Installation Guide

MOHAWK TECHNICAL SERVICES – HARD SURFACE | [e-mail] | 888.387.9881 1603_2020 | ES | 09/2020 | 8 of 12
Wet Lay Method (cont'd)
Step 3: Install the rst row of starter planks with the tongue facing the starter wall and secure into position. Alignment is critical and can be achieved by securing
a straight edge along the chalk line (a 2 by 4 works well) or by top nailing the rst row with nishing nails (wood suboor) or adjustable spacers
(concrete suboor). This prevents slippage of the planks that can cause misalignment.
NOTE: The planks along the wall may have to be scribed and cut to t in order to maintain a consistent expansion space since most walls are not straight. Try to
maintain at least 2" on the scribed plank.
Step 4: Once the starter rows are secure, spread 2-1/2 to 3 feet of adhesive the length of the room. Never lay more adhesive than can be covered in
approximately 1 hour. Place tongue into groove of plank or strips and press rmly into adhesive. Never slide planks or strips through adhesive. Use Uniclic
tapping block if necessary to t planks snug together at side and butt ends. Clean any adhesive off the surface before it cures using clean terry cloth towels
and mineral spirits.
2 ½ - 3'
NOTE:Never work on top of the ooring when installing. If you must work on top of the newly laid ooring, use a kneeling board.
Secure your starter rows with a straight edge. Once the remainder of the oor has been installed, go back to the beginning and remove the straight edges and
spread adhesive on the remainder of the open suboor. Remember, planks closest to the wall may have to be scribed and cut to t due to irregularities along
the wall. When using Mohawk’s M92X adhesive, it is not necessary to roll the oor.
Clean Up
Use clean white terry cloth towels to clean as you go along with mineral spirits. It is easy and convenient to use. Adhesive that has cured on the surface of the
ooring can be difcult to remove.
Light foot trafc is allowed after 12 hours, but wait 24 hours after installation to remove the low adhesion delicate surface painters tape. Once the tape is
removed, clean any adhesive residue left from the tape using mineral spirits on a clean white terry towel.
Final Touches
Trim excess underlayment (oating installation only) and install or re-install any transition pieces, reducer strips, T-moldings, thresholds, bases and/or quarter round
moldings. Trims and moldings should be nailed into the wall or suboor, not the oor. Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition
and along the walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall due to irregularity.
Complete the job by using the wood ller that coordinates with the installed engineered ooring for minor corrections or areas where brad nails were used in
the trim or the ooring. Clean the nished oor witha hardwood oor cleaner.
To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the oor. Use plywood or appliance lifts if necessary. Use protective castors/castor
cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the ooring.
IMPORTANT: If the oor is to be covered, the oor should be thoroughly cleaned prior to covering to prevent grit damage to the nish. Do not cover with plastic,
red rosin, felt or wax paper or previously used cardboard. Inks from printed cardboard could damage the hardwood oor. Instead use a breathable material such
as clean, dry, plain uncoated cardboard or Kraft paper.
A common reinforced builder’s paper is a good choice. Any covering should be taped using a low-adhesion tape to base or shoe moldings. Avoid taping to
nished ooring. When taping paper or sheets together, tape them to each other, not to the oor. The oor must be completely covered to eliminate uneven
ambering from exposure to UV light.