Installation Guide

Doc. ID: 222 Rev: 3 Effective: 2-19-2019 Page | 4
• Subfloors should be in clean condition.
• Understand the parts of the locking part of the flooring plank. The tongue is the thinner extension coming out of the side of the
planks. The groove is the wider extension coming out of the other side of the floor plank. The ends do not have tongue and groove.
There is an upper drop-lock end on one side and a lower-drop lock end on the other side.
Note: On the short end sides, the tongue and the groove need to be pushed hard or pounded with soft head hammer to lock them
together. If the edges are not flush with each other, check for debris between them.
• Lay out several cartons. Randomly rack planks to ensure good color and shade mixture and end joint spacing. Minimum end stagger
is 6”. Inspect plank quality and grading. Random pattern is the most common pattern but it is a matter of preference.
• Lay out trim moldings in advance and find planks whose shade closely matches. Set these aside for future use.
• Remove existing base, shoe molding or threshold carefully. They can be used to cover the expansion gap left around the edge of the
room.
• Undercut doors and casings using a handsaw laid flat on a piece of scrap flooring.
• Install moisture barrier on concrete. For concrete, let the moisture barrier run up the wall a bit before cutting to size and tape all
seams
• Install the underlayment (if used) parallel to the flooring according to underlayment manufacture instructions. Any overlap (top)
should be on the same side as the groove of the flooring so that the hardwood will slide smoothly into place. Tape all seams. Secure
underlayment material as necessary to prevent excessive movement.