Technical information

Troubleshooting
!
WARNING
To avoid risk of electrical shock, personal injury or death; disconnect power before servicing, unless
testing requires power.
16026117 Rev. 0 March 2005
©2005 Maytag Services
2
Will Not Run
Will not start or run:
All wires are hooked up to their corresponding
terminals.
Dryer is plugged in.
Blown fuse or circuit breaker.
Door switch functional...door closed. Check for
error code 3 (See Table for code definition).
Start/Pause rotary selector dial functional.
Control Board operational.
Drive motor functional.
Check motor winding resistance: 2.88ohms
between pin #3 and 4, 3.5ohms between pin #4
and 5.
Motor runs/ tumbler will not turn:
Belt off or broken/damaged.
Idler tension spring too weak or stretched.
Idler pulley jammed or stuck.
Runs a few minutes and then stops:
Lint buildup around drive motor.
Low voltage present.
Blower impeller blocked in blower
housing.
Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker:
The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One
line will be 24 amps and the other line will be 21
amps. The neutral line will be at 3 amps. If the
above amperages are present, then the house
wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be
suspect.
Shorted heating element to housing.
Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground.
Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
Gas Models
During ignition the dryer will draw X amps. With the
burner ON, the dryer will draw X amps. If the dryer is
drawing amperages above this, then the house wiring,
fuse box or circuit breaker is suspected to be at fault.
Igniter harness loose and shorted to base.
Incorrect wiring or wire shorted to ground.
Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
Will Not Dry
Will not heat (motor runs):
Open heating element.
Hi-Limit trips easily or is open.
Regulating thermostat trips easily or is open.
Membrane switch open.
Check Thermistor.
Will Not Dry Gas Models
Poor Gas Ignition
When the dryer is operated on a heat setting, the igniter
should be energized and burner shall fire within 45
seconds at 120 VAC. The failure of a component in this
system will usually be indicated by one of three
symptoms:
The igniter does not glow. If the igniter does not heat
up, remove power and using an ohmmeter, check the
following:
Open flame sensor
• Open igniter
Shorted booster coil
• Open wiring
Bad motor switch (Neutral supply)
No power from control (L1 supply)
Igniter glows - No gas ignition. If the igniter heats up
but the main burner flame is not ignited, remove power
and using an ohmmeter, check the following:
Open secondary coil
Open holding coil
Open wire harness
Stuck flame sensor (Stuck closed)
The gas is ignited but the flame goes out. If a normal
ignition takes place and after a short while the flame
goes out, check for the following:
Radiant sensor contacts opening
prematurely.
Weak gas valve coil may open when
stressed by higher temperatures.
• Weak Hi-Limit
• Poor venting
Bad drum seals
Improper drying/clothes wrinkled/ rough texture/long
dry time:
Lint filter is not clean.
Restriction in exhaust.
Outside exhaust hood damper door stuck
closed.
Exhaust too long, too many elbows, flex
ductwork installed.
Poor intake air available for the dryer.
Incorrect tumbler speed. Tumbler belt slipping.
Blower impeller bound; check for foreign
material in blower area.
Customer overloading dryer.
Check clothing labels for fabric content and
cycle selected.
Clothes too wet due to insufficient spin out by
washer.