Installation Guide

when installing moldings and trim not to nail into the oating oor.
• While installing ooring, it is best to work from several cartons of material to properly
blend the naturally occurring lighter and darker boards to achieve a more uniform oor
appearance. In addition, this will help distribute the random length planks.
• Decide the direction the ooring will be installed in the room. If possible, it is best to install
perpendicular to the direction of the ooring joists. Flooring will be accented best if installed
parallel to the largest windows in the room.
• This oating wood oor requires a minimum 3/8” expansion space around the perimeter
of the room to allow for normal expansion and contraction, as well as around any other
vertical objects in the room (cabinets, columns, etc.). In areas larger than 24 ft. length in either
direction, an expansion break in the ooring (covered by T-Molding), or additional expansion
space is required. Allow an additional 1/4” space for every 12 ft. in length above 24 ft. Example:
For a 36’x36’ size room, allow 5/8” expansion (normal 3/8” plus 1/4” expansion for the 12ft.
over 24ft.) in both directions.
• Pre-plan the number of rows (based off of board face width). Often the last row will
need to be ripped lengthwise to fit. If the measurement for the last row is less than 2”
PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING CONTINUED
(allowing for required expansion space), it would best to rip
the boards in the first and last rows to balance the installation.
If the ripped boards have to be narrower than 2”, use a high
quality carpenter’s glue to secure the narrower boards to the
wider adjoining planks.
• Remove any base, shoe, or threshold moldings prior to
beginning installation. These can be replaced at the end of
the install.
• Under cut door jambs to allow for expansion space and
to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This can be done by using a
small piece of the ooring as a guide/rest for your jamb saw. Expansion breaks (covered by
T-Molding) are recommended in doorway ooring.
• The use of putty to fill small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered normal
in any wood ooring installation. When using putty on low sheen (gloss) wood oors, use a
plastic putty knife and remove excess immediately with a soft cloth to prevent gloss-up of
the finish.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR FLATNESS
• Use a straight edge to determine suboor atness (throughout oor). The
suboor should be at to within 3/16” in an 8’ area.
• High areas need to be sanded and low areas filled. NEVER SAND ANY EXISTING
FLOOR OR ADHESIVE SUSPECTED TO CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR CRYSTALLINE
SILICA (such as resilient vinyl or linoleum, or the adhesives used to bond them).
• High or low areas in the suboor could cause the oated oor to ex causing
squeaking, popping, or other noises. Over time this exing could also cause the
locking system to weaken resulting in gaps or loose boards in the oor.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR MOISTURE
WOOD SUBFLOORS:
• The moisture content of the suboor must be checked using a reputable
manufacturer’s moisture meter. Wood suboors should not exceed a 14% moisture
content, and the moisture variance between the wooden suboor and the new
ooring to be installed should not exceed 4%.
CONCRETE SUBFLOORS:
• When ooring is installed directly to a concrete suboor, one of the following
moisture tests is recommended:
• Calcium Chloride Test (maximum 3.0 pounds)
• Tramex Moisture Meter (maximum reading of 4.5)
• Delmhorst BD2100 Moisture Meter (reading of green/dry)
• RH (Relative Humidity) should not exceed 75% in slab
• Keep documentation of all moisture readings. If results indicate a moisture
problem exists, DO NOT INSTALL THE FLOORING! Most moisture issues can
be corrected easily (sealing, etc.). When corrected, retest the suboor to assure
moisture guidelines have been met.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
TOOLS NEEDED
• Roll out foam underlayment (follow instructions inside packaging). On a concrete suboor,
if you are using an underlayment that does not have a vapor barrier attached, loose lay 6
mil poly sheeting with the seams overlapped 8”, taped with clear packaging tape and lapped
up the wall but not touching the sheetrock. Then roll out underlayment, butting edges. For
installations over a plywood suboor it is not necessary to use poly sheeting, and foam
underlayment may or may not have a vapor barrier attached.
• Never open the bundles until ready to start the installation process.
• When the decision is made on the direction the boards will run, start at one side wall with
the first row of boards allowing an expansion space along side and end walls with the use of
wood wedges (equivalent spacers.) Extra expansion space is required in large areas (i.e. one
room; two rooms with adjoining archways or a room with an extended hallway) measuring
more than 24 linear feet in either direction (width or length). Either install a T-molding across
the width of the room, archway or use an additional 1/4” expansion for each additional 12
linear feet (i.e. for a 3/8” product in a room that measures 36’ x 36’ you would leave 5/8”
expansion around all vertical surfaces which can be covered by your choice of molding).
SIDE AND END GLUING
• The engineered boards must be side and end glued using wood glue. Apply glue in the
groove of each plank as you install . Begin at the end and fill the entire length of the board. Fully
glue the end joint. It is very important to fill the groove to its full thickness. This will ensure
proper transfer to the tongue of the adjoining planks. Failure to follow proper glue schedule
will void all warranties. If any excess glue squeezes up to the finished surface, wipe off using
a paper towel or cloth.
INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
• The boards in the last row will need to be cut to the necessary width. Remember to allow
the appropriate expansion space between the last row and any vertical surface it adjoins. Mark
the board to the correct width and contours of the wall.
• After the oor is completely installed, remove spacers, install molding and thoroughly clean
the oor with an approved Wood Floor Cleaner.
• Never cover a newly installed oor with plastic. Always use a breathable material such as
craft paper or cardboard.
INSTALLING FLOOR
FLOATING INSTALLATION
• Foam Underlayment
• 6-mil Polyethylene film (if going over concrete)
• Roberts #1406 T&G Adhesive
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• T-square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Measuring Tape
• Wood Chisel
• Safety Glasses
• Circular or Rip Saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust Mask
• Knee Pads
• Pull Bar
TOOLS NEEDED
NAIL/STAPLE INSTALLATION
• 15 lb. Asphalt felt or Roberts Silicone Vapor Shield (SVS)
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• Square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Wood Chisel
• Safety glasses
• Circular or rip saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust mask
• Knee pads
• Pull bar
FOR 3/8”: PNEUMATIC OR MANUAL NAILER/STAPLER FOR USE WITH 3/8”
FLOORS
• 80-85 lb of air pressure
• 1” minimum fastener length
• 20 Gauge
FOR 1/2”: PNEUMATIC OR MANUAL NAILER/STAPLER FOR USE WITH 1/2”
FLOORS
• 80-85 lb of air pressure
• 1-1/4” minimum fastener length
• 18 Gauge