INSTRUCTION MANUAL Rattlesnake MASSACHUSETTS PRIVATEER Technical Characteristics Scale: 3/16” = 1’ 0” (1: 64) Overall Length: 28” Overall Width: 9” Overall Height: 18” Hull Width: 4-1/4" MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO.
Instruction Manual Massachusetts Privateer Rattlesnake 1780 By George F. Campbell, 1963 Plank-On-Bulkhead Construction and Manual By Ben Lankford, 1994 Model built by Bob Bruetsch The Model Shipways Hull and Rigging plans for Rattlesnake were prepared in 1963 by Mr. George F. Campbell, who passed away several years ago. Mr. Campbell was a noted British marine artist, author, naval architect, and historian. He was a member of the Royal Institution of Naval Architects.
Brief History It was supposedly in 1781 that Rattlesnake was built as a privateer at Plymouth, Massachusetts for a Salem syndicate; John Andrews, and others. The Preble Papers in the Massachusetts Historical Society indicate that the designer and builder was John Peck of Boston. She was first commissioned on June 12, 1781 with Master Mark Clark at the helm. This, however, is early in the year. Consequently, there is some question about the actual building date.
CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS Brief History Introduction/Credits Before You Begin What You'll Need to Start Construction How to Work With the Plans & Parts Painting & Staining the Model Pg 3 Pg 2 Pg 5 Pg 5 Pg 6 Pg 7 Stage A: Framing the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull 1. Bending Wood 2. Center Keel Assembly 3. Installing the Keel/Stem & Sternpost 4. Cutting the Rabbet 5. Installing the Bulkheads 6. Installing the Transom Framing & Transom 7. Installing the Bow & Stern Filler Blocks 8.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN The Rattlesnake is a very beautiful ship and makes a splendid model. The plank-on-bulkhead hull construction with laser-cut parts offers a unique building experience. It assures an accurate hull form, and develops an understanding of how real ships are constructed. The kit is supplied with a set of Britannia, brass, and wooden fittings to eliminate problems in making or machining such parts from scratch, which may be beyond the ability or resources of the average modeler.
HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS & PARTS Before starting model construction, examine the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiarizing yourself with the kit will serve two purposes. First, it will let you determine that all parts have been supplied as listed. And second, you'll be surprised at just how quickly handling the parts allows you to better understand the kit requirements. Try to visualize how every part will look on the completed model. Also, determine ahead of time what must be done first.
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with directions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be obtained, if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Proper timing in application of finishes and the use of masking tape to define painted edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchy stained surfaces.
STAGE A FIG. 1 - Assembling The Two Center Keel Pieces FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Bending Wood Building a P-O-B hull requires some wood bending and twisting, and the wood must remain in the desired position so as not to put too much stress on glue joints and fasteners. The term "steam-bent" will be used throughout the text whenever such a process is necessary. However, here are three ways to bend wood.
FIG. 2 - Installing The Keel, Stem & Stern 2 Taper Add dowels as necessary 4 Add sternpost 3 1 Add keel/stem Next, mark the bevels on the bulkheads. Use a tick strip to transfer the bevel line as shown on the plans, or cut the bulkhead patterns from the plan and glue them onto the bulkheads. You can also lay the patterns over the bulkheads and use a pin prick to locate the bevels. Cut the bevels with a #11 hobby knife blade as shown (see figure 4). FIG.
Next, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slight bevels that were not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff basswood batten about 3/32" thick and lay it across the bulkhead edges and decks in various locations (see figure 8). If not fair, sand the bevels that stick out, or add shim material if there are dips. This is an important check. When you start planking, the planks must lie flat against the bulkheads without incurring any bumps and dips on the surface.
FIG. 9 - Carving The Counter Block At Bulkhead “M” Side transom support–P/S Inboard transom support–P/S Carved counter block BHD “M” BHD = Bulkhead P/S = port/starboard FIG. 10 - Installing The Transom Side support FIG.
7. Installing the Bow & Stern Filler Blocks FIG. 12 - Installing The Bow Filler Block Forward of Bulkhead A and aft of Bulkhead M, add the filler blocks as shown on the plans. Carve the blocks to the hull form. The purpose of these blocks is to have more support where the planks take a severe curve. You will still need to steam bend planks at the ends, but with the blocks in place, the planks are not as likely to break as they pass over the last bulkheads.
11. Installing the Main, Forecastle & Quarter Deck Rails FIG. 14 - Installing The Main, Forecastle & Quarter Deck Rails Because the forecastle deck has more curvature, it has been laser cut for you. Cut all the other rails from strip wood. At the forecastle deck, first make and insert the rail stanchions in the pre-cut holes in the covering board. When adding rails, use a pin or dowel for alignment and for securing the rail atop the stanchions and bulwarks (see figure 14).
STAGE B FIG. 18 - Planking With Stealers Planking the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Before getting started, it 's a good idea to know some of the more common shipbuilding terms that apply to the planking process. Consider the following few key words as you work: Stealer 1. A plank is a single length of wood used for planking a hull or deck. A planking strake is a continuous line of planks, butted against each other from bow to stern, or wherever the strake begins or ends. Planks getting too wide 2.
FIG. 19 - Staggering The Planking Butts Bulkheads Real ship–must have 3 strakes between butts on same frame (model meets rule with plank length selected) modeler. However, by using shorter pieces there are some advantages. Since all planks taper to some degree, using the shorter piece will let you mark the taper quick, and the plank will be easier to fasten in place. And with a short piece, only one hand is necessary to hold it down. Also, if you make a mistake, you only have a small piece to do over.
FIG. 20 - Spiling 1 Use a compass–run the steel point along the plank in place and mark a parallel line on a new plank with the pencil lead end 2 Measure width & mark . Draw curve From the top of the wale down to the keel, all planking will require tapering forward and aft. Consequently, the hull below the wale has been divided into three belts; BELTS A through C. On this particular ship there is no "lower" edge to the wales.
FIG. 21 - Belt Battens Look for smooth flow of battens Top of wale A A B C A B C Use a tick strip and lift the plank widths from the Hull Planking Layout. If you have changed the locations of the battens, simply divide the space into six equal plank widths at each bulkhead. A set of proportional dividers would help. Mark these lines on the bulkheads with a pencil. You should now have a completely marked area for Belt A. The next step is to cut planks to fit between the marks.
Now, move down to the next planking strake and work it the same way that you did the previous one. Stagger the plank butts, starting at Bulkhead E. Continue until this strake is finished, then complete the other strakes in Belt A. At the stern, most planks will have a severe bend. These planks must be steam bent. Laying the Planking in Belt C: This belt contains the garboard strake (next to the keel).
STAGE C COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURE FIG. 25 - Hatch & Grating Coamings Center Keel Coaming 1. Correcting and Sanding After all the planks are installed, look over the entire hull. If you find seams with starved glue joints, rub some wood glue in the cracks and, if necessary, add some wood filler. When seams are filled, sand the entire hull and deck planks smooth. 2. Building the Head Rails Scrap supports for deck planking and coaming Deck plank FIG.
The natural wood planks will cover the existing planking, but you will still have the rails exposed. You could substitute these initially with the wood of your choice, cap them with the strips, or simply stain them to look similar. FIG. 28 - Building The Gangways Gangway plank When applying the strips, proceed exactly as you did for the basswood planking process. You may want to work with longer strips since the basswood planking already defines the plank shapes.
2. Launching Ways The second type of mounting that can be employed is the launching ways (or building ways ). This mount is most suitable for models without sails. It is supplied in kit form with instructions. Drilling of the keel is still required to apply the rods that anchor the model to the ways. The launching ways are easily assembled for mounting on the baseboard. If you use a larger baseboard, this would allow you to create a mini-diorama comprised of boat yard ground activity.
FIG. 31 - Hatches & Gratings Laser-cut grating Grating ledge must suit thickness of assembled grating Coaming After assembly, sand top surface & clean out holes Option 1: Flat-edge glued Option 2: Egg-crate style Glue FIG. 32 - Binnacle FIG.
FIG. 34 - Catheads & Anchor Details Knot Pin Open cleat CAT STOPPER To cleat Cathead SHANK PAINTER To eyebolt in deck Belay to rail stanchion After hoisting anchor, set cat stopper Bower anchor P/S Anchor cable Anchor rests against billoard on hull (chafing piece) Wood FIG.
FIG. 36 - Kevels & Chesstrees FIG. 37 - Galley Chimney Cleat end Line Line belays Drill hole to represent sheave Galley chimney Chesstree is basically a fairlead for line Round Square Fit into deck Thick pad on deck Pin or dowel to hull KEVEL CHESSTREE 8. Elm Pumps 12. Deck Buckets The pumps are supplied as Britannia fittings (see figure 35). Drill holes in the deck and insert the pump fitting. The pump body is a hollowed-out log. The plans show a metal bracket and pump handle.
FIG. 40 - Cannons Breech line Eyebolts in bulwark Outhaul tackle (or side tackle) Inhaul tackle (or train tackle) CANNON RIG 6 POUNDER GUN Eyebolt in deck 15. Quarter Badges 16. Cannons A separate Britannia fitting is supplied for the port and starboard quarter badges. Drill a hole at the top and bottom of each quarter badge so you can insert a pin for mounting and gluing them to the hull.
FIG. 41 - Ship’s Longboat Rail Knee Twart Frame Laser-cut lifts Molding 5 Add details after carving basic hull 3 Bottom Battens Carve/sand interior and exterior surface to boat hull lines carefully! Add keel after carving 4 1 Stern Bow Align tabs on all lifts as you glue up lifts 2 Cut off tabs and shape profile 17. Ship's Name The Rattlesnake name should be lettered on the surface of the stern. The neatest way to add this detail is to use dry transfer letters.
STAGE F FIG. 43 - Shaping The Masts & Spars MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION At this point, your model should have a considerable amount of stuff on board. Take another look, correct mistakes and touch up paint blemishes. Go over the plans again. Did you miss anything? When all looks well, get ready for the masts and spars. 1. The Importance of Scale While the scale of masts is important, the yards and gaffs are probably the most critical spars to consider in regard to proper scale.
FIG. 45 - Masthead Details FIG. 46 - Fid Hole Positioning & Fid Options Mast cap Tenon Round Cut chamfers to make square into an octagon Square Add pieces on all sides to build a shoulder for trestle trees Stop cleats for jeer strops P/S lower masts Fid hole TOPMAST HEEL Square Round Cheek P/S Sand edges to flow into round mast Hole (sheave for halliard) Bands–Fore & main only–brass, paper or paint FID OPTIONS LOWER MAST The fore and main lower masts have bands around them.
The boom rest for the mizzen mast is supplied laser-cut. To the laser-cut half ring, you will need to add the chocks separately (see figure 49). FIG. 48 - Fore & Main Top Platform Add the cleats around the masts as shown on the plans. The cleats must be made from strip wood. Drill a hole through the cleat and insert a pin for securing the cleat to the mast. Glue alone will not do the trick, because the cleat will probably fall off when you belay a line.
File edges and holes to correct angle FIG. 51 - Bowsprit Tapering & Tenon Bees Laser-cut cap Jibboom saddle Tenon Cleats at gammoning Hole Gammoning Shoulders for rigging BOWSPIT JIBBOOM END Fits into center keel notch FIG.
FIG. 53 - Boom & Gaff Jaws Parral beads, or just a line on model NO! Gaff jaws a little shorter than boom–cut-off this end YES! Drill hole Flat sides 5. Building the Lower, Crossjack, Topsail, Topgallant & Spritsail Yards You will build the yards now, but the installation will be done along with the rigging. Some of the rigging is included with the yard construction because it's easier to do with yards in hand. Footropes are best added at this stage.
three holes for reeving the lanyards. On a modern day ship, such a device would be replaced by a metal turnbuckle. Sometimes, you will find a heart or a bullseye. These are similar to a deadeye except there is only one large hole instead of three. They are used for more permanent installations. Chain plates are iron bars or rods for holding shroud deadeyes along the hull. At the topmast shrouds, there are no chain plates. Instead, there are rods or rope from the deadeye to the mast or lower shrouds.
The diameter of lanyards for deadeyes and hearts can be about 1/3 the diameter of the line, such as a shroud. The rigging lines provided in the kit do not cover all the sizes shown in the table. There are only certain sizes available. The guide immediately following the table suggests line selections. It is important to use as many line sizes as you have available. The relative difference in the various lines adds tremendously to the visual effect. With many variances, the model looks more scale-like. 4.
FIG. 54 - Seizings STARTER KNOTS Constrictor knot (will not loosen) Clove hitch 1 3 2 Wrap Glue 1 OR 1 2 Constrictor knot or clove hitch It is possible to make some homemade tools essential for the rigging process (see figure 56). You can also purchase similar shapes commercially. Tuck & glue PROCEDURE EYESPLICE 6. Rigging Tools Wrap FIG. 55 - Rope Coils Removable pin 7.
The cloth must be pre-shrunk, so wash it several times. When dry, iron the cloth, but be careful not to scorch it. Next, draw the seams and hem (tabling) lines and other reinforcements in light pencil, then sew the seams. A sewing machine makes fast work of the project. Use light tan cotton thread so that the seams show up nicely. Make some trial passes on a piece of scrap cloth and set the tension so the stitch does not make puckers in the stitch line. No actual reinforcement patches need be used.
FIG. 59 - Making The Sails Sail cloth Weave same as seam line direction Pencil lines–sew seams Pencil lines–sew to represent reef bands Mark with pencil "A" (cut) "B" "C" (final shape) Iron before sewing. Easier to sew Sew seams first, then cut at "A" "B" "C" Sew Tuck corners & sew by hand 9.
STAGE H FIG. 61 - Furled Sails STANDING RIGGING Full size material possible using "silkspan" but check bulk first If same material Keep your lines handy, sorted by sizes, and have them all nicely beeswaxed before you start. For seizings, you can use cotton, silk, or nylon sewing thread. This should also be beeswaxed. Keep your white glue and super glue handy for dabbing to seizing if necessary, to hold them in place. Cut to about this size for furling Full sail 1.
2. Backstays The topmast and topgallant backstays are similar to shrouds except there are no ratlines connected to them, except at the very top. Install them after the shrouds are installed. 3. Fore & Aft Stays Install the fore and aft stays after the shrouds and backstays are completed. Be careful not to pull the masts out of line when installing the stays. FIG. 65 - Ratlines Cut & glue Model option Thread with needle Cut & glue Model option All clove hitches 4.
FIG. 67 - Detail At The Main Mast Top Main topmast Mizzen topmast stay (Port & Stbd same) Topmast shrouds Topgallant shroud Lower lift Buntlines Ratlines Futtock shrouds Braces Mouse Futtock stave Jeers Shrouds Mainstay Main yard Truss FIG.
FIG. 69 -Rattlesnake Sail Plan Main TG Fore TG Reef bands Main topsail Fore topsail Mizzen topsail Fore topmast staysail Jib Spanker Main course Fore course Fore staysail Spritsail topsail Spritsail FIG. 70 -Typical Head Sail Rig Halliard Hook halliard & downhaul together near bowsprit (Head) (Luff) Clove thimble for downhaul (Leech) MODEL WITHOUT SAILS Downhaul Seams all parallel to leech Stay Model option: split ring Hank Metal Wood Rope (grommet) (Similar to Stbd.
FIG. 71 - Yard Rigs–No Sail Topgallant buntline Reef line (Other lines similar to lower yard) Tie off legs under yard Knot stop TOPSAIL YARD TOPGALLANT Jeers Buntlines & leechlines knotted at block Topsail sheet & clewline tied together Bunt Clewline Lift Bunt (Clew garnet, bunts & leech not on mizzen yard) Leech Brace LOWER YARD STAGE I RUNNING RIGGING It is now decision time. Will you rig with sails, or rig without? The following paragraphs discuss both choices and how to go about them.
FIG.72 -Typical Spanker Sail Peak halliard Throat halliard Seams parallel to leech OR Lace to gaff Leech Topping lift Gaff downhaul–block under jaws, leads to block, strapped to mast at deck, then belay to mast cleat Reef bands & points (could have 3 bands) Vangs P & S Wood mast hoops seized to sail Loose foot Mizzen mast Guy pendant Sheet Outhaul FIG. 73 -Spritsail & Spritsail Topsail (Looking Down) Rib & truck parral Thimble Lift Halliard–single blocks.
Oddly, the course does not have a reef line. The reason; courses are hauled up by leech lines and topsails by reef lines (see figure 71—it shows the reef line knotted off for a model without sails). 4. Fore & Main Topgallant Sails The parrals and halliard tyes are similar to those of the topsails, but notice that the topgallants have a different type of buntline than the topsails. It is a single line with a split near the bottom of the sail.
SCALE CONVERSION TABLE R Diameters for Lifesize Vessel 5/16" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1" 1-1/4" B Lengths for Lifesize Vessel 4" 5" 6" 7" 8" 10” 12” I G G I N G Diameters in Tenths of an Inch Diameters Converted to 3/16" Scale Inches in 10ths ÷ 64= .3125" .005" (.12mm) .375" .006" (.15mm) .5" .008" (.20mm) .625" .009" (.25mm) .75" .012" (.30mm) .875" .014" (.35mm) 1" .016" (.40mm) 1.25" .020" (.50mm) L O C K S FORMULAS FOR CONVERTING MILLIMETERS AND INCHES 1 mm = .
BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. The History of American Sailing Ships, by Howard I. Chapelle. 1935 (Reprinted) Provides a complete description of Privateer ships, the hull lines, sail and other plans of Rattlesnake prepared by Mr. Chapelle from Admiralty draughts. 2. The Search for Speed Under Sail 1700-1855, by Howard I. Chapelle. 1967 (Reprinted). Additional information and drawings of Rattlesnake 3. The Young Sea Officers Sheet Anchor, by Darcey Lever.
MODELER'S LOG Date 46 Time Notes
MODELER'S LOG Date Time Notes 47
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