Installation Guide

Standard Acrylic Units
Installation Instructions
INSTALLATION OF OPEN TOP ACRYLIC
See Figures 16, 17 and 18
1. Frame in area 58.75” x 32.75” deep. The unit will
be installed into this area and the backside of the front
anges will back up to the front stud and the back of the
unit should intersect the rear studs.
2. Ensure the unit you have is the correct hand
according to the plumbing in you installation area.
3. Place the unit into the installation area.
4. Plumb and level the unit.
5. Shim under the back leg of the unit on each end.
Secure the shims in place either by nailing them to the
construction oor or by caulking around them.
6. Secure the unit to the studs behind the front anges
and along the top back ange. Secure to the front studs
through the pre-drilled holes using screws. Drill through
the top back ange into the locations that intersect the
studs. Use a bit that is slightly larger than the screw so
as not to chip the surface. Do not drive nails through the
anges as this may chip the surface.
7. Mark the backside of the unit in the areas intended
for the plumbing connections. Drill these marks from the
backside with a small drill bit to the inside.
8. Using the small holes as pilot holes, drill from
the inside of the units with proper hole sizes for the
plumbing.
9. Make connections.
10. Water test connections.
11. Dry Walling: Dry walling the back ange is done
by using two layers of drywall. One layer will butt up
to the top of the rear ange. The next layer will overtop
and extend down to the rear ledge. Dry walling the
front of the unit is done by using two layers of drywall.
One layer is used to butt against the front ange. The
other layer will overlap over the front face of the unit.
Acrylic Bathing Units
Installation Instructions
INSTALLATION OF AN OPEN TOP ACRYLIC
See Figures 16, 17 & 18
1. Frame in area 58.75” x 32.75” deep. The unit will
be installed into this area and the backside of the front
flanges will back up to the front stud and the back of the
unit should intersect the rear studs.
2. Ensure the unit you have is the correct hand
according to the plumbing in you installation area.
3. Place the unit into the installation area.
4. Plumb and level the unit.
5. Shim under the back leg of the unit on each end.
Secure the shims in place either by nailing them to the
construction floor or by caulking around them.
6. Secure the unit to the studs behind the front flanges
and along the top back flange. Secure to the front studs
through the pre-drilled holes using screws. Drill through
the top back flange into the locations that intersect the
studs. Use a bit that is slightly larger than the screw so
as not to chip the surface. Do not drive nails through the
flanges as this may chip the surface.
7. Mark the backside of the unit in the areas intended
for the plumbing connections. Drill these marks from the
backside with a small drill bit to the inside.
8. Using the small holes as pilot holes, drill from
the inside of the units with proper hole sizes for the
plumbing.
9. Make connections.
10. Water test connections.
11. Dry Walling: Dry walling the back flange is done
by using two layers of drywall. One layer will butt up
to the top of the rear flange. The next layer will overtop
and extend down to the rear ledge. Dry walling the
front of the unit is done by using two layers of drywall.
One layer is used to butt against the front flange. The
other layer will overlap over the front face of the unit. A
“J” mold will be used to finish out the overlapping edge
of the unit. On the side walls, the dry wall will overlap
the studs and extend down to the horizontal flange.
Installation, Storage & Cleaning Guide
13
Figure 16
Installation, Storage & Cleaning Guide
13
Figure 17
Installation, Storage & Cleaning Guide
13
Figure 18
A “J” mold will be used to nish out the overlapping edge
of the unit. On the side walls, the dry wall will overlap
the studs and extend down to the horizontal ange.