User manual

With the NOCH E-Kit “Interior Lighting for Building” lighting sequences of daily life can be imitated in one or several buildings. The included light cases are equipped with one or more
LEDs and will be glued behind the window, to be illuminated. Thus, single windows of a building can be lightened, others stay simultaneously dark. With the blue LED you can e.g.
imitate the bright rays of a TV. Meanwhile, the light in the kitchen and sometimes also in the bathroom turns on and off.
First, the single elements of the switch:
• Universal electronics / microprocessor board
• Microprocessor with software “Interior Lighting for Buildings”
• 2 LEDs blue (super bright)
• 8 LEDs white (super bright)
• 2 LEDs red
• 2 resistors 330 ohm
1. First, the LEDs are provided with the connector cables.
Soldering the cable: It’s very easy, if you strip the cable first and wrap it once around the construction. Not till then you start soldering.
ATTENTION:
The construction (LED) has a polarity; you have to see how and where the contact has to be soldered. The poles have connecting wires in different lengths and a small flattening on the
plastic case allowing to distinguish them.
The black cable will be soldered on the side with the small flattening at the plastic case (at the ring) and the short connection (minus pole / cathode) (picture 2). The long connec-
tion is the plus pole of the LED. This connection is called anode. Here, the red cable is soldered (picture 3).
ATTENTION: Please consider that sensitive electronic components are soldered. These electronic components withstand a certain heat by soldering, but not unlimited. The optimal
time for the use of the soldering iron is approximately 1 to 2 seconds. Of course, a short circuit of both connections is absolutely to avoid.
2. For the first use of the switch, 3 more white LEDs and a blue LED are required. To distinguish the white and the blue LED examine exactly the plastic case. Either the housing is colo-
red lightly blue or if the housing is clear and you can’t see a difference immediately, then you look from the front through the lense of the LED to the construction. If the construction is
lightly yellow, it’s a question of the white LED. Is the construction clear, it’s a blue LED.
3. Now, you have to cut four red cable pieces with a length of 9 mm and four black cable pieces with also 9 mm from the included cable. These cables you have to solder on the il-
luminating diode (picture 4 and 5).
4. Next, a jumper is soldered between the contacts SW and -M-. For the electrical power supply each one black and red cable are soldered to the contacts on the left side of the board
with the imprint BLACK / RED (picture 6).
• Important: the jumper between SW and -M- has to be soldered exactly like in picture 6.
• The contacts to the electrical power supply are signed with the imprint BLACK / RED.
• In each case a short cable is connected for the power supply.
• All four black cables of the prepared LEDs will be isolated and twined.
• Then, the four cables will be soldered to the contact -Man-. Exactly there, where also the jumper is soldered on (picture 7).
• Please make sure that the contact LO isn’t soldered.
“Television” to L0
5. Now, the “TV” will be connected. The blue LED simulates the flutter of a TV and will be connected to the microprocessor board first. Contact L0 (pictures 8 and 9).
6. Two white LEDs will be connected to the microprocessor controler and that to the contact L1 and to the contact L2 (picture 10 and 11).
Now connected:
One blue LED to L0
One white LED to L1
One white LED to L2
7. Now the resistances come into play. The resistances have the color coding orange / orange / black / black / brown and thus a value of 330 ohm (picture 12). One of these resis-
tances has to be soldered on contact R+ top right as shown. If you want, you can short the connections of the resistance a little bit (picture 12a).
8. From a total of three white illuminating diodes there’s only one to connect. This illuminating diode will be soldered on the other end of the resistance (picture 12a).
So, the first application of the switch is ready-wired.
9. Installing the microprocessor
The microprocessor has to be installed properly and in the right direction into the switch board. It’s easier, if you slightly bend the “legs” of the microprocessor together, but not too
much. Of course, the black foam has to be removed before installing the processor.
On the one side the microprocessor has a notch and a point. Picture 14 shows that very clearly. Thus install the microprocessor with the notch to the left. Now, all of the 8 legs of the
microprocessor are positioned properly.
Indication: If the microprocessor is set in the wrong way, the microprocessor will be destroyed!! For that reason, install the microprocessor exactly as you can see in picture 14.
Also respect the point and the notch.
10. Supervising the work carried out so far
Even if the impatience is very large to feed the circuit now with electricity, you should always check the connections again. Check list for the completely assembled switch:
1. LEDs are soldered in the right way: Short connection is MINUS and with black cable and long connection is plus with red cable (picture 4 & 5)?
2. Jumper between SW and -M- (picture 6)?
3. All black cathodes (minus) of the LEDs at -M- (picture 7 & 14)?
4. Red cable of the blue LED (“TV”) to L0 (picture 8)?
5. Two red cables of the white LEDs to L1 and L2 (picture 10 & 11)?
6. The connection L2x shall stay free. Is there NO cable?
7. Resistance to R+ (picture 12a)?
8. Forth LED to resistance (also picture 12a)?
9. Microprocessor set in the right way (picture 14)?
If all things are soldered in the right way, the switch has to look like in the following picture 15.
ATTENTION: Please note the following warning carefully:
The white and blue LEDs emit highly concentrated light which can be hazardous to the human eye. Do not look directly into the LED light !!!!!
E-Kit “Interior Lighting for Buildings”
How to install the “Interior Lighting for Buildings”?