Installation Guide

Page 5
Generic Multi-Layered T&G Installation Instructions 020818
such as clean, dry, plain uncoated cardboard or Kraft paper. Inks from printed
cardboard could damage the hardwood floor.
A common reinforced builder’s paper is a good choice. Any covering should be taped,
using a low-adhesion tape, to base or shoe moldings. Avoid taping to finished flooring.
When taping paper or sheets together, tape them to each other, not to the floor. The
floor must be completely covered to eliminate uneven ambering from exposure to UV
light.
Staple Down Instructions- Tongue & Groove
Note: Engineered wood flooring products that are 5/16” thick are not approved
for staple or nail down installation. The recommended method of installation is
glue down only.
Multi-ply Tongue and Groove Engineered hardwood floors may be installed over wood
sub-floors (with the exception of Luan, Parquet or Masonite) using staples or cleats.
When installing engineered wood planks it is necessary to use the proper type of flooring
stapler made for, or properly adjusted to, the thickness of the engineered wood flooring
that is being installed.
Note: In addition to the ground cover in the crawlspace, a 15lb felt or rosin paper must
be installed over the sub-floor prior to the installation of the engineered wood flooring in
order to reduce squeaks and noises created by the opposing floors.
Layout the job
Measure out from the ends of your starting wall the width of the plank plus 3/8” for
expansion and mark both ends. Where possible lay the flooring at 90° angles to the floor
joists. Make a chalk line along the starting wall using the marks you made.
Beginning installation
Note: Expansion space is required along the perimeter of room(s) of intended
installation; expansion space is dictated by the thickness of the product, for example,
3/8" thick floor requires 3/8” expansion space, ½” thick floor requires ½” expansion
space;.
Place the planks with the groove side facing the wall and along your chalk line.
Use brads or small finishing nails to secure the first starter row along the wall edge
1” to 2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along the side. Counter sink the nails and
fill with the wood filler that blends with the flooring installed. Place the nails in a
dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the nails when
installed after completion of the installation.
Blind nail at a 45 degree angle through the tongues. It will be easier IF HOLES ARE
PRE-DRILLED IN THE TONGUES. Nail 1” to 2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along
the sides. It will be necessary to blind nail the next 2 rows. A brad nailer with 1” to 1-3/8”
brads can also be used to blind nail and no pre-drilling is needed. Continue the
installation using an engineered wood-flooring stapler, using recommended staples.
Staple flooring 1” to 2” from ends and every 4” to 6” along the edge tongues. See notes
in floating section for end joint spacing and starting additional rows.
Recommended Pneumatic Floor Fastener
Use 20 gauge fastener at least 1” long, on 3/8” thick multi-layered core products.
Use 18 gauge 1 ¼” fastener on multi-layered core products ½” thick. Staple 1” to
2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along the tongue side of the engineered wood
product; this will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is recommended to initially set
the compressor at 80 to 85 PSI and adjust the pressure as needed in order to properly
set the fastener and keep the staples from going through or breaking the tongues.
Improper stapling techniques can cause squeaks in the floor. Adjustments may be
necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or staple into the nail bed. Staples
should be flush in the nail pocket and not beyond. Use a scrap piece of flooring material
to set tools properly before installation.
Final Touches
Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and along the
walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall due to irregularity. Complete the job
by using the wood filler that coordinates with the installed engineered flooring to fill any
gapping along the joints or areas where brad nails were used in the trim or the flooring.
Clean the finished floor with Performance Accessories Cleaner.
FLOATING INSTALLATION
.
Underlayment:
Use Performance Accessory Underlayments or equivalent with equal or better
specifications. Underlayment requirements are very critical to a floating installation.
Excessive pad compression or compaction is a common cause of seam failure. Lay the
underlayment on the floor with the moisture barrier facing up. The direction of the
underlayment should be parallel to the direction of the floor being installed. For the first
row of flooring the underlayment should be placed so that approximately 1 inch overlaps
onto all perpendicular walls. Place the following row next to the first row on top of the
lower moisture barrier overlap. Remove the adhesive strip and fold back the upper
overlap on the second row. Make sure the underlayment fits together tightly (don’t leave
gaps). On the last row, place the underlayment 1 inch up the wall. To join rolls on the
short side of the underlayment, use a moisture resistant tape to connect the 2 pieces so
water cannot penetrate the underlayment.
Expansion Space:
An expansion space of at least 3/8 inch must be maintained around the perimeter of the
room, all pipes, counters, cabinets, fireplace hearths, doorframes and any other fixed
vertical objects in the room. Doorway or archways 48 inches or less and rooms
larger than a 26 X 33 are required to have a T-Molding.
Glue and Glue Placement:
The recommended glue for floating installation is Performance Accessory Tongue &
Groove D3 Rated Floating Floor Glue. The glue must be placed on every plank along
the topside of the groove and bottom side of the tongue for the full length of the side and
end Apply only a 3/32-inch bead of glue; if the groove is filled with glue it will be difficult
to close the seam not allowing a tight fit.
Getting Started:
The installation begins with three rows of flooring glued together and held in place
with low adhesion delicate surface painters tape with the groove side facing the
wall. Spacers must be used to establish the minimum 3/8” expansion space from
the walls. These three rows must be straight, square and in rack because they
establish the alignment of the rest of the floor. After putting these three rows
together allow the glue to set (15 to 45 minutes) before proceeding with the
installation. With the tongue facing out, the planks can be tapped together with a
tapping block on the tongue to make a snug fit. After installing 8 or 10 rows of
flooring, stand back and check for crowning or heaving due to tension strapping or
any damage caused by improper taping.
CLEAN AS YOU GO:
If any glue squeezes out of the seam between the planks allow it to dry for 10 to 15
minutes and then lightly scrape it away with a plastic scraper or putty knife, any glue left
may be cleaned with a damp cloth. Do not allow the glue to dry on the face of the flooring;
it will be very difficult to clean off.
Starting Off - The First Three Rows - Row One:
Plank 1 should begin in the right hand corner of the room. Spacing around the wall
perimeter of 3/8” can be maintained by using wood wedges. The planks are laid with the
groove side facing the wall. The first row starts with a full length board; working from
right to left will be required when installing T&G engineered hardwood flooring. Slide the
end tongue of the board being installed into the end groove of the board you previously
installed. Place each plank firmly against the wood wedges. After setting the first row
and making sure you are against a firm starting point, lay out three to four rows before
starting to install.
Lay the rest, plank after plank, in this manner until you have completed the first row. Cut
the last plank accordingly. Ensure that this first row is straight using the wedges to
maintain proper 3/8” expansion space from the wall. Planks may require scribing and
cutting to fit wall curvature if present.
Row Two:
When possible use leftover plank from the first row to begin the second row. The
leftover piece from the first row should be considered for this starter piece to
minimize waste. Initial layout of material will allow you to check your end seams
to ensure they are not too close. End joints on adjoining rows should be offset by
no less than 6”. Align this plank and lock the side into place against the first plank
in row 1. The next plank is aligned with the end joint first into the previous plank
in row 2. The side of plank is then tapped lightly against the previously laid row.
Continue laying in this way across the entire row. Remove the fitting wedge and
press in the row of planks with a light pressure on the long side. The Tapping Block
may be required to ensure a tight fit of all long-side joints. The planks are now laid
row after row in this sequence.
Row Three and Remaining Rows:
Move rows if necessary to ensure that you are not showing any undesirable joint
patterns. The rest of the row’s end joints should be random throughout the floor.
Your first three rows are staggered ensuring that offset of previous row with end
joints are no closer than 6” from one another. When the planks are being placed,
a non-random pyramid or stair step pattern is used to ensure the planks remain
engaged through the force of the tapping. Stretch and stick low adhesion delicate
surface painters tape across every 3 to 5 rows of planks approximately 2’ apart
from each other to hold the floor in place until the glue sets. Remove tape within
24 hours.
Installer’s Responsibility:
Warranty for separation of planks and damage caused by the use of incorrect tape or
length of time tape was allowed to remain on the floor is the responsibility of the installer.