Installation Guide

PAGE 3
Prior to installing the flooring,
secure a straight edge (starter
board) inside the chalk line to
act as a guide and to prevent the
row of planks from shifting
during installation. The
straightedge could be a straight
piece of lumber or piece of
flooring. This is temporary and
will be replaced as the floor is completed. NOTE:
Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows
can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding
rows of flooring.
Before securing the planks, dry lay the first two rows
of flooring working from left to right. Install planks
so that the groove faces the starter board (tongue
facing you).
“Racking the floor” is essential to achieve a random
appearance. The goal is to avoid a patterned
appearance (particularly H patterns) by randomly
installing different lengths. Start by using random-
length planks found in the carton, or by cutting four
or five planks in random lengths, differing by at least
6”. Stagger end joints of boards row to row a
minimum of 6” for strip flooring, 8-10” for 3” to 5”
plank, and for plank wider than 5” inch, stagger as
much as possible with minimal or no H joints. Never
waste materials; the end cuts from starter rows
should be used at the opposite side of the room to
complete rows or to start the next row. If a piece is
less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use that
to start the next row.
Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row.
Make sure that the rows are straight and no gapping
exists on the sides or ends. Once you have dry laid
the first two rows, remove all the planks in order.
You are ready to begin.
If needed, use a tapping block to help engage the
boards together until the tongue-and-groove is flush
and tight and no gaps are present between adjacent
planks. Never strike a rubber mallet or hammer
directly on the flooring to engage the tongue and
groove. This practice can damage the flooring
and/or finish.
Some installers use tape to secure planks during
installation. Use of tape is not recommended as
improper use can damage the flooring. If you choose
to use tape during installation, use only “3M
ScotchBlue™ WALLS + WOOD FLOORS” and
carefully remove it within 24 hours. Do not allow
adhesive contact for a longer duration.
As you approach the end wall, it may be necessary
to cut the width of the last row. Be sure to allow for
the expansion space along the end wall. Once the
final cuts are made, set planks into place.
After the floor layout is complete, remove the starter
board and install the last row using the pry bar.
Adhesive Precautions:
Immediately remove any excess adhesive from the
surface of the installed flooring as you work. Use a clean
cloth dampened with water. DO NOT USE
DENATURED ALCOHOL. Frequently change towels
to avoid leaving a haze on the flooring surface.
CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the finish
can be difficult to remove and may leave a haze. In this
case, use mineral spirits instead of water.
In typical climates, the new floor can accept foot traffic
within 24 hours. In areas where additional curing time is
required, more time may be needed.
GLUE DOWN
INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional tools & material needed:
Urethane Wood Flooring Adhesive
Trowel* Terrycloth Towels Mineral Spirits
* Refer to the Urethane Wood Flooring Adhesive
label, manual or other manufacturer provided
instructions to select the correct trowel.
NOTE: With wood flooring adhesive, you MUST
install the hardwood flooring by using the off the floor
technique. In other words, you MUST be working from
the subfloor and NOT standing or walking on the newly
installed flooring during installation. Failure to follow
this procedure can result in the planks moving during
installation, creating gaps at both end and side joints.
Before proceeding with the following instructions,
refer to the pre-installation & subfloor information,
as well as the sections titled Layout of Flooring” and
“Adhesive Precautions”.
Spreading the Adhesive
1. Using the proper trowel, hold the trowel at a 45°
angle to ensure proper spread rate of adhesive.
Apply pressure to allow the trowel to leave ridges of
adhesive on the substrate with little adhesive left
between the ridges. This will help to achieve the
proper spread rate of the adhesive. Temperature and
air flow across the adhesive can have an effect on the
open time of the adhesive. Urethane wood flooring
adhesive will have a longer open time in areas of low
humidity and will have a shorter open time in areas
of high humidity. (See adhesive label for further
information).
Installing the Floor
2. Once you’ve determined your layout, spread
adhesive from the chalk line / straight edge out to
approximately the width of two planks. Install the
first row of starter planks along the chalk line /
straight edge and secure into position with the
groove facing the starter board (tongue facing you).
3. When you are certain the first two starter rows are
straight and secure, spread adhesive 2-3’ wide across
the length of the room. As a general rule, never
spread more adhesive than can be covered in 30-45
minutes. If the adhesive has skinned over remove
dried adhesive and trowel new adhesive.
4. Continue to install planks and push them into place.
NAIL OR STAPLE DOWN
INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional Tools and Material Needed:
Drill Air Hose 15 lb. Roofer’s Felt
Tapping Block In-Line Air Regulator
Compressor Pneumatic Nailer / Stapler
Narrow crowned staple or flooring cleat
designed for engineered flooring
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against
squeaking, popping, or crackling when using
staple-down or nail down installation methods.
Some squeaking, popping, or cracking is normal
and possible when using staple-down installation
methods. These symptoms may be aggravated in
arid areas or during dry conditions.
Before proceeding with the following instructions,
refer to the pre-installation & subfloor information
as well as the section titled “Layout of Flooring”.
Set Up and Use of Pneumatic
Staplers and Nailers
Minor occasional noises within the flooring are
inherent to all staple / nail-down installations and can
vary as environmental changes occur. This is not a
manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered
under our warranties (see warranty document for
complete details). Reduce squeaking, popping, and
crackling by ensuring that the subfloor is structurally
sound, does not have any loose decking or joists, and is
swept clean prior to installation. Also, ensure that your
stapler or nailer is setting the fastener properly, not
damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct
nailing schedule.
When used improperly, staples or cleats can damage
wood flooring. If the tool is not adjusted properly the
staples / cleats may not be positioned at the proper
angle and cause blistering, peaking, squeaking, or
crackling of the floor. Some models may require the use
of an adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the
tool on a piece of scrap material first - set the stapler /
nailer flush on the tongue side of the plank and install
a staple / cleat. Should the staple / cleat penetrate too
deeply reduce the air pressure; if the staple / cleat is not
deep enough then increase the air pressure using an in-
line regulator. The crown of the staple / cleat should sit
flush within the nail pocket to prevent damage to the
flooring and to reduce squeaking. The flooring
manufacturer is not responsible for damage caused by
mechanical fasteners.
AIR PRESSURE SETTINGS
IMPORTANT: Only use manufacturer's recommended
staples or cleats.
For 3/8” thick products the minimum length staple
/ cleat is 1
For 1/2” thick products the min. length staple /
cleat is 1-1/4”
For 5/8” thick products the min. length
staple/cleat is 1-1/2”
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for
complete set-up and operation of equipment.
Getting Started
1. After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and
prepped, cover the subfloor with 15 lb. asphalt felt
paper. This material will help to keep the floor
clean and help to retard moisture from below (there
is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or
nail-down applications).