INSTRUCTION MANUAL Wingspan: 78.5 in [1995mm] Wing Area: 1180 sq in [76 dm2] Weight: 14.25 – 16.5 lb [6500g – 7500g] Wing Loading: 27.8 oz/sq ft [85g/dm2] Length: 70 in [1780mm] Radio: 4-channel minimum (7 to 8 servos) Engine: 1.60 to 2.10 cu in [25 to 35cc] 2-stroke, 2.00 to 3.00 cu in [33 to 50cc] 4-stroke, 2.5 to 3.8 cu in [41 to 65cc] Gas WARRANTY Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
APPENDIX .......................................................................35 FLIGHT TRIMMING..........................................................38 TAIL WHEEL PUSHROD PATTERN................................39 ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATE..........................................39 TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ................................................................2 IMAA ..................................................................................2 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ....................
If you would like photos of the full-size Patty Wagstaff Extra 300S for scale documentation, or if you would like to study the photos to add more scale details, photo packs are available from: WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust may blow back into your eyes.
Radio Equipment ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED The Extra 300S ARF can use a simple 4 to 6-channel radio with several “Y” reversing and non-reversing harnesses or it can use a 6 to 10-channel computer radio. Even though the airplane flies fine with a simple radio, we strongly recommend that a computer radio be installed as this will make it easier to obtain the best performance of all flying styles possible with the Extra 300S ARF.
❏ Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698) ❏ Robart Superstand II (ROBP1402) ❏ Single-sided foam tape (wing seating tape, GPMQ4422) Adhesives & Building Supplies In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the Extra 300S ARF. Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue are recommended.
Following are the colors used on this model and order numbers for six foot rolls. • The Extra 300S ARF is covered with Top Flite MonoKote film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some.
KIT CONTENTS Before starting to build, use the Kit Contents list to take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Great Planes Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS Preparations ❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts of the kit from the box (wings, fuselage, cowl, tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the address or telephone number listed in the front cover. ❏❏ 3. Use a sharp #11 blade to cut a strip of covering from the hinge slots in the wing and aileron. ❏❏ 4. Cut five 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25mm] hinges from the CA hinge strip.
❏ ❏ 8. Feel through the MonoKote covering on the bottom surface of the wing and find the opening for the aileron servo. Cut the covering 1/8" [3.2mm] inside the opening. Use a sealing iron or trim seal tool to seal the covering to the edges of the opening. ❏❏ 11. Install a threaded metal clevis approximately 18 full turns onto one of the 12" [305mm] threaded one end pushrods. Connect the clevis to a large nylon control horn and slip a silicone retainer onto it.
HOW TO SOLDER A. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to remove residual oil from the pushrod. B. Use coarse sandpaper to thoroughly roughen the end of the pushrod where it is to be soldered. C. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat the end of the pushrod. Coat the end of the pushrod with silver solder (GPMR8070) by touching the solder to the pushrod.
Feel through the MonoKote for the stabilizer slot in the aft part of the fuselage. Cut away the MonoKote from the slots on both sides of the fuselage and then seal the edges with a sealing iron or a trim seal tool. ❏ ❏ 16. Find the four white nylon anti-rotation pins. Locate the holes in the wings for the pins. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and glue the anti-rotation pins in place. Once inserted the pins should stick out about 1/2" [13mm].
Once the glue has cured, install the servo tray in place as shown using 6-minute epoxy. The notched side fits against the former. Engine Mounting Preparations ❏ 4. Mix some 30-minute epoxy. Wick some epoxy inside the holes drilled in the previous step. Insert a 1/8" [3.2mm] dowel inside a hole and slide it in and out several times to make sure that it is coated in epoxy. Push the dowel all the way in and cut it so that about 1/8" [3.2mm] of it protrudes. Repeat this step for all the holes.
Install the Engine Both gas and glow engines can be installed on this airplane so two installations will be shown in this instruction book. The first installation shown will be of an O.S.® 1.60 FX (OSMG0661) glow engine. The second installation shown will be of a Fuji BT-50SA (FJIG0050) gas engine. Both engine installations are typical of engines of their respective size and type. Follow this instruction manual step by step if you are installing either of these engines.
[3.4mm]) drill bit. Tap the four holes with an 8-32 tap for the engine bolts. ❏ 6. Install the engine using four 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, four #8 lock washers, and four #8 flat washers. ❏ 9. Cut a large servo arm as shown above, and install it on the throttle servo. Install a 4-40 hex nut and a threaded metal clevis on the threaded end of the 4-40 x 12" [305mm] threaded one end pushrod. Connect the clevis to the throttle servo arm. Slip a clevis retainer onto the pushrod.
above the fuel level and stop the fuel flow. Remember which is the fuel pick-up, vent and fill tubes. You can mark the tubes with a Top Flite Panel Line Pen if you wish. ❏ 11. Cut the fuel line (not included), in three 9" [228mm] length sections. Install the three sections of fuel line on the three fuel tank tubes. Mark the fuel lines so that you know what each one is for. Install the fuel tank in place. Use a #64 rubber band to hold it in place.
❏ 4. Install the engine in place with the hardware recommended ❏ 6. Cut a 36" [914mm] plastic outer pushrod (not included) so that you have one 19" [482mm] and one 17" [432mm] long pieces. Roughen the ends of the outer pushrods and use thin CA to glue them in place as shown in the above image. Leave about 1/4" [6.4mm] of the engine kill pushrod protruding, but cut the throttle pushrod flush with the firewall.
❏ 10. Install a small hardwood block or hardwood dowel at the end of the threaded rod of the second pushrod made in step 6. This block will push the lever kill switch. Insert the plastic inner pushrod into the plastic outer pushrod. Use a Screw-Lock pushrod connector to attach the inner pushrod to the servo arm. Make sure the setup works freely, with no binding. It is a safety device and must be operable at all times. ❏ 8. Reinstall the engine.
the three line system, you will need to route the carburetor line to the carburetor fuel nipple and the vent and fill lines to the front of the firewall. Glue a block of balsa to the firewall and make a hole through it of the size of the vent tube. Slide the vent tube through the balsa block. Plug the fill tube with an Aluminum Plug. Make sure the fill tube is long enough so that it can be pulled out of the cowl to fill the tank.
will need to make holes for the slider kill switch, the gas fill line, the carburetor choke, and the muffler. ❏ 5. Use the paper strips over the cowl to find the location of the hardwood blocks and drill at the center of the block, through the cowl into the hardwood blocks with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Remember to drill all five cowl holes at the same time without moving the cowl. ❏ 8.
align the arrow with one corner of the stab as shown in the photo. Swing the string over to the same position on the other corner of the stab. Rotate the stab and slide the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with both sides. Be certain the stab remains centered from side-to-side during this process. ❏ 2. Mount the wing. Stand five to ten feet behind the model and view the stab and the wing. The wing and stab should line up.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA ❏ 9. Remove the stabilizer outer panels from the fuselage. Feel through the MonoKote on the bottom surface of the stabilizer and find the openings for the elevator servos. Cut the covering 1/8" [3.2 mm] inside the opening. Use a sealing iron or trim seal tool to seal the covering to the edges of the opening. Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the wing. The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best.
not drill through the other side of the elevator. Wick some thin CA into the holes and re-install the control horn using four #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screws. Tighten the hex nut against the threaded clevis. Repeat this procedure for the other elevator. ❏ 14. Feel through the MonoKote for the rudder servo cut outs in the aft fuselage. There should be one on each side of the aft fuselage. Cut the covering 1/8" [3.2mm] inside the opening.
❏ 17. Use the same procedure described on steps 11, 12, and 13 of the elevator pushrod setup to make the rudder pushrods except that the rudder pushrods need to be 6-1/2" [165mm] long when cut and 8-1/2" [216mm] after they are assembled and ready to be installed onto the servo arm. Remember to install the hex nuts and clevis retainers. Make two pushrods. ❏ 2. Insert the tail wheel wire into the hole. Find two “U” shaped nylon straps and place them over the wire as shown.
❏ 5. Cut two 1-1/2" [38mm] lengths of silicone tubing. Remove the threaded clevis from the rudder pushrod that is on the same side where the tail wheel pushrod is installed (you may choose to install the tail wheel pushrod on either side of the rudder). Slip a 1/8" [3.2mm] wheel collar, a 1-1/2" [38mm] piece of silicone fuel tubing, an aileron torque rod horn, another silicone fuel tubing piece and another 1/8" [3.2mm] wheel collar over the pushrod.
❏ 10. Look carefully at the wheel pants. Locate a dimple that indicates the wheel axle location on the side of the wheel pant. Use a high speed rotary tool to drill a 1/2" [13mm] hole at the mark. Make sure you make a right wheel pant and a left wheel pant. ❏ 14. Mount the wheel and wheel pant to the axle with two #8 washers, and a wheel collar. Temporarily tighten the set screw in the wheel collar. Do this for both wheel pants. ❏ 11.
❏ ❏ 2. Drill a small hole at the bottom of the fuselage and route the receiver antenna to the rear of the airplane. Use a rubber band to keep it stretched. Make sure you use a strain relief inside the fuselage. 17. Remove the wheel pants from the axle and wick some thin CA into the holes you just drilled. Permanently install the wheel pants and wheels in place using two #4 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal screws for the wheel pants and the previously mentioned two #8 washers and one 3/16" [4.
Finish the Cockpit Apply the Decals 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet. ❏ 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing.
diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary. Balance the Model (C.G.) More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful.
the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don’t attach weight to the cowl–it is not intended to support weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the model balances. Once you have determined the amount of weight required, it can be permanently attached.
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash. AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt) Read and abide by the following Academy of Model Aeronautics Official Safety Code: GENERAL 1.
multi-winged model aircraft and have a ramp weight (fueled and ready to fly) of 55 lbs. or less. Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the loads that the control surfaces impose upon the servos. Standard servos are not recommended for control surfaces. Servos should be rated heavy-duty. For flight-critical control functions a minimum of 45 inch/ounces of torque should be considered.
❏ 3. Tube-in-tube (nyrod). Bracing every few inches is highly recommended. Inner tube should be totally enclosed in outer tube. 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction and the throws are set up according to the manual. ❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the screws included with your radio. ❏ 12.
Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds. Add power to see how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
will need to be throttle conscious; that is, never apply full throttle on straight and level flying or in dives to prevent flutter. Why only adjust ATV slightly? Control linkages are really just a lesson in leverage. The less distance the servo is moving for a given throw at the surface, the less leverage you have given the servo to do the job. Thus the lower you set the ATV the less power you are leaving for the servo to apply to the surface.
Make a copy of the identification tag shown below and place it on or inside the model. At this point the model is statically trimmed. It’s only a starting point, so don’t be surprised if you wind up changing it all. One other critical feature is that the ailerons must have their hinge gap sealed. If shoving some Scotch tape or MonoKote into the hinge gap to prevent the air from slipping from the top of the wing to the bottom, and vice-versa, bothers you, then don’t do it.
off the controls. The model should go a reasonable distance with the fuse at an even keel. If the nose pitches down, remove some nose weight, and the opposite if the nose pitches up. The trick is to use only the ailerons to get the model up at a 45° bank. We almost automatically start feeding in elevator, but that’s a no-no. Do the bank in both directions, just to make sure that you are getting an accurate reading of the longitudinal balance.
quickly and easily measure actual throws first, so you can make necessary corrections before you fly. Large, no-slip rubber feet provide a firm grip on covered surfaces without denting or marring the finish. Spring tension holds AccuThrow’s plastic ruler steady by each control surface. Curved to match control motions, the ruler provides exact readings in both standard or metric measurements. GPMR2405 Great Planes Ryan STA-M 1.20 ARF The Ryan STA-M was the Army Air Corps’ first monoplane trainer.
TRIM FEATURE MANEUVERS OBSERVATIONS CORRECTIONS CONTROL CENTERING Fly general circles and random maneuvers. Try for hands off straight and level flight. Readjust linkages so that Tx trims are centered. CONTROL THROWS Random maneuvers A. Too sensitive, jerky controls. B. Not sufficient control. If A, change linkages to reduce throws. If B, increase throws. ENGINE THRUST ANGLE1 From straight flight, chop throttle quickly. A. Aircraft continues level path for short distance. B.
BUILDING NOTES Kit Purchased Date: _______________________ Date Construction Finished: _________________ Where Purchased:_________________________ Finished Weight: __________________________ Date Construction Started: __________________ Date of First Flight: ________________________ FLIGHT LOG TAIL WHEEL PUSHROD PATTERN ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATE EM218 BOLT PATTERN USE 10-32 BOLTS AND BLIND NUTS IN A TYPICAL INSTALLATION 39
