Please read pages 6 and 7 before your first ride! Please perform the functional check on pages 8 and 9 before every ride! U SER MANUAL Please go through the check list of the delivery receipt together with your MERIDA dealer
Frame: 1 Top tube 2 Down tube 3 Seat tube 4 Chainstay 5 Rear frame Saddle Stem Handlebar Shift lever Brake lever Headset Seat post Seat post clamp 1 3 Rear shock Brake Front derailleur Cassette sprockets Rear derailleur Chain Chainring Crank set Pedal 2 5 4 Suspension fork Drop-out Brake Brake disc Wheel: Quick-release Spoke Tires Rim Valve Hub
Frame: 1 Top tube 2 Down tube 3 Seat tube 4 Chainstay Saddle Stem Seat post Seat post clamp Handlebar Brake/shift lever 1 Headset Brake Brake 3 2 Fork Drop-out Cassette sprockets Front derailleur Rear derailleur Chain Chainring Crank set 4 Wheel: Quick-release Tire Spoke Rim Valve Hub
Frame: 1 Top tube 2 Down tube 3 Seat tube 4 Chainstay Saddle Handlebar Brake lever Shift lever Stem (adjustable) Headset Front light with reflector Suspension seat post Seat post clamp Carrier 1 Rear light with reflector Brake Reflector Lock Cassette sprockets Front derailleur Rear derailleur Kick stand Chain Chainring Crank set Pedal 3 2 Brake Suspension fork Drop-out Dynamo 4 Wheel: Quick-release Spoke Rim Reflector ring Tire Valve Hub
1. Introduction Dear customer, In purchasing this MERIDA bike you have chosen a product of high quality and technology. Your new bike was produced with care and expertise and has been equipped with the best possible components. Your MERIDA dealer has assembled the bike, checked the function and made adjustments according to your needs so that you can enjoy cycling with complete peace of mind from the very first metres.
1. Introduction Note that the instructions may require further explanations, depending on the experience and/or skill of the person doing the work, some jobs may require additional (special) tools or supplementary instructions. In your own interest, never do any work unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If in doubt, ask your MERIDA dealer for advice! Before you set off, let us point out a few things to you that are very important to us being cyclists ourselves.
1. Introduction First we would like to make you familiar with the various components of your bike. For this purpose, please unfold the front and rear cover of this booklet. Here, you will find pictures of all types of bikes showing all the essential components. Leave this page unfolded while you read so that you can quickly locate the components referred to in the text. The illustrations show arbitrary MERIDA bikes – not every bike will look like this.
2. Table of contents 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Introduction.................................................1 Table of contents.........................................4 Before your first ride...................................6 Before every ride........................................8 After an accident.......................................10 Legal requirements for riding on public.......... roads........................................................12 7. How to use the quick-releases....................13 7.
2. Table of contents 12.1 Checking the bearing play of the headset............................................67 12.2 Adjusting the conventional headset..........67 12.3 Adjusting the threadless headset (Aheadset).............................................68 13. The suspension fork.................................70 13.1 Adjusting suspension forks......................70 13.2 Suspension fork maintenance..................72 14. The suspension seat post..........................73 14.1 Adjustment...........
3. Before your first ride 1. Road and fitness bikes are exclusively designed for use on roads with a smooth, hard surface. City, cross and trekking bikes are intended for hard-surface roads and paths. Mountain bikes are suitable for off-road use, but not for drops, dual slalom, free ride and downhill. For these purposes, we have special dirt, free ride and downhill models. Depending the model, dirt bikes are also suitable for drops, dual slalom, free ride and downhill.
3. Before your first ride 3. Are you familiar with the brake system? Check whether the lever of the front brake is in the position you are used to (right or left). If this is not the case, you will need to train to get used to it, as inadvertent use of the front brake can make you crash! Or ask your MERIDA dealer to switch the brake levers.
4. Before every ride Check the following points before setting off: 1. Are the quick-release levers or nuts of the front and rear wheel, the saddle and other components properly closed? For more information see chapter 7. “How to use the quick-releases“. 2. Are the tires in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure (thumb test, how far can you press the tire to the rim with your thumb)? For more information see chapter 11. “The wheels“.
4. Before every ride 5. If you want to ride on public roads, you must equip your MERIDA bike according to the regulations of your country. Riding without a light and without reflectors in the dark or when visibility is poor, is very dangerous because you will not be seen by other road users. Turn on the lights as soon as dusk sets in. For more information see chapter 6. “Legal requirements for riding on public roads“. 6. Let your bike bounce on the ground from a small height.
5. After an accident 1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs and whether the rims are still centered with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the wheels and watch the gap between rims and brake pads. If the width of the gap changes markedly and you have no way to true the wheel on site, you will need to open the brakes a little so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them. In this case remember that the brakes will not act as powerfully as you are used to.
5. After an accident 4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube or the bottom bracket shell as a reference. Bent parts, especially parts made of aluminium, can break without any previous warning. They must not be repaired, i.e. straightened, as this will not reduce the imminent risk of breakage. This applies in particular to forks, handlebars, stems, crank sets and pedals. When in doubt, replace these parts for your own safety. 7.
6. Legal requirements for riding on public roads If you want to use your bike on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of your country. This applies in particular to the reflectors and the lighting set! Ask your MERIDA dealer or the distributor in your country. You will find the address on the cover of this manual or on www.meridabikes.com.
7. How to use the quick-releases 7.1 Use of quick-releases How to fasten components securely Although handling quick-releases is very easy, they have repeatedly been the cause of accidents resulting from improper use. Quickrelease retention mechanisms essentially consist of two manipulable parts: Open the quick-release. The word “Open“ should now be readable on the lever. Over the second half of its travel, the force you need to move it, should increase considerably.
7. How to use the quick-releases Improperly closed quick-releases can cause parts to come loose. This can result in an accident with severe injuries. If you close a quick-release, do not pull the lever with your fingers propped up against a brake disc or a spoke. Close the lever again and check the position for tightness. If the lever can no longer be turned, it is properly fastened. Finally, lift the bike up a few centimetres, so that the wheel no longer touches the ground, and hit the tire from above.
7. How to use the quick-releases 7.2 Notes on the mounting of thru axle wheels With a conventional thru axle system, slide the thru axle through fork and hub so that the head of the Allen bolt comes to a rest on the right side, seen in direction of motion. Once the axle is mounted, let the fork deflect a few times, thus excluding that the axle gets jammed. Screw the nut onto the axle and tighten it according to the enclosed instructions of the fork manufacturer.
7. How to use the quick-releases There are other thru axle systems which are a combination of threaded axle and quickrelease system. With these systems, the wheel including brake disc, must be mounted in fork and brake calliper. Then, the thru axle must be slided through the drop-out of one fork leg into the thread of the second fork leg where it is screwed in. The fold-out screw-in fitting helps you in doing so. After this, close both quick-release levers to clamp the axle.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider Adjusting the bike Your body height is the decisive criterion for the frame size you need. Pay particular attention that there is enough space between your crotch and the top tube so that you won’t hurt yourself when having to get off your bike quickly. By choosing a specific type of bike, you already roughly determine the posture you will be riding in.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider Be sure not to pull out the seat post too far. The mark on the seat post must always remain within the seat tube. As a minimum, the seat post should be inserted by 2.5 times the diameter, i.e. with a 30 mm diameter seat post, at least 75 mm of it must remain within the seat tube. Make sure the part of the seat post inserted inside the seat tube is always well greased.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider Verify that the seat clamp is sufficiently tight by taking hold of the saddle at both ends and trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat tube. If you can rotate it, you must increase the clamping force and repeat the test. If sitting causes you trouble e.g. because it numbs your crotch, this may be due to the saddle. Your MERIDA dealer has a very wide range of saddles available and will be pleased to advise you.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.2 Adjusting the height of the handlebar The height of the handlebar determines the inclination of the upper body. Lowering the handlebars gives the rider a streamlined position and brings more weight to bear on the front wheel. However, it also entails an extremely forward leaning posture which is tiring and less comfortable because it increases the strain on your wrists, arms, upper body and neck. 8.2.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider Check that the stem is firmly fixed by taking the front wheel between your legs and trying to twist handlebars and stem. If the stem gives way, you have to increase the torque. If the handlebars are still too high or too low, the only solution will be to replace the stem. This can be quite a big job, as it may mean taking off and remounting all the fittings on the handlebars. Ask your dealer about the various stem types available.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider With adjustable conventional stems, the height of the front stem area is modified by a mechanism located on the bottom side. Release the bolt of the locking mechanism located on the bottom side of the stem until the ratchet mechanism comes loose. Do not unscrew it all the way, otherwise the whole assembly will fall apart. Adjust the stem, which can now be moved, according to your needs. Gently tighten the bolt of the locking mechanism again, until it engages.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider Untighten the stem clamping bolts at the side of the stem and pull the stem off the fork. Now you can remove the spacers. Raising the handlebar height must not be achieved by simply mounting more spacers. The upper edge of the stem clamping (or the spacer respectively) must surmount the top of the fork’s steerer tube by approximately 3 mm. Slip the spacers you have removed onto the fork tube above the stem.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.3 Correcting the fore-to-aft position and horizontal tilt of the saddle The inclination of your upper body and hence your riding comfort and pedalling power are also influenced by the distance between the handlebar grips and the saddle. This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post clamp. Some seat posts have two bolts for finer adjustment of tilt.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.4 Adjusting the gripping distance of the brake levers 8.5 Adjusting the tilt of the handlebars, brake levers and bar ends With most brake systems of MTBs, city and trekking bikes, the distance between the brake levers and the handlebar grips is adjustable. This gives riders with small hands the convenience of being able to bring the brake levers closer to the handlebars.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.6 Adjusting the handlebar position by turning the handlebar. Release the Allen bolt at the bottom or front side of the stem by two to three turns. Turn the handlebars to the desired position. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem. Then gently tighten the bolts evenly and crosswise. Try twisting the handlebars inside the stem tube, and tighten the bolt a little more if necessary. Observe the maximum torque (for more information see chapter 29.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.7 Adjusting the bar ends Retighten the bolts to the required torque. Bar ends give you additional ways of gripping the handlebars. They are usually fixed in a position that gives the rider a comfortable grip when pedalling out of the saddle. Therefore, they are usually mounted almost parallel to the ground or tilted slightly upwards. Note that the bolted connections of stem, handlebars, bar ends, and brakes have to be tightened to their specified torques.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.8 Adjusting the tilt of the handlebars and brake levers with road, triathlon and cyclocross bikes Triathlon handlebars In triathlons and time trials (training and competition), where a particularly aerodynamic seating position is important, so-called aero handlebars are used. With these aero models, the gear levers are often positioned at the handlebar ends.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.9 Adjusting the tilt of the handlebars and brake levers on road, triathlon and cyclocross bikes Road handlebars With road bikes, the straight extension below the drops should be parallel to the ground or point slightly down towards the rear. The tips of the brake levers should coincide with an imaginary straight line extending forward from the lower edge of the straight extension below the drops.
8. Adjusting the bike to the rider 8.10 Seating position on BMX and dirt bikes The seating position on BMX and dirt-bikes is not comparable to that on other bikes. When riding a BMX and dirt-bike, maximum control and movability on the bike are important. Such a seating position does not provide pedalling comfort when riding longer distances. In comparison to the conventional seating position, riding on a very low saddle considerably increases the stress on the knee joints.
9. The brake system The brake system Brakes are used for adjusting one’s speed to the traffic situation. If necessary, they must be able to bring the bike to a halt as quickly as possible. Such emergency-stops are also a study in physics. In the process of braking the rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel. The rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of overturning and only in the second place by the road grip of the tires.
9. The brake system 9.2 Rim brakes (general) The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt encourage wear on both engaging surfaces. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim can rupture under the tire pressure.
9. The brake system 9.3.1 Functional check Check whether the brake pads are perfectly aligned with the rims and still sufficiently thick. You can tell this by the grooves in the brake pad. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace them. The brake pads should hit the rim simultaneously, both first touching it with their front part. At the moment of the first contact the rear part should be a millimetre away from the rim.
9. The brake system 9.4 Checking, adjusting and synchronizing racing or side-pull brakes 9.4.2 Vertical adjustment of the brake pads With side-pull brakes, the brake arms are suspended from a common point, thus forming an integral system. Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two complete turns. 9.4.1 Functional check Push the brake pad to the required height and tighten the fastening bolt again.
9. The brake system 9.5 Characteristics of cantilever brakes 9.5.1 Functional check Cyclo cross bikes are usually equipped with cantilever brakes with a few special features in the brake system. Additional brake levers are mounted to the handlebars so that you can brake safely even in tricky terrain while riding securely with your hands on the upper part of the handlebar. These brake levers can be used on an equal footing with the other road bike brake levers.
9. The brake system 9.6 Rim brakes (U-brakes) Many BMX bikes are equipped with a rotor and in connection with this system with brakes, also referred to as U-brakes. Common U-brake designs have two brake arms mounted separately on either side of the rim. When pulling the brake lever, both arms are contracted by the cable, the pads touch the rim. The brake pads should hit the rim simultaneously, both first touching it with the front portion of their surface.
9. The brake system 9.6.2 Adjustment possibilities at the lever To adjust the brakes at the lever, release the knurled lock ring located at the point where the brake cable enters the brake lever on the handlebars. Release the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. In this way you shorten the free travel of the brake lever. Keeping the adjusting bolt fixed, tighten the lock ring against the brake lever mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming loose by itself. 9.6.
9. The brake system 9.6.4 Adjustment of the rear brake at the rotor system The rotor uncouples the brake cables from the handlebar’s angle of turn. It allows for the handlebar to be turned all the way round by providing full braking power at the same time. As a result, much more attention must be paid to the adjustment of the rear wheel brake.
9. The brake system 9.7 Drum or roller brakes 9.7.1 Checking and readjusting With these brake systems, the brake pads and surfaces are largely protected against the influences of weather. The braking power is transmitted through cables from the levers to the brakes. Regularly check whether you get a clear-cut braking response before the lever touches the handlebars. To a certain extent, wear of the brake pads can be compensated for directly at the hand lever.
9. The brake system Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as they can tear. Brakes that have only been adjusted at the hand lever can lead to a severely reduced braking power. Enclosed brake systems are particularly prone to overheating. This occurs when braking permanently on long and steep downhill roads or paths. As a result thereof, the braking power may be reduced (fading) with a complete failure of the brake in the extreme case.
9. The brake system 9.9 Disc brakes again, whenever the road surface and the situation allow it. If you are in doubt, stop and let the brake system cool down with the brake levers released. Disc brakes are distinguished by their formidable braking power and good weather resistance. They respond a lot faster in wet conditions than rim brakes do and produce their normal high power within a very short time. They also require fairly little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do.
9. The brake system 9.9.1 Checking and adjusting hydraulic disc brakes Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks while pulling on the lever. If brake fluid leaks out, contact your MERIDA dealer immediately, as a leak can render your brakes useless. To adjust the travel of the lever, turn the adjusting bolt located on the setting bush of the lever by using a small screwdriver or an Allen wrench. Keep in mind that the adjusting range of the bolt is limited.
9. The brake system 9.9.2 Checking, adjusting and synchronizing mechanical disc brakes Regularly check whether you get a clear-cut braking response before the lever touches the handlebars. To adjust the travel of the lever, turn the adjusting bolt located on the setting bush of the lever by using a small screwdriver or an Allen wrench. Keep in mind that the adjusting range of the bolt is limited. Do not try to unscrew the bolt beyond this range.
10. The gears The gears The gears on your bike serve to adjust your pedalling power to the slope of the road, wind conditions, and the desired speed. A low gear (where in the case of derailleur gears the chains runs on the small chainwheel at the front and a large sprocket at the rear) allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force, but you also have to pedal relatively fast. High gears (large chainwheel at the front, small sprocket at the rear) are for riding downhill.
10. The gears 10.1.1 Derailleur gears - how they work and how to use them Derailleur gears always work according to the following principle. Large front chainwheel Small front chainwheel Large rear sprockets Small rear sprockets – higher/heavier gear – big transmission – lower/easier gear – small transmission – lower/easier gear – small transmission 10.1.
10. The gears The Shimano Rapid Fire Plus shifters (e.g. XTR model 2007) work according to the usual Rapid Fire principle (see above), but in addition the small lever (the index finger lever) can be used with the thumb too. Using the thumb leads to the same shifting action like using the index finger. The chain runs to the small chainwheels and sprockets. So you can shift by thumb and index finger or use the thumb only.
10. The gears Press the large shifter of SRAM trigger shifters located under the handlebar with your thumb, to shift to the bigger chainwheels. The smaller shifter, located under the handlebar as well, but a bit higher than the big one, is pushed with the thumb, too, and makes the chain move to the smaller chainwheels. The principle of twist grips is slightly different. Twisting the right-hand grip towards you gives you a lower gear, while the same movement on the left produces a higher gear.
10. The gears 10.1.3 Road bike gear levers On road bikes the gear levers are integrated in the brake lever. With Shimano Dual Control levers, swivelling the entire brake lever inward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Up to three sprockets can be shifted per tap. Moving the small lever alone shifts towards the smaller sprockets, but only one per tap. SRAM Doubletap levers have only one shifting lever positioned behind the brake lever.
10. The gears 10.1.4 Bar end gear levers With Shimano and SRAM bar end shifters for triathlon and time trial use, the shifter is pressed downwards to move the chain to the smaller sprockets in the rear, i.e. to shift to a higher gear, and to the smaller chainwheels in the front, i.e. to shift to a smaller gear. By pulling the shifter upwards the chain can be moved to the bigger sprockets and chainwheels.
10. The gears 10.1.5 Inspecting and adjusting the derailleur gear The gears of your bike were carefully adjusted by your MERIDA dealer before delivery. However, bowden cables may give a little way on the first kilometres, making gearchanging imprecise. This will result in the chain not wanting to climb onto the next larger sprocket. 10.1.
10. The gears Shift the right gear lever to the highest gear. Now the inner cable will be totally relaxed and the chain will automatically run on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear at the sprocket cluster and check whether the chain rollers are perfectly aligned with the teeth of the sprocket. If the bolts are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error. Turn one of the bolts, counting the number of turns, and watch the gear changer.
10. The gears 10.1.7 Front gear changer Adjusting the swivelling range of the front gear changer requires a great deal of experience. The range within which the front gear changer only just keeps the chain on the chainwheel, but does not grind, is very small. It is often better to let the chain grind slightly on the derailleur than to risk having it fall off the chainwheel, which would interrupt the power train.
10. The gears 10.2 Multi-speed hubs - internal gear hubs Two advantages of multi-speed hubs are their enclosed design and the fact that you can switch up to 14 gears on the same lever. Beside this, the chain lasts a lot longer than with derailleur gears, provided it is taken care of. Multi-speed hubs from Shimano are available with a free-wheel, i.e. the wheel hub is combined with a hand activated V-brake or roller-brake, and with integrated drum-brake, the so-called back-pedal-brake.
10. The gears 10.2.2 Readjustment Multi-speed hubs need not be adjusted very often. The adjusting mechanisms are located at the hubs and/or at the shifting lever. There are two (red) marks on the hub which have to be brought into alignment by adjusting the cable directly at the lever or twist grip – similar to derailleur gears. 10.2.3 Readjustment of the chain tension of bikes with adjustable drop outs For the adjustment of the chain tension you need to release the bolt connections of the rear wheel axle.
10. The gears 10.3 Chain maintenance It still holds true today that proper lubrication of the chain ensures a long service life and provides for enjoyable riding. Not the quantity, rather the distribution and regular application of lubricant is what counts. Having cleansed the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply appropriate lubricants. To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers while you turn the crank.
10. The gears 10.3.1 Chain wear An improperly riveted or heavily worn chain can break, possibly causing a crash. Although the chain is one of the wearing components of a bike, there are still ways of influencing its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try only to use gears which allow a more or less straight run of the chain. Get in the habit of pedalling fast. Chains running on derailleur gears are worn out after approximately 1,000 to 3,000 km.
11. The wheels Wheels and tires The wheel consists of hub, spokes and rim. The tire is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the tube. There is a rim tape running around the base of the rim to protect the sensitive tube against the spoke nipples and the edges of the rim base, which are often sharp. The wheels are subject to considerable stress through the weight of the rider and his or her baggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces or ground.
11. The wheels Tires have to be inflated to the correct air pressure in order to function properly. Properly inflated tires are also more resistant to flats. An insufficiently inflated tire can easily get pinched (“snake-bitten”) when it goes over a sharp curb. The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of the tire or on the type label. Increasing the pressure even further does little to reduce friction but only makes the tire harder. Ask your MERIDA dealer for advice.
11. The wheels With Presta valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and press it in carefully until air starts to escape. With this valve type it often happens that the valve body is not screwed in properly and air slowly leaks out. Check the seat of the valve body in its stem. Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tires to high pressures. A better choice is a floor- or foot-operated pump equipped with a manometer which enables you to check the pressure at home.
11. The wheels 11.2 Rim trueness, spoke tension Check regularly the condition of the rims. Keep in mind that the friction generated by braking causes wear to the rims. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim can rupture under the tire pressure. If in doubt, ask your MERIDA dealer for advice. The tension exerted by the spokes has to be distributed evenly around the rim in order for the wheel to run true. If the tension of single spokes changes, e.g.
11. The wheels 11.3 Wheel fastening with wheel nuts or quick-releases The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub axles. Each axle is clamped tight in its drop-outs by means of hexagon nuts or a quick-release. Wheel nuts usually require a 15 mm spanner for tightening or loosening. This tool is a must on any bike ride, as you can have a lot of trouble repairing a puncture without it. Quick-releases require no tools at all.
11. The wheels 11.4 Repairing punctures Tire punctures can happen to any cyclist. As long as you have the necessary tools for changing tires and tubes and a spare tube or a tire repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle tour, however. For bikes with quick-releases, all you need in addition, are two tire levers and a pump; if your wheels are secured with nuts, you also need a suitable spanner for removing the wheel. 11.4.
11. The wheels If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest sprocket before removing the rear wheel. This shifts the rear gear changer right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel. Turn the wheel nut counterclockwise or open the quick-release lever as described. If you cannot remove the front wheel after releasing the lever or nut, it is probably still being held in place by drop-out catches.
11. The wheels Repair the puncture according to the instructions of the repair kit manufacturer or replace the tube by a new one. In the case of high pressure tires, we advise against repairing punctures. Ask your MERIDA dealer, if you are in doubt about what kind of rim tape to use. If you have removed the tire, you should also check the rim tape. The tape should lie squarely in the base of the rim, covering all spoke ends, and should not be torn anywhere or brittle.
11. The wheels To finish mounting the tire, start at the point opposite the valve. Using your thumbs, press the other side of the tire over the edge of the rim as far you can. Make sure the tube does not get pinched and squashed between the tire and rim by pushing the tube inside the tire with a finger as you work along. Check again that the tube lies properly inside the tire and press the last stretch of tire over the edge of the rim using the balls of your thumbs.
11. The wheels 11.4.4 Mounting wheels To mount a wheel, follow the reverse procedure of wheel dismounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the dropouts and accurately centred between the legs of the fork or seat and chain stays. Make sure the quick-release and the drop-out catches are correctly seated. If you have V-brakes, make sure you immediately connect the brake cable again! With U-brakes make sure the drop-out catches are correctly seated.
12. The headset Headset The headset connects the fork, stem, handlebars and front wheel to the frame but allows them to turn freely as a unit. It must afford virtually no resistance to turning if the bike is to go straight, stabilizing itself as it runs. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces subject the headset to considerable stress. In this way it can become loose and maladjusted. The adjustment of the headset is a job best left to your MERIDA dealer. 12.
12. The headset Hold the head cup in place with a spanner so that it stays in its new position. Tighten the locknut against the head cup with the other spanner. Check the headset again for play. If the fork does not turn freely and easily, you have tightened the bearing too much. In this case, readjust it. It may take several tries to adjust the headset accurately. It is essential for a long service life that the bearing moves easily without play. 12.
12. The headset Using a torque wrench, tighten the stem clamping bolts gradually up to the maximum value given in chapter 29 “Recommended torques for bolted connections”. You should not be able to turn the stem against the fork after tightening the bolts. Check the headset for play as described before. Take care not to tighten the bearing too much, as this could easily destroy it.
13. The suspension fork Suspension forks The damping is usually afforded by oil or by the self-damping properties of the elastomers. All MERIDA mountain bikes as well as some trekking and cross bikes are equipped with suspension forks. This feature gives you better control of your bike when riding crosscountry or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain on you and your bike caused by mechanical shocks.
13. The suspension fork Generally speaking, the fork should deflect by about 10 to 25 % of its total travel when you sit on the bike. If this is not the case, you have to change the initial spring tension or the air pressure. Ride your bike on different kinds of surface and have a look afterwards how much of the fork’s travel was used. If the cable binder has only moved a few millimetres, your fork is in too rigid adjustment or has too much pressure in it.
13. The suspension fork 13.2 Suspension fork maintenance Suspension forks are quite intricately designed and require a considerable amount of maintenance and care. Therefore, almost all suspension fork manufacturers have established service centers where customers can have their forks thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals.
14. The suspension seat post Suspension seat post 14.1 Adjustment Suspension seat posts enhance the cyclist’s comfort when riding on uneven ground. They can be used on roads and field tracks as well as for cross-country cycling. However, suspension seat posts are not suitable for dirt biking, dual slalom and downhill riding etc. To increase the initial spring tension you first have to remove the seat post from the frame.
14. The suspension seat post 14.2 Check and maintenance Manufacturers recommend servicing the seat post after about 60 operating hours. Ask your local MERIDA dealer to do this lubrication work. To check the seat post for side-to-side play, take hold of the saddle at both ends and try to move it from side to side. Keep in mind the minimum insertion depth! Never ride your bike with the seat post drawn out beyond the limit, maximum or stop mark!.
15. The rear shock Full suspension (rear shock absorption) 15.01 Notes on the sitting position Full suspension bikes are equipped not only with a suspension fork but also with movable rear stays which are sprung and shockdamped by a shock absorber. Shock absorption is afforded by a steel or air spring, and damping usually by oil. Full-suspension bikes yield a little when you sit on the saddle (sag).
15. The rear shock 15.02 Application and intended use The MERIDA full-suspension models are designed for different application areas. Permissible total weight for all suspension bikes: bike 120 kg (rider and baggage together). Ninety Six – for fastest forward movement in cross-country races. Designed to provide a maximum of weight saving with compromises, however, in view of stability, durability and load capacity.
15. The rear shock One five O – Enduro usage, for demanding, fast downhill rides with good handling in extreme (paded) terrain and yet good uphill features. The One five O models can also be used for rides, also referred to as free riding. They are, however, not suitable for large drops, downhill races or dual slalom and trick rides. Please keep in mind that though looking easy the tricks of a professional actually require a lot of training and experience.
15.1 General notes on the adjustment of the frame General notes on the adjustment of the frame Your dealer should have adjusted your bike already prior to delivery, i.e. the spring should have been selected or the air pressure adjusted, according to the frame size and the anticipated weight of the rider. The spring characteristics of the rear shock have to be adapted to the rider’s weight and posture.
15.2 Adjusting the rear shock absorber 15.2.1 Adjusting the shock absorbers Find yourself a level area where you can sit on your bike while leaning onto something. A handrail within reach or a helper who can keep you from falling over would be ideal. Make sure you have adjusted the saddle to your desired seating position and check the tire pressure.
15.2 Adjusting the rear shock absorber Gently get off your bike again. Measure the distance the O-ring has moved on the piston rod. For cross country / all mountain use, the O-ring should have moved by 20 to 25 % of the total travel of the damper; otherwise there is a risk of bottoming out, resulting in a damage of the frame.
15.2 Adjusting the rear shock absorber Unscrew and remove the black dirt cap from the rear shock and screw the rear shock pump onto the valve. Air and oil may escape under high pressure, when unscrewing the valve cap and at the moment of screwing and unscrewing the pump. Make sure not to get dirty and to keep the braking surfaces clean. If you want to reduce the pressure to get a longer sag, screw on the special rear shock pump and let a little air escape via the bleed valve.
15.2 Adjusting the rear shock absorber 15.2.2 Adjusting the damping Rebound damping can be adjusted by simply turning the red handwheel at the upper end of the rear shock. The handwheel enables you to modify the valve sections in the oil bath and hence the oil flow rate and volume. Start with the rebound damping value entirely open and increase it in small increments.
15.3 Checks, care and maintenance of the rear shock Checks, care and maintenance of the MERIDA rear shock 15.3.1 Care Generally, all the rear frame needs in terms of care is a thorough cleaning around the rear shock, the moving rear stays and the area around the bearings. Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Make sure from time to time to also clean the engaging surfaces of the rear shock from dust and dirt with a soft rag.
15.3 Checks, care and maintenance of the rear shock To check the rear shock for vertical play, place the rear wheel gently on the ground and lift it again a little. Check for any rattling. If you find any play, ask your MERIDA dealer to eliminate it without delay. With all MERIDA suspension bikes, the swing arm is equipped with sealed bearings at its lower end which are largely maintenancefree. Check with a torque wrench whether the bolted-on bearing components and the rear shock bases are firmly seated.
15.3 Checks, care and maintenance of the rear shock The rate of wear increases when components are subject to heavy soiling or put to use in extreme weather conditions. Mechanical stress such as from crashes or lateral forces exerted by baggage, increases the rear shock’s rate of wear. Make sure, therefore, not to rest pannier bags on the rear shock. After a fall or crash check the rear shock for damage. In case of doubt ask your MERIDA dealer for advice.
16. The pedals Pedal systems Not all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used for cycling should have a stiff sole and provide a firm support for your feet. If the soles are too soft, the pedals can press through and cause foot pain. Moreover, soft soles make for poor power transmission. The sole should not be too broad near the heels, as the rear stays will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling. This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural position and may cause knee pain in the long run.
16. The pedals 16.2 Adjustment and maintenance If there is a clicking noise, apply a little MOTOREX spray oil to the area around the bearings and shock bases. Current pedal systems can show considerable differences in design. Be sure to thoroughly read the operating instructions of the pedal and shoe manufacturers. Your MERIDA dealer will be pleased to help you, if you should have any questions.
17. The lighting set The lighting set Anyone cycling on public roads is required by law to have a properly working lighting set (see chapter 6. “Legal requirements for riding on public roads“). It is important to be familiar with the design of the lighting set so that you can repair it yourself in the event of a failure.
17. The lighting set 17.2 Troubleshooting 17.3 Adjusting the front light First inspect the light bulbs of the front and rear light. Check whether the filaments are intact. Bulbs with a black tint are a sure indication of a defect. The centre of the light beam from the front light should hit the ground no further than 10 metres ahead of the bike. To correct the orientation of the light beam, release the fastening bolt and adjust the light as required. Tighten the bolts again.
18. Dirt bikes – special features Special features of dirt bikes Dirt bikes are designed for hard use, such as freeride, dirt, street or dual slalom. You may also do jumps with these bikes. However, do not overestimate your riding capacities when jumping or riding downhill. Although these bikes are strong and durable, there are limits which depend on the rider, his riding technique as well as the ground he is riding on and the obstacles.
19. Kids‘ bikes 19.1 What parents must bear in mind Children are among the most vulnerable road user groups - not only because of their lack of experience and practise, but also for the simple reason that they are smaller and may therefore have difficulties overseeing things and be easily overlooked. If you want your child to use his/her bike on the road, you should be willing to invest time in road safety instruction and help him/her improve his/her riding skills.
19. Kids‘ bikes 19.2 Notes on BMX bikes 19.3 Adjustment of kids‘ bikes BMX bikes are designed to be used purely as sports equipment and therefore, due to their geometry and transmission, only suitable to a limited extend to be used as kids’ bikes. However, they are sometimes used as kids’ bikes due to the small frame, the popularity of the BMX bicycling as a sport and the children’s urging. Adjusting the bike to the bodily proportions of a child is even more important than in the case of an adult.
19. Kids‘ bikes During both tests the child’s pelvis should of course rest horizontally on the saddle. As a final check, see whether the child can still reach the ground with both feet at the same time when sitting on the saddle. If this is not the case, lower the saddle a little. For more information on how to adjust the height of the saddle see chapter 8. ”Adjusting the bike to the rider”.
19. Kids‘ bikes Get into the habit of doing the checks given in chapter 4. “Before every ride” together with your child. In this way, the child will learn to handle the bike properly and you will be able to detect any defects that have developed during use. Encourage your child to tell you, if anything should not be working properly on his or her bike. Rectify the fault immediately or hand the bike in for repair, if you are in doubt. Children can be vain.
20. Helmets, accessories 20.1 Helmets 20.2 Accessories Cycling helmets are a must in today’s road traffic. Your MERIDA dealer keeps a large range of helmets of different sizes for sale. There are all sorts of accessories on the market that are intended to increase your pleasure in cycling. There are electronic speedometers that show your current and average speed, your daily and annual mileage as well as the duration of the present ride.
21. Baggage Transporting baggage Make sure the weight of your baggage is favourably distributed when loading your bike. Heavy items should be carried as close to the ground as possible. Handlebar bags and bags mounted to the top of the carrier are only suited for lightweight objects. There are various ways of carrying baggage on a bike. Your choice will primarily depend on the weight and volume of the baggage and on the bike you want to use.
22. Taking children with you The only possible and legal way of transporting children by bike is in special child carriers or trailers. The fastenings of child carriers are usually designed for intermittent use so that the carrier can be fastened to any bike that is equipped with the necessary fittings. Child carriers have a strong influence on the bike’s riding characteristics. The weight of both carrier and child will make the bike somewhat top-heavy and tend to give you a wobbly ride.
22. Taking children with you 22.2 Child trailers Special child trailers to be drawn behind a bike, are usually designed to accommodate up to two children. Children can play in the trailer without any danger of toys falling out. Some models provide the option of mounting a sunshade or rain shield. Trailers mainly affect the braking response of your bike, while other performance aspects remain largely unchanged. One drawback is that child trailers occupy far more width than the bike would alone.
23. Transport by car Taking the bike by car When you intend to travel with your bike mounted outside your car, inform yourself about the regulations regarding bike transport in the transit countries. There are different regulations e.g. with regard to the marking. Transporting the bike by car is very easy. There is hardly any car accessories dealer or car company that does not offer bike carrier systems. These save the user from having to disassemble the bike for transport.
24. Cleaning and caring Your MERIDA dealer will have assembled and adjusted your bike ready for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, you should service it regularly. Have your local MERIDA dealer do the scheduled maintenance work This is the only way to ensure that all its components function safely and reliably and that you can use it safely and with joy for many years. A much more gentle way of cleaning your bike is with a soft water jet or with a bucket of water and a sponge or large brush, e.
25. Storing the bike Sheltering and storing the bike If you regularly look after your bike during the season, you will not need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing it against theft. It is advisable to store the bike in a dry and airy place. There are some things to bear in mind when putting the bike away for the winter: Inflated tubes tend to gradually lose air when the bike is not used for a long time.
26. Service and maintenance schedule The bike will be due for its first maintenance after 100 to 300 kilometres or 3 to 6 weeks. The running-in phase typically involves spokes losing tension, cables lengthening, gears becoming maladjusted, and bearings running in, so there is every reason to have your dealer service the bike at this stage. This maturing process is unavoidable. Therefore make an appointment with your MERIDA dealer for a first inspection of your new bike.
26.
27. Assembling and equipping a MERIDA frame All components (except for carbon seat posts and stems for carbon forks) have to be mounted to the frame with high-grade grease to inhibit corrosion. Omission of the grease may make future disassembly problematic or impossible. Road racing frame sets often include matching (carbon) forks. Observe the fork manufacturer’s instructions for mounting carbon fork tubes. When assembling a carbon frame, be sure to read chapter 28.
27. Assembling and equipping a MERIDA frame Name/ Type Category MATTS MATTS TFS XC MATTS TFS TRAIL MATTS HFS XC MATTS HFS TRAIL CARBON FLX JULIET NINETY-SIX MISSION TRANS-MISSION ONE-FIVE-O CROSSWAY CROSSWAY LADY CROSSWAY TFS CROSSWAY TFS LADY FREEWAY FREEWAY LADY CITY SPEEDER SPEEDER LADY S-PRESSO S-PRESSO LADY CYCLOCROSS WARP ROAD RACE/RIDE SCULTURA FLX SCULTURA EVO FLX Child carrier Trailer Max.
28. Special characteristics of carbon 28.1 Carbon - special characteristics As is the case with all products made of carbon composites, also referred to as CFK, with MERIDA frames, some particularities have to be paid attention to, as well. Carbon is extremely strong and durable with very low weight, making it perfect for the production of high-performance parts.
28. Special characteristics of carbon 28.1.1 General notes on care 28.1.2 Protection of the frame finish Clean the carbon components with water and a soft cloth. If necessary, also use a mild soap. Only use petroleum based solvents for cleaning tough stains of oil or grease. Do not use degreasing agents containing MEK, acetone, trichloroethylene, methylene, chloride, etc., solvents, non-neutral or chemical detergents or detergents containing solvents, as they may damage the carbon structure.
28. Special characteristics of carbon 28.1.3 What to bear in mind when braking with carbon wheels There are some special features with carbon braking surfaces. The brake surfaces of carbon rims are sensitive to high temperatures. Therefore, when you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill, for example with a permanently activated rear wheel brake, may heat up the material and thus lead to a deformation.
28.2 MERIDA framesets MERIDA framesets 28.2.1 Determining the correct frame size Please find the correct frame size in the “frame geometry” chart in the MERIDA catalogue. 28.2.2 Before your first ride Road bike frames Carriers must not be mounted on any of our road bike carbon frames. Furthermore, it is not permitted to mount trailers and child carriers! Before setting off on your bike for the first time, please be sure to read chapter 3. “Before your first ride”.
28.2 MERIDA framesets 28.2.3 Assembling and equipping a MERIDA frame MERIDA frames are also delivered bare for individual assembly. Please note that assembling a bike is a job for a skilled mechanic. Mistakes or inappropriate assembly may make the bike unsafe. We therefore strongly recommend that your MERIDA dealer carries out all assembly work. Frames are delivered ready for mounting, i.e. with threads cut and bearing seats and seat tube faced. Further finishing work is normally not necessary.
28.2 MERIDA framesets Do not clamp the frame to the workstand by the frame tubes! This can damage the thin-walled carbon tubes. First mount a sturdy aluminium seat post to the frame. Clamp only this seat post in the workstand to secure the frameset. More suitable workstands are available in specialist shops. They fix the frame at three points inside the front triangle or only hold the fork ends and the bottom bracket shell.
28.2 MERIDA framesets 28.2.4 Headset bearing Every carbon frame set is delivered with a semi-integrated headset that is already fitted. The included flat bearing shells made of aluminium must be mounted with specific tools. Be sure to read the operating instructions for carbon forks in chapter 28.3 “Carbon forks”, before doing any work at the fork. 28.2.5 Bottom bracket bearings All MTB frames: BSA thread: 1.370”x 24 TPI, (left handed thread on right side). The width of the shell is 73 ± 0.5 mm.
28.2 MERIDA framesets 28.2.7 Rear drop-out spacing 28.2.9 Front derailleur hanger Road bike frames: 130 ± 0.5 mm. (cross, speed and cyclo frames as well) MTB, trekking frames: 135 ± 0.5 mm. MERIDA carbon road frames are suitable only for the mounting of a Campagnolo or Shimano derailleur with an inside clamping diameter of 34.9 mm. 28.2.8 Replaceable derailleur hanger Secure the bolts with a medium/strong, nonpermanent threadlocker and use a torque of 2-3 Nm.
28.2 MERIDA framesets Seat post binder Every MERIDA carbon frame includes a special seat post binder to achieve an optimum clamping power. Only use the included model. 28.2.10 Permitted torques for seat post binder with Allen bolt Use a torque of 6-8 Nm to clamp the seat post. Do not exceed a maximum torque of 8 Nm! Ask your MERIDA dealer as to the mounting of suitable seat post binders. Check whether frame and seat post diameters match before mounting. 28.2.11 Bottle cage Use a torque of 2-3 Nm.
28.2 MERIDA framesets Tighten carefully by approaching the maximum permissible torque in small steps. Check, how securely the component is fastened, as described in chapter 29. “Recommended torques of bolted connections” or prescribed in the manuals of the component manufacturers. For your own safety adhere to the service intervals given in this MERIDA manual. We recommend, however, having your MERIDA dealer do the maintenance work.
28.3 Carbon forks Carbon forks 28.3.2 Adjusting the headset 28.3.1 Before your first ride Before you start to adjust the headset, make sure to read chapter 12. “The headset” and the operating instructions of the headset manufacturer. Road bike forks are exclusively made for road and triathlon use. The forks are just as unsuitable for riding on unpaved roads, over rough terrain and jumping etc. as they are for riding with heavy baggage or towing a trailer.
28.3 Carbon forks 28.3.3 Mounting the full carbon fork with carbon steerer Cutting the steerer tube, pressing the seat mounting of the cone bearing and mounting the fork to the frame, are jobs best left to an expert. These steps are to be carried out by authorized MERIDA dealers only. Otherwise the warranty will become void. • The inner diameter of the headset crown race must fit the diameter of the crown of the carbon fork. With 1 1/8”- forks, the steerer crown race diameter is 30 ± 0.05mm.
28.3 Carbon forks To increase the clamping area, place a burr-free 5-mm-spacer above the stem. Make sure the clamping area of the sleeve and all spacers are free of burrs. Seal the cut with two-component-adhesive (epoxy resin) clear varnish or with instant adhesive. • Only use stems with symmetric outside clamps, i.e. clamping should be provided around the entire circumference. Stems with asymmetric clamping and segment clamping may damage the steerer tube and must not be used.
28.3 Carbon forks • Carbon steerer tubes are usually fabricated in a highly precise way. For this reason, the stem normally fits snugly on the fork. Do not mount any stems which have play when put on the steerer tube. • Do not grease the steerer tube in the clamping area of the stem! • If you have strictly followed the above, you will not need high torques for the clamping bolts. With regard to the necessary torques, see chapter 29. “Recommended torques for bolted connections”.
28.4 Carbon handlebars and stems Carbon handlebars and stems Note that the instructions may require further explanation, depending on the experience and/or skill of the person doing the work and some jobs might only be possible with additional, special-purpose tools (e.g. a torque wrench) or supplementary instructions. 28.4.1 Before your first ride • Carbon road handlebars and stems are only designed for being used with road race and triathlon bikes and their intended use.
28.4 Carbon handlebars and stems If you prefer to use parts from another manufacturer, please check with the dealer and ensure that its design and dimensions make it suitable for direct attachment to carbon components. In this case, please follow the mounting instructions and warning notes of the stem manufacturer, as well. 2. Before the mounting, make sure both clamping areas of the stem are free of sharp edges and burrs. Do not use, but replace the stem in this case.
28.4 Carbon handlebars and stems 5. Screw in the bolts which have a greased thread and head by a few turns with your fingers. Screw in all bolts by hand until they are snug. The clamping slot between stem cap and stem body must be even with the same gap at either end. 6. Tighten the bolts of both clamping areas alternately and gradually with a torque wrench until you reach the lower limit of the recommended torque. In the case of stems with a 4-bolt front clamp, tighten the bolts diagonally.
28.4 Carbon handlebars and stems Technical data 7. Check shift/brake levers for burrs and sharp edges in the clamping areas. Remove the clamping bands completely from the road handlebar levers before sliding them onto the handlebar. Mountain bike Handlebar: Clamping area (sleeve): Standard: 25.4 mm Oversized: 31.8 mm To prevent scratches in the carbon, never make rotational movements when fitting the levers.
28.5 Carbon seat post 28.5.2 Adjusting the correct saddle height Carbon seat post 28.5.1 Before your first ride • Carbon seat posts are only designed for being used on road and triathlon bikes as well as on cross country and marathon mountain bikes and their intended use. Carbon seat posts are not designed for extreme situations, such as free-riding, dual slalom, downhill, drops and such like. Release the bolts of the seat tube clamp by two to three turns.
28.5 Carbon seat post When the saddle is in the perfect position, tighten the bolt or the seat tube binder bolt gradually in half-turn increments, while checking whether the seat post is sufficiently tight after each half-turn. For this purpose, take hold of the saddle at both ends and try to turn it. If it does not move, the seat post is firmly seated. Do not overtighten the bolt or the seat post binder bolt. Overtightening may cause a seat post failure, resulting in a crash and injury of the rider. 28.5.
28.5 Carbon seat post 28.5.4 Mounting the carbon seat post 28.5.5 Mounting the saddle Make sure your new carbon seat post matches the inside diameter of the seat tube of the frame. The seat post must fit easily, without pushing or twisting, and free of play into the frame. A mismatch between frame and seat post can cause failure of the seat post. Carbon seat posts are usually designed to be combined with most sports saddles with a saddle rail diameter of 7 mm.
29. Recommended torques for bolted connections All bolted connections of the components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe operation of the bike. This is best done with a torque wrench that switches off as soon as the desired torque has been reached. Where no maximum torque is prescribed, tighten the bolts carefully in steps by checking in-between the seating of the component as described in the relevant chapters.
29. Recommended torques for bolted connections 29.1 Recommended torque settings: Campagnolo /Shimano /Avid /SRAM components Component Bolted connection Campagnolo* Nm Nm Rear gear changer Fastening bolt 15 (rear derailleur) Cable fixing bolt 6 Chain roller bolt 3 Front derailleur Fastening bolt 3.
29. Recommended torques for bolted connections 29.2 Recommended torque settings: FSA components Model no.
29. Recommended torques for bolted connections 29.
30. Warranty and guarantee 30.1 Introduction Your MERIDA bike was manufactured with care and delivered to you by your MERIDA dealer fully mounted. As direct purchaser, you have full warranty rights within the first two years (EU countries) after purchase. Please contact your MERIDA dealer in the event of defects. To smoothly handle your claim, it is necessary that you present your receipt and the delivery receipt. Therefore, please keep these documents in a safe place.
30. Warranty and guarantee 30.2 A note on wear Some components of your bike are subject to wear due to their function. The rate of wear depends on care and maintenance as well as on the way you use your bike (kilometres travelled, rides in the rain, dirt, salt etc.). Bikes that are often left standing in the open may also be subject to increased wear through influence of weather. These components require regular care and maintenance.
30. Warranty and guarantee 30.3 Guarantee on MERIDA bikes Your MERIDA bike is guaranteed (as of date of purchase to the initial buyer) for – 5 years against rupture of all aluminium and steel frames. – 5 years against rupture of all carbon frames. In a guarantee-activating event, MERIDA reserves the right to provide a bike of the current successor model in an available colour or, if no such bike is available, a higher grade model.
Imprint MERIDA Industry CO.; LTD P. O. Box 56 Yuanlim Taiwan R. O. C. Phone: +886-4-8526171 Fax: +886-4-8527881 www.merida.com bicycle@merida.com.tw MCG MERIDA & CENTURION Germany GmbH Blumenstr. 49-51 71106 Magstadt Phone: 07159/9459-30 www.merida.com www.centurion.de In case of any inquiries, ask your national distributor; visit www.merida.com to find his address.
MERIDA Industry CO.; LTD P. O. Box 56 Yuanlim Taiwan R. O. C. Phone: +886-4-8526171 Fax: +886-4-8527881 www.merida.com bicycle@merida.com.tw MCG MERIDA & CENTURION Germany GmbH Blumenstr. 49-51 71106 Magstadt Phone: 07159/9459-30 www.merida.com www.centurion.de Dealer-stamp Sail + Surf GmbH Bundesstr. 55 4822 Bad Goisem Austria Phone: 06135/20633-0 Belimport Lugano Via Adamini 20 6907 Lugano Switzerland Phone: +41 0919942544 info@belimport.
