Installation Guide

PRE-PLANNING
• Slightly bowed (curved) boards can be installed and are not considered to be
defective (See Installation Tip 1).
• When cutting or sanding wood ooring it is recommended that you wear
a protective dust mask to avoid inhaling wood dust, and safety glasses for
eye protection.
• A oating oor expands and contracts with the seasons and should never be
restricted in any way. Be careful not to put fasteners (nails, screws, etc.) through the
oor or “pinch” the oor under doorways, cabinets, etc. This could cause the oor
to pull apart or buckle because it is not allowed to oat freely. Be especially careful
when installing moldings and trim not to nail into the oating oor.
• While installing ooring, it is best to work from several cartons of material
to properly blend the naturally occurring lighter and darker boards to achieve a
more uniform oor appearance. In addition, this will help distribute the random
length planks.
• Decide the direction the ooring will be installed in the room. If possible, it is
best to install perpendicular to the direction of the ooring joists. Flooring will be
accented best if installed parallel to the largest windows in the room.
• This oating wood oor requires a minimum 3/8” expansion space around the
perimeter of the room to allow for normal expansion and contraction, as well as
around any other vertical objects in the room (cabinets, columns, etc.).
• Extra expansion space is required in large areas (i.e. one room; two rooms with
PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING CONTINUED
adjoining archways or a room with an extended hallway) measuring more than 24
linear feet in either direction (width or length). Either install a T-molding across the
width of the room, archway or use an additional 1/4” expansion for each additional
12 linear feet (i.e. for a 3/8” product in a room that measures 36’ x 36’ you would
leave 5/8” expansion around all vertical surfaces which can be covered by your
choice of molding).
• Pre-plan the number of rows (based off of board face width). Often the last row
will need to be ripped lengthwise to fit. If the measurement for the last row is less
than 2” (allowing for required expansion space), it would best to rip the boards in
the first and last rows to balance the installation. If the ripped boards have to be
narrower than 2”, use a high quality carpenter’s glue in the tongue and groove to
secure the narrower boards to the wider adjoining planks.
• Remove any base, shoe, or threshold moldings prior to beginning installation.
These can be replaced at the end of the install.
• Under cut door jambs to allow for expansion space and to avoid difficult scribe
cuts. This can be done by using a small piece of the ooring as a guide/rest for your
jamb saw.
• The use of putty to fill small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered
normal in any wood ooring installation. When using putty on low sheen (gloss)
wood oors, use a plastic putty knife and remove excess immediately with a soft
cloth to prevent gloss-up of the finish.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR FLATNESS
• Use a straight edge to determine suboor atness (throughout oor). The
suboor should be at to within 3/16” in an 8’ area.
• High areas need to be sanded and low areas filled. NEVER SAND ANY EXISTING
FLOOR OR ADHESIVE SUSPECTED TO CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR CRYSTALLINE
SILICA (such as resilient vinyl or linoleum, or the adhesives used to bond them).
• High or low areas in the suboor could cause the oated oor to ex causing
squeaking, popping, or other noises. Over time this exing could also cause the
locking system to weaken resulting in gaps or loose boards in the oor.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR MOISTURE
WOOD SUBFLOORS:
• The moisture content of the suboor must be checked using a reputable
manufacturer’s moisture meter. Wood suboors should not exceed a 14% moisture
content, and the moisture variance between the wooden suboor and the new
ooring to be installed should not exceed 4%.
CONCRETE SUBFLOORS:
• When ooring is installed directly to a concrete suboor, one of the following
moisture tests is recommended:
• Calcium Chloride Test (maximum 3.0 pounds)
• Tramex Moisture Meter (maximum reading of 4.5)
• Delmhorst BD2100 Moisture Meter (reading of green/dry)
• RH (Relative Humidity) should not exceed 75% in slab
• Keep documentation of all moisture readings. If results indicate a moisture
problem exists, DO NOT INSTALL THE FLOORING! Most moisture issues can
be corrected easily (sealing, etc.). When corrected, retest the suboor to assure
moisture guidelines have been met.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
• Foam Underlayment
• 6-mil Polyethylene film
(if going over concrete)
• Roberts #1406 T&G Adhesive
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• T-square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Measuring Tape
• Wood Chisel
• Safety Glasses
• Circular or Rip Saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust Mask
• Knee Pads
• Pull Bar
TOOLS NEEDED
OVER WOOD SUBFLOORS
• Roll out underlayment butting the edges following manufacturer’s instructions.
The underlayment used over wood suboors does not require an attached moisture
vapor barrier, nor is a separate layer of 6-mil polyethylene film required.
OVER CONCRETE SUBFLOORS
• Loose-lay 6-mil polyethylene film as a moisture vapor barrier. Overlap the seams
of the poly by 8” and tape the seams with clear packaging tape. Poly should be lapped
up the wall but not touching the sheetrock. Roll out underlayment butting the edges
over the poly film following manufacturer’s instructions.
• NOTE: IF YOU ARE USING AN UNDERLAYMENT THAT CONTAINS A
MOISTURE VAPOR BARRIER ATTACHED, THE SEPARATE 6-MIL POLY LAYER IS
NOT REQUIRED.
LAYING THE FLOOR
• ALL BOARDS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED WITH THE TONGUE
SIDE FACING THE WALL.
• Begin installing the first row in the left corner of the room by laying a board
at on the underlayment. Apply a thin bead of glue in the groove end of the first
board. Align the end of the second board with the first and join these two boards
together by simply pushing straight down on top of the first board. Repeat these
steps to complete the boards in the first row. Usually the last board in the row
will need to be cut to size. If leftover cut pieces are longer than 12”, they can be
used as starter boards for future rows. It is
recommended to weigh down the boards in
the first row until the glued ends have time to
set. Subsequent rows do not have to be glued
as they are installed.
• Insert wood or plastic spacers between
the wall and the boards in the first row to
maintain the required expansion space for
the oating oor. Additional spacers will need to be added along all walls as the
installation progresses to assure that the proper expansion space is allowed around
the perimeter of the room.
• Start the second row by holding the long side of the board at approximately a 45
degree angle to the first board in the first row. Engage the board sides by rotating
the board downward toward the oor while pushing it against the edge of the first
board. Repeat this step for the other boards in the
second row, cutting the last board to size if necessary.
(Note: A tapping block can be helpful when engaging
ooring boards.)
• Install the third row and subsequent rows in the same manner as described above.
Once three rows have been installed, recheck the spacers to be sure they are tight
against the wall. If necessary, adjust the oor to ensure the installation is square.
• The boards in the last row often need to be ripped lengthwise to the needed width
(be sure to allow for the required expansion space). Mark the boards to be ripped to
the correct width including the contours/irregularitiesof the wall as needed.
INSTALLING FLOOR
Tongue Side