dog tries to bite you, get some help in the form of another opinion about your dog and
your training program from a professional.
Quitting or lying down is the other major out-mechanism. The dog will quit trying to perform
in an effort to get out of its job for three reasons.
First, it has little drive or desire to please. This is usually the result of poor breeding or an
absence of socialization during the first six months of its life.
Second, a dog may appear to quit in an effort to con you out of performing. It may lie on its
side and throw the rear leg up in the air, assuming a submissive posture. Pay close attention
to your dog’s eyes if it pulls this stunt. If it’s looking directly at you, your dog is playing the
role of the con artist.
The final reason a dog would quit is due to too much pressure from the trainer. This dog has
given up and is saying that it would rather lie down and take a beating than work in an effort
to please its trainer. If your dog chooses to lie down during the training process, you need to
pay close attention to yourself and how your dog is being trained.
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