Installation Guide

Laminate Uniclic Installation Guidelines
Diagram B-2
Method C: With our new fold-down end joints, you
simply line up the ends of the two boards (Diagrams C-
1 & C-2) with the tongue of the long side of the plank
inserted into the groove, then lower into place (Diagram
C-1). When working towards a door frame and need to
install under it, lay the final piece lf at with the tongue of
the short end of the plank in the groove, slide in as far
as possible with your hands, and then use a tapping
block and gently tap into the final position. An alternate
method that would be easier – would be to start the
new row under the door frame. Position the plank so
that ends in the proper spot under the door (remember
to leave room for expansion/contraction), and use a
tapping block to gently tap into place; then continue
installing the planks normally to finish the row.
Diagram C-1 Diagram C-2
Remove all wall base or molding, and undercut door
frames if necessary. When installing over concrete or
a crawl space, you will need to use at least a 2 in 1
underlayment (with moisture barrier); if you are not
using an underlayment with an attached moisture
barrier, you can use a standard underlayment over a
polyethylene film (6mil or more thickness) for this
purpose. Overlap the seams by 4 – 6 inches (101.6 –
152 mm), and then tape the seams to provide a
seamless moisture barrier. Put down the plastic film as
necessary until you complete that section, this will help
to keep the moisture barrier from getting damaged.
Overlap the plastic film, and then use underlayment
tape for a seamless moisture barrier. Allow the film to
run up the wall a short distance; then trim so it will be
covered by wall molding (Figure 1). When starting the
installation, it is important to take time to
plan the installation; accurate measurements will allow
you to avoid having to cut small strips when you reach
the other side of the room. If necessary, you may need
to trim the starting row width so that you can avoid very
thin strips of flooring when you reach the other side of
the room.
Figure 1
Figure 2
To start, the sides of the planks that will go next to the
wall will need to have the tongue portion removed
(Figure 2) to allow room for expansion. To start, take
two full planks and cut 1/3 and 2/3 off the planks (be
sure that the cut sides will be next to the wall); this will
give you two cut planks to start the second and third
rows. Place the full plank close to the wall, then add the
larger of the two cut planks (aligned to the left, cut edge
next to wall); then take the third smaller cut plank and
do the same (Figure 4.1). It may be helpful to lay out
the planks on the floor, so you see how to use the
boards effectively. Be sure that all cut planks are at
least 8 inches (203mm) long, and that the end joints are
never closer than 8 inches (203mm) from the next end
joint in another row. Follow the procedures shown in
Figures 4.1 - 4.3 for the first three rows; you can then
push these 3 completed rows into place along the wall.
Be sure to use spacers or scrap pieces of flooring along
the wall to maintain the expansion gap. At this point,
you can avoid a stair step joint pattern by using the
pieces of boards cut off when finishing a row (or cut
new ones). Be sure these pieces are at least 8 inches
(203 mm) long. Always keep the end joints at least 8
inches (203 mm) apart. You can then finish the room as
shown in Figures 4.1 – 4.12.
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