Application Guide

SAVORY VEGETABLE AND FRUIT BREADS
We are certainly used to vegetables in soup or as a side dish for dinner, but in baked
bread? I remember W the first time I had a vegetable in bread—it was zucchini bread,
a quick bread. I couldn’t believe a vegetable could take on such a different character.
The vegetable lent not only a wonderful flavor to the bread, but also added a very spe-
cial kind of moisture to it. From then on, I began to make all sorts of quick breads with
carrots, sweet potato, pumpkin, and corn. The first yeast bread I ever made with veg-
etables was one that called for potatoes. Then I made a recipe from my favorite British
food writer, Jane Grigson, that paired raw onions with walnuts. It was fantastic. A trip
to Berkeley to Narsai David’s bakery found me staring at a loaf made with grated raw
potatoes and beets. Pink bread! beets. Pink bread!
From then on, I began to see the edible stems, roots, fruits, and leaves
that we call vegetables—things like tomatoes, pumpkin, winter squash, parsnips,
spinach, and garlic—as dominant ingredients in yeast breads rather than strictly as top-
pings or fillings, as for pizza or ravioli. The vegetables lend their characteristic flavors,
along with a full palate of muted colors. Yeast breads that contain vegetables and
sweet fruits carry the aura of being extra healthy by including optimum nourishment in
a loaf. Fruit, often thought of as a sweet bread ingredient, complements savory breads,
too.
While this may seem to us like nouvelle cuisine, bakers have been
fortifying breads with their garden produce, especially tubers and bulbs, since man was
a hunter-gatherer. The Egyptians were creative bakers and loved to put onion, the lily
of the Nile, in their breads. Small cakes of pounded cereal, onion, and poppy seeds
have been found in archaeological digs at the Swiss lakeside dwellings. The combina-
tion of such a variety of products we get from the earth blend together to make good
breads. If you try some of these recipes, your baking repertoire will expand consider-
ably.
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