TABLE OF CONTENTS KNOWING YOUR MACHINE Page Knowing parts and features 1-2 GETTING READY TO SEW Setting up your machine 3 Electronic needle contro|, stitch selector and indicator 4 5 Winding the bobbin 6- 7 Threading your machine 8 Checking for correct tension 9 Changing needies, needleplates 10 Special fabnc chart STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEWING 13 Using the free-arm 14 Straight stitching 15 Securing seams, top-stitching 16 3 ways to do basting Zigzag sewing -- the basics 17 19 Blind hemming 20 Mending, darn
KNOWING !. Free arm 2. Free-arm cover 3. Bobbin window 4. 5. 6. 7, !4. !5. Bobbin cover piate Swing-away base release Needleptate Presser foot YOUR SEWING MACHINE 16. Top thread tension control 17. Built-in buttonhole control 18. Bobbin winder shaft 19. Bobbin winder latch 20. Stitch indicator 8. Needle bar thread guide 9. Needle clamp screw t0. Needle bar 21. 22. 23. Stitch width control Stitch selector Reverse stitch control 11. Thread guide 12, Face cover pIate 24. Basting switch 25. 26.
FRONTVIEW @@ 1 @ ®®0
GETTING READY TO SEW SETrlNG UP YOUR MACHINE When you open your Kenmore carton, you'll find the basic machine, foot control, the instruction book you now are reading, and one box of attachments {Accessories end ButtonholerL Set your machine on a sturdy flat surface. Be sure to wipe off any excess oil that may have accumulated in shipping, Step 1: The spool pins You'tl find Spool Pins (32) packed in the Accassones and Buttonholer Box. Using a screwdriver, attach them securely at rear as indicated.
ELECTRONIC NEEDLE CONTROL Needle stops precisely in up or down The electronic control panel contains three electronically controlled basting or tacking to The other two switches electronically control position for general sewing, or in the down position switches. One switch provides an take the chore out of hand basting. the needle to stop in either the up position for intricate work. 1. This feature gives you the option of stopping your machine with the needle m an up position each time.
WINDING THE BOBBIN A) Place thread on Spool Pin (32) and cover with a cap (32) as shown below. To wind bobbin, draw thread from spool through Rear Thread Guides (34 and 36) and the Bobbin Winder Disc (35) as indicated below. B) Pull end of thread through any hole m bobbin; place bobbin on Bobbin Winder Shaft (18) with end of thread coming from top of bobbin as shown above. \ C) Push Bobbin Winder Latch (19) against bobbin until it clicks.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Drop-in bobbin makes this a simple sure operation A) Make sure needle is in highest position (this will always be true if top left needle position light is on). B) Remove Bobbin Cover Plate (4) -- just lift up the front and it slips right out. C) Now place the full bobbin in Bobbin Case with thread coming off in a counter-clockwise direction.
7 THREADING THE REST OF YOUR MACHINE Upper needle now threading threading quick and ... ... easy C) Making certain that needle in its highest position, thread from front to back. B) Now pull thread toward you into Top-Threading Path (14), down to Tension Spring (13) -diagram above, Pull thread up into spring. Then draw thread through stotted take-up ]ever (t5} and down again through either side of lower thread guide (1t).
THREAD TENSION: STRAIGHT STITCHING "Balance" is the key to handsome, durable straight stitching o Decrease tension Increase tension THREAD TENSION: ZIGZAG STITCHING CHECKING THREAD FOR CORRECT TENSION STRAIGHT STITCHING TOP STITCH TOO TIGHT OF The good looking appearance of your straight stitching is mainly determined by the balanced tension of the top thread and bobbin thread. The tension is well balanced when the two threads lock m the middfe of the layers of fabric when straight stitching.
CHANGING NEEDLES AND NEEDLEPLATES YOUR SIZE 14 NEEDLE IS BASIC., o,. to most of your sewing, To replace needle: Turn hand wheel toward you to raise Needle Bar (10) to highest position. Loosen Needle Clamp Screw (9) with screwdriver. Holding flat side away from you, insert needle as far as it will go. Tighten clamp screw securely, using screwdriver. Needle choice depends on thread _,.,both determined o by fabric TO REPLACE THE NEEDLEPLATE INSERT Raise needle to its highest position.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE FOR THE FABRIC Kenmore needles THE FABRIC IS THE KEY TO NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR FABRIC , are recommended for all Kenmore machines LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys, Fine Lace, Organza. Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy i i ,,. you'll find them in your nearest Sears store or the Sears General Catalog. m the sewing machine section. If you do not have a Kenmore needle, prease use th_s illustration to be sure your needle as the right size.
11 STRAIGHT YOUR FOOT CONTROLS THE SPEED AND ZIGZAG SEV_NG Easy to use as an automobile accelerator{ Seated comfortably? Directly in front of your machine? Place the Foot Control (46) where your foot reaches it easily, Turn on the PowerlLight Switch (28). Now simply press your foot on pedal (45) until you reach a slow even speed. Never try to sew too fast.
THE "FEED DOGS'" KEEP THE FABRIC MOVING The Feed Dogs (42) are at work reside your machine under the Needleplate (6) creating an upward force that moves fabric under presser foot. As the stitch is being set into the fabric, the feed comes up to help presser foot keep fabric taut, then to advance fabric one stitch at a time.
13 SWING UP FOR FREE ARM SEWING i This machine easily converts from a flat-bed to a free-arm machine for easy handling of awkward, hard-to-reach sewing tasks. To convert to free-arm, push Release Button (5), swing base up and away. With the Base (44) swung away, you can ship any sleeve under the presser foot. Now you can see seam clearly, sew without hindrance, It's great for patching and decorating, too (see section on "Finishing Touches"). Tricky turtlenecks are a cinch to stitch with the free arm.
EASY TO SET FOR ALL STRAIGHT STITCH I NG Stitch length is your key decision HERE ARE YOUR Chances are, you'll use straight stitching most frequently. This is the basic permanent stitch that holds the garment together. You'll use the Straight Stitch Presser Foot and Straight Stitch Needteplate, of course. Machine settings are detailed below. For permantent seaming, the straight stitch length is determined by thickness of fabric.
15 MAKING PERMANENT SEAMS TRULY PERMANENT It's a good idea to begin and end each seam by stitching in reverse, pressing down Reverse Stitch Control (23). Be sure both threads are drawn back under presser foot. Stitch backwards about _", This iscalled backtacking; it reinforces seams, prevents unraveling. , electronic ,,jjj Backtacking..
"TEMPORARY'" SEWING BY MACHINE New basting very free method long stitches for !%!olonger do you need to baste by hand! Regular basting (above right) by machine is easy -- simply use straight stitching with longest available length setting (6 stitches per inch). And your Kenmore has a free basting method for yew long stitches (lower right) that sometimes,can be used for "marking". Just set your machine and sew as indicated below. _.
17 ZIGZAG STITCHING m AND HOW IT EXPANDS YOUR SKILLS Many plain and fancy uses Simple zigzag stttching enables you to do many exciting things with your Kenmore sewing machine. Beyond basics, you'll use zigzag stitching to applique, embroider and monogram. Unlike straight stitches, zigzag stitches have a side-to-side width as well as a stitch length. You'll find "recipes" for many zigzag operations on following pages.
CHANGE STITCH LENGTH AND WIDTH FOR STRENGTH ...FOR VARIETY YOUR KEY CONTROL is the Stitch Width Control (21), When adjusting settings, remember: the higher the number the wider the zigzag stitch, Your choice of zigzag stitch width and length wilt depend on the fabric and job. The stitch length-rule is usually the lighter the fabric, the shorter the stitch.
19 BLIND HEMMING-A BASIC STITCH THAT ADDS A FINISHING TOUCH Built-in Blindstitch reai time-saver is a Blind hemming is a good technique to use on garments, and especially on curtains and drapery hems so that stitches need not show on the front of the fabnc. Because your Kenmore has two types of blindstitches built in, blind hemming is easier than you'd expect. It's just a matter of folding.., give it a try! -- Regular blind stitch for normal fabrics .
HOW TO REPAIR STRAIGHT OR 3-CORNERED Setting your machine MENDING AND DARNING-BY MACHINE! So much Takes little Stitch Selector --ii;_ Stitch Width Control -- 4 Stitch Length Control -- Red zone Stitch Modifier -- Neutral Zigzag Foot Zigzag Needleplate T_-_AR Fit torn edges together closely as possible under the needle, starting from rear of damaged area. Sew slowly, making sure that stitching catches both sides of the tear.
21 OTHER USEFUL UTiLiTY AND BASIC ZIGZAG STITCHES A decorative stitch that also is good for mending knits. FAGOTING This is a popular decorative stitch {used in sleeves or fronts of blouses and dresses). To attach two separate pieces of fabric together, leave a little space inbetweem To prepare the fabric: t ! Fold under the seam allowances on the cut edges, and press. Baste folded edges to tissue paper with about _,_'°space between.
iNTERFACING I To support and shape edges You will use this for stiffening collars, cuffs, flaps m many garment areas -- fronts, hems, iapels. The interfacing may be any special fabric applied to the inside of a garment to give it shape, body and/or support. "'tnterfacings" come m light, medium and heavy weaghts w also in "fusible" fabrics, with adhesives applied, Generally, you will use the machine settings shown at right, for seams or darts in interfacing.
BUTTONHOLES USING YOUR BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE SYSTEM It's great for making single and extra-long buttonholes 23 AND FASTNERS Your Kenmore built-in system is the only one that can be used on free-arm. It is an excellent way to make buttonholes on cuffs, waist bands, other tight places. An important aid is the Buttonhole Guide Foot (in your buttonhole attachment box). It has graduated markings IYB" apart) to help you make buttonholes to exact size. Mark buttonhole length on your garment.
USING YOUR SPECIAL BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT It wilt become your "best Another important buttonhole accessory., Your Buttonhole Guideplate is a Kenmore "special" that guides the fabric for you, eliminates the need to turn fabric by hand, enables you to make a variety of bas}c and spec_a! buttonholes. friend" Get acquainted with "buttonhole what's in your box" Your Buttonhole Guideplate ,s easily installed, just behind the needieplate.
25 IT CAN BE FUN TO TRY OUT (and show off) YOUR NEW BUTTONHOLE SKILLS Start with the ones Built-in buttonholes (described previously) are ideal for one or two buttons used on waistband or cuff, or for "belt slots." Purl-edge buttonholes are made by stitching a larger straight buttonhole on top of a narrow one -- for a unique look.
"'REGULARWORKED" BUTTONHOLING An art by our . grandmothers.., now easy to do by machine Settings for round-end, keyhole, eyelet .., Stitch Selector - il Stitch Width Control'-i! to 1_ Stitch Length Control -- 0 Stitch Modifier - Neutral Buttonhole Foot RELEASE BUTTON Zigzag Needieplate Darntng Plate First, place darning plate over zigzag needleplate; then, select correct template for type buttonhole you want. Insert template into slot of guldepIate.. Turn template knob to desired size ...
27 PURL-EDGING FOR THAT PROFESSIONAL TOUCH You can make a purl-edge buttonhole by sewing a wide buttonhole over a narrow stitched buttonhole. Machine settings are the same as for a round-end buttonhole. Simply choose the correct size purl-edge template for your button. But be sure to adjust stitch width control to 1. Sew around the buttonhole once, Then remove guJdeplate and turn template to the wider size purl-edge. Adjust stitch width to 1½ and sew around buttonhole again.
ZIPPERS THAT ARE SMOOTH-WORKING, GOOD LOOKING i i Home-sewn zippers can look as nice as those on expensive ready-mades. We recommend you follow directions given on zipper package. There are two basic types: conventional, and invisible. Your Zipper Foot will assist you with any of these installations. Use these simple settings: For conventional zippers ... Your zipper foot is adjustable for use on right or left side of needle. Adjust foot so needle clears side notch on foot.
29 MACHINE-SEWED BUTTONS? YES-WiTH THiS KENMORE! Clear plastic makes job foot easy! Your settings: Stitch Selector ii Set Length Control at any number Width Contro! -- adjust to button size Use Zigzag Needleptate and Darning Plate Use Clear Plastic Satin Stitch Foot t/ LEFT OHOLE F BU_ON PRESSER FOOT STRAIGHT Scotchtape button on fabric to hold in place while needle stitches-from side to side.
STRETCH AND SPECIAL STITCHES STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING For seams that need to stretch with the fabric You'll use this basic stitch oftenfor garment construction or anywhere else you would use a straight stitch for seaming -p|ain, pressed-open or double-stitched, tf you want a good looking top stitch on knits, use straight stretch ... particularly for strength when making sportswear.
31 THE STRETCH STITCHES YOU USE MOST ARE BUiLT-IN So many ways to sew today's knits! You have a Your basic settings are illustrated immediately wide variety of zigzag stitches_ simpiy set Stitch below. The only changes you need consider are Selector (22) as indicated in each "recipe"_ All variations in stitch width w as you become exother machine settings are the same for each of pert, you may wish stitches to show, either shortthe stitches. With all these, use the zigzag presser er or longer.
FEATHER STRETCH ELASTIC STRETCH You'll love this lingerie OVERCAST STRETCH A "must" making for stretch sportswear Stitch Selector -- This is a good stitch to use with laces, on lingerie, bra and girdles; and to apply bias tape. It's great when quilting. Stitch for skirt-bands and F Selector _ Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in garments. Simply stitch elastic into place, making sure it is evenly spaced.
33 Stitch Selector - G Stitch Width Control -- 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control -- 24 to 12 PARIS POINT STRETCH Excellent for •eiegant touch. materials, Sew the outside of SOME FAVORITE STITCHES CAN BE DECORATIVE Smocking strictly stitch effect: for charm hemstitching table and bed covers with a Picot-like stitch can also be made on sheer along the raw edge of fabric and trim close to the stitching. Of course, you can "create" with basics ..
FINISHING AND PERSONAL TOUCHES SATIN STITCHES AS THE PROFESSIONALS USE THEM Closely-spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. They add a lovely finishing touch to garments and {inens-whether in simple sewing or super decorations with any of your patterns or embroidery designing. Use a Zigzag Needleptate and the special Satin Stitch Foot.
35 HERE ARE SOME "'SINGLE-NEEDLE" DESIGNS YOU'LL LIKE TO USE Only your "fancy" is needed for this fanciwork Now we demonstrate variations and applications you'll want to master as you become more expert. For examp(e ... We've added an embroidered touch to a bias tape at right and perked-up the collerbelow with a crescent stitch, But you'll find the right placein.
iMPROVE YOUR SKILLS WiTH THESE KENMORE SPECIAL AIDS Want to do "narrow-hemming"? Your Kenmore special attachments (found in your Accessories & Buttonhoier box) will help you develop these talents. You'll want to meet m and try all these aids. But first, we suggest, you get acquainted with your "adjustable holder" (at left).
YOUR KENMORE EDGESTITCHER MAKES MANY TRIMS POSSIBLE 37 A MOST 3 VERSATILE ACCESSORY This one attachment helps you join fabric edges.., insert lace,.. do seam piping simplifies blind hemming as well as "French" seams. Slots numbered 1 to 5 serve as sewing guides, 2 1 USEFUL, 5 Set your machine for the stitch you want to use, Then follow numbers for the task at hand: these slot Slot I will guide fabric to be joined to lace. All you have to do is place the lace in s|0t 2.
PROBLEM FABRICS? TOO SOFT TO FINISH? HERE ARE HAPPY ENDINGS ... The extreme stretchiness of some soft fa brics (like jerseys and lingerie tricot) can make hemming troublesome, Here are two good answers with your Kenmore. HANDSOME SHELL STITCHING This shell-stitched edge and n_ghtgowns. To is a popular achieve this finish multiple for lingerie scalloped effect, set your machine as shown below. When sewing, allow needle to clear }ust the left edge of the fabnc when it z_gzags.
39 APPLIQUES, OTHER ADD-ONS m EASIER WITH YOUR KENMORE Neat ways to personalize your Appliques, small pieces of fabric applied as decorative trim- now are more popular than ever in adding interest to children's wear, sportswear, even dressy clothing. Select an applique to compliment the main fabric and baste it in-place, Using the satin stitch or paris point stretch stitch isee page 33), sew around raw edge of applique completely covering edge.
CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS? THIS CHART MAY SOLVE THEM Your Kenmore sewing machine =sa precision instrument, designed to give you many years of troublefree sewing -- with minimum maintenance. But it is a complex machine, And you may sometimes have difficulty in mastering a given stitch, . adjusting for an unusual fabric., , learning when to replace a needle or use a different thread. So if trouble occurs, don't panic.
SUSPECTED PROBLEM POSSIBLY EASY CORRECTION Incorrect Reset thread tension(s), Increase pressure on presser foot. Upper thread and bobbin thread should size and kind. Insert new needle. Reset presser foot. Use underlay of tissue paper. thread tension{s), Light pressure on presser foot. Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Sent or blunt needle. Loose presser foot_. Fabric too sheer or too soft. PUCKERING Incorrect size needle. Certain knits and synthetics. Bent or blunt, needle.
CLEANING YOUR MACHgNE AND KEEPING IT CLEAN A clean machine sews better... runs smoother... lasts It takes a little time -- and very little effort -- to keep the essential parts of your sewing machine in finest working order.
43 Then clean shuttle area with small brush and discharge lint from hole on the left wal!, Put a drop of oi! to the points indicated by arrows, Don't over-oif.! (Reminder: don't use household oil,,, HOLE use sewing machine oil,) LOCKING Step 5 Replacing bobbin case and free*arm cover.
OILING YOUR MACHINE KEEPS IT SMOOTH RUNNING To prevent friction and wear, oil your machine regularly. If you use the machine all day every day, oil it weekly. If it is used moderate!y, oil it every two months. If the machine is not used for some time, oil it the day before you start to sew to be sure you don't soil fabrics. Always remove dust and lint before oiling. Just a drop or two of oil at each point is sufficient.
REPLACING (OR ADDING) iMPORTANT A3-[ACHNIENTS NEEDLESPacket of needles with your machine includes a variety of sizes, Replacement needles come in packages of one size only. All the shown attachments on these __ PRESSER FEET pages accessories may Part No, "No. 9 6550 _No._11 655t No, 14 6552 No, t6 6553 You may want to order these No, 18 6554 "Q NEEDLE ''T= 6746 Double Needle 6749 %-:.., 45 be ob- tained from any Sears, Roebuck and Co.
OTHER VITAL iTEMS Adjustable Holder art 29308) Darning _bbin Box with Plastic Plate Bobbins I# 6868) Zigzag Needleplate !# 45747) Straight Stitch Needleplate t# 45748) (#43166) 10 Metal(# 6862)Bobbins Bobbin Winder Rubber Ring 1#1939) mo, ..r.....
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