Service Manual 31AE5MLG729 Two-Stage Snow Thrower NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outdoor power equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals. These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional.
TABLE OF CONTENTS General Information ....................................................................................................1 Tire Pressure .............................................................................................................2 Chute Installation ........................................................................................................2 Skid Shoe and Shave Plate Adjustment ....................................................................
31AE5MLG729 Snow Thrower GENERAL INFORMATION 31AE5MLG729 The Owner’s Manual packet includes and engine manual, extra shear pins and cotter pins as well as a packet containing a sample of Sta-Bill fuel stabilizer that will treat up to 2 ½ gallons of regular gas. CAUTION: When assembling the handle for the first time, use caution when lifting the handle. The shift lever rod can get caught on the lower handle cross member and if forced into position can bend the spring shift lever.
There is a storage area in the handle panel used for holding the spare auger shear pins. See Figure 2. 2.3. Pull the hairpin clip out of the clevis pin on the chute support rod. Save the hardware. 2.4. Insert the round end of the chute control box on the short tube of the chute assembly. See Figure 4. Shear Pins Storage Area Figure 2 1. Chute Control TIRE PRESSURE Figure 4 Before operating, check tire pressure. Both tires should be between 15 psi and 20 psi.
shave plate. 4.1. Use a middle or lower position when the area to be cleared is uneven, such as a gravel driveway. Remove the carriage bolts and hex nuts, which attach it to the snow thrower housing. See Figure 7. CAUTION: Loose gravel can be picked up and thrown by the auger, causing injury to the operator and bystanders and/or damage to the snow thrower and surrounding property. Carriage Bolts For initial adjustment we recommend placing the shave plate on a piece of cardboard. 3.1.
5.4. 6.4. Loosen the hex jam nut on the auger control cable "Z" fitting and rotate the coupling end of the cable downward to provide more slack or upward to take up slack. See Figure 8. To readjust the control cable, loosen the hex jam nut on the auger control cable "Z" fitting. Rotate the coupling end of the cable counterclockwise to provide more slack. Retighten the hex jam nut. See Figure 9. Hex Jam Nut Hex Jam Nut Figure 8 Figure 9 5.5.
When replacing pins, spray an oil lubricant into shaft before inserting new pins. 7. 8. AUGER BELT REPLACEMENT 8.1. Using a 3/8” socket and extension, remove the two self-tapping screws securing the plastic belt cover to the frame. See Figure 13. SHIFT ROD ADJUSTMENT If the full range of speeds (forward and reverse) cannot be achieved, adjust the shift rod. 7.1. Place the shift lever in the fastest forward speed position and remove the hairpin clip which secures the ferrule to the shift lever.
8.6. To remove and replace your snow thrower's drive belt, proceed as follows: Using a 3/8” socket, remove the four self-tapping screws which secure the frame cover to the frame. See Figure 15. 9.1. Follow steps 8.1 through 8.6 in the AUGER BELT REMOVAL Section. Then continue with the following steps. 9.2. Use a length of starter cord to pull the drive belt idler pulley toward the right, away from the belt. See Figure 17. Starter Cord Self Tapping Screws Figure 15 8.7.
10. FRICTION WHEEL REMOVAL 10.7. Using a ½” socket remove the screws and bell washers securing the wheels to the axles. Remove both wheels. See Figure 20. If the snow thrower fails to drive with the drive control engaged, and performing the drive control cable adjustment fails to correct the problem, the friction wheel may need to be replaced. 10.1. Examine the friction wheel for signs of wear or cracking and replace if necessary. 10.2. Place the shift lever in second reverse (R2) position. 10.3.
If you're disassembling the friction wheel and replacing only the rubber ring, proceed as follows: 10.9. Holding the friction wheel assembly, slide the hex gear shaft to the right. See Figure 22. 10.13. Remove the four screws that secure the friction wheel's side plates together. See Figure 24. Drift Punch Friction Wheel Assembly Figure 22 NOTE: It may be necessary to use a drift punch on the left side of the shaft to drive it from the bearing. Figure 24 10.10. Lift the chain off the small sprocket.
11.2. Using a 3/8” socket, remove the shaft retainer cover. See Figure 25. 11.6. Remove the planetary ring gear. See Figure 27. Shaft Retainer Cover Planetary Ring Gear Figure 27 Figure 25 11.7. You can now remove and service the inner planetary gears. 11.3. Remove the ball bearing and flat washer. 11.4. Using snap ring pliers, remove the retaining ring. See Figure 26. NOTE: The procedure can be performed for either planetary gear cluster. 12.
13.2. Remove both wheels. 12.3. Remove the right planetary gear cluster from the drive shaft. See Figure 29. 13.3. Remove the frame cover. 13.4. Remove the spacers on each end of the axle. See Figure 31. Planetary Gear Cluster Washer Axle Spacer Figure 29 12.4. Slide the drive shaft to the right while holding the left planetary gear cluster in place. See Figure 30. Figure 31 13.5. Remove both cotter pins from the clevis pins securing the sprockets to the wheel axle. See Figure 32.
13.7. Slide the right axle to the right and remove the gear, shim washer and hex flange bearing from the axle as you remove it. See Figure 33. NOTE: Assembly Tip. Independently assemble both the right and left side axle components through their respective frame sides, leaving the axles flush with each gear. Slide the axle support tube between the gears and slide the axles together. Line up the gears with the holes in the axle and replace the clevis pins and cotter pins. See Figure 35.
14.8. Using a ½” socket, remove the TT screw, handle tab and washer securing the support tube to the frame. Remove the support tube from the unit. See Figure 38. 14.5. Use needle nose pliers to remove the hairpin clip from the clevis pin securing the 4-way chute control assembly to the chute support tube. Remove the clevis pin. See Figure 36. Frame Screws 4-Way Chute Control Support Tube Hairpin Clip Figure 38 Figure 36 14.9.
14.11. Separate the two halves of the unit. See Figure 40. 15.4. Using the engine pull start handle and a small cotter pin removal tool, roll the drive belt off the engine pulley. See Figure 42. Drive Belt Figure 40 Figure 42 NOTE: As you separate the housing halves, remove the extension spring from the auger idler bracket. 15.5. Using a 9/16” socket and screwdriver, remove the Jam nut and bell washer securing the friction wheel disc to the friction wheel support bracket. See Figure 43.
16.4. Inspect the pulley and adapter for any wear or damage. NOTE: During reassembly note that there are two mounting holes in the friciton wheel support bracket. The friciton wheel disc must be installed in the left hand hole as you face the friction wheel support bracket. See Figure 44. NOTE: During reassembly use Loctite 242 on the screw. NOTE: Torque to 160-200 inch pounds. 17. Assemble in left mounting hole AUGER AND IMPELLER REMOVAL 17.1.
AUGER AND IMPELLER NOTES 17.4. Using a 1/2 “ socket, remove the four (two on each side) hex screws securing the auger assembly to the auger housing. See Figure 47. • The impeller worm shaft is machined to match a double D machining in the impeller. See Figure 49. Double “D” Machining Hex Screws Figure 47 Figure 49 17.5. Carefully tip back and remove the housing from the auger assembly. See Figure 48. • Hex flange bearings are used at the ends of the auger axle.
18. 19.2. Separate the housing halves using a putty knife. See Figure 53. REDUCER TRANSMISSION 18.1. The reducer can be serviced. It can also be purchased as an assembly. 19.3. Inspect all internal parts for wear or damage. NOTE: On the top of the gearbox is inspection and access hole for adding grease when and if required. Remove the rubber grommet from the lubrication port. See Figure 51.
20.3. Align one of the holes in the impeller with the idler arm nut on the front of the auger housing. See Figure 54. Alignment Hole Figure 54 20.4. Using a 9/16’ socket on a long extension and a 15/16” socket on a ½’ socket wrench, remove the nut and shoulder screw attaching the idler to the auger housing. See Figure 55. Idler Arm Figure 55 20.5. Inspect the idler pulley for wear or damage. NOTE: The idler pulley can be removed using a 9/16” socket and a 9/16” opened end wrench.
