Application Guide

My homemade jams are less sweet than commercial jams, as you
may notice. I tend to cut back from the traditional one-to-one sugar-to-fruit proportions
that leave the fruit swimming in a clear jelly. These recipes make softer jams. I think
they are much more exciting in flavor and color this way, with a balance of fruit flavor
and sweetness. As you add the sugar, always do so to your taste, so you can achieve
the proper sweetness for your own palate. Taste the fruit before placing it in the pan to
get an idea of how sweet it is to begin with. Or, hold back some of the sugar and taste
the sugar-fruit mixture after the sugar has dissolved, before you start the machine.
Some sweetening is vital to the process of making jam since sugar at-
tracts the water from the fruit and binds it to the fruit pulp, thereby acting as a preserv-
ative. It also helps the thickening process. Pectin, a starch found at least in small
amounts in all fruit, forms an “affectionate” network, trapping the sugar and fruit pulp.
A bit of acid, usually in the form of lemon juice, encourages the pectin, and the pulp
ends up a spreadable paste. The long, chainlike molecules of pectin, naturally occur-
ring in the the cell walls of plants, are especially important for thickening these closed-
oven jams, as they cannot be helped along by liquid evaporating during cooking. The
lack of evaporation with the bread machine method also results in a greater yield per
batch than on the stovetop. Remember that the more sugar you add, the thicker your
jam will be, and jams do continue to thicken upon cooling and refrigerating. Never use
sugar substitutes, which will not be effective thickeners. The exception to this rule is
powdered fructose. Please note, too, that these recipes may yield a different amount of
jam each time you make them, depending on the juiciness and seasonal variations of
the fruit. For sophisticated palates, add a light splash of good-quality cognac, Scotch,
amaretto, cassis, port, or orange liqueur as the jam finishes cooking.
Pectin comes in 1.75- and 2-ounce packages, depending on the brand.
The tiny difference in the quantities is not significant; use half, three-fourths, or what-
ever portion the recipe calls for when using either size package.
Do not be tempted to double any of the recipes in this chapter. The
bread pan has a limited capacity, and can only make small amounts of preserves at one
time—the paddle must be able to stir all the jam efficiently. The volume of the ingredi-
ents should never exceed 3
1
/
2
cups total of fruit and sugar, but please check your man-
ufacturer’s manual, as the maximum amount varies from model to model. The ingredi-
ents will cook down in different degrees depending on the denseness of the fruit used.
If you need more jam, make a new batch.
Store your jam in a covered container in the refrigerator up to 2
months. I keep a collection of pretty storage jars such as French confiture jars or the
tulip-shaped German Weck jars, quilted jelly jars, or glass-topped jars with wire clo-
sures (spring-top jars); they look nice set out on the table. Even though sterilizing the
jars is not necessary for short-term storage like this, I run them through the dishwasher
or wash them well in hot sudsy water and dry them completely before filling them.
These preserves can also be frozen in plastic containers or small freezer bags for up to
three months.
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