Installation Guide
STAINING:
1. Put on gloves and prepare your materials.
2. Stir stain thoroughly using smooth strokes, avoid creating bubbles
and do not shake the stain container.
3. Working in the specified order and individual section, dip the foam
brush into the stain then use the rim of the container to release
any excess. Use the foam brush to apply the stain onto the section.
Using a cloth, rub the stain into the embossed woodgrain ensuring
complete and even coverage. Stop between sections to tidy up the
perimeter with a rag and mineral spirits or acetone. Clean edges will
help define the individual components of the door.
If preferred, the subtle color variation found in wood can be
replicated by selective removal of the stain. Using a rag or cheese
cloth, gently rub the surface removing very small amounts of stain.
Apply varying levels of pressure and work in the direction of the
grain. Excessive pressure will remove too much stain.
4. Once the door has been completely stained, check for any drips.
While the stain is still wet, lightly brush the entire surface of the
door with a china bristle brush. Use long strokes and work in the
direction of the grain to even out color and achieve consistency.
5. Let the first stained surface dry, per the stain manufacturer’s
recommended drying time, before proceeding to the second side.
6. If you prefer a darker appearance, repeat staining steps one through
five only after first coat is completely dry. Do not sand between
staining coats.
D. Sealing or applying the top-coat
The top-coat or sealant for your door is very important and required
for weatherability. It protects the stained door from the elements
and makes the door surface washable. Be sure that the stain coating
is completely dry and then apply a high-quality, UV stabilized, clear
exterior polyurethane coating (satin or low gloss) – used for any
normal exterior wood application.
Note: We recommend that all 6 sides (front and back faces plus all
four edges) be sealed to eliminate moisture absorption. The bottom
of your door panel(s) may contain a factory installed weather-
stripping (sweep) which is sealed prior to installation. Failure to
observe this recommendation may void the warranty.
Install the dead bolt strike plate at the correct location, per the
manufacturer installation detail (Figure 22).
Caulk all four exterior corners and all around the
brick or siding in the following sequence:
caulk the sill on both latch and hinge sides from
the edge of the sill crown along the edge where
the sill and jamb or brickmould meet (Figure 24)
caulk the front sill edge where the sill
and the sub-floor meet (Figure 25)
caulk the top corners where the header and jambs meet, starting at the
weather-stripping and working to the face of the brickmould (Figure 26)
caulk the perimeter where the exterior trim meets
the brick or siding trim (Figure 27)
If the door is center-hinged or has a sidelite, caulk around the
mullions where the mullions contact the sill and header.
Some door units are supplied
with adjustable sills, and these
may be raised or lowered to form
a tight seal with the fixed sweep
on the bottom of the door. This
adjustment requires a screwdriver
with appropriate screw bit. To
increase the height of the sill,
turn screws evenly along the sill
cap. Refer to the “Steps to test
threshold seal”. (Figure 28).
Score shims with a utility knife
and snap the shims along the
score. Trim any excess with the
utility knife. Insulate around the
top and sides of the door unit
in the cavity between the jamb
and the wall studs with fiberglass
blanket insulation (Figure 23).
Install the interior and/or exterior
trim around the door.
Critical Point: The use of expandable type foam is
not recommended as it may cause the door jambs to
warp; this may leave the door inoperable or push the
brickmould away from the jamb.
Steps to test threshold seal
(Figure 28)
1. Close door on a piece of paper
placed over the threshold.
2. Pull paper between the sweep
of the door and the threshold.
3. If the threshold is properly
adjusted, you should feel
some tension, but if the paper
tears, the door’s seal is too
tight. If there is no tension on
the paper, the door’s seal is
too loose.
To properly adjust the threshold seal if it is too tight.
1. Adjust sill cap by turning screws counter-clockwise evenly a 1/2 turn.
2. Repeat seal test. If paper does not slide beneath door with a feeling of
tension, repeat Step 1. Re-test seal.
3. Continue testing threshold until it is properly adjusted.
To properly adjust the threshold seal if it is too loose.
(WARNING: Do not increase height by more then 1/4")
1. Adjust sill cap by turning screws clockwise evenly a 1/2 turn.
2. Repeat seal test. If paper does not slide beneath door with a feeling of
tension, repeat Step 1. Re-test seal.
3. Continue testing threshold until it is properly adjusted.
A. How to start
Doors can be stained either hanging in the opening or removed
from the frame (recommended). Should you remove the door, take
care to protect it from damage. Sidelites will need to be finished
vertically. To remove the door from the frame, use a pin punch
and hammer. Strike the hinge pin from the bottom until it pops up
(for outswing units – hinge leaf must be removed from the door).
Drive the hinge pin as far as possible with the punch. Using a pair
of pliers, grasp the hinge pin and, while twisting, pull the pin out.
Remove all door hardware.
B. Preparing the door surface
Important: Dust, debris and other surface contaminants can
accumulate on the surface of the door. Therefore, to achieve best
results and maximum coating adhesion, wipe/clean all surfaces
of the door panel(s) and sidelite(s) thoroughly with acetone or
mineral spirits. Mask (tape) off all surfaces that will not be stained.
C. Staining the Door
Use a high quality, heavily pigmented, oil-based stain
(recommended).
Gel stains can also be used. Before starting, and occasionally
throughout the project, stir the stain until the texture is creamy.
We recommend that before starting, you try staining a small
inconspicuous area of the door to achieve the desired color.
One coat of stain is required with the recommended (per
manufacturer’s instructions) dry time needed between
sides. The stain should be applied in the following order
working on one small section of the door at a time.
FINISHING ORDER:
#1 Panels and sticking (moulding profiles)
#2 Vertical center areas (mullions)
#3 Horizontal areas (rails)
#4 Outside vertical areas (stiles)
#5 Edge of door (includes both sides
and top of door)
Factory finished door units do not require additional
field finishing. See maintenance steps for proper care.
REQUIREMENTS:
Find a well-lit staining location that is dust-free,
well ventilated and within the climate conditions
recommended by the stain/top-coat manufacturer.
You will need the following:
COATINGS AND ACCESSORIES:
Mineral spirits or acetone
One pair of rubber gloves
Lint-free rags or cheese cloth (recommended)
Stir sticks
2" wide foam brush
Masking tape
Safety razor blades
Stain
–
High-quality, opaque (non-transparent), heavily
pigmented, oil-based stain (recommended)
–
Gel stains can also be used
–
Semi-transparent stains are not recommended
High-quality, exterior grade, UV stabilized
polyurethane sealant (satin or low gloss)
2-1/2" wide china bristle brush
TOOLS:
Hammer
Pin punch
Screwdriver with arrangement of screw bits
Pliers
Safety glasses
Please read and understand the entire staining
procedure before attempting to finish the door. Be
sure to follow the stain and top-coat manufacturers
detailed application instructions on the product label.
1. Stir top coat thoroughly using smooth strokes, avoid creating
bubbles and do not shake the top coat container.
2. Do not overload the brush. Dip the end of the brush into the
coating and gently slide the flat side of the brush against the
edge of the container to remove the excess.
3. Apply with even gentle strokes. Press hard enough to flex the
bristles just a little and then pull the brush gently along the
door’s surface.
4. As you apply the sealant, pull the brush quickly along the area
two or three times lightly to even out the brush strokes.
5. Allow the first coat to dry completely (follow manufacturer’s
recommendations) and apply at least one more coat using the
same steps as above. A minimum of two coats is required for
complete protection and the door should be resealed annually
to ensure lasting protection of the finish.
6. After both sides of the door have been top-coated (twice) and
are completely dry, remove the paper and tape from the glass
and protected surfaces.
7. Clean the glass with window cleaner and remove any finishing
materials from the glass with a safety razor.
8. Replace door back into frame.
MAINTENANCE
1. In the event that the door is scratched after finishing, the
damaged area can be lightly sanded using 400-grit sandpaper
(do not over-sand the surface). Follow the staining and top-coat
procedures.
2. Dirt and watermarks can build up on the surface of your finished
door over time. Extend the life of the stain and top-coat by
cleaning the door several times a year. Clean with warm soapy
water, rinse and towel dry.
3. A minimum of two coats of top-coat are initially required for
complete protection. The door system should be resealed every
1 to 7 years depending upon weather exposure.
Factory finished door units do not require any additional field finishing.
REQUIREMENTS:
Find a well-lit finishing location that is dust-free, well ventilated
and within the climate conditions recommended by the coating
manufacturer. Recommended temperature should be between
50˚ – 90˚F degrees fahrenheit.
You will need the following:
COATINGS AND ACCESSORIES:
Mineral spirits or acetone
Soapy water (mild detergent in warm water)
One pair of rubber gloves
Stir sticks
Masking tape
Safety razor blades
220-grit sandpaper
Paint
– High-quality, oil-base or 100% acrylic
water-based latex paint of desired color
– Lacquer paints are not recommended
– 2-1/2" wide brush appropriate for type of paint (A natural
bristle brush should be used with oil-based paint and a
synthetic bristle brush should be used with latex paint.)
TOOLS:
Hammer
Pin punch
Phillips screwdriver
Pliers
Safety glasses
Air-less sprayer (optional)
NOTE: Painting instructions specifically refer to the door and
sidelite panels. Oil-based paint should not be used on wood frame
components (jambs & brickmould).
Please read and understand the entire painting procedures before
attempting to finish the door. Be sure to follow the paint manufacturer’s
detailed application instructions on the product label.
A. How to start
Doors can be painted either hanging in the opening or removed from
the frame (recommended). Should you remove the door, take care to
protect it from damage. Sidelites will need to be finished vertically.
To remove the door from the frame, use a pin punch and hammer.
Strike the hinge pin from the bottom until it pops up (for outswing &
self closing units – hinge leaf must be removed from the door). Drive
the hinge pin as far as possible with the punch. Using a pair of pliers,
grasp the hinge pin and, while twisting, pull the pin out. Remove all
door hardware.
B. Preparing the door surface
IMPORTANT: For adequate paint adhesion the door surface
must be free of dust, debris and other surface contaminants.
FINISHING ORDER:
For woodgrain textured
door finishing with brush.
#1 Panels and sticking
(moulding profiles)
#2 Vertical center areas
(mullions)
#3 Horizontal areas (rails)
#4 Outside vertical areas (stiles)
#5 Edge of door (includes both
sides and top of door)
FINISHING WITH SPRAY APPLICATOR:
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for thinning the paint; (i.e. thin
latex paint with water or oil-based with solvent for better atomization
and spraying results). Strain paint before filling the spray pot.
The door can be painted in horizontal (recommended) or vertical
position; however, the paint should be applied in continuous strokes
extending six inches past the edges of the door. This will ensure
uniformity across the entire surface of the door. Multiple light coats
are better than one heavy coat.
Avoid runs as a result of over-spraying.
Note: We recommend that all 6 sides (front and back faces plus all
four edges) be sealed to eliminate moisture absorption. The bottom of
your door panel(s) may contain a factory installed weather-stripping
(sweep) which is sealed prior to installation. Failure to observe this
recommendation may void the warranty.
DRYING:
IMPORTANT: Let the paint dry completely, following the
manufacturer’s recommended drying time before handling the painted
surface or applying a second coat. If possible, allow the door to dry in
a horizontal position to minimize paint runs. High humidity and/or low
temperatures may extend your drying time.
Warning: Foam-filled doors painted with dark colors or with attached
storm doors, may become very hot to the touch in direct sunlight.
Do not paint the weather strip and do not close door until paint is
dry (see paint manufacturer’s specifications on minimum drying time).
To maintain product warranty: Paint the door, frame, header and
brickmould within 45 days of installation.
MAINTENANCE:
1. In the event that the door is scratched after finishing, the
damaged area can be lightly sanded using 400-grit sandpaper
(do not over-sand the surface). Follow the finishing procedures
on the inside of this brochure.
2. Dirt and watermarks can build up on the surface of your finished
door over time. Extend the life of the paint by cleaning the door a
few times a year. Clean with warm soapy water, rinse and towel dry.
3. Repainting every 1 to 7 years will be required, depending
upon weather exposure.
Warranties are available for most products. Please check with your dealer
or distributor for current warranty terms and conditions.
If it becomes apparent that there is some trouble with the operation of the
unit, the first thing to check is the installation of the unit into the rough
opening. Check to insure that 1/8" gap across the top edge of door panel
and frame holds true for the entire width of the door opening AND that
weather-stripping is evenly compressed the entire height of the door
opening. Secondly, check that the two jambs are correctly aligned with
each other and that incorrect nailing on shims have not twisted the jambs.
Check all Critical Points to confirm that unit was installed correctly in
proper rough opening.
MIC-18124
NOTE: Units intended for installation in high velocity windstorm region
requires specific grade of latching hardware.
Steel doors should be wiped clean with a solvent such as acetone or
mineral spirits. Allow the cleaning solvent to dry completely – until there
is no residual odor. Once wiped clean, the door must be lightly sanded
with a 220-grit sandpaper. After sanding, the door must be washed with
a mild detergent in warm soapy water, rinsed and then dried.
Fiberglass doors should be wiped clean with a solvent such as acetone
or mineral spirits. Allow the cleaning solvent to dry completely – until
there is no residual odor. Next, the door must be washed with a mild
detergent in warm soapy water, rinsed and then dried.
Mask (tape) off all surfaces that will not be painted including all glass.
C. Painting the Door
Use exterior, high quality, oil-based or 100% acrylic water-based
latex paint of desired color. High quality interior paint can be used
on the interior surface of the door only. Lacquer paints are not
recommended. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for paint
application by using either a brush or a handheld sprayer.
PAINTING:
Put on gloves, safety glasses, and prepare your materials. Before
starting, and occasionally throughout the project, stir the paint using
smooth strokes until the texture is creamy – avoid creating bubbles.
FINISHING WITH BRUSH APPLICATION:
Dip the brush into the paint, then use the rim of the container to release
any excess paint. Apply paint as evenly as possible while still wet.
Brush strokes should follow the grain direction of the selected area.
Start working on the panels and sticking (moulding profiles), then the
vertical center mullion, next the horizontal rails, then the vertical stiles,
and finally, the outside edges (stiles and top rail, see figure 1 for details).
Doors that are outswing or have adjustable surface mounted sweeps
will need to have the sweep removed and the bottom rail painted.
1. At the ends of the sill, apply a
bead of caulk where the cap
and jamb/mullion meet.
2. Apply the corner pad with the
thick side towards the weather-
strip and the thin side even with
the edge of the jamb/mullion.
Be sure the pad is seated in the
caulk.
Proper installation of the corner seals (Foam Pads) is critical to the
performance of your new door system. Please use these photos along
with Step #12 to make sure the corner seals are properly installed.
masonite.com
Step 8: Caulk Doorway Step 9A: Adjust Sill
Step 10: Install the Latch and Dead Bolt
Step 11: How to Stain Woodgrain Textured Fiberglass DoorsStep 6: Install Dead Bolt and Strike Plates
Step 11: How to Stain Woodgrain Textured Fiberglass Doors Step 12: Corner Seal (Foam Pad) Installation
Trouble Shooting
Warranty
Step 11: How to Paint Exterior Doors
Step 7: Insulate
FIGURE 22: Screws fasten the latch plate to the door slab.
FIGURES 24 and 25: Caulk the sill crown and the front of the sill.
FIGURE 29: The latch and dead bolt are installed per the hardware manufacturer installation detail.
FIGURES 26 and 27: Caulk the jambs and the exterior trim.
FIGURE 23: Insulate between the jambs and the wall studs all around the door.
FIGURE 28: Raise or lower the sill by adjusting the sill screws. Some sills may have covers over
the adjusting screws. These covers must be removed prior to making any adjustments.
MIC-18124-Install-Instructions.indd 2 7/13/18 11:03 AM