Owner`s manual

It is rare that any of these problems occur but if they do here is some things to try.

HUM - Try a mains ground adapter if they are legal in your country. They are also called 3

pin to 2 pin adapters or "cheaters" and are available in hardware stores. There should be

one ground in your system and only one. If two or more pieces of gear have 3 pin AC

cables a ground loop can occur which will usually cause hum. The preamplifier is

probably the best grounded single piece as it is the center of your system.

HISS - With the power turned off , disconnect the input to the 250. Now turn it back on

(remember to first power up in "soft-start") and listen. Did the hiss stop? If so, then the

source of the hiss is something other than the 250. If ithe noise level is the same, then

the problem is in the 250- probably a bad 12AT7. Exchange the tube for a known good

one.

BALANCE - The two speakers sound different - It may be the CD or source and the way it

was recorded. First try a different source. Next try swapping the inputs. Power down

and swap left and right inputs. If it is the source, then the problem will "follow" the

swap. Return them to normal (L=L). Power down again and next try swapping the

speaker connections by putting the left speaker wire in the right terminals and right

wires into the left terminals. If the problem switched sides then one 250 is suspect; if

the problem stayed on the same side it is probably a damaged or fatigued speaker.

NO SOUND, NO PILOT LIGHT, TUBES DARK- Check AC Mains fuse on back panel.

Check AC power cord. Is the amp plugged into a working electrical outlet? (this has

happened to everyone at least once).

NO SOUND , PILOT LIGHT ON, TUBES LIT- Check speaker connection and input

connection (exchange with the other channel). Take a bias measurement- do all bias

test points read zero volts? If so, B+ fuse is blown. CAREFULLY INSPECT ALL

OUTPUT TUBES BEFORE REPLACING FUSE (see also "Replacing Tubes").

ONE OUTPUT TUBE WILL NOT BIAS- If the bias voltage one one tube will not adjust

at all or reads zero volts, first replace the tube. If the reading still is way off or reads

zero, turn the amplifier off. Set your multimeter to "ohms" instead of "DC volts". Now

measure the bias test point- it should read approximately 10 ohms. If it reads very high

or not at all, then the 10 ohm cathode resistor connected to the tube is burned open.This

resistor is the final safety valve in case of a shorted output tube, and prevents damage to

the rest of the amplifier should this occur. Replacing this resistor can be done by

anyone with adequate soldering skills; we recommend contacting our service

department here at the factory for specific instructions.

TROUBLESHOOTING