Installation & Assembly
Engineered T&G – Installation Guidelines
Please contact your local dealer for questions and further information
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2. Re-install the pre-cut boards from the dry fit as
follows. Connect the end of the second board to the
end of the first board, making sure the boards are
tightly connected and firmly positioned. Use the
hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to tap the
tongue end of the second board to ensure a tight fit.
Never use the hammer or rubber mallet directly
on the flooring as this will cause damage to the
board.
3. Continue placing additional boards moving left to
right using the same procedure until the first row is
complete.
4. Place shims between the end of the last board and
the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row in tight
rendering it immobile. For best results, allow the
adhesive to dry before continuing with the rest of the
installation.
5. Start each new row on the right side with the
remaining portion of the previous row as long as it is
at least 6” long; otherwise cut a new starter board.
Stagger end joints (at least 6") and randomly install
different lengths to ensure natural appearance. Do
not create discernible patterns such as “H” or
“steps”. Select boards to create a uniform
appearance without clusters of short lengths or
sections of light or dark planks. Do not install any
objectionable boards that have visual defects or are
not consistent with the grade being installed.
6. The end joint must be at least 6” from the end joint in
the row before it. A minimum of one end joint is
required in every row, regardless of width (e.g.
hallways).
7. Trowel adhesive onto the subfloor as recommended
by the adhesive manufacturer, place the next board
in position, match the tongue and groove at the end
only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the
board, and tap the board onto the previous row with
the tapping block. Move the tapping block back
toward the right side of the board until you get near
the connections with the previous board. Before you
finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you
must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is
not completely tight you will not be able to do so
once the long seam is tight.
8. Continue process across the room. The last board
should be sawn to appropriate width allowing for 1/2"
expansion space against walls and all vertical
obstructions. The last board puller will be used to
install the last row.
Staple/Nail-Down Installation
1. Determine starting wall and direction to lay boards.
An outside wall is normally best as it is most likely
straight and square with the room. Wood should be
installed perpendicular to the joists. In cases of
existing wooden floor, boards should be laid
crosswise or at a 45 degree angle.
2. Lay 30-30 Kraft or 15 lb. asphalt saturated felt
(roofing felt) in same direction as boards making
sure to tape the seams and overlap edges by 4".
The vapor barrier must be continuous without cuts or
punctures. Tape any tears, cuts or seams.
3. Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the
base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved
side is against the expansion shims to your right and
the long grooved length of the board is against the
expansion shims in front of you.
4. Maintain expansion gap of 1/2" between first board
and the wall by using spacers regularly along the
length of the wall. Determine straightness of wall by
snapping a chalk line. If starting wall is not straight,
make notation on first row and saw to shape.
5. Connect the end of the second board to the end of
the first board, making sure the boards are tightly
connected and firmly positioned against the shims.
Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to
tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a
tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet
directly on the flooring as this will cause damage
to the board.
6. Continue placing additional boards moving right to
left using the same procedure until the first row is
complete.
7. You will need to cut off the end of the final board,
save the remaining piece for the next row as long as
it is at least 6” long. Use the last board Puller to
ensure the last board is tight against the preceding
board. Place shims between the end of the last
board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row
in tight rendering it immobile.
8. After pre-drilling holes, carefully top nail the first row
of boards to the subfloor using 6d finish nails where
the boards meet the wall (This will be on three sides