THE AMERICAN FISHING SCHOONER Technical Characteristics Scale: 1/4” = 1 ft. ( 1: 48 ) Length: 33” Width: 5-1/2” Height: 28” Manufactured by Model Shipways Kit No. MS2109 BENJAMIN W. LATHAM The northward spring migrations of the American mackerel (Scomber scombrus, L.) gave rise to one of the most interesting and speculative facets of the New England fisheries in the second half of the 19th century and the early decades of the 20th.
Instruction Manual The American Fishing Schooner Benjamin W. Latham Noank Mackerel Seiner, 1902 By Erik A. R. Ronnberg Jr., 1973 Plank-On-Bulkhead Construction and Overall Manual Update By Ben Lankford, 1994 Model built by Bob Bruetsch The more you read about the New England fisheries, the more fascinating their history becomes.
(continued from front cover) The schooners of the mackerel fleet varied considerably in size at the end of the 19th century. Prior to 1880, vessels suitable for this work usually measured 60-80 tons, but with the introduction of new hull types and incentives to increase the sizes of new schooners, the early 1900’s saw schooners of 120 tons, and more, being fitted out for mackerel seining.
CONSTRUCTION STAGES AND TABLE OF CONTENTS Brief History Introduction/Credits Before You Begin How to Work With the Plans & Parts What You’ll Need to Start Construction Painting & Staining the Model Cover, pg 3 Pg 2 Pg 5 Pg 6 Pg 7 Pg 8 Stage A: Framing the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull 1. Bending Wood 2. Center Keel Assembly 3. Installing the Keel-Stem & Sternpost 4. Installing the Bulkheads 5. Installing the Transom 6. Covering the Mast Slots 7. Drilling the Rudder Stock Hole 8. Installing Horn Timber Cheeks 9.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN This kit differs from most in that its large scale (1/4” = 1 ft.) will permit the model maker to fabricate or “scratch build” most parts with great accuracy, and in some cases, duplicate full-size construction or techniques in miniature. For this reason, the “hows” and “whys” of the vessel’s building and operation will be explained in greater detail than is otherwise customary. The novice who attempts this kit should accept this challenge to the full limits of his or her abilities.
HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS AND PARTS Before starting model construction, examine the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiarizing yourself with the kit will serve two purposes. First, it will let you determine that all parts have been supplied as listed. And second, you’ll be surprised at just how quickly handling the parts allows you to better understand the kit requirements. Try to visualize how every part will look on the completed model. Also, determine ahead of time what must be done first.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION Silver Solder: If extra strength is desired, and also to avoid the lead in softer solder, silver solder can be used. A propane torch is a must, as the melting point of silver solder is much higher. Clean the metal and apply the flux (liquid silver solder flux is better than the borax type). Cut a very small piece of solder and lay it next to the joint. This is necessary because, unlike soft solder, silver solder will not break away from the roll.
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with directions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be obtained, if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Painting of various small parts, masts and spars should be accomplished before they are installed on the model.
Grub (or Great) Beam: often painted white for visibility at night. FIG. 1b – Scribing the Waterline Pencil or scriber Deck: could be light grey, although some vessels’ decks were painted Pea Green. Sometimes great circles were swept around the quarter bitts, at the grub beam, and abreast the foremast. The color used for the deck was then painted within the radii (see perspectives drawings on sheet 3 or 4––these are the dark areas shown on the deck around fiferails, windlass, and along the waterways).
STAGE A FIG. 1c – Assembling the Two Center Keel Pieces Wax paper or plastic wrap FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Bending Wood Building board or table Building a P-O-B hull requires some wood bending and twisting of the wood parts which must remain in the desired position so as not to put too much stress on glue joints and fasteners.
The top of the sternpost requires a slight recess where the rudder stock will be located. Carve this in before installing the sternpost (also see figure 3). Option: You can add the keel-stem and sternpost before cutting the rabbet. It makes the rabbet a little more difficult to cut, but allows an easier installation of the keel-stem because there is more gluing surface. FIG. 5 – Fore & Aft Bevel of Stanchions Sanding block 3/16”bulkhead 1/8” 4.
Next, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slight bevels that were not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff basswood batten about 3/32” thick and lay it across the bulkhead edges and deck in various locations (see figure 8). If not fair, sand the bevels that stick out, or add shim material if there are dips. This is an important check. When you start planking, the planks should lie flat against the bulkheads. No bumps or dips should occur on the surface.
8. Installing Horn Timber Cheeks FIG. 11 – Installing the Transom From just forward of the hull/sternpost intersection to the transom, fit a 1/8”-square piece between each bulkhead on both sides. These “cheek” pieces are located slightly more than 1/16” up from the bottom of the center keel. This area of the center keel represents a horn timber on a real ship. The cheeks are for attaching the hull planks at the horn timber. On a real ship they are bolted to the horn timber (see figure 12).
STAGE B FIG. 14 – Planking with Stealers PLANKING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL Stealer 1. Getting Started The planking process is tedious and you should plan on spending some time doing the job. Work on each plank as a project unto itself. Rushing will only result in frustration and a poor result. PLANKS GETTING TOO WIDE Single plank insert Since both sides of the hull will be identical, you can cut two planks the same shape at once. Fit one plank at a time to each of the sides.
A plank length approximately 6 inches will cover four bulkhead spaces. This is a comfortable length to handle for this model. To scale, it is a plank 24 feet long. However, to avoid having very short pieces at the bow and stern, you may need to use a longer plank to complete the run. FIG. 18 – Sloping the Plank Edges BOW AREA Planksheer Edge must be sloped and fitted To follow real ship rules, you should stagger the butts on the model (see figure 15).
FIG. 19 – First Two Strakes in Place Start 2 3 1 “K” “J” 6 “G” “B” “F” 4 5 The next step is to cut planks to fit between the marks. Belt A will not require spiling, so straight tapered planks can be made. Start at Bulkhead G and install the upper plank under the quarter deck planksheer. Use two planks, one from Bulkhead G to K, and another from K to the transom. First, lay a piece of planking material over the bulkheads. Using a pencil, mark the lengths at each of the bulkheads.
post. These two planks must have their edges sloped so they meet flush (see figure 20b). Belt C also has some twists, so steam bend them in place if necessary. Laying the Planks in Belt D: This belt will contain the garboard strake (next to the keel) and two other strakes. It also will contain two stealers in order to reduce the width aft (see figure 20c). All the planks here will be very wide and must be spiled. You will need to use the wide planking strips provided in the kit.
Hatch & Cabin Coamings: Before planking, you must decide how you want to treat the hatch and cabin coamings. A recommended approach for doing it the way it was done on the real ship, is to install all coamings first. You can then plank around the coamings. On the underside of the coamings, insert some scrap wood so the deck planking has a support for gluing (see figure 20h). FIG. 20h – Hatch & Cabin Coamings Deck Planks: The deck planks should be 1/16” square.
Procedure: The fishing schooners had a very unusual deck planking layout and nibbing arrangement, so follow the plans carefully (see figure 20i also). Cut the nibs into the edge of the planksheer as you go. The fore deck plank should be laid parallel to the centerline. Start at the centerline and work outboard. Scrape off any glue squeeze-out before going to the next plank. Planking butts can be used, like the outer hull, or they may be omitted.
STAGE E FIG. 23 – Railing at Main Deck Deck Main rail ADDING THE HULL DETAILS Before beginning with the details, outline all topside items on the deck by marking their locations with a pencil. Take all measurements from the plans using tick strips. Proper locations should be measured from some firm “bench mark” such as a mast hole or a station line marked on the deck. Add all equipment on or near the bulwarks first, before adding those near the centerline. 1.
6. Main Pinrails These are simple swellings of the main rail on its inboard sides abreast of the main mast which hold the belaying (see lower right of figure 25). Note dimensions and their location on the hull plan. No alterations to the main rail are necessary for fitting the belaying pins at the fore shrouds. 7. Boom Jiber Box This is an extension of the taffrail (main rail at the stern) and should be blended smoothly with it.
11. Bowsprit At this point, the bowsprit should be made. See the section on spar making for various construction methods. Next, make the samson post and fit it very snugly into the deck. After this is done, the bowsprit heel socket should be carefully located on the post’s forward side. Take the post out and mortise the socket into position. Then cut a tenon into the bowsprit heel. Next, replace the post and test fit the bowsprit.
FIG. 32 – Assembling the Windlass & Bitt Support Mechanism FIG. 31 – Anchor Catted Rocker arm (2 castings) Clasp (wood) Samson post (wood) WINDLASS ASSEMBLY Cleat Windlass barrel (1 casting) Snatch cleat Rocker arm (1 casting) Quadrant (2 castings) Buffalo chock omitted Pivot (1 casting) FIG.
STAGE F MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION 1. General Information Carefully study the details of masts and spars which appear on all four sheets of the kit plans. Sheet 3 of 4 contains details of the hardware which must not be overlooked. Likewise, the leads and belaying points for the running rigging must be given careful attention.
Now make and fit these members to the mast, securing them firmly with glue and pins. Allow them to dry firmly. Meanwhile, fashion the spreaders from 1/16” x 3/32” stripwood, tapered as directed on Sheet 4 of the plans. Make end notchings and add any prescribed eyebolts, but do not glue the spreaders to the trestletrees until the masts are ready to rig. If installed now, they will surely break. Bands for the halyards: These may be added now.
FIG. 44 – Throat Halyard Fittings FORE MAIN Iron band Iron crane Crane Spreader Iron “gate” Heart iron Iron heart Trestle tree Cheeks, P & S Shackles Upper halyard blocks Block Topping lift eye (These views looking forward) Ring or spectacle iron Lower halyard blocks Oak chafe battens (strips 3/4” x 1-1/2”) nailed to mast. Sheet iron was later used; open seam on forward side Spectacle iron Ring Gaff jaw Gaff Topsail sheet blocks: P & S (fore) S.
Mast caps: Originally of iron, these are supplied as metal castings in the kit. But if you prefer to make your own, it is suggested that you make them of brass strips or short lengths of tubing, soldered together. You can also drill and file them out of brass or aluminum flat stock. The caps must be drilled through to accommodate bolts and links which support the spreader lifts and also serve as pivots for the bails (supporting half hoops) used for the stays (see figure 45).
8. Gaffs & Booms FIG. 49 – Gaff & Boom Jaws Methods of tapering and shaping these spars are the same as for the masts. But, you must adapt their lengths and the position of their fittings to suit the rigging and clear any fixed obstructions. For example, if you made an error, however slight, in spacing the fore and main masts so that the gaff and boom of the foresail strikes the main mast if swung from port to starboard, you must shorten the gaffs and booms to allow adequate clearance.
10. Ironwork Booms: The fore boom gooseneck has been illustrated in figure 46 and the jumbo boom gooseneck appears in figure 52. If you wish to fake the ironwork with paper and wire, simplified assembly methods are shown in figure 51. ures 55 and 57). First, fit the wooden jackstays onto both sides of the bowsprit along its upper outboard edges (see figure 56). Drill them out for the jib stops (for locations see Rigging Plan Sheet 2 and upper left corner of sheet 3.
FIG. 55 – Bobstay Irons FIG. 56 – Jib Stops Make wire staple; form eyes at ends X-SECTION Wood jackstay Figure-8 knot BASIC INSTALLATION Pin Bobstay link Wire link Wire staple Glue on paper “strap” Iron straps Bowsprit Paper “strap” MODIFIED FOR MODEL WORK Drill hole & cut groove in stem post Whipped ends FIG. 57 – Gammoning Lill pin, end bent over Wire eyebolts driven thru bowsprit Bolt Gammon strap Paper strap Iron rivets Ends recessed in stem knee & bent inward ACTUAL PRACTICE FIG.
STAGE G GENERAL RIGGING & SAILMAKING INFORMATION Rigging plans are often confusing because of the numerous lines involved, and the fact that overlapping and concealing of some of the detail occurs. Every effort, however, has been made to make the Benjamin W. Latham rigging procedure as clear as possible. Modelers should have little trouble, if the plans are reviewed thoroughly and the instructions are followed.
serving, and imparts depth, giving it life. Some of the early riggers added turps and black paint to the tar to harden it and give it a glossy black richness which had a very handsome appearance. You can achieve this quality even with Model Shipways paints which are dead flat without additives. Just mix in a little Crystal Cote prior to painting. When dry, rub down the rigging by drawing it through your fingers. This will eliminate any fuzziness due to loose thread fibers.
FIG. 60 – Serving FIG. 61a – Sail Tablings Fish hook or other swivel Option: secure line in a lathe, rotate lathe head by hand Vise Tie, touch with white glue when serve is complete Thread Serve Worm Margin 1/4” or 3/16” Cloth seams marked in pencil Twist Parcel FIG. 62 – Roping FIG. 63 – Reef Points Sewing machine needle (no thread) Overhand knot FIG.
ly to the look of the model, especially at the forward stays where the contrasting black stay and light running lines, along with their blocks, create interesting visual detail. On the plans, you will see that the belaying arrangement also indicates the inclusion of cleats or belaying pins for rigging lines such as the jib sheets and topsail tacks. And though without sails these cleats and pins are unused, they still should be fitted on the model. 9.
STAGE H FIG. 66 – Locating the Chainplates STANDING RIGGING As mentioned in the discussion under General Rigging Information, all lines for the standing rigging should be blackened in color. 1. Chainplates These fittings are one of the foundations for the standing rigging and should be considered carefully for this reason. The chainplates for this vessel are tricky–probably the toughest job on the whole model.
FIG. 69 – Chainplates of Essex-Built Schooners Main rail Monkey rail Main rail Monkey board Strap Recess in monkey board Monkey rail pierced Strap Main rail pierced Bolt Bolt Cove Waist Waist Chain plate Waist Cove Cove Side of strap Chain plate flush with hull plank below the waist Forge weld Planksheer BASIC ASSEMBLY Planksheer INSTALLED AT MONKEY RAIL INSTALLED AT MAIN RAIL FIG.
If done properly, the chainplates should be recessed into the hull so they are flush with the hull planking. Their heads should poke up through the rails (see figure 69). This will entail some fancy drilling and cutting, not to mention giving your layout work very careful attention. Nails for fastening the plates in true-scale fashion are no longer available. So, using a No. 75 bit, drill the chainplates to accept lill pins. Hold the pins in place on the hull and drive them in with a driver tool.
Setting Up the Deadeyes: Generally, the upper deadeyes should be set up to the shrouds so they line up parallel with the main rail (see figure 74). To set up each shroud line, first tie a stop knot in the lanyard of each deadeye. A Matthew Walker knot is most proper, but in this scale, a figure-eight knot makes a neat substitute. Next, reeve off the lanyards (see figure 75).
FIG. 76 – Pin Rack Details FIG. 74 – Line-up of Deadeyes Sheer pole Pin rack W.L. FIG. 75 – Deadeye Lanyards BROADSIDE DETAIL OF LASHING Lark’s head knot Matthew Walker knot END VIEW Seizings INBOARD VIEW FIG. 77 – Ratlines TOP VIEW GENERAL VIEW FIG.
STAGE I RUNNING RIGGING The running rigging lines are all beige in color. If you are going to apply beeswax to the lines, it is best to do it before rigging them. Especially in the case of the standing ends of running lines and those attached to blocks. Again, it is important to think about procedures well in advance of installing any parts. Where to Begin: If you plan to rig your model with sails, they should be made now and bent to the rigging and spars as pertinent running rigging is rove off.
FIG. 83 – Fore & Jumbo Boom Tackles FIG. 84 – Main Sheet & Crotch Tackle Mast Pendant Hauling end Ring hitch Hook Belayed To boom FIG. 85 – Fore & Jumbo Sheets FORE SHEET (and later jumbo sheet) FIG.
It should be anticipated that some topsail gear will lead to the gaffs. Precise leads are described in a later paragraph. There is also a flag halyard to rig from the peak of the main gaff (refer to figure 54). Don’t forget to rig the parrels (wire) and trucks (glass beads) to the gaff jaws (refer to figure 44). 4.
FIG. 86c – Gill-Guy FIG. 88 – Balloon Sheet Leader FIG. 87 – Jumbo & Jib Halyards Wooden rod Ring, thimble or jib hank (rigger’s preference) Blocks at mast head Main topmast shroud To head of sail Rope (can be served) Thimble (seized) Adjustable leader pendant Single becket block Halyard Whip FIG. 86d – Belaying Halyard at Bitt Thimble or lizard No gill-guys needed for the whips 1. Halyard hauled thru from abaft 3. Halyard belayed to pin & coiled 2.
BIBLIOGRAPHY History of New England Fishing Vessels: 1. Barnes, A.M. (compiler) American and Canadian Fishing Schooners, The American Neptune, Pictorial Supplement VIII Peabody Museum, 1966. An excellent compilation of photographs of fishing vessels; unhappily, Latham is not among them. Fine gravure work; excellent detail. 2. Chapelle, Howard I.
Museums with important collections relative to the New England Fishing Industry: 1. Cape Ann Historical Association 27 Pleasant Street, Gloucester, Massachusetts 01930. Models, paintings, photographs, news clippings, artifact material on exhibit. Comprehensive library on Gloucester maritime history. 2. The Mariners Museum Newport News, Virginia 23606. Models, paintings, photographs and artifact material on exhibit. Excellent library. 3.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS In preparing this manual, it was important to collaborate with individuals whose firsthand knowledge of New England fishing vessels could provide valuable insight necessary to the completion of this project. Each of the people contacted has taken great pains to preserve the subject matter in their area of expertise. Without their efforts, much of the history of New England fishing vessels, particularly those built between 1900 and 1940, would most probably be lost.
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