™ INSTRUCTION MANUAL Wingspan: 82 in [2085 mm] Wing Area: 1293 sq in [83.4 dm2] Weight: 13-14.5 lb [5850-6575 g] Wing Loading: 23-25 oz/sq ft [70-79 g/dm2] Length: 72 in [1820 mm] Radio: 4-5 channel transmitter, 6-7 servos Engine: 1.60-2.00 cu in [26-33 cc] 2-stroke, 1.20-2.00 cu in [20-33 cc] 4-stroke, 2 cu in [32 cc] gas WARRANTY Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Giant Super Sportster ARF. The Super Sportster is a classic design that has been around for several years, yet its smooth lines and gentle curves make it just as popular now as it was at the start. The Super Sportster is an honest flyer that is relaxing and enjoyable. Its rugged construction makes it a practical plane that is easy to handle, so it should remain in your stable for a long time. Powered by a 1.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model. PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 1.
If you haven’t yet decided whether to use a gas or a glow engine, some of the things to consider are a gas engine’s fuel economy–not only is gasoline cheaper than glow fuel, but gas engines typically burn less fuel as well. Gas engines are also a little “cleaner” in that they usually put out less exhaust residue than a glow engine. On the other hand, for the displacement, glow engines are usually more powerful than gas engines and are also lighter and smaller.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047) Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060) #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105) #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211) #11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311) Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6 mm], 3/32" [2.4 mm], 1/8" [3.2 mm], 5/32" [4 mm], 3/16" [4.
KIT INSPECTION Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list.
for the aileron servos as shown in the sketch. Also cut the covering from the 1/4" [6.5 mm] wing bolt holes, from the slots for the main landing gear wires, and from the holes for the servo wires in the top of both wings near the root ends. PREPARATIONS ❏ 3. Slit the covering up to the corners of the aileron servo openings. Use a trim iron to iron the covering down inside the edges of the servo openings. Refer to the following photos for Steps 4 and 5.
❏ 6. While your trim iron is out, use it to thoroughly seal the covering around the firewall, around the air passage cutout at the firewall under the fuselage, and around the formers at the front and back of the wing saddle. ❏ 7. Mix up a medium-size batch (approximately 1/4 oz [7.5cc]) of 30-minute epoxy for the following three steps. ❏ 10. Spread a thin layer of epoxy over the edges of the covering around the firewall–this will ensure that the covering is thoroughly sealed and fuel-proofed.
Refer to this photo while mounting the servos and hooking up the ailerons. ❏ 2. Stick a T-pin through the middle of all the hinges. Insert four hinges into the hinge slots of each wing. ❏ 3. Without using any glue, join the ailerons to the wings and take out the T-pins. Make sure there is a small gap between the leading edge of each aileron and the wing-just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through. ❏ 2.
Mount the Wing ❏ 1. Fit both wing halves together on the joiner tube. Then, place the wing on the fuselage, keying the dowels into the dowel holes in the former. HOW TO SOLDER ❏ A. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of the pushrod with coarse sandpaper where it is to be soldered. ❏ B. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of the pushrod. Then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat it.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE Join the Stabilizer and Fin ❏ 3. Stick a T-pin into the top of the fuselage centered over the short center mark on the firewall. Tie a loop in an approximately 60" [150 cm] piece of non-elastic string. Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin. ❏ 1. With the wing mounted, temporarily slide the stabilizer into the fuselage. For now, center the stab as best you can by eye. Stand approximately ten feet [3 meters] behind the model and see if the stab aligns horizontally with the wing.
❏ 7. Peel the covering from the middle of the stabilizer. Then ❏ 5. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the fuselage around the top and bottom of both sides of the stab. wipe away the ink with a few of your paper towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol. Finally! Time to glue in the stab… ❏ 6. Follow the method in the Expert Tip that follows, or use a sharp hobby blade to cut the covering from the stab 1/16" [2 mm] inside the lines you marked.
cut and peel off the covering, and then use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin into position. Use a builder’s triangle and if necessary, pull the top of the fin over to one side or the other of the stab. ALIGN THE PUSHROD HOLES WITH THE PIVOT POINT. ❏ 10. After all the epoxy has hardened, join the elevators to the stab and the rudder to the fin with the CA hinges and thin CA. Don’t forget to use T-pins to keep the hinges centered as you fit the elevators and rudder. ❏ 3.
Hint: If you have difficulty getting the blind nuts started in the holes, remove one of the aileron pushrods and use it to pull the blind nuts through with a 4-40 nut. Once the blind nuts are partially stuck, use the 8-32 screw and washers to draw it the rest of the way in. Mount the Engine & Hook Up the Throttle Follow the instructions for the type of engine you are using. (Gas-only instructions are shaded) ❏ 3.
Refer to the following two photos while hooking up the throttle. GAS ENGINE (FUJI BT-32) If mounting a gas engine other than the Fuji BT-32, use these instructions as a guide for mounting your engine in a similar manner. ❏ 1. Drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] pilot holes through the firewall at the four marks for the Fuji Engine. Enlarge the holes with a 1/8" [3.2 mm] drill, followed by a 1/4" [6.4 mm] drill. Note: The Fuji engine mounting holes are centered over the cross marks on the firewall.
Note: A plywood pushrod guide tube mount is supplied with this kit. If the throttle does not align with one of the slotted holes in the former, you could position the pushrod tube outside the slots and use the mount to secure the throttle pushrod tube. Just slip the PUSHROD GUIDE mount over the tube and glue it to the former. TUBE MOUNT ❏ 7. Securely glue the plywood servo tray into position so that the cutout for the throttle servo will be on the same side as the throttle pushrod.
Assemble the Fuel Tank If using a gasoline-powered engine, the fuel tank setup will have to be converted to work with gas using the hardware listed in the front of the manual. Follow these instructions for assembling your fuel tank for the type of engine you are using. GLOW ENGINES ❏ 3. Connect the fuel tubing to the short tubes and the clunks. Be certain tubing is cut to a length so that the clunks will not contact the back of the tank–otherwise they may become stuck.
through the fueling inlet collar. Guide the line through, and then insert the plastic fueling plug and press the end of the line back into the collar. Note: Do not mount the fuel tank in the aft mounting location for glow engine use. Most glow engines will not be able to draw fuel from that far away. Proceed to the next section, Mount the Cowl. Install the Fuel Tank INNER COLLAR (GAS OR GLOW) OUTER COLLAR FUELING LINE COLLAR ❏ 3.
Mount the Cowl Perform step 4A only if you have mounted a glow engine. Perform step 4B only if you have mounted a gas engine. (Remember, “Gas-only” steps are shaded.) Refer to this photo both for Steps 4A and 4B. ❏ 1. This step is necessary only if using a gas engine. If using a glow engine, proceed to step 2. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the firewall for the cowl mounting blocks. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue both hardwood cowl mounting blocks into position where shown.
the carburetor, cut out the template, and then transfer the cutout to a piece of thin cardboard or vanilla folder. Align the cardboard template with the carburetor. Next, tape the template to the fuselage. Remove the carburetor from the engine and mount the cowl. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to draw the carb cutout onto the cowl. ❏ 7. Still holding the cowl, drill another hole into the fuselage through the next cowl screw hole and use another #4 x 5/8" [16 mm] screw to hold the cowl in place.
FINAL ASSEMBLY Mount the Main Landing Gear ❏ 4. With the plane sitting on its main wheels and tail wheel, use a block of balsa or something similar to prop up one of the wheel pants 5/8" [16 mm]. ❏ 1. File a flat spot in both main landing gear wires where shown in the photo. ❏ 5. Fit two mounting straps over the gear. Mark the hole locations in the straps into the wheel pant–we used our Great Planes Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) to mark the holes. ❏ 2.
Finish Radio Installation If using a gas engine, the model will probably require tail weight to get it to balance. If using a glow engine, the model will probably require nose weight to get it to balance. To minimize any additional nose or tail weight that may be required, mount the receiver battery in the aft location for gas engines and in one of the forward locations for glow engines. You could go ahead and mount the battery and receiver now, or do a quick C.G.
❏ 2. Mount the receiver and on/off switch. Connect the servo wires and switch to the receiver and connect the battery to the switch. Extend and guide the receiver antenna through the antenna tube in the fuselage. ❏ 4. Place the canopy on the fuselage and hold it down. Use a fine-point ballpoint pen to accurately mark the outline of the canopy onto the fuselage-do not mark the aft edge of the canopy as it does not get glued down anyway. Finish the Cockpit & Mount the Canopy ❏ 1.
Apply the Decals Set the Control Throws 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet. 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water-about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing.
Balance the Model (C.G.) 5-1/4” [133 mm] More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable. ❏ 2.
Ground Check PREFLIGHT If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full power-indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller. • Make all engine rotating propeller. adjustments from behind Radio Control 1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
• There is no maximum engine displacement limit, as it is the position of this body that an underpowered aircraft presents a greater danger than an overpowered aircraft. However, the selection of engine size relative to airframe strength and power loading mandates good discretionary judgment by the designer and builder. Current AMA maximums for engine displacement are 6.0 cu. in. for twostroke and 9.6 cu. in. for four-stroke engines.
CHECK LIST FLYING The Giant Super Sportster ARF is a great-flying model that flies smoothly and predictably. It does not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots. During the last few moments of preparation your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain checks and procedures that should be performed before the model is flown.
necessary to hold your glide path and airspeed. 3-point landings are done with ease–just continue to increase up elevator, allowing the model to stall at the same time the main gear touches. Once the model is on the runway, hold up elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground. Flight For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.
TEMPLATES SPARK PLUG CUT OUT FOR FUJI BT-32 Instrument Panel CUT OUT ON DOTTED LINE AIR COOLING INLET TEMPLATE DRILL 13/64" [5.2 mm] (OR 3/16" [4.8 mm] HOLES) 1.2-1.
