Installation Guide

• While installing ooring, it is best to work from several cartons of material to properly blend the
naturally occurring lighter and darker boards to achieve a more uniform oor appearance. In addition, this
will help distribute the random length planks
• Decide the direction the ooring will be installed in the room. If possible, it is best to install
perpendicular to the direction of the ooring joists. Flooring will be accented best if installed parallel to
the largest windows in the room.
• This oating wood oor requires a minimum 1/2” expansion space around the perimeter of the room
to allow for normal expansion and contraction, as well as around any other vertical objects in the room
(cabinets, columns, etc.). In areas larger than 24 ft. length in either direction, an expansion break in the
ooring (covered by T-Molding), or additional expansion space is required. Allow an additional 1/4” space
for every 12 ft. in length above 24 ft. Example: For a 36’x36’ size room, allow 3/4” expansion (normal 1/2”
plus 1/4” expansion for the 12ft. over 24ft.) in both directions.
• Pre-plan the number of rows (based off of board face width). Often the last row will need to be ripped
lengthwise to t. If the measurement for the last row is less than 2” (allowing for required expansion
space), it would best to rip the boards in the rst and last rows to balance the installation. If the ripped
boards have to be narrower than 2”, use a high quality carpenter’s glue to
secure the narrower boards to the wider adjoining planks.
• Remove any base, shoe, or threshold moldings prior to beginning
installation. These can be replaced at the end of the install.
• Under cut door jambs to allow for expansion space and to avoid
difcult scribe cuts. This can be done by using a small piece of the ooring
as a guide/rest for your jamb saw. Expansion breaks (covered by T-Molding)
are recommended in doorway ooring.
• The use of putty to ll small gaps or correct minor defects should be considered normal in any wood
ooring installation. When using putty on low sheen (gloss) wood oors, use a plastic putty knife and
remove excess immediately with a soft cloth to prevent gloss-up of the nish.
TOOLS NEEDED
FLOATING INSTALLATION
• Foam Underlayment
• 6-mil Polyethylene lm (if going over concrete)
• Roberts #1406 T&G Adhesive
• Chalk Line
• 1/2” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• T-square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Measuring Tape
• Wood Chisel
• Safety Glasses
• Circular or Rip Saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust Mask
• Knee Pads
• Pull Bar
TOOLS NEEDED
NAIL/STAPLE INSTALLATION
• 15 lb. Asphalt felt or Roberts Silicone Vapor Shield (SVS)
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• Square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Wood Chisel
• Safety glasses
• Circular or rip saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust mask
• Knee pads
• Pull bar
FOR 3/8”: PNEUMATIC OR MANUAL NAILER/STAPLER
FOR USE WITH 3/8” FLOORS
• 80-85 lb of air pressure
• 1” minimum fastener length
• 20 Gauge
FOR 1/2”: PNEUMATIC OR MANUAL NAILER/STAPLER
FOR USE WITH 1/2” FLOORS
• 80-85 lb of air pressure
• 1-1/4” minimum fastener length
• 18 Gauge
CHECKING SUBFLOOR FLATNESS
• Use a straight edge to determine suboor atness (throughout oor). The suboor should
be at to within 3/16” in an 8’ area.
• High areas need to be sanded and low areas lled. NEVER SAND ANY EXISTING FLOOR
OR ADHESIVE SUSPECTED TO CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR CRYSTALLINE SILICA (such as
resilient vinyl or linoleum, or the adhesives used to bond them).
• High or low areas in the suboor could cause the oated oor to ex causing squeaking,
popping, or other noises. Over time this exing could also cause the locking system to weaken
resulting in gaps or loose boards in the oor.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR MOISTURE
WOOD SUBFLOORS:
• The moisture content of the suboor must be checked using a reputable manufacturer’s
moisture meter. Wood suboors should not exceed a 14% moisture content, and the moisture
variance between the wooden suboor and the new ooring to be installed should not exceed
4%.
CONCRETE SUBFLOORS:
• When ooring is installed directly to a concrete suboor, one of the following moisture
tests is recommended:
• Calcium Chloride Test (maximum 3.0 pounds)
• Tramex Moisture Meter (maximum reading of 4.5)
• Delmhorst BD2100 Moisture Meter (reading of green/dry)
• RH (Relative Humidity) should not exceed 75% in slab
• Keep documentation of all moisture readings. If results indicate a moisture problem exists,
DO NOT INSTALL THE FLOORING! Most moisture issues can be corrected easily (sealing,
etc.). When corrected, retest the suboor to assure moisture guidelines have been met.
• Roll out foam underlayment (follow instructions inside packaging). On a concrete suboor, if you are
using an underlayment that does not have a vapor barrier attached, loose lay 6 mil poly sheeting with
the seams overlapped 8”, taped with clear packaging tape and lapped up the wall but not touching the
sheetrock. Then roll out underlayment, butting edges. For installations over a plywood suboor it is not
necessary to use poly sheeting, and foam underlayment may or may not have a vapor barrier attached.
• Never open the bundles until ready to start the installation process. When the decision is made on
the direction the boards will run, start at one side wall with the rst row of boards allowing an expansion
space along side and end walls with the use of wood wedges (equivalent spacers.) Extra expansion space
is required in large areas (i.e. one room; two rooms with adjoining archways or a room with an extended
hallway) measuring more than 24 linear feet in either direction (width or length). Either install a T-molding
across the width of the room, archway or use an additional 1/4” expansion for each additional 12 linear
feet (i.e. for a 1/2” product in a room that measures 36’ x 36’ you would leave 3/4” expansion around all
vertical surfaces which can be covered by your choice of molding).
SIDE AND END GLUING
• The engineered boards must be side and end glued using wood glue. Apply glue in the groove of each
plank as you install . Begin at the end and ll the entire length of the board. Fully glue the end joint. It is
very important to ll the groove to its full thickness. This will ensure proper transfer to the tongue of the
adjoining planks. Failure to follow proper glue schedule will void all warranties. If any excess glue squeezes
up to the nished surface, wipe off using a paper towel or cloth.
INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
• The boards in the last row will need to be cut to the necessary width. Remember to allow the
appropriate expansion space between the last row and any vertical surface it adjoins. Mark the board to
the correct width and contours of the wall.
• After the oor is completely installed, remove spacers, install molding and thoroughly clean the oor
with an approved Wood Floor Cleaner.
• Never cover a newly installed oor with plastic. Always use a breathable material such as craft paper
or cardboard.
PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING CONTINUED
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
INSTALLING FLOOR