Installation & Assembly

Engineered T&G – Installation Guidelines
Please contact your local dealer for questions and further information
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objectionable boards that have visual defects or are
not consistent with the grade being installed.
9. The end joint must be at least 6” from the end joint in
the row before it. A minimum of one end joint is
required in every row, regardless of width (e.g.
hallways).
10. Holding the board finished side down, apply 1/8”
bead of tongue and groove adhesive to bottom of
the short end and long side grooves and position the
next board, match the tongue and groove at the end
only, then, beginning at the opposite end of the
board, tap the board onto the previous row with the
tapping block. Move the tapping block back toward
the right side of the board until you get near the
connections with the previous board. Before you
finish tapping the board onto the previous row, you
must be sure the end joint is tight. If the end joint is
not completely tight you may not be able to do so
once the long seam is tight.
11. Continue process across the room. The last board
should be sawn to appropriate width allowing for 1/2"
expansion space against walls and all vertical
obstructions.
12. Do not install floating floors in excess of 30 feet
without the use of transitions
13. Use transitions at doorways and other adjacent
floors.
14. Do not affix the floor to the subfloor at any point.
Glue-Down Installation
1. Determine starting wall and direction to lay boards.
An outside wall is normally best as it is most likely
straight and square with the room. Wood should be
installed perpendicular to the joists. In cases of
existing wooden floor, boards should be laid
crosswise or at a 45 degree angle.
2. Begin installing the first row in the right corner of the
base wall. Install the first board so the short grooved
side is against the expansion shims to your right and
the long grooved length of the board is against the
expansion shims in front of you.
3. Maintain expansion gap of 1/2" between first board
and the wall by using spacers regularly along the
length of the wall. Determine straightness of wall by
snapping a chalk line. If starting wall is not straight,
make notation on first row and saw to shape.
4. Connect the end of the second board to the end of
the first board, making sure the boards are tightly
connected and firmly positioned against the shims.
Use the hammer/rubber mallet and tapping block to
tap the tongue end of the second board to ensure a
tight fit. Never use the hammer or rubber mallet
directly on the flooring as this will cause damage
to the board.
5. Continue placing additional boards moving right to
left using the same procedure until the first row is
complete.
6. You will need to cut off the end of the final board,
save the remaining piece for the next row as long as
it is at least 6” long. Use the last board Puller to
ensure the last board is tight against the preceding
board. Place shims between the end of the last
board and the wall. Use the shims to wedge the row
in tight rendering it immobile.
7. Once the first row has been cut and fit, remove the
flooring and set it aside. Snap a chalk line the face
width of the wood flooring plus 1/2” for expansion
space out from the starting wall. Starting from the
edge of the chalk line, apply an even layer of
adhesive as instructed by the adhesive
manufacturer. Only spread adhesive the width and
length of the one row that was dry fit.
A NOTE ON ADHESIVE:
1. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions for
use in this application. Wear rubber gloves and
proceed carefully during adhesive application. Cured
mastic is very hard and sometimes impossible to
remove from the flooring as well as the tools. DO
NOT allow any spilled or excess adhesive to remain
anywhere but between the boards and the subfloor
at any time during the installation. Clean up spills
immediately as recommended by the adhesive
manufacturer. The flooring manufacturer will not
be responsible in any way for adhesive that is
not removed from the hardwood flooring
immediately. Any damage to the flooring caused
by the adhesive allowing to cure on the surface
will be the sole responsibility of the installation
mechanic.