Installation Guide

STATIONARY DOCK
Normally, it is not necessary to anchor a ed dock e cept in areas where high waves may hit the
dock. Posts driven into the ground will ensure its stability.
You should, however, moor your boat in such a way that it cannot rub or bump on the docks, thus
protecting the structure and the boat.
> Since your dock is in shallow water, it will be easy for you to install blocks to allow for detached
mooring from the dock ( A ).
> For more demanding conditions, you can add diagonal braces ( B ).
> Some will prefer the installation of a boat lift.
FLOATING DOCK
A oating dock system is required to have anchor blocks at the end of the dock, or appro mately
every 30 feet. When the dock is subjected to lateral pressures created by water, wind or boats, the
blocks hold the dock in place. You should evaluate their positioning to avoid interfering with
docking or swimming. Chain hooks must be installed at each anchorage point.
> To launch them into the water, concrete blocks will be deposited and bundled on the oating
dock section. To protect the dock surface, place a cardboard or piece of wood on the dock before
placing the blocks.
> The chain will then be attached to the blocks ( C ). Calculate the width of the dock plus the depth
for each chain to create the necessary "X", but do not cut it right away.
> Once your oating dock section is over the rst location you have determined, you will tilt the
group of blocks into the water ( D ). Beware of chain movements that will quickly follow the blocks
as they fall!
> Then hook this chain to the attachment in the opposite corner without tension.
> Cut the chain, keeping an e tra 2 ft. to allow for adjustments.
> Repeat the steps on the opposite side and this time tighten the chain as much as possible.
ANCHORING MATERIAL
Your local concrete products dealer will probably have heavy enough weights to serve as anchors
or they can make them for you from unused concrete. Be sure to comply with municipal by-laws
regarding the use of concrete at the bottom of the water. You may have to choose a di nt
material. Your hardware dealer will provide you with the necessary chain.
> Di nt types of soil, such as clay, can the stability of your anchors, so be careful. Muddy
soil will provide a good grip for anchoring.
> The chain used to connect the blocks to the dock should be made of galvanized steel, size 5/16"
and grade 30 (regular). Choose galvanized shackles for underwater fastening. Avoid zinc-plated
quick links for this use.
> Blocks should weigh about 125 lbs. each and be rather square (+/- 1' 1' 1') to avoid movement
on the bottom of the water a bucket with cement is not a good idea since it will roll on the
bottom of the water). If you make your own blocks, make an attachment point by placing a piece
of chain with a bolt or a knot at its end for a better grip in the concrete.
> Note that the concrete will lose about one third of its weight once underwater. This is why we
recommend as much (below).
These drawings, plans and/or technical are only general information and can in no way replace, in whole or in
These examples are intended to as as in planning some areas may more anchors
or a method; we cannot list them all We cannot held for any incidents or damage that may as a
WARNING
ANCHORING SUGGESTIONS
A
B
D
C
MINIMUM ANCHORAGE EXAMPLES IN CALM WATER AREAS
It’s advisable to anchor the dock at the 4 corners of the section where the boats will be moored ( E ).
If you plan to accommodate other boats during the season, estimate your needs accordingly.
> Small boats under 15' such as canoes, kayaks, rowboats or personal watercraft,
(ma mum of 2 boats) at least 250 lbs. per chain, on each side;
> Pleasure craft less than 19' or appro mately 2500 lbs,
(ma mum of 1 boat) at least 375 lbs. per chain, on each side;
> Pleasure boat less than +/- 23' or +/- 4000 lbs. for water skiing or wakeboarding,
(ma mum of 1 boat) at least 500 lbs. per chain, on each side;
> Pontoon with a canvas roof, (which can catch in the wind),
at least 650 lbs. per chain, on each side.
!
E
2'-5'
7