Installation & Assembly

Engineered T&G – Installation Guidelines
Please contact your local dealer for questions and further information
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of the first and last rows of the installation and on the
two ends for all other rows). Place the nails as close
to the edge of the boards as possible so they will be
covered by the transition and/or wall molding. If this
cannot be done, set the nails with a nail punch and
fill holes with wood filler. Finish nails should be
placed at 8” intervals along the wall.
9. With the flooring stapler/nailer, fasten through the
tongues of the first row at 8” intervals and 2-3” from
the end of each board. If the stapler/nailer cannot be
used due to interference with the wall, pre-drill and
hand nail through the tongue of the board at a 45°
angle. Be sure the nail is positioned in the nail
pocket. Set the nail with a punch.
10. Start each new row on the right side with the
remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is
at least 6” long; otherwise cut a new starter board.
Stagger end joints (at least 6") and randomly install
different lengths to ensure natural appearance. Do
not create discernible patterns such as “H” or
“steps”. Select boards to create a uniform
appearance without clusters of short lengths or
sections of light or dark planks. Do not install any
objectionable boards that have visual defects or are
not consistent with the grade being installed.
11. The end joint must be at least 6” from the end joint in
the row before it. A minimum of one end joint is
required in every row, regardless of width (e.g.
hallways).
12. Position the next board, match the tongue and
groove at the end only, then, beginning at the
opposite end of the board, tap the board onto the
previous row with the tapping block. Move the
tapping block back toward the right side of the board
until you get near the connections with the previous
board. Before you finish tapping the board onto the
previous row, you must be sure the end joint is tight.
If the end joint is not completely tight you may not be
able to do so once the long seam is tight. With the
flooring stapler/nailer, fasten through the tongues of
the boards at 8” intervals and 2-3” from the end of
each board.
13. Continue process across the room. The last board
should be sawn to appropriate width allowing for 1/2"
expansion space against walls and all vertical
obstructions. The last board puller will be used to
install the last row.
14. Top nail the last row with finish nails against the wall
as was done with the first row.
COMPLETING THE JOB
1. Fill visible joints and gaps with a non-silicon based
filler that blends with the floor color. Helpful hint:
Test filler on spare piece of plank.
Note: The use of fillers/putty and stain is a
recommended and acceptable industry practice. Full
plank replacements are also acceptable forms of repair
and do not affect the integrity of the floor when done
correctly
2. Install molding and trim making sure not to nail into
the hardwood flooring.
3. Sweep and/or vacuum floor then clean with a
hardwood flooring cleaner.
Note: You must stay off floor for at least 12 hours when
using either floating or glue down methods.
Upon completion, cover the floor with a breathable
wrapping to protect the finish if necessary.