Installation Guide

TOOLS NEEDED
GLUEDOWN INSTALLATION
• Urethane adhesive
• Adhesive remover
• Trowel (check adhesive for recommended notch/size)
• Hammer
• Tape Measure
• Safety Glasses
• Chalk line
• Square
• Pencil
• Wood Chisel
• Circular or rip saw
• Jamb Saw
PLEASE SEE PAGE 1 FOR PRE-INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
GENERAL SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
• All suboors must be at to 3/16” per 8’ radius. If suboor prep is required, “high spots”
should be sanded or ground down. Do not sand surfaces such as vinyl or synthetic tiles that
may contain asbestos.
• All suboors must be clean and free of debris.
• Nail or screw any loose areas to prevent squeaking. Suboors should have minimum
deection (vertical movement).
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
• These products can be installed over dry, at wood suboors such as plywood and OSB. If
used over an existing suboor, the thickness of the overlay material must be such as to yield a
total of ¾” suboor thickness.
• Particle board is NOT recommended for staple down installations.
• NOTE: SUBFLOOR IRREGULARITIES THAT CAUSE WOOD FLOORING INSTALLATIONS
TO DEVELOP MOVEMENT OR HOLLOW SPOTS BETWEEN THE SUBFLOOR AND THE
WOOD FLOORING, ARE NOT THE RESULT OF MANUFACTURING DEFECTS AND ARE
NOT COVERED BY WARRANTIES.
SUBFLOOR MOISTURE REQUIREMENTS
• Wooden Suboors should be checked for moisture using a reputable manufacturer’s
moisture meter, designed for use with wood ooring. In general, wood or plywood subooring
should not exceed 14% moisture content, with a maximum moisture variance not to exceed
4% difference between the ooring and suboor.
INSTALLING THE FLOOR
• The clean suboor surface should be covered, wall-to-wall, with 15-lb. asphalt saturated felt
or SVS. Lap the edges of the felt/SVS 4” when positioning. Double the felt/SVS around heating
ducts.
• Flooring should be laid at right angles to the oor joists and, if possible, in the direction of
the longest dimension of the room.
• Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, allowing for expansion space. (Expansion
space should be equivalent to the thickness of the ooring.)
• With the tongue out, lay one row of planks along the length of the working line. The rst row
should be face-nailed and countersunk.
• Subsequent rows should be blind nailed wherever possible. With the proper nailer, nail planks
every 4”- 6” and within 2” of the end joint. Push or gently tap boards ush to the previous row.
Only tap against the tongue; tapping the groove may damage edges.
• Stagger at least 6” between end joints of adjacent board rows. End joints should not repeat
visually across the installed oor. Avoid “H” joints and other discernible patterns.
• Face-nail and countersink nal rows of ooring as necessary.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
• The use of putty to ll small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered normal in
any hardwood installation.
• Hardwood oors should be maintained year round at 35-55% relative humidity and a
temperature between 60-80 degrees. A humidier / de-humidier may be necessary in some
homes to maintain these climate conditions.
PLEASE SEE PAGE 1 FOR PRE-INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
INSTALLING THE FLOOR
• When the decision is made on the direction the boards will run, snap a working line parallel
to the starting wall, allowing the width of a board plus the tongue and expansion space.
(Expansion space should be equivalent to the thickness of the ooring.) Temporarily nail a
straight starter board along the edge of the working line.
• Once the starter board is secured, apply adhesive to the substrate with the proper trowel.
(Flooring may be installed using either a “wet-lay” or “walk-on” method.
• For “wet-lay” installations, ooring is placed into “wet” adhesive; workers do not walk
on ooring during installation. For “walk-on” installations, spread the adhesive and allow the
adhesive to develop “tack”, then begin to install the ooring material.) Spread adhesive up to
and along the working line.
• Install the rst row of planks along the working line with the tongue-side facing the starting
wall. Continue installing subsequent rows, inserting the tongue into the groove of the previous
row. Boards should be engaged by hand. Stagger at least 6 inches between end joints of adjacent
board rows. End joints should not repeat visually across the installed oor. Insure that the
proper expansion space is left at the perimeter of the room.
• As you work, immediately clean any adhesive from the surface of the ooring using mineral
spirits and a soft cloth, being careful not to damage the nish. Lift a plank periodically to check
adhesive transfer. >80% coverage is required.
• After the large part of the room is installed, remove the starter board and complete the
installation. Install moldings and thoroughly clean the oor with an approved Wood Floor
Cleaner. Never cover a newly installed oor with plastic. Always use a breathable material such
as craft paper or cardboard.
IMPORTANT NOTES
• The use of putty to ll small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered normal in
any hardwood installation.
• Hardwood oors should be maintained year round at 35-55% relative humidity and a
temperature between 60-80 degrees. A humidier / de-humidier may be necessary in some
homes to maintain these climate conditions.
INSTALLATION TIP 1
• To assist with the stability of the rst few rows, we recommend that you install the rst
row, then 2 to 3 boards in the second row, then 1 to 2 boards in the third row. Go back to
the second row and install another 2 boards, then 2 boards in the third row. Complete this
“stepping” arrangement until the three rows are complete. Always stagger the end joints
of adjacent rows a minimum of 18”. Try to avoid a “stair-step” pattern when looking across
several rows, and try to avoid “H” patterns in the installation.
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INSTALLATION TIP 2
• In narrow areas (i.e. hallways) where planks will be installed width wise, the planks must
be staggered to incorporate at least one end joint in every other row. Installing same length
boards side by side without this stagger will cause the looring to bow upward.
INCORRECT CORRECT
INSTALLATION TIP 3
• Transition pieces (moldings), and the oor itself, are made from real wood and will exhibit
all the natural variations of the particular species. Every transition piece will not match every
board of ooring. Therefore, the best results will be achieved by identifying boards that are
complimentary to the transition prior to installation, setting the boards aside to be installed
next to the transition.
INSTALLING FLOOR
INSTALLING FLOOR
INSTALLATION TIPS:
Maintain an
18" stagger