Installation Guide

- Drill a hole through the roof and ceiling slightly larger than the vent pipe diameter.
Attach pipe to the top of the unit and go straight up and out the roof. Install
rain/wind cap on top of vent pipe. Total vertical distance must not exceed 60”. Roof
clearance must be at least 12”.
- Fresh air intake: The room in which the heater is located must have an air inlet not
less than .75 square feet (roughly 9” x 12” or larger).
**Note: If your situation requires a vent pipe distance of longer than 60”, a low CFM
duct booster fan may need to be employed to ensure proper venting of the unit.
- After installation is complete, open the battery compartment located at the bottom
of the unit and install two D Cell batteries. Check the door of the battery
compartment for correct battery position.
- Open the hot water on a nearby faucet. Confirm proper water flow through the
unit and out of the faucet. (You should hear a “clicking” sound from the unit-this is
the ignitor activating). Turn the water back off.
Wind/rain cap
Outlet
Water heater
Wall
45º elbow
Straight pipe 18" or less
Straight pipe 42" or less
Coupler (island 10L only)
Water heater
Outlet
Coupler (5L and 10L units)
Through Roof
12" min
Ceiling
Roof
Straight pipe
Cap
60" max
1110
- ALL jurisdictions in North America allow for Z-Vent material to be used for venting
tankless hot water heaters. The condensation of a tankless water heater is slightly
more acidic than that of a standard water heater. Z-Vent is double walled stainless
steel vent pipe made specifically for venting tankless heaters. Z-Vent is intended
for lifetime use and will never corrode or rust.
- Z-Vent material is available at most home improvement stores, and can be found
at many online retailers as well.
- SOME jurisdictions in North America allow for B-Vent to be used. B-Vent is
double walled galvanized vent pipe made for standard water heaters and stove
vent pipe. B-Vent is not lifetime material and will eventually corrode after extended
use. Before deciding what material to use, you MUST check your local building
codes to see what is allowed in your jurisdiction. If you choose to use B-Vent, you
MUST check it at least monthly for corrosion and replace vent pipes immediately if
corrosion is detected.
- Diameter of the vent pipe is 4” for 5L, 4” for 10L, and 5” for 16L units. Use the
coupler provided with your unit for installation on the 5L and 10L units. Vent pipe
attaches directly to the unit in 16L models.
- Through wall installations: Use (2) 45 degree elbows, (1) piece of straight pipe no
longer than 18” in length, one piece of straight pipe no longer than 42” in length, one
wind/rain cap and one condensation drain.
- From the outlet at the top of the water heater, attach the first 45 degree elbow with
a vent pipe coupler to secure it to the unit. Once the elbow is attached, use it as a
guide to cut a hole through the wall at a 45 degree upward angle, at a slightly larger
diameter than the outlet pipe. Install the 18” piece of straight pipe to the 45 degree
elbow and pass it through the hole in the wall. Note: If the overall thickness of your
wall exceeds 18”, the length of the first pipe can be extended up to 24”. If this is the
case, reduce the length of the second pipe to 36”. Total venting distance should not
exceed 60”.
- Attach the second 45 degree elbow on the other side of the wall, turning the angle
upward to run parallel with the wall. Install the second piece of flute pipe into the
elbow, parallel to the outside wall. Utilize galvanized steel brackets or clamps as
necessary to secure the piping. Install the rain/wind cap on top of the second piece
of exhaust pipe..
- Install a condensation drain on the portion of pipe located outside the structure.
- Through the roof installations: Use one piece of straight pipe, 60” or shorter, a
wind/rain cap and a condensation drain. Attach directly to the outlet of the unit (16L
units), or using the coupler supplied (5L and 10L units).
Drawing 05