Installation & Assembly

 South facing garage with windows
 Owner keeps the garage door open a lot and for long periods during the day.
 Garages where heavy material or weight will sit on the tile for an extended period, for example cars
that do not move.
 Anywhere you want a water proof installation.
 Warehouses where fork lifts or heavy loads on small wheels will be used.
 Anywhere you want to control expansion and contraction.
Before You Start
 Check the batch codes, the small sticker on the front edge of the box. Are they all the same? If not,
do not install. It is impossible to make exactly the same thing twice. We can normally get so close
that the eye can’t detect a difference, but not always.
 Remeasure, make sure you have purchased enough for the same reason stated above. If you have
to order more it may not be exactly the same.
 Existing baseboards and/or moldings have to be removed prior to wall to wall installation.
Acclimate
At the location of the job site take the tile out of the carton and spread them around the floor so that they
will be the same temperature as the floor. Wait 48 hours before installation.
Installation
1. Find the center point of the room, lay one row of tile, working from the front to the back of the room.
Use a plastic or rubber mallet. Gently tap the tabs in place.
2. Next, lay a row of tile in the opposite direction creating a +. You should have a cross with four open
areas. Look at the edges to be sure there is equal distance from both sides of the wall to the last
full tile. It will not be exact, as there are no straight walls. Now fill in the four squares starting in the
center working to the wall.
3. Note: If you are using a Full Spread method, the only difference is when you fill in the four open
areas you will spread the adhesive as you go. Follow the adhesive manufactures recommendations
for trowels, thickness and time.
Cutting the edge tile
Measure from the edge (inside the tab with exposed tabs) of the last full tile installed to the wall, then back
off a ¼ inch for expansion. In the below example 5”. Now measure from the outside edge (from the inside
edge of the tab with exposed tabs) in 4 3/4” (see illustration below). Using a straight edge, draw a line
from the top of the tile to the bottom. Using a sharp blade utility knife score the tile a couple of times, fold
the tile at the cut line then draw your knife down from top to bottom. Watch those fingers and keep your
blade sharp to make your job easier. After you are finished reinstall your moldings. Do not push down to
hard or you will defeat the purpose of the ¼ gap you just left.
Choose a Trim
You may need a profile (reducer edge) for our tile to carpet or to ceramic tile or to floor tile. Leather, Slate
and LVT have rounded edges and do not normally need a trim piece. If you need a reducer strip you can
use our rolled edging that we will cut to size. For hidden lock tiles or interlocking edges for standard
interlocking tile. Most flooring retailers sell profiles, use the ones made for ceramic tile. Our tile is around
1/4” thick as is most ceramic tile. Our reducer strips look like this……