Installation Guide
STEP 4: APPLYING THE MORTAR AND STONE
The back of each stone should be entirely buttered with mortar to a thickness of 1/2”. The stone should be rmly worked onto the
scratch coat and slid slightly back and forth or with a slight rotating motion to set the stone. Achieve mortar squeeze out in a volume
which results in a full setting bed which covers the scratch coat completely. With the proper mortar mix, moisture content, and
scratch coat preparation, the installer will feel the mortar start to grab within a few seconds. At this point, no further movement of the
stone should be made as bonding will be broken.
TIP:
Care must be taken to avoid smearing mortar on surface of stone. Accidental smears or mortar droppings should be
removed using a whisk broom only after mortar has become crumbly.
DRY STACK/LEDGE STONE: NO GROUT LINES
If using tight t/drystack method, it is important to make sure scratch coat/backing has been covered completely by the setting
bed of mortar. This will conceal the scratch coat/backing and prevent pockets from forming behind stones that could trap water.
When installing, the backs of all these components must be noticeably damp, but free from surface water. Install all these
products with tight-tted joints. Generally, components should be placed butting each other and aligned for level and plumb.
Mortar must be tinted to match the color of the stone you are installing to help conceal the joint lines. Using a trowel, strike off
the excess mortar around the edges of the component prior to placing the next component. This will allow the next adjacent
component to t tightly. Check for level and plumb.
GROUTED STONE: FIELDSTONE AND RIVERSTONE
Place the individual stones close together, creating uniform joints between them.
Stones can be cut and shaped with nipper or hatchet to create a natural appearance.
Cut and trim as required to achieve consistent width in the mortar joints. Then trim
and t small pieces into any remaining voids. For best appearance, coat cut or broken
edges with mortar. Position cut edges away from eye level. Always use safety glasses
when cutting and trimming.
Grouting the joints should be completed only after there is sufcient cure time of the
installed stone; when mild contact will not break the bonding. Grouting may be done
with a grout bag, lling joints to the desired depth, ensuring that mortar is forced into
all voids. Grout should be “thumbprint hard” before raking the joints. This curing time
before the grout is ready will vary signicantly with temperature and humidity. Use
a wooden raking stick or pointed tool to rake the joints to the desired depth. Extra
precaution should be taken while raking so the surface of the stone is not damaged.
Clean off remaining grout debris on the stone surface with a dry, soft-bristled brush.
STEP 5: FINISHING IT OFF
Remove any unwanted mortar from stones only after mortar has become crumbly. Use a whisk broom or dry bristle brushy to
remove. Never use water, a wet brush or wire brush as staining or damage may occur.