Installation Instructions

Staple Down Instructions- Tongue & Groove
Note: Engineered wood flooring products that are 5/16” thick are not approved
for staple or nail down installation. The recommended method of installation is
direct glue down only.
Multi-ply Tongue and Groove Engineered hardwood floors may be installed over wood
sub-floors (with the exception of Luan, Parquet or Masonite) using staples or cleats.
When installing engineered wood planks it is necessary to use the proper type of
flooring stapler made for, or properly adjusted to, the thickness of the engineered
wood flooring that is being installed.
Note: In addition to the ground cover in the crawlspace, a 15lb felt or rosin paper must
be installed over the sub-floor prior to the installation of the engineered wood flooring
in order to reduce squeaks and noises created by the opposing floors.
Layout the job
Measure out from the ends of your starting wall the width of the plank plus 3/8” for
expansion and mark both ends. Where possible lay the flooring at 90° angles to the
floor joists. Make a chalk line along the starting wall using the marks you made.
Beginning installation
Note: Expansion space is required along the perimeter of room(s) of intended
installation; expansion space is dictated by the thickness of the product, for example,
3/8" thick floor requires 3/8” expansion space, ½” thick floor requires ½” expansion
space;.
Place the planks with the groove side facing the wall and along your chalk line.
Use brads or small finishing nails to secure the first starter row along the wall
edge 1” to 2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along the side. Counter sink the
nails and fill with the wood filler that blends with the flooring installed. Place the
nails in a dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the
nails when installed after completion of the installation.
Blind nail at a 45 degree angle through the tongues. It will be easier IF HOLES ARE
PRE-DRILLED IN THE TONGUES. Nail 1” to 2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along
the sides. It will be necessary to blind nail the next 2 rows. A brad nailer with 1” to 1-
3/8” brads can also be used to blind nail and no pre-drilling is needed. Continue the
installation using an engineered wood-flooring stapler, using recommended staples.
Staple flooring 1” to 2” from ends and every 4” to 6” along the edge tongues. See
notes in floating section for end joint spacing and starting additional rows.
Recommended Pneumatic Floor Fastener
Use 20 gauge fastener at least 1” long, on 3/8” thick multi-layered core products.
Use 18 gauge 1 ¼” fastener on multi-layered core products ½” thick. Staple 1” to
2” from the ends and every 4” to 6” along the tongue side of the engineered wood
product; this will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is recommended to initially set
the compressor at 80 to 85 PSI and adjust the pressure as needed in order to properly
set the fastener and keep the staples from going through or breaking the tongues.
Improper stapling techniques can cause squeaks in the floor. Adjustments may be
necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or staple into the nail bed.
Staples should be flush in the nail pocket and not beyond. Use a scrap piece of
flooring material to set tools properly before installation.
Final Touches
Install the proper trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and along the
walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall due to irregularity. Complete the
job by using the wood filler that coordinates with the installed engineered flooring to fill
any gapping along the joints or areas where brad nails were used in the trim or the
flooring. Clean the finished floor with Performance Accessories Cleaner.
FLOATING INSTALLATION
PREPARATION:
Undercut Door Casings:
Undercut all door casings
1/16" higher than the
thickness of the flooring
materials being installed. To
do this, use a scrap piece of
flooring as a guide. Lay it on
the substrate and cut the
casing with a handsaw or use
a power jamb saw set at the
correct height. Remove all
moldings and wall-base, and undercut all door casings.
Underlayment:
Use Performance Accessory Underlayments or equivalent with equal or better
specifications. Underlayment requirements are very critical to a floating installation.
Excessive pad compression or compaction is a common cause of seam failure. Lay
the underlayment on the floor with the moisture barrier facing up. The direction of the
underlayment should be parallel to the direction of the floor being installed. For the first
row of flooring the underlayment should be placed so that approximately 1 inch
overlaps onto all perpendicular walls. Place the following row next to the first row on
top of the lower moisture barrier overlap. Remove the adhesive strip and fold back the
upper overlap on the second row. Make sure the underlayment fits together tightly
(don’t leave gaps). On the last row, place the underlayment 1 inch up the wall. To join
rolls on the short side of the underlayment, use a moisture resistant tape to connect
the 2 pieces so water cannot penetrate the underlayment.
Expansion Space:
An expansion space of at least 3/8 inch must be maintained around the perimeter of
the room, all pipes, counters, cabinets, fireplace hearths, doorframes and any other
fixed vertical objects in the room. Doorway or archways 48 inches or less and
rooms larger than a 26 X 33 are required to have a T-Molding.
Glue and Glue Placement:
The recommended glue for floating installation is Performance Accessory Tongue &
Groove D3 Rated Floating Floor Glue. The glue must be placed on every plank along
the topside of the groove and bottom side of the tongue for the full length of the side
and end Apply only a 3/32-inch bead of glue; if the groove is filled with glue it will be
difficult to close the seam not allowing a tight fit.
Getting Started:
The installation begins with three rows of flooring glued together and held in
place with low adhesion delicate surface painters tape with the groove side
facing the wall. Spacers must be used to establish the minimum 3/8” expansion
space from the walls. These three rows must be straight, square and in rack
because they establish the alignment of the rest of the floor. After putting these
three rows together allow the glue to set (15 to 45 minutes) before proceeding
with the installation. With the tongue facing out, the planks can be tapped
together with a tapping block on the tongue to make a snug fit. After installing 8
or 10 rows of flooring, stand back and check for crowning or heaving due to
tension strapping or any damage caused by improper taping.
CLEAN AS YOU GO:
If any glue squeezes out of the seam between the planks allow it to dry for 10 to 15
minutes and then lightly scrape it away with a plastic scraper or putty knife, any glue
left may be cleaned with a damp cloth. Do not allow the glue to dry on the face of the
flooring; it will be very difficult to clean off.
Starting Off - The First Three Rows - Row One:
Plank 1 should begin in the right hand corner of the room. Spacing around the wall
perimeter of 3/8” can be maintained by using wood wedges. The planks are laid with
the groove side facing the wall. The first row starts with a full length board; working
from right to left will be required when installing T&G engineered hardwood flooring.
Slide the end tongue of the board being installed into the end groove of the board you
previously installed. Place each plank firmly against the wood wedges. After setting
the first row and making sure you are against a firm starting point, lay out three to four
rows before starting to install.
Lay the rest, plank after plank, in this manner until you have completed the first row.
Cut the last plank accordingly. Ensure that this first row is straight using the wedges to
maintain proper 3/8” expansion space from the wall. Planks may require scribing and
cutting to fit wall curvature if present.
Row Two:
When possible use leftover plank from the first row to begin the second row. The
leftover piece from the first row should be considered for this starter piece to
minimize waste. Initial layout of material will allow you to check your end seams
to ensure they are not too close. End joints on adjoining rows should be offset by
no less than 6”. Align this plank and lock the side into place against the first
plank in row 1. The next plank is aligned with the end joint first into the previous
plank in row 2. The side of plank is then tapped lightly against the previously laid
row. Continue laying in this way across the entire row. Remove the fitting wedge
and press in the row of planks with a light pressure on the long side. The Uniclic
Tapping Block may be required to ensure a tight fit of all long-side joints. The
planks are now laid row after row in this sequence.
Row Three and Remaining Rows:
Move rows if necessary to ensure that you are not showing any undesirable joint
patterns. The rest of the row’s end joints should be random throughout the floor.
Your first three rows are staggered ensuring that offset of previous row with end
joints are no closer than 6” from one another. When the planks are being placed,
a non-random pyramid or stair step pattern is used to ensure the planks remain
engaged through the force of the tapping. Stretch and stick low adhesion
delicate surface painters tape across every 3 to 5 rows of planks approximately
2’ apart from each other to hold the floor in place until the glue sets. Remove
tape within 24 hours.
Installer’s Responsibility:
Warranty for separation of planks and damage caused by the use of incorrect tape or
length of time tape was allowed to remain on the floor is the responsibility of the
installer.
Page 5
Generic Multi-Layered T&G Installation Instructions 071315