Installation Guide

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
• Check the hardwood for moisture content. Its moisture content must be between 6% - 9% and within 2% of
the subfloor to be ready for installation.
• Ensure that subfloors are clean, flat, and secure and meet minimum requirements as set forth.
• Undercut door casings 1/16" higher than the thickness of the floor being installed.
• Place an approved vapor retarder/underlayment over wood subfloors such as asphalt, laminated paper, or 15
lb. asphalt-saturated kraft paper. Overlap the edges by 6".
• “Racking” the floor, dry lay out several rows, staggering the end joints a minimum of 6" while avoiding “step”
or “H” patterns. To achieve a random appearance across the floor, work from several cartons at a time. Do not
install any boards that have a visual defect or are deemed objectionable.
• Maintain a 1/2" expansion space along each wall and against all fixed obstructions. A larger expansion space
of 3/4" is required on spans exceeding 30 feet in either direction.
GETTING STARTED
Establish a starting point – preferably the longest exterior wall that is perpendicular to the floor joists. Measure
out the width of a board, plus 3/4" for expansion space. Measure this distance out in at least two places from
the starting wall and snap a chalk line parallel to the starting wall.
Select the longest and straightest boards and align the plank’s tongue facing away from the wall on the chalk
line. Cut the last plank of this row to the proper length, leaving a 3/4" space from the end wall. Face nail the top
of the board 1/2" in from the groove side and every 6”– 8" apart along the entire row. Also, blind nail at a 45
degree angle into the tongue of the starter row. This may have to be nailed by hand for the first few rows until
the nailer is away from the wall. Rack out (dry lay) several rows for a random appearance while inspecting each
board for acceptability.
INSTALLING THE FLOOR
Use a minimum 1-1/2” 15 gauge staple with a 1/2” crown or 1-1/2" 16 gauge barbed cleat. Check to ensure that
the fastener is set to the proper depth in the reveal above the tongue. Take precautions not to damage the face
of the board or the tongue during installation. Continue blind nailing each succeeding row across the room.
Stagger the end joints a minimum of 6", avoiding “step” and “H” patterns. Use material from multiple cartons to
give the floor a random appearance. Space fasteners along the length of the strips, with a minimum of two
fasteners per piece and nailing 1"– 3" from the ends and every 6”– 8" along the board. Continue installing
hardwood across the room, ending at the far wall, using a manual or pneumatic nailer/stapler following the
recommended nailing schedule. As you reach the far wall, it may be necessary to blind nail by hand or top nail
through the face of the board. If required, “rip” (cut lengthwise) the last row to allow for the 3/4" expansion
space. Top nail the final row, countersink the nails and fill the holes with color-matched filler or putty.
COMPLETING THE JOB
Install appropriate transitions and trim pieces such as thresholds, t-moldings, baseboards, quarter-rounds etc.
Sweep, vacuum and clean the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner. Inspect the floor for
imperfections and fill with the appropriate colored wood putty.
FLOOR CARE & MAINTENANCE
Hardwood is a natural product and will show signs of wear over time depending upon the use. Factory finished
floors will scratch and dent under certain circumstances. Here are some tips to keep your floors looking their
best:
• Constantly maintain “normal living conditions” in the home. Maintain the relative humidity between 40%-60%
and the temperature between 15-26 degrees Celsius. The proper use of a humidifier or de-humidifier may be
required.
• Sweep and vacuum (do not use a vacuum cleaner with a beater bar) regularly to keep dirt and grit off the
floor.
• Remove spills immediately with a soft absorbent cloth.
• Only use an approved hardwood cleaner. NEVER wet or damp mop your floor with water or other products.