User Manual
21
its original position. Also, without the GUIDING HAND in place, you will be unable to control the
direction of the camera. It is possible however, to use just your GUIDING HAND while it is guiding the
CENTER POST to control both the SLED and ARM at the same time, but this is not recommended.
As a reference in learning the best positions to use your SLED, you should think of your waist like a
clock, with your navel being at 12 o'clock, your center back at 6 o'clock, your left hip at 9 o'clock, and
your right hip at 3 o'clock.
For most shooting situations you will want to place the CENTER POST of the SLED on your left side at,
or between the 9 and 11 o'clock positions. If you need to move through a narrow hallway, or doorway,
then you might need to move the SLED in front of you to the 11 or 12 o'clock position. You can change
the position of the SLED during shooting by simply using your right HOLDING HAND to move the end
of the ARM and consequently the SLED to the position you desire.
A typical shot might start with the SLED in the 10 o'clock position, with the SLED close to your body,
then as you travel through a doorway you would move the SLED to the 11 or 12 o'clock position, with the
SLED away from your stomach, and when you clear the door frame you might return the SLED to the 10
o'clock position, with the SLED close to your body. During a typical shot you might also boom the
FOREARM up and/or down depending on the framing requirements of the shot.
When the SLED is in front of you, you will need to keep it far enough away from your body so you don't
end up bumping your legs into it. When the SLED is by the left side of your body you should try to keep
it as close to your body as possible without either the SLED, or the ARM touching you. The reason to
keep the SLED as close to your body as possible during most shooting is to reduce the amount of fatigue
on your body and back. When the SLED is near to your own body's center of gravity it becomes a lot
easier to shoot for longer periods of time. Also, when you move the SLED away from your body you
might find it easier on your back if you lean backwards a bit. This can be especially true with heavier
cameras.
It is possible to shoot smooth shots with your GOLD SLED with the ARM and SLED in a wide variety of
positions, but the above mentioned positions are generally best for most shooting situations. After you get
accustomed to using the GOLD SLED you will inevitably find SLED positions that work best for you.
NOTE: Always keep the SLED as VERTICAL as possible during shooting, except for when you
intentionally want the SLED to be TILTED, PANNED, or ROLLED.
NOTE: The main concern when shooting with the GOLD SLED is to be aware of your shooting
frame's HORIZONTAL ALIGNMENT. One of the main things which can make a shot look
unstable is when the CAMERA appears to be tipping over to either its left, or right side. This
tipping motion is also called ROLL. ROLL is very different from a PAN, or a TILT, because when
a CAMERA is PANNED and TILTED its frame's HORIZONTAL ALIGNMENT is not effected.
So therefore, with the exception of an intentional SLED ROLL, virtually all of your shots should be
executed in a way that is completely free of SLED ROLL. SLED ROLL is very much like
CAMERA ROLL, except that with SLED ROLL the center of rotation is within the GIMBAL.
CAMERA ROLL is when a CAMERA rotates around the axis that runs through the center of the
lens' length.
Also, when shooting with the GOLD SLED you do not always have to have the CAMERA facing in the
same direction that your body is facing. Sometimes it is a lot easier, and a lot more comfortable to have