Instructions / Assembly

Page 5
Performance Core T&G Installation Instructions 020818
Staple Down Instructions- Tongue & Groove
20 GAUGE Staples and Cleats recommended for 3/8” products, 18 GAUGE Staple
or Cleats recommended for products greater than 3/8” up to 9/16”
Tongue and Groove Performance Core Engineered hardwood floors may be installed over wood
sub-floors (with the exception of Parquet or Masonite) . When installing engineered wood planks it
is necessary to use the proper type of flooring stapler made for, or properly adjusted to, the thickness
of the engineered wood flooring that is being installed.
Note: In addition to the ground cover in the crawlspace, a 15lb felt or rosin paper must be installed
over the sub-floor prior to the installation of the engineered wood flooring in order to reduce squeaks
and noises created by the opposing floors.
Layout the job
Measure out from the ends of your starting wall the width of the plank plus 3/8” for expansion and
mark both ends. Where possible lay the flooring at 90° angles to the floor joists. Make a chalk line
along the starting wall using the marks you made.
Beginning installation
Note: Expansion space is required along the perimeter of room(s) of intended installation;
expansion space is dictated by the thickness of the product, for example, 3/8" thick floor requires
3/8” expansion space, ½” thick floor requires ½” expansion space, etc..
Place the planks with the groove side facing the wall and along your chalk line. Use brads or small
finishing nails to secure the first starter row along the wall edge 1” to 2” from the ends and every 4”
to 6” along the side. Counter sink the nails and fill with the wood filler that blends with the flooring
installed. Place the nails in a dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the
nails when installed after completion of the installation.
Blind nail at a 45 degree angle through the tongues. It will be easier IF HOLES ARE PRE-DRILLED
IN THE TONGUES. Nail 1” to 2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along the sides. It will be necessary
to blind nail the next 2 rows. A brad nailer with 1” to 1-3/8” brads can also be used to blind nail and
no pre-drilling is needed. Continue the installation using an engineered wood-flooring stapler, using
recommended staples. Staple flooring 1” to 2” from ends and every 4” to 6” along the edge tongues.
See notes in floating section for end joint spacing and starting additional rows.
Recommended Pneumatic Floor Fastener
Staple 1” to 2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along the tongue side of the engineered wood
product; this will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is recommended to initially set the
compressor at 80 to 85 PSI and adjust the pressure as needed in order to properly set the fastener
and prevent the fastener from going through or breaking the tongues. Improper stapling techniques
can cause squeaks in the floor. Adjustments may be necessary to provide adequate penetration of
the nail or staple into the nail pocket. Fasteners should be flush in the nail pocket and not beyond.
Use a scrap piece of flooring material to set tools properly before installation.
Final Touches
Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and along the walls to cover
the edges of any gaps along the wall due to irregularity. Complete the job by using the wood filler
that coordinates with the installed engineered flooring to fill any gapping along the joints or areas
where brad nails were used in the trim or the flooring. Clean the finished floor with Performance
Accessories Cleaner.
FLOATING INSTALLATION
PREPARATION:
Undercut Door Casings: Undercut
all door casings 1/16" higher than the
thickness of the flooring materials
being installed. To do this, use a scrap
piece of flooring as a guide. Lay it on
the substrate and cut the casing with
a handsaw or use a power jamb saw
set at the correct height. Remove all
moldings and wall-base, and undercut
all door casings.
Underlayment:
Use Performance Accessory Underlayments or equivalent with equal or better specifications.
Underlayment requirements are very critical to a floating installation. Excessive pad compression or
compaction is a common cause of seam failure. Lay the underlayment on the floor with the moisture
barrier facing up. The direction of the underlayment should be parallel to the direction of the floor
being installed. For the first row of flooring the underlayment should be placed so that approximately
1 inch overlaps onto all perpendicular walls. Place the following row next to the first row on top of the
lower moisture barrier overlap. Remove the adhesive strip and fold back the upper overlap on the
second row. Make sure the underlayment fits together tightly (don’t leave gaps). On the last row,
place the underlayment 1 inch up the wall. To join rolls on the short side of the underlayment, use a
moisture resistant tape to connect the 2 pieces so water cannot penetrate the underlayment.
Expansion Space:
An expansion space of at least 3/8 inch must be maintained around the perimeter of the room, all
pipes, counters, cabinets, fireplace hearths, doorframes and any other fixed vertical objects in the
room. Doorway or archways 48 inches or less and rooms larger than a 26 X 33 are required
to have a T-Molding.
Glue and Glue Placement:
The recommended glue for floating installation is Performance Accessory Tongue & Groove D3
Rated Floating Floor Glue. The glue must be placed on every plank along the topside of the groove
and bottom side of the tongue for the full length of the side and end Apply only a 3/32-inch bead of
glue; if the groove is filled with glue it will be difficult to close the seam not allowing a tight fit.
Getting Started:
The installation begins with three rows of flooring glued together and held in place with low adhesion
delicate surface painters tape with the groove side facing the wall. Spacers must be used to establish
the minimum 3/8” expansion space from the walls. These three rows must be straight, square and
in rack because they establish the alignment of the rest of the floor. After putting these three rows
together allow the glue to set (15 to 45 minutes) before proceeding with the installation. With the
tongue facing out, the planks can be tapped together with a tapping block on the tongue to make a
snug fit. After installing 8 or 10 rows of flooring, stand back and check for crowning or heaving due
to tension strapping or any damage caused by improper taping.
CLEAN AS YOU GO:
If any glue squeezes out of the seam between the planks allow it to dry for 10 to 15 minutes and
then lightly scrape it away with a plastic scraper or putty knife, any glue left may be cleaned with a
damp cloth. Do not allow the glue to dry on the face of the flooring; it will be very difficult to clean off.
Starting Off - The First Three Rows - Row One:
Plank 1 should begin in the right hand corner of the room. Spacing around the wall perimeter of 3/8”
can be maintained by using wood wedges. The planks are laid with the groove side facing the wall.
The first row starts with a full length board; working from right to left will be required when installing
T&G engineered hardwood flooring. Slide the end tongue of the board being installed into the end
groove of the board you previously installed. Place each plank firmly against the wood wedges. After
setting the first row and making sure you are against a firm starting point, lay out three to four rows
before starting to install.
Lay the rest, plank after plank, in this manner until you have completed the first row. Cut the last
plank accordingly. Ensure that this first row is straight using the wedges to maintain proper 3/8”
expansion space from the wall. Planks may require scribing and cutting to fit wall curvature if present.
Row Two:
When possible use leftover plank from the first row to begin the second row. The leftover piece from
the first row should be considered for this starter piece to minimize waste. Initial layout of material
will allow you to check your end seams to ensure they are not too close. End joints on adjoining rows
should be offset by no less than 6”. Align this plank and lock the side into place against the first plank
in row 1. The next plank is aligned with the end joint first into the previous plank in row 2. The side
of plank is then tapped lightly against the previously laid row. Continue laying in this way across the
entire row. Remove the fitting wedge and press in the row of planks with a light pressure on the long
side. The Uniclic Tapping Block may be required to ensure a tight fit of all long-side joints. The planks
are now laid row after row in this sequence.
Row Three and Remaining Rows:
Move rows if necessary to ensure that you are not showing any undesirable joint patterns. The rest
of the row’s end joints should be random throughout the floor. Your first three rows are staggered
ensuring that offset of previous row with end joints are no closer than 6” from one another. When the
planks are being placed, a non-random pyramid or stair step pattern is used to ensure the planks
remain engaged through the force of the tapping. Stretch and stick low adhesion delicate surface
painters tape across every 3 to 5 rows of planks approximately 2’ apart from each other to hold the
floor in place until the glue sets. Remove tape within 24 hours.
Installer’s Responsibility:
Warranty for separation of planks and damage caused by the use of incorrect tape or length of time
tape was allowed to remain on the floor is the responsibility of the installer.