Installation Guide

Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the
opening. Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit
(Points A in Figure 18).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill. Shim
the top of the frame, behind the latch-side jamb (Point B in Figure 18).
Install shims until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the top of the
operating door slab and the frame header. Shim at the top of the frame,
behind the hinge-side jamb (Point C in Figure 18) to hold the door tight
in its position relative to the frame. The door should operate freely with
nothing but the shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until 2-1/2"
screws have been installed. (Points B, C, D, E & F in Figure 17).
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this, check that
the weather-stripping on the latch side is evenly compressed
along the entire height of the door slab, without any pinching or
gaps (Figures 8 and 9).
Once there is an even 1/8” gap across the top of the door slab and the
weather-stripping is evenly compressed along the height of the door
slab, proceed with the installation.
Shim at points D, E and F on the perimeter of the frame (Figure 18), until
there is an even 1/8” gap on both sides of the operating door slab.
Drive the 2-1/2” installation screws, three on each exterior jamb of a
fixed panel, through the exterior (stop) section part of the jamb, through
the shims and into the studs. Note: If the door is factory-finished use
the “Factory-Finished Door System” information for fastening through
exterior jambs.
For units with two non-operable panels: Typically long security screws
are used to install the dead bolt strike plate (Step 6).
Required Tools & Materials
safety glass gloves 24” to 48”
construction level
claw hammer measuring tape 24” framing square
caulking gun power screw gun with
arrangement of screw
bits
screw driver
with arrangement of
screw bits
2 tubes of paint grade
exterior caulk
(latex, silicone or butyl)
wedge shaped
shims
fiberglass insulation
or low pressure
window and door
installation foam
corner seals 2-1/2” wood screws finish nails suitable for
attaching interior and
exterior trim
Ensure that the following conditions are met:
 Clean, clear work area
 The rough opening (RO) is ideally 3/4" wider and 1/2" taller
than the outside frame dimensions of the door unit. Units
intended for installation in hurricane prone regions require
less clearance between unit and RO (1/4" sides & top).
 The RO is plumb, square and level
 The old door frame has been completely removed in retro-fit installation
 When replacing existing door units, ensure products are
properly disposed and recycled in safe manner.
If disturbing existing paint, take proper precautions if lead paint is
suspected (commonly used before 1979). For proper management
of lead paint, see www.epa.gov/lead.
 The sub-floor area is clean, dry and level
 The existing sub-floor area is at least 6" deep for 4-9/16"
frames and at least 8" deep for 6-9/16" frames.
 Apply flashing in a manner to prevent entry of water into the wall
cavity in accordance with flashing manufacturer’s instructions.
Because a solid, level sub-floor is absolutely essential for proper
door unit installation, do not proceed with the installation until the
sub-floor is both solid and level.
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the
opening. Shim tightly at the bottom corners of the door unit
(Points A in Figure 10).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tight against the sill.
Shim the top of the door on the latch side (Point B in Figure 10).
Install shims until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the top of
the door slab and the frame header.
Shim the hinge-side of the frame (Point C in Figure 10). This will
hold the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door
should operate freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until
2-1/2" screws have been installed. (Points D, E, F & G in Figure 10).
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the
frame is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this
check that the weather-stripping on the latch side is evenly
compressed along the entire height of the door slab without
any pinching or gaps (see Figures 8 and 9).
B
F
G
G
F
A
C
E
E
D
A
X
Critical Point: Although all steps are critical, this symbol
identifies procedures requiring extra attention.
Check Your Work: This symbol identifies when the work should
be checked for correctness before continuing with installation.
PLEASE NOTE: Failure to install this unit in accordance with architect,
design professional or product manufacturers instructions will have
a direct effect on the units performance and/or long term wear.
Installer shall be experienced in performing work required and shall
be specialized in installation work similar to that required for this
project. Warranty claims are subject to site inspections by a qualified
manufacturer’s representation to establish probable cause and
proposed corrective action.
Step 1: Prepare Rough Opening Step 3: Prepare Door Unit Step 4: Place Door in Rough Opening Step 4: Place Door in Rough Opening
Step 2: Caulk the Sub-Floor
FIGURE 1: A clean, level, solid sub-floor area is essential to successful installation.
FIGURE 5: Place the sill in the opening first and then tilt the door up into the opening.
Figures 8 and 9: The weather-stripping on these doors is not evenly compressed.
FIGURE 3: Some door units will be supplied with plastic covers over the bottoms
of the jambs. These must be removed before installation.
FIGURES 6 and 7: The exterior trim (brickmould) rests up against exterior
sheathing or slides into the opening of exterior brick.
FIGURE 4: Some door units may be supplied with a “clip” or “plug” holding the panel aligned and
closed during the initial installation steps. Do not remove at this time. Some door units may be supplied
with a double headed nail or screw holding panel closed – this needs to be removed at this time.
FIGURE 2: Caulk is applied in three parallel lines running the width of the sill.
FIGURE 13: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
FIGURE 14: Correct sagging until the flush bolt
slides freely into the pre-drilled hole (not
typical of most units) in the head/threshold.
FIGURE 10: Install the shims in the correct locations and in the correct sequence.
FIGURE 11: Proper position of shims at the bottom of the door (Points A).
FIGURE 12: Shims are placed above and below
the dead bolt hole (points G in figure 10).
Remove all packaging materials such as nails, staples and screws.
Stand on the outside of the doorway. With the exterior side of the door unit
facing you, tilt the door unit toward you (Figure 5). The brickmould (not
supplied with all units) should rest up against the siding of the exterior wall
(Figure 6) and should slide into the RO of a brick home (Figure 7).
If door unit is supplied without a clip or plug holding
door aligned and closed, do not leave the door wide
open during installation. The weight of the door may
cause it to fall and cause injury.
Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Step 5B: For double doors with concealed top and bottom flush bolts
Stand on the inside of the door and center the door in the opening.
Shim tightly at the bottom of the unit (Points A in Figure 13).
This will keep the door centered and the frame tightagainst the sill. Shim the
top of the frame (at Points B in Figure 13). Install shims until there is a
1/8 "
gap between the topof the door slabs and the frame header. This will hold
the door tight in its position relative to the frame. The door should operate
freely with nothing but shims holding it in place.
CAUTION: Do not open door panel greater than 30-degrees until 2-1/2"
screws have been installed. (Points C, D, E & F in Figure 13).
Door panels with glass inserts may sag toward the center. This is normal. To
correct sagging, align the flush bolts on the fixed door with clearance in the
header and sill. Most units do not have pre-drilled holes in the header and
sill. Holes must be drilled. Slide top flush bolt up against header and bottom
bolt down against threshold to mark. Mark where bolts make contact with
header and sill with pencil. Drill holes on marks to receive bolts (1-1/2" deep
minimum). Once holes are drilled, close panel and engage bolts making sure
they extend far enough to secure unit.
Step 5A: For single doors
Step 5: Shim and Fasten
For all door types, it is essential that the frame is in a
straight vertical plane and is not twisted. Check alignment
using this method: Stand on the outside of the door.
Check that the weather-stripping on the latch side is
evenly compressed along the entire height of the door
slab without any pinching or gaps (Figures 8 and 9).
DO NOT utilize the wall to square and level unit. Unit must be
square and level to insure proper operation and performance.
Instructions vary according to door type. Confirm which door type is
being installed. Some door styles not available in all markets.
For single door unit, use Step 5A. For double door unit, use Step 5B.
For single door unit with one or two sidelites, use Step 5C.
INFORMATION PANEL
How to Plumb the Door
How to Fasten the Door
After shimming, the door is fastened to the studs by installing screws
through the jambs, shims and into the stud.
Screws located in hinge or strike position shall be placed in the
thin (rabbet) section of frame, other screws shall be placed in
thick (stop) section of frame. Wide frames should be attached
with a screw in both sections of the frame to minimize rotation.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move
or twist when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, thus
maintaining the 1/8
“ gap between the edge of door panel and
frame. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim
tighter to maintain the 1/8” gap, then retighten the screws.
Step 5: Shim and Fasten
Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points F in Figure 10) approximately
8" from the top and bottom of the frame. Install shims until there is
an even 1/8" gap between the jamb and the edge of the door slab
along the door. Shim behind the latch-side jamb (Points G in Figure
10) just above and below the dead bolt hole, maintaining the 1/8" gap
(Figure 12). Screw 2-1/2" installation screws through the jamb and
shims into the stud.
Proceed to Step 6.
When the shims are
properly installed, the
frame should not move
or twist at all when the
screws are tightened and
counter-sunk thereby
maintaining the 1/8" gap.
If there is any movement,
loosen the screws and
shim tighter to maintain
the 1/8" gap, then
re-tighten the screws.
Ensure that there is an even gap across the top of the door slab.
With the door closed and from the inside shim directly behind the
vacant hinge screw hole in each hinge (Points D and E in Figure
10) until there is a consistent 1/8" gap between the hinge-side jamb
and the door slab edge along the entire height of the door. Gap
between the latch-side jamb and the door slab edge should be
1/8" at the top and bottom of the door only. Drive one of the 2-1/2"
screws supplied through the vacant hole in each hinge, through the
jamb, shims and into the stud or rough buck (Figure 11).
Some dwelling designs/conditions may require special installation steps, consult your
architect, design professional and/or product manufacturer for additional guidance.
Variations in threshold design may require that the caulk lines be
applied directly to the bottom of the door unit to ensure a necessary
weather-seal. Inspect the bottom of door unit to confirm it features a
flat surface before caulking the sub-floor area.
Apply three 1/4" lines of caulk along the length of the sub-floor, the
first line starting approximately 1" from the inside edge. The lines
should be about 1" apart.
Door units featuring multiple door panels or glass inserts
are heavier and more difficult to handle – do not attempt
to handle without assistance.
single door
(X for operable panel or O for non-operable panel)
A:
double door or single with one sidelite
(OX or XO for unit featuring operable panel with non-operable panel)
single with two sidelites
(OXO for unit featuring operable panel with two non-operable panels)
C:
double door
(XX for unit featuring two operable panels)
B:
B
E
F
E
A
D
C
A
B
F
XX
Step 5: Shim and Fasten Step 5: Shim and Fasten
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the latch side
of the door: The second set of supplied screws are installed through the
thin (rabbet) section of the jamb using the vacant hinge screw holes
(Figure 19). Typically long security screws are used to install the dead
bolt strike plate (Step 6).
For units with only one non-operable panel attached on the hinge side
of the door: 2-1/2" screws are installed through the thick section of the
jamb through the shim and into the stud approximately 8" from the top
and bottom of the jamb. Shim just above and below the dead bolt hole
and drive the supplied 2-1/2" installation screws through the dead bolt
strike plate (Step 6).
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move
or twist at all when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk,
thus maintaining the 1/8” gap. If there is any movement, loosen
the screws and shim tighter to maintain the 1/8” gap, then re-
tighten screws.
B
E
F
F
E
A
C
D
D
D
A
Proceed to Step 6.
FACTORY-FINISHED DOOR SYSTEM
If the inside of the jamb is not accessible, a 1/8 " holes must be drilled through the
factory-finished exterior jamb, 1/4 " deep at all points where the door system is
shimmed (three on each exterior side of a non-operable panel, Figure 20). Drive
2-1/2" installation screws, through the drilled holes in the exterior thick (stop)
section of the jamb, through the shims and into the studs (Figure 21). Some local
jurisdictions may require additional security screws through hinges and strikes.
XO
Step 5C: For door with sidelites
Remove this
portion of plug
prior to installing.
Note: Units
intended for
installation
in hurricane
prone regions
may require
additional points
of attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation
in hurricane
prone regions
may require
additional points
of attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Note: Units
intended for
installation
in hurricane
prone regions
may require
additional points
of attachment. See
local retailer for
installation sheet
supplement.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw hole in the top hinge (Point C
in Figure 13) to align the top flush bolt with the clearance hole in the
header (Figure 14). Secure with the 2-1/2” installation screw supplied,
through the hinge jamb and into the stud.
From the outside and with the door closed, ensure that the frame
is in a straight vertical plane (not twisted). To do this check that the
weather-stripping on the astragal side is evenly compressed along
the entire height of the door slab without any pinching or gaps (see
Figures 8 and 9).
Standing on the inside, shim behind each of the vacant hinge screw holes
in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door (Points E in
Figure 13) until there is a consistent 1/8" gap along the entire height of the
door between the operating door and the passive door. There should also
be a 1/8" gap between the top of each door slab and the header.
When shims are properly installed, the frame should not move or twist
when the screws are tightened and counter-sunk, this maintaining the
1/8" gap. If there is any movement, loosen the screws and shim tighter to
maintain the 1/8" gap, then retighten the screws.
Install two 2-1/2" screws along the head jamb of double door systems for
additional reinforcement. Screws should be installed above center of each
panel. (Figures 17 and 18).
Using the supplied 2-1/2" installation screws, drive a screw through the
vacant holes in both the top and bottom hinge on the operating door
(Points E in Figure 13), through the jambs and into the stud.
Shim behind the vacant hinge screw holes in each of the center
hinges (Points F in Figure 13) and secure using the supplied 2-1/2"
installation screws.
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
SIDE-HINGED DOOR UNIT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
masonite.com
Lift out the plastic filler strip with a flat head screw driver. Loosen
the Phillips screws and adjust strikers to the desired location. Tighten
Screws. Reinstall plastic strips. (Plastic strip may need trimming.)
Proceed to Step 6.
If there is a gap between the
threshold and weatherstrip block
around the foot bolt, the hole is not
deep enough (the weatherstrip block
must touch the threshold to properly
seal the unit). Shim tightly behind
the vacant hinge screw hole in the
bottom hinge (Point D in Figure 13)
until the lower flush bolt slides freely
into the clearance hole in the sill.
Secure the door by driving a 2-1/2"
installation screw supplied, through
the hinge and jamb and into the
stud. If the flush bolt does not slide
freely, loosen the screw, shim more
tightly and then tighten the screw.
FIGURE 15: The gap between the door slabs
and the head is not evenly aligned.
FIGURE 16: The gap between the door
slabs and the head is evenly aligned.
FIGURE 17: Aluminum Astragal
Strike Plate adjustment.
FIGURE 19: Install 2-1/2” screws
through the lock jamb into the shim
and stud minimum of 3 locations
FIGURE 20: Pre-finished
systems must have holes drilled
before screws are installed.
FIGURE 21: Drill holes
through the exterior jamb
on factory-finished jambs
and fill in holes with fill stick
provided in hardware bag.
FIGURE 18: Install shims in the correct location and in the correct sequence.
MIC-18124-Install-Instructions.indd 1 7/13/18 11:03 AM