Installation Guide

WATERPROOF WOOD
FLOORING INSTALLATION
SUITABLE TYPES OF FLOORS AND FLOOR PREPARATION
INSTALLATION
Moisture in concrete suboors can create high moisture vapor
emission levels, hydrostatic pressure, and high alkalinity levels.
This combination is highly corrosive and damaging to ooring, over
time. To avoid this, ensure that concrete suboors are constructed
according to the American Concrete Institution’s guidelines (ACI’s
302.2 Guide). To check current conditions, an RH test using in situ
Probes (ASTM F2170) is necessary. If the level of hydrostatic pressure
is over 90% RH, or will be above 90% RH during the life of the slab,
our warranty requires moisture mitigation, such as the use of a
moisture barrier, like a 6-mil poly lm or Lifeproof underlayment,
or you must use Lifeproof adhesive designed to support 95%+ RH.
There also is calcium chloride testing (ASTM F1869) but the in situ
Probe (ASTM F2170) is the preferred test. Lightweight concrete
(minimum density of 90 lbs. per cubic foot) is acceptable if installed
according to the manufacturer’s instructions and primed with
Lifeproof’s MS003 primer.
Note: New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before
installing ooring materials.
If considering Radiant heat, only Hydronic radiant heat is allowed.
The heating components must have a mínimum of 3/8” separation
from the product. System must be operational for a minimum of
two weeks prior to installation. Five days prior to installation, the
temperature should be reduced to 65⁰F (18⁰C). After installation, the
temperature can be raised gradually (5⁰F per hour) to a maximum
operation temperature of 85⁰F (29⁰C). An in-oor thermostat is
recommended to avoid overheating and a transition strip must be
used for any installation longer than 40’ in any direction. It is also
suggested to use T-Molding in doorways.
Warning: Electric heating mats that are not embedded into the
suboor are not recommended for use underneath the ooring.
Using electric heating mats that are not embedded and applied
directly underneath the ooring will void the warranty.
Square the joints by tapping the long edge with the proled
tapping block and soft-faced hammer. Next, lightly tap down on
top of the plank at the short joint with the soft-faced hammer
(Figure C). Continue this method to nish the rst row. Cut the last
piece of the row to t, and allow for the 1/2” (10mm) expansion gap.
Install as above.
• To install the second and remaining rows, cut the rst plank of the
second row to two-thirds its length or make sure there will be
at least an 8” (20.3cm) stagger between end joints. Angle the long
tongue edge of the plank into the long groove edge of the rst
plank. Drop and lock the end joints together (Figure D). Make sure
there are no gaps and, if necessary, tap along the long groove
edge using the soft-faced hammer and proled tapping block to
ensure a tight t (Figure C). Do not tap the short end into place
if the long joint is not properly engaged, as doing so can cause
damage to the tongue and groove.
Note: When starting a new row, you can use the cut piece from the
previous row (Figure E), as long as it is more than 8” (20.3cm) and the
stagger between seams still is greater than 8” (20.3cm).
The sub oor must be at, dry, and clean. Carpet staples or any/all
adhesive residue must be removed and oor must be clean to ensure
proper installation. All wooden suboors must be structurally sound
and must be installed following the American Plywood Association’s
(APA) and the manufacturer’s recommendations. If it is uncertain that
any old adhesive residue may cause issues, use Lifeproof’s MS005
Adhesive Encapsulator.
To check for atness, hammer a nail into the center of the oor. Tie
a string to the nail and push the knot against the oor. Pull the string
tight to the farthest of the room and examine the oor for any high/
lows relative to the string. Suboors must be at to 1/8” per 6’ (3mm
per 0.92 meter). Any areas in excess of the atness specication must
be sanded down or lled with an appropriate leveler.
This product can be installed over most existing oors including
wood, non-cushioned vinyl or linoleum, and ceramic/porcelain tile
if the existing ooring is intact and properly secured to the suboor.
If installing over ceramic/porcelain tile, grout lines in excess of 1/16”
(0.625) must be lled with a Portland based skim coat/oor leveler
according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Warning: This product should not be installed over carpet.
Installation over carpet will void the warranty. If an additional
underlayment beyond what is already attached to the product is
required, an Lifeproof approved underlayment should be used
(Abatec or Mititec). When installed in rooms with direct sunlight,
during the peak hours of sunlight, the use of blinds/shades or
drapes to avoid prolonged direct sunlight period is recommended.
This product is waterproof but is not a moisture barrier. The product
can withstand topical water and water penetration for us to 16 hours
without being damaged. However, water leaking over or around the
outer edges of the ooring can damage a wood suboor and breed
mold/mildew growth on suboor and walls. This is not considered a
defect in the ooring.
• Set spacers to allow an expansion gap of 1/2” (10mm) around the
perimeter of the suboor for movement or product expansion.
Do not remove the spacers until the installation is complete. The
expansion gaps should be covered by molding (Figure A).
• Measure the length of the room in inches. Divide it by the length of
the planks. If the resulting number is less than 8”, you will need to
cut your rst plank accordingly to avoid having planks that are less
than 8” on the opposite end of the room.
Note: Use saw to cut plank to size. If cutting with a jig saw, the
wood surface should be turned down. If cutting with a hand saw,
the wood surface should be face up.
• Installation should start in a left-hand corner and proceed from
the wall with the tongue facing the wall. Position the rst plank 6”
(15.2cm) from the starting wall but not up against the spacers
(Figure B). The entire row will be moved against the spacers in a
later step.
• Interlock the next plank at the end joint of the rst plank by
inserting the tongue into the groove of the adjoining planks.