INSTRUCTION MANUAL MODELING ODELING THE HE DAPPER TOM ✦ ✦ BALTIMORE ✦ ALTIMORE CLIPPER LIPPER PRIVATEER RIVATEER, 1815 ✦ Technical Characteristics Scale: 5/32" = 1 ft. Overall Length: 24"; Hull Length: 15-1/2" Width: 9" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 4" Height: 18" (top of main mast to bottom of keel) Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford Model prototype by Bob Werner ©2006, Model Shipways, Inc. Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc.
HISTORY During the 19th Century, many Baltimore Clippers were granted privateering licenses by the US Government. Since all commerce was subject to the legalized banditry of privateers, only a fast, well handled ship could be reasonably sure of reaching its destination. Privateers like the Dapper Tom depended on their sailing abilities and fire power to prey on foreign shipping and to escape the British men-of-war patrolling the high seas.
Before You Begin The Dapper Tom is an interesting model for beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a solid hull which has been machine-carved from select, medium-hard, fine-grained basswood. This style hull provides a quick and easy lesson in the basic shapes and proportions of hull design and helps to develop woodworking skills. Although the exterior of the hull has been carved close to the hull lines as shown on the plans, further carving is necessary for reasons of accuracy.
Painting and Staining It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with directions for applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved and a more professional result can be obtained if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Proper timing in application of finishes and the use of masking tape to define painted edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchy stained surfaces.
2. Carving the Hull Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 3” x 1” x 3/4” thick. Screw the block to the deck so the model can be held in a bench vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of the profile and correct it as necessary, using a long sanding block (Figure A-2). Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines (where hull meets keel) and station lines on the model (Figure A-3). Place the station marks on the center of the hull bottom and on top of the rails so the marks won’t be carved off as you work.
STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES 1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cut parts. Taper the stem and install the parts (Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows a scarf joint between the keel and stem with a step in the middle of the joint. This step has been eliminated in the laser-cut part. Also, the stem is shown to be made up of two pieces. A one piece stem is provided instead. Use pins or dowels to position the parts before gluing.
could also install a waterway without cutting the nibs. Another way, the scored decking could go into the bulwark, and a thin waterway glued on top of the decking. FIG. B-5 BULWARK DETAILS LASER-CUT RAIL RIGGING FAIRLEAD BLOCK STRIPWOOD RAIL AFT ALIGNMENT PIN OR NAIL LASER-CUT RAIL FORWARD 6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole PIN RAIL The ladder way shown on the plan indicates an open hatch with a ladder. If you want to do this you must cut a hole into the deck. If not, the hatch can have covers.
STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS 1. General Notes Don’t forget to file off any flash on Britannia metal fittings, clean the fittings and then prime them with grey primer before final paint. Locate deck fittings and place them into position. This can be done by measuring from mast holes, station lines and centerline (tick off from plans).
Install the cavils, cut from stripwood, across the bulwark stanchions in locations shown on the plans (Figure D-4). The gunport lids are Britannia castings. Install these in the open position. Add the line for retrieving and holding up the line. The casting has a ring where the line attaches but it is molded in flat with the casting so is useless for attaching a line. Drill a small hole at this ring, insert and glue the line (Figure D-5). 4.
STAGE E: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION Most references call a mast a mast, and anything else such as a boom, yard, gaff, and bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with that definition. There are two mast assemblies for the Dapper Tom. They are a foremast & main mast. The foremast is built up in three sections: lower mast, topmast, & topgallant mast. The main mast is built up in only two sections: lower mast & topmast.
stay and the jibsail halliard. The port side block is not used or is for other lines not rigged on this model. Figure E-4 illustrates the mast details. Main Boom Rest - The main mast has a rest for the boom. The rest is a laser cut part but requires support chocks cut from stripwood (Figure E-5). 3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars Yards Shape the yards in the same manner as the masts. The maximum diameter of each yard is at its center. Taper the yards outward from each center.
drilled into the hull. It is suggested that you do not glue the masts and bowsprit into the holes. The rigging will hold them in position. Furthermore, if the model gets restored in the future, the masts and bowsprits can be easily removed. Check the alignment of the masts and bowsprit. If not straight, looking aft, or at the correct angle shown on the plans, you can shim the holes. If necessary, drill the holes larger to accommodate shimming. FIG.
Running Rigging (Tan Line) 0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines & Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines, Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main Gaff Vangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards. 0.012" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Topsail Yard Braces & Sheets, All Jackstays, Fore & Main Sail Clue Garnets, Jib Stay Outhaul Tackle, Jibboom Guys Tackle, Boom Topping Lifts, Jib Halliard & Sheets & Downhaul, Jib Stay Inhaul & Outhaul tackle, & Topgallant Yard Tye & Halliards. 0.018" Dia.
have enough running rigging line so it can reach to its final destination, such as a belaying pin, with a little line left. Better to be too long than too short. Standing rigging such as yard footropes are included, as these would be very difficult to do with the yard hanging at the mast. WOOD HANDLE BRASS ROD FLATTEN END, FILE SHAPE PUSH PULL LARGE SEWING NEEDLE FIG. F-3 RIGGING TOOLS CUT WITH SNIPS FIG.
lant shrouds have no deadeyes or ratlines. The shrouds pass through the crosstrees and seize to the topmast shrouds. FIG. G-3 SETTING UP THE SHROUDS MAKE A LITTLE LONGER THAN REQUIRED. LET LANYARDS PULL SHROUDS TIGHT. 3. Foremast (Head) Stays Forestay -The forestay (9) sets up to a closed and open heart and collar at the bowsprit. The closed heart shown on the plan appears rather large for this ship. Normally, the open heart is simpler, and does not straddle the bowsprit as shown.
is a pair, passing on each side of the foremast and setting up port and starboard with lanyards to the eyebolts shown on the deck plan just forward of the foremast fife rail. The stay eye would be fitted with a metal thimble (Figure G-9). This arrangement is a common solution. However, on some ships the stay could have set up to bullseyes or deadeyes at the deck. There is usually many solutions to rigging these old ships.
STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING Before starting on the running rigging, have all your blocks stropped and/or seized to a line as much as possible. Some running lines may pass through a sheave hole, they require a block. If so try starting at the block and rigging backward. Of course, if in such a situation a block is required on both sides of the sheave, you are stuck with having to seize at least one of the blocks on the model. FIG.
3. Topsail Yards The jackstays, footropes & stirrups, lifts and brace blocks are essentially the same as for the lower yards. Clew Lines and Sheets - The clew lines (29) are just like the lower yard clew garnets, just a different name. There are no tacks. The sheets (28) hook to the clewline block, then go through a sheave (a hole will do) at the ends of the lower yards, through the block on the lower yard inboard of the clew garnet block and down to the belaying pins (Figure H-6).
The vangs (43) are fitted port and starboard. The plan does not clearly show where the fixed end of the fall is located. Seize it to an eyebolt in the deck close to the bulwark or on top of the cap rail directly in line with the line on the plan. The main boom sheet (45) lower block is fitted with a ring around the traveler rod on the transom. The running end can be belayed port or starboard to the cavils on the bulwark stanchions. The lead block on the deck can be considered optional. 7.
FIG. H-8 TOPSAIL, YARD TYE & HALLIARD HOLE IN MAST TYE RUNNER HALLLIARD EYEBOLT IN CHANNEL BELAY TO PIN RAIL TACKLE PORT AT MAINMAST & STARBOARD AT FOREMAST CHANNEL FIG.
FIG. H-10 GAFF THROAT & PEAK HALLIARDS COLLAR AROUND MAST D PEAK HALLIARD TO STARBOARD SIDE OF MAST TO PIN IN FIFE RAIL COLLAR AROUND TRESTLE TREE D S THROAT HALLIARD TO PORT SIDE OF MAST TO PIN IN FIFE RAIL S FIG. H-11 GAFF VANGS, BOOM TOPIPNG LIFTS & SHEET BELAY TO PINS ON BULWARK PIN RAILS VANGS P/S TOPPING LIFT P/S BELAY TO BULWARK PIN RAIL EYEBOLT IN DECK OR IN RAIL FIG.
BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. The Baltimore Clipper by Howard I. Chapelle. Marine Research Society 1930. Reprinted by Bonanza Books, Crown Publishing. This is a complete history of the Baltimore Clipper type. It contains many plans of contemporary schooners. 2. The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. 1819 (reprinted) Block and spar details, and typical rigging techniques of the period. 3. Steel’s Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging by David Steel.
MODELER'S LOG Date Time Notes 23
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