· '~ The DAYLIGHT ·
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+ THE M~NVAL KOD.A:K + FOR THE C + + + DAYLIGHT = JUNE 1892. KODAK.
" CONTENTS. + + + PA R T I. Making the Exposures. PART II. Reloadinl{ the Kodak. PAR T III. Makil1-g Flash Light Pictures. PART IV. Developing the Negatives. PA R T V. PrinHng the Pictures.
PART I. MAKING THE EXPOSURES. EVERY Kodak is te.sted in actual use and aqjusted until it IS In perfect working condition. It is then loaded with twenty-four exposures. To insure its r~aching the purchaser in the same condition that it leaves the factory it is wrapped and sealed. The seal should be broken o,nly by the purchaser. MAKING SNAP SHOTS. Snap shots can be made only when the bright sun shines directly on the object; the camera may be in the shade but the object should not.
a. S:eT TH:e SHUTT:eR. , Pull the cord until hV:O clicks are heard; pull it hard as far as it will go and do not slack the cord until the two clicks are heard; if stopped at one click, the lens will be left wide open and tIle picture spoiled. 3.'SS:eT TH:e FOCUS By moving the pointer on top of the Kodak to the figure indicating the distance to the object. If the principal object is over 100 feet set the pointer at 100. • 4. POINT TH:e KODAK. The finders .show the scope of the · view.
s. PRESS THS BflTTON. Press it firmly and do not let the Kodak waver. This takes the picture. 4 Wro ng way. Rfght way.
6. RSGISTSR SXPOSURS. Press the register lever to the right. 7. TURN FILM INTO POSITION. Turn the key to the right as far as it will go; turn it firmly until it stops. If not pulled up tight, the film will not be in focus. Repeat above operations for every picture. 6 TIME EXPOSURES INDOORS. I.~ PUT THI'{ KODAK IN POSITION. Use some firm support, like a windowsill, mantel or table. Set it in such a position that the finder or diverging lines will embrace the view desired. .
will blur the picture. If all the windows cannot be avoided pull down the shade of such as come within the range of the Kodak. 2. OPSN THS FRONT AND TURN THS MIDDI,S STOP INTO THS I,SNS. 3. SST THS.FOCUS. 3 4. SST THS SHUTTSR OPSN By pulling the cord until one click is heard. Keep the camera steady with the other hand, while pulling the cord. The proper time to leave the shutter open depends upon the, character of the t subject and the strength of the light.
For interiors, the following table is a good guide: • TIME NEEDED FOR INTERIOR EXPOSURES . The following table gives the time of exposure required under varying conditions of light with the middle stop in the lens. If the largest stop is used, give only onehalf the time; if the smallest stop is used, give 5 times the time of the table. The smaller the stop the sharper the picture. The middle stop gives the best results for interiors.
Medium-colored walls and hangings, and more than one window: bright sun outside, 8 seconds; hazy sun, 20 seconds; cloudy bright, 40 seconds; cloudy dull, 80 seconds. Medium-colored walls and hangings, and only one window: bright sun outside, 12 seconds: hazy sun, 30 seconds; cloudy bright, 60 seconds; cloudy dull, 120 seconds. Dark·colored walls and hangings, and more than one window: bright sun outside, 20 seconds; hazy sun, 40 seconds; cloudy bright, 80 seconds; cloudy dull, 2 minutes 40 seconds.
The foregoing is calculated for rooms whose windows get ,t he direct light from the sky, and for hours from three hours after sunnse to three hours before sunset,. " If earlier or later, the time required will be longer. $. PRESS THE BUTTON, This closes the shutter. Time exposures can also be made ~~~;;r~~~ with a plug. See price list. ~PUSH REGISTER r,EVER. ,. TURN THE KEY. Repeat for each exposure. 6 TIME ,EXPOSURES IN THE OPEN AIR.
Witl. Sunshine-The lens can hardly be opened and shut quick enough to avoid over-exposure. Witl. Liglzt Clouds-From U to With HQavy Clouds-From 2 1 second will be sufficient. to 5 seconds will be required. The above is calculated for the same hours as mentioned on page 12 and for objects in the open air. For other hours and for objects in the shadow, under porches, or under trees, no accurate directions can be given; experience only can teach the proper exposure to give. The Stops.
10. The Smallest-For cap exposures outdoors in cloudy weather. Never Jor in~tantancous c!k:pos'ures. The time required for cap exposures on cloudy days with smallest stop will range from ond to 5 seconds, according to the light. See page ' 3. When setting the stops always see that the one to be used the center of the lens where it catches. V2ir' This will be the result if you use the smallest stop for instantaneous exposure.
PART II. R E LOA DIN G THE KODAK . Owing to our improved spool system no dark room IS required to change the spools in this Kodak. The operation of changing spools should not be performed out of doors, a subdued light indoors is safer and better. Provide an extra spool of Kodak Film to fit this camera, and take a position by a table in a room as far as possible from any window. The film for the Daylight Kodak has, attached at both ends, a piece of black paper to protect it from the light.
Before openmg the camera · m daylight, the exposures must have all been made, and the key turned as many times as possible after the figure 24 has shown in the register,. so as to draw the black paper on the last end of the film into the box containing the exposures, so that it will cover them up. 1. Release the perforator by throwing back the counter lever, unscrew the nut holding the cover at back of Kodak, take off cover and lift out the' spool boxes. 2.
3. Lay the fresh spool box on the table, and lay along side it the empty spool box taken from the Kodak, the full spool at the left, and the slotted ends of both away from the operator. 4. Take the end of the paper protruding from the fresh spool box and draw it over to meet the paper on the empty spool: and fasten them together by moistening the gummed edge of the fresh spool. minutes. Allow the gummed edge to dry for 5 5.
box containing the empty spool. Use the loading card to guide the film into its place and turn the key until the spools seat themselves in their places. 7. Replace and screw down the lid, and put the holder in its place on the camera. 8. Turn the key until the film is taut. 9. Now slide the register and turn the key three times, the same as if making 4 exposures. This will wind the black paper out of the way, and bring the first film into position. The register will now be set at I.
PART III. TAKING KODAK PICTURES AT NIGHT WITH TEE FLASH LIGHT APPARATUS. The recent invention of the flash light apparatus renders easy the faking, .with such a camera as the Kodak, photographs at night. The requisites are The Kodak Camera,. The Flash Light Apparatus. The flash light apparatus consists of a specially constructed alcohol lamp, having in front of it a little tray upon which is poured about a teaspoonful of flash light powder.
As soon as the flame touches the powder it &ashes up an sufficiently strong to make a picture instantaneously.
PREPARATION OF THS FLASH LIGHT. The light should .always be placed two feet behind and two to three feet to one side of the Kodak. If placed in front or on a line with front of the camera, . the flash would strike the lens and blur the picture. It should be placed at one side as well as behind, so as to thro'w a shadow and give a little relief in the lighting. The lamp should be at the same height, or a little higher than the camera.
lay the bulb down (to prevent accident) and pour upon the tray in front of .theflame the contents of one of the capsules of powder that accompany the lamp ;. then uncap the camera, stand at arm's length and press the· Bulb. There will be a bright flash which will instantly impress the picture on the sensitive film. Then cap· the camera and turn a fresh film into place with the key ready for aI;'other picture. NOTE.- The amount of powder required to light a room varies with the distance of the object.
-TO MAK~ A PORTR..a.IT. Place the sitter in a chair partly facing the camera (which should be at the height of an ordinary table), and turn the face slightly toward the camera. The distance from the camera to the subject should be about 8 to 10 feet. The lamp should be on the side of the camera away ftom the face, that is the sitter should not face the lamp. The lamp should De placed higher than the head of the sitter. -TO MAK~ A GROUP.
BACKGROUNDS. In making single portraits or groups, care should be taken to have a suitable background against which the figures will show in relief; a light background is better than a dark one, and often a single figure or two will show ul> well against oa lace curtain. For larger groups a medium light wall will be suitable.. The finder on top of the camera will aid the operator to compose the groups so as to get the best effect.
PART IV. DEVELOPING. Provide an Eastman's ABC Developing and Printing Outjit, which contains r 4 r r r r E'a stman's Candle Lamp, Developing Trays, . Glass beaker, 4 x 5 Printing Frame, 4 x 5 Glass for same, Stirring Rod, Yz Dozen Developing Powders, Yz Lb. Hyposulphite Soda, 2 Dozen Sheets 4 x 5 Ferro-Prus£iate Paper. r Package of Bromide of PGtassium. I Ounce Glycerine.
Also provide a pair of shears, a pitcher of cold water, (preferably, ice water), a pail tor slops, and a dark room having a shelf or table. By a dark room it. IS meant one that is wholly dark-not a ray of light in Such a room can easily be secured at night almost anywhere. The reason a dark room is required is that the film is extremely sensitive to white light, either daylight or lamplight, and would be . spoiled zf exposed to it even for a fraction of a second, while being removed from the Kodak.
2. Unroll the film, and cut the exposures apart one-fourth inch before each perforation. 3. Fill one of the trays nearly full of water, and put into it the exposures, one by one, face down; put them in edgewise, to avoid air bells, and immerse them fully. Cover the tray with a bit of brown paper, to keep out the light from the lamp. 4. Open one of the developer powders and put the contents (2 chemicals) into the beaker and fill it up to the ring with water.
minutes the operator will be able to distinguish ~bjects in the picture. The d~veloper should be allowed to act 5 to 10 minutes. The progress of the development may be watched by holding the negative, from time to time, up to the lamp. O. Transfer the developed film to the third tray and nnse two or three times with water, leaving it to soak while the next film is being developed.
9. 10. The yellow shade can. be removed from the lamp as soon as all the exposures have been fixed. Pour off the fixing solution into the slop bucket, and fill the tray with clear, cold water; repeat this at intervals of 5 minutes, five or six times, keeping the negatives i,n motion, or transferring them · back and forth to tray No 3. one by one, to ensure the water acting evenly upon them. The fixing solution must only be used in tray NO.4. And the negatives, after fixing, must not be put in either No.
DEPECTIVE NEGATIVES. By following closely the foregoing directions, the novice can make seventy-five per cent., or upwards, of good negatives. Sometime;, however, the directions are not followed, and failures result. To forewarn the Kodaker IS to forearm him, and we therefore describe the common causes of failure. UNDER-EXPOSDRE.
o V£R-£XPOSUR£. Caused by too much light. Negative develops evenly, shadows almost as fast as high lights. No contrast, and no deep shadows. Over-exposure can be overcome in the developme nt, by the addition of bromide of potassium to the developer. The printing and developing outfit ihcludes a package of bromide, with directions, for its use. The novice will soon learn to recognize over-exposure, and to apply the rem~dy.
o VSR-DSVSI,OPMSNT. Caused by leaving the negative too long in the developer. In this case, the negative is very strong and intense by transmitted light and requires a very long time to print. The remedy is obvious. UNDSR-DSVSI,OPMSNT. Caused by removal from the developer too soon. An undeveloped negative differs from an under-exposed one, in that it is apt to be thin and full of detail, instead of harsh, and lacking in detail.
PART V. PRINTIN G ON FERRO-PR USSIA T E P A P E R. Ferro-prussiate paper affords the easiest way of making proofs from Kodak negatives, no chemicals being required. The operation being simply to lay II piece ' of the prepared paper behind the negative, in the sun, until it is darkened sufficiently, and then 'rash the print for' a few minutes in clean water. The resulting picture is of a very agreeable, bright blue color on a white ground, and is permanent. METHOD OF PRINTING.
its· register with the negative. mu~t The operation of putting on the Sensitive Paper be performed in a subdued light, that is to say in an ordinary room, as far as possible from any window. The paper not used must be kept covered in its envelope. The printing frame, when filled ~s directed, is to be laid glass side up in strong light until the light, passing through the negative 'into the Sensitive Paper, has impressed the image sufficiently upon it.
If the prints ar.e too light when washed, it will be evident that the printing was stopped too soon; and, if too dark, vice versa. The image, before the picture is washed, is quite indistinct, and two or three trials will be required to enable the novice to judge how far to carry the prints; but when learned with one negative it will be simple with all. If the Kodaker wants silver prints from his negatives, he has simply to substitute Eastman's sensitized paper for the ferro-prussiate paper.
DEVELOPING AND PRINTING. The Eastman Company was the first to render commercially possible the separation of the developing and printing from the picture taking. The division of labor inaugurated by them has brought picture taking within the reach of thousands of persons throughout the world who could not otherwise practice the art. Carrying the division of labor still further, in our own factory we employ trained operators in every branch of the work.
ENLARGING. In this department we also claim to excel. We are the largest manufacturers and users of Bromide paper In the world, and our operators are skillful and experienced. Kodak negatives of all sizes lend themselves to enlargement with equal facility. Any Kodak negative that will make a good contact print, will make a good enlargement of any size. An A Kodak negative, 2% x 3~ inches, can be enlarged perfectly by us, up to 30 x 40 inches; or, of course, to any smaller size. By judicious management a.
PATEf'lTS. The KODAK CAMERA, ROLL HOLDER, Film, and processes, and machinery for manufacturing same, are covered by the following patents owned by th<;: EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY: No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. 24 8 ,179 306 ,594 3 16 ,933 3 17,049 3 17,050 355, 08 4 35 8,893 370,050 370,110 370,IIl 37°.216 . . 388,850 405.454 . October II, October 14, May 5, May 5, May 5, December 28, March 8, September 20, September 20, September 20, September. 20, September 4, June 18, July No.
• LIST OF PRINCIPAL FO'REIGN KO,[)~K ,[)E~LE'RS ; Adelaide, Australia, BAKER & ROUSE. Amsterdam, Holland, E. FISCHEL, JR., 88 Gelderschekade. Amsterdam, Holland, GROOTE & ZN .. Kalverstraat. Antwerp, Belgium, L. VAN NECK, Rue Klapdorf. Berlin, Germany, ROMAIN TALBOT, Kaiser Wilhelm-Strasse 46. Bombay, THACKER & Co, Brussels, Belgium, SEB. GECELE, 86 Marche Aux Herbes. Brussels, Belgium, J. MARYNEN & CO., •• Montague Aux Herbes Potageres. . Brussels, Belgiu'!'J J.
Price List of SUTJplies for the C Daylight Kodak. Spools film, 24 exposures ______________________________ $1 60 ". Ferro-prussiate paper, per pkg. 2 doz., 4 x 5- -- ----------Eastman's Sensitized" Solio" paper, per pkg. 2 do~en____ Toning solution for do, per bottle _____________ __________ 30 50 50 Mounts, maroon or primrose, gold bevel edge, per dozen___ Developer'powders, per pkg.
