INSTRUCTION MANUAL Bluenose • CANADIAN FISHING SCHOONER 1921 • TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS SCALE: 3/16" = 1’0" (1:64) Overall length: 32-3/4" Overall height: 27" Overall width: 5-1/4" MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO.
By the early 1900s, the fishing schooner had developed into a fast, efficient vessel. American and Canadian schooners were similar in design. Both operated on the Grand Banks off Nova Scotia. They carried 10 or more small dories from which two-man crews fished. Skippers had raced each other for years, but the friendly rivalry took on its international flavor in 1920. H. W.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction and Credits Brief History Before You Begin Tools needed to Start Construction How to Work With Plans & Parts Painting & Staining the Model 2 4 5 5 6,7 8,9 Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull 1. Bending Wood 2. Center Keel Assembly 3. Installing The Sternpost 4. Cutting the Rabbet 5. Tapering the Stem 6. Installing the Bulkheads 7. Installing the Stern Blocks & Transom Framing 8. Installing the Horn Timbers 9. Covering the Mast Slots 10. Installing the Waterway 11.
INSTRUCTION MANUAL BLUENOSE Canadian Fishing Schooner 1921 Model by Bob Evans MODEL PLANS AND INSTRUCTIONS BY BEN LANKFORD ASSISTED BY ERIK A.R. RONNBERG, JR. Model Shipways developed the Bluenose kit in 1996. The model is based on several sources. In 1961, John R. Stevens prepared plans for the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. He modified Roué’s original hull lines to include more forward sheer.
Before You Begin Tools needed to start Construction A. Knives and saws Bluenose is a beautiful, interesting ship and makes a splendid model. Assembling the plank-on-bulkhead hull develops an understanding of how real ships are built, while laser-cut parts assure an accurate shape. Although britannia, brass, and wood fittings facilitate construction, many require final finishing prior to installation. This is especially true for the britannia castings and is discussed later. 1. Hobby knife 2. No.
How to Work With the Plans & Parts Before starting the model, carefully examine the kit and study the plans. First, determine if all the listed parts are present. Handling them will produce a better understanding of the kit’s requirements. Try to visualize how every piece will look on the completed model. Also, determine ahead of time what must be done first. The instructions will help, but a thorough knowledge of the plans at the outset is essential.
a pair of small pliers and pull in opposite directions. Thin brass sheets can be scored with a utility knife and metal straightedge, then snapped off. Use two or three light passes, cutting against a maple chopping block, birch board, or glass backing. Drilling holes in brass with a pin vise is a slow process. The solution is to mount a handpiece for flex-shaft machines in a hobby drill press. Several companies manufacturer this tool and it is worth the cost.
Painting & Staining the Model Beginning with directions on applying finishes may seem strange, but it isn’t. Much time and effort can be saved and more professional results obtained if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Paint small parts, masts, and spars before they are installed. The painting sequence must be well thought out; otherwise, assembly difficulties can arise. For example, painting a cabin or hatch coaming is easier if it isn’t glued to the deck.
Masking surfaces: Masking can be a tricky process. Some brands of masking tape are worthless, because they allow paint to seep underneath their edges. For masking fine stripes or straight and curved lines, use a graphic arts tape such as Chart Pak. It comes in widths as fine as 1/32” and 1/64”. Chart Pak tapes have superb adhesion and won’t bleed when firmly applied (burnishing is recommended). Black plastic electrician’s tape and Scotch Removable Magic Tape are also excellent.
Stage 1 Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull Fig. 1-1 Center Keel Assembly Building Board 1. Bending Wood Building a P-O-B hull requires bending some wood without distorting its desired position (doing so stresses glue joints and fasteners). Although the term steam bent is used to identify the process, there are three ways to do it. Straight Edge Wax Paper or Plastic Wrap Weight Steam bending: Hold the piece over a kettle of boiling water and bend. Hold the wood in position until it cools.
2. Center Keel Assembly The first step in constructing the hull is to assemble the laser-cut center keel. With a sharp pencil, mark the reference line and bulkhead stations on both sides of the center keel. Be especially critical when locating the reference line; it is a key to proper alignment. Measure from several points on the plans. Lay a sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap over a flat building board or table, and place the center keel halves on top. Affix the joints with white or woodworker’s glue.
every bulkhead. It should feather out and lie precisely on the bearding line. If not, trim until it does. Also check that the top of each bulkhead at the centerline is flush with the top of the center keel. Since alignment is based on the reference marks, slight errors can occur. Sand or add shims until the bulkheads and center keel surfaces are flush (Figure 1-7). Next, sand in the remaining bevels.
The waterway on the quarter deck is fitted similarly, except it is flush with the 1/16” thick deck planks Fig. 1-10 Horn Timbers 11. Installing the Knightheads & Hawse Timbers Knightheads and hawse timbers are 1/8” thick. On the real ship, hawse timbers angle forward. After mounting them, drill the hawse holes, then add the anchor cable chafing block (Figure 1-12). Option: Use a solid sheet for the hawse timbers and knightheads. Horn Timber 12.
15. Installing the Great Beam & Deck Beam The great beam (two laser-cut pieces) at the quarter deck step sits atop Bulkhead H. Glue the laser-cut deck beam forward of Bulkhead H. This beam provides a landing for the fore deck planking (Figure 1-15). Fig. 1-13 Installing The Main Rail Cut From Wide Strip Laser Cut That completes the basic hull framing. Touch up rough spots with sandpaper. Consider painting the bulwark stanchions before continuing.
Stealer: Plank inserted into another plank or between two adjacent planks to reduce their width. Or, when two planks taper toward a narrow end, both may have to be cut off and a wider plank substituted to leave enough wood for fastening. Fig. 2-1 Planking Shown Using Stealer Inserts Stealer Counter: Underside of the overhanging portion of a ship’s stern. 1. Getting Started Most modelers find planking tedious. Work slowly and think of each plank as a project unto itself.
3. Planking Butts Fig. 2-4 Hull & Transom Plank Intersections Few trees grow as tall as ships are long. Consequently, real planks were generally 20 or 30 feet in length. Some builders think a plank as long as the model is easier to use. They scribe in fake butts or omit them. Although this can be done, working with shorter planks has its advantages. For example, tapers mark quicker and only one hand is needed to hold and fasten the plank. Should a mistake happen, just a small piece is affected.
6. Planking the Outer Hull Fig. 2-7 Planks at Counter Belt Layout: Planking from the deck to the keel is tapered fore and aft. Consequently, the hull is divided into Belts A through D. Horn Timber This Plank Goes on Counter Stern Block On Sheet 2, use a tick strip to mark the belt seams along each bulkhead. Transfer these points in pencil to the model. Now temporarily tack four, 1/16” x 3/32” basswood battens along the port and starboard belt lines.
your proportional dividers to the number of planks in Belt A. Span the width of Belt A with the long legs. The distance between the points on the short legs is the width of each plank in the belt. Mark these lines on the bulkheads with a pencil. Belt A is now completely marked. Fig. 2-10 Nibbing Ideas Nibbing Strake The next step is to cut planks to fit between the marks. Belt A doesn’t require spiling, so make straight tapered planks. Start at Bulkhead H.
The alternative approach is to install the coamings, hatches, and deck structures on top of the deck, but remember to reduce their height by 1/16”. Deck Planks: Deck planks are 1/16” thick. They taper going aft on the quarter deck, and run more parallel to the cabin than the centerline. To omit this detail, run planks parallel to the centerline without tapering. While not completely accurate, it will still look presentable. Planks are parallel to the centerline on the fore deck.
Stage 5 Adding the Hull Details Fig. 5-1 Deck Structure Details Optional Tabs to Secure Sides of Coamings Groove Side Optional Rabbet in Coaming 1. Fishing & Racing Gear On the plans are symbols of a fish and pennant. The former identifies equipment used primarily for fishing. It was removed during a regatta to reduce weight. The pennant symbolizes racing gear. Fishing paraphernalia is provided. Without dories, anchors, and windlass hoisting machinery, the model looks bare.
4. Hatches Fig. 5-4 Bowsprit Bitts & Samson Post Make hatch covers as either planked structures or from 1/32” thick sheet. Dip lifting ring shafts in cyano, then insert in two diagonal corners on each cover. Don’t forget the eyebolts in the deck. They secured the canvas covers that went over the hatches in bad weather (Figure 5-3). 5.
10. Fife Rail & Fore Boom Crutch The main fife rail, rail bar, knees, fore boom crutch, and crutch pad are laser-cut parts. Stanchions are Britannia, but make the bitts from stripwood (Figure 5-7). Drill holes and insert belaying pins. Fig.5-7 Mainmast Fife Rail Slot for Boom Crutch Drill Holes For Belaying Pin Drill Hole for Belaying Pin Laser Cut Chamfers Laser Cut Casting 11. Galley Stack Laser-Cut Boom Crutch & Seat At the base of the Britannia galley stack is a pad.
Winch shaft, gear, sprocket, and winch heads: This assembly fits on the jumbo jib boom crutch bitts. Starboard winch head, bearing, and sprocket are already on the shaft. Slide the large winch gear, bearing, and port winch head onto the starboard side. Enlarge the holes if these parts don’t fit. Glue the assembly to the boom crutch bitts, then add the port and starboard winch head pawls (Figure 5-9). Fig.
17. Eyebolts & Cleats Fig. 5-13 Building a Dory Eyebolt locations are shown on Sheets 3 and 6. Drill a hole wherever one is required. Attach blocks to eyebolts requiring them. Using a toothpick or Microbrush, spread a thin film of cyanoacrylate on the bolt, then insert. Don’t overdo the glue. When all are mounted, test the bond by tugging on each eyebolt. Eyebolts are simply brass wire bent into a loop. To close the loop, touch with a little solder or epoxy.
Trestle Trees and Spreaders: Fashion trestle trees and spreaders from stripwood. Between the spreaders is a brass rod (Figure 6-3). Fig. 6-1 Mast Head Fig. 6-2 Topmast Heal Tenon for Cap Pin Saddle (foremast) and Boom Rest (main mast): These are laser-cut, port and starboard halves. Make the chocks from stripwood (Figure 6-4). Metal Fittings: Duplicate ironwork on masts, booms, gaffs, and bowsprit from brass strip and eyebolts. Refer to (Figure 6-5) for details and procedures.
4. Building the Booms & Gaffs Fig. 6-5 Making Metal Fittings From Brass Solder or Not The jumbo jib and fore booms have metal fittings at their forward ends. The main boom and fore and main gaff have laser-cut jaws. Form a curve at the gaff jaw’s throat (Figure 6-6).
Bobstays: Support the bowsprit from upward loads. Bowsprit guys, sometimes called bowsprit shrouds, support jibbooms and bowsprits from side forces. Bowsprits occasionally have a vertical strut below the jibboom cap to increase the stays’ downward pulling force back to the hull. This strut is the martingale or dolphin striker. Head stays run through the jibboom, down to the dolphin striker. Head stays run through the jibboom. down the dolphin striker, and back to the bow.
Braces: Lines attached to the ends of yards for directing their angles and holding them taut. Lifts are standing or running lines for holding yards when lowered. A topping lift is a line holding up the boom when the gaff is down or absent. Vangs, port and starboard lines, prevent a gaff from swinging sideways. 1. Rigging Options Like the real ship, the model can be rigged four ways. Consider these options: Full set of sails: Tends to hide detail. Sails furled: Here is a pleasing compromise.
Seizings: Seize lines with cotton, nylon, or silk thread. Do not secure lines with knots. Knots are for shoelaces. Touch seizings with diluted white glue (Figure 7-1). Beeswax: Protects lines against moisture and lays down fuzz. To soften beeswax, hold it to a light bulb. Run the line across the beeswax, then through your fingers to soften and smooth it. Do this several times to thoroughly coat the line. When done, iron the sails. Be careful not to burn them.
Figure 8-3 also shows the sequence for reeving lanyards. When looking outboard at any deadeye, always start with a knot in the upper left-hand deadeye hole. Consequently, port deadeyes have the knot aft and starboard deadeyes have it forward. Keep an eye on the masts. Rigging the shrouds can pull them out of alignment. Fig. 8-1 Lower Chain Plates Wire Deadeye Strop Pin File Split Ring Note: The upper deadeyes (laser cut) on the lower shrouds are oval.
The pullback stay and main topmast stay have a lanyard at one end to tighten the stay. While details heighten a model’s appearance, these lanyards can be omitted and the stays simply seized to the fitting. The spring stay has an eye splice at both ends. It belays to the bails. Topmast Flying Backstays: During races, a port and starboard main topmast flying backstay was rigged. Those who are building Bluenose in this configuration can install one backstay tight and the other slack. 3.
Attach as many lines as possible to sails or spars before mounting on the model. Play out enough line for reeving, handling, and belaying. Don’t be in a hurry to snip them flush. They may need retensioning as rigging progresses. Sheet 6 contains the belaying plan. Belay the line, then add a coil to each belaying point. 1. Jumbo Jib, Jib & Balloon Jib Installing sails: Substitute split rings for hanks. Real hanks are difficult to make at 3/16” scale. Set sails either to port or starboard, but be consistent.
Main Topsail: It always sets on the port side of the main peak halliards, but with the tack over the main gaff on the starboard side. This sail has one sheet and tack. The clewline feeds through fairleads and blocks. No topsails: Hook the sheets to the halliard, bring them to the mast, and hook somewhere at the masthead. 4. Fore & Main Sails Lace the sails to the boom and gaff and to the mast hoops. Note: Double hoops provide added strength near the boom.
RIGGING LINE DIAMETERS .10mm (.004") .20mm (.008") .25mm (.010") .40mm (.016") .50mm (.020") .60mm (.024") .75mm (.030") .80mm (.032") .90mm (.035") Bibliography 5. American Fishermen, by Albert Cook Church. New York: W. W. Norton, 1940. 1. Bluenose, by Brian and Phil Backman. Toronto: McClelland and Stewart, 1965. Many photos of Bluenose in races with Gloucester fishermen and closeup bow and stern views. Probably the best book on Bluenose and a major reference for Model Shipways’ kit. W. R.
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MODELER'S LOG Date Time Notes MODEL SHIPWAYS A Division of Model Expo Inc. P.O.
When done, iron the sails. Be careful not to burn them. Next, cut the sail shape using Line A in Figure 7-4. Fold the hem, iron it flat, and sew as close to Line B as possible. Tuck the ends and hand stitch the corners. The sail is ready for stretching. Sewing Aids: Visit a fabric shop and purchase a bottle of Fray-Chek. Running or brushing it along the edge of the cloth prevents the material from unraveling when cut and produces a sharp edge. Apply it to the sail before rolling the hem.
Figure 8-3 also shows the sequence for reeving lanyards. When looking outboard at any deadeye, always start with a knot in the upper left-hand deadeye hole. Consequently, port deadeyes have the knot aft and starboard deadeyes have it forward. Keep an eye on the masts. Rigging the shrouds can pull them out of alignment. Note: The upper deadeyes (laser cut) on the lower shrouds are oval. On the real vessel, wire rigging is spliced just above the upper deadeyes.
halliard (Figure 9-2). Remove the sheet and tack. rope prevents chafing. Simulate it by gluing on some cotton or other material, then painting it to look like rope. 3. Fore & Main Topsails Seized them to the mast hoops (Figure 9-3). Fore Topsail: It has a double sheet and tack. Tighten one, then run the loose partner over the main topmast stay so the sail can be set on either side.
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