Service manual
7
3. R.O. Manifold Assembly–The manifold can
be installed on either the right or left side of
the under–sink area or a cabinet. The right
side is recommended because all the tubing
will be to the back of the cabinet and out of
the way. Installation in the basement is also
an option, one location is near the laundry/
utility sink where cold potable water and drain
access is handy. The mounting location should
allow adequate clearance and accessibility for
cartridge changes.
4. Feed Water Connection–The Feed Water
Saddle Valve should be located as close to
the manifold assembly as possible. USE A
POTABLE COLD WATER SUPPLY ONLY.
Softened water is preferred as it will extend the
life of the R.O. Membrane.
5. Drain Connection–The waste water must go
to drain through an anti–siphon air gap. The
air gap is provided for in the base of the faucet.
If discharging into a utility sink or standpipe,
an air gap of greater than 1" above the ood
rim must be provided.
Do NOT connect the system drain line to the
dishwasher drain or near the garbage disposal.
Backpressure from these units may cause the air
gap to overow.
SECTION IV. INSTALLATION STEPS
All plumbing should be done in accordance with state
and local plumbing codes.
NOTE: Some codes may require installation by a
licensed plumber; check with the local plumbing
authority prior to installation.
In restricted under–sink areas, it may be easier to
install the faucet rst. Allow adequate tubing lengths
for any nal component position.
A. Faucet Installation –
The faucet contains an
anti–siphon air gap. While the system is producing
water, the drain water ows from the R.O.,
through the air gap and then to the household
drain. The purpose of the air gap is to prevent
water in the drain from backing up into the R.O.
Drinking Water System.
The easiest installation is to use an existing spray
attachment hole. If the spray faucet hole is not
available, then the sink top must be drilled.
1. Mark the location of the center of the faucet
base.
2a. Drilling a stainless steel sink:
•Centerpunchtheholetoprovideastarting
point for the drill.
•Startwithasmallerdrillasapilot,andthen
drill a ½" diameter hole to accept the bolt
of a 1¼" Greenlee Hole Punch (1¼" chassis
punch).
•Cleanawayanychips.
•Installthepunchandtightenthenuttocut
the hole.
•Deburranysharpedges.
2b. Drilling a porcelain sink:
It is best to use a special 1¼" diameter cutter
designed for porcelain. A carbide tipped
masonry bit is a second choice.
•Placeapieceoftapeovertheareatobe
drilled to help prevent chipping.
•Drillapilotholefortheporcelaincutter.
Use the pilot drill supplied with the kit or a
carbide tipped drill.
•Whendrillingthe1¼"hole,drillslowlyand
carefully; the porcelain chips easily.
•Afterdrilling,cleantheareawell.Ironlings,
if left in place, can cause rust stains.
2c. Drilling a counter top:
NOTE: The counter top must be less than 1¼"
thick. Treat ceramic tile as porcelain until the
tile is penetrated, then use the carbide tipped
metal cutter.
Formica counter tops may be drilled with
a good 1¼" wood bit; drilling a
3
/
32
" pilot
hole will help keep the bit going straight.