Owners manual

Installation Instructions
NOTE: Installation of these headers requires an adequate workspace, general mechanic’s
tools, general mechanical “know-how” and a few special tools. However, you should carefully
read these instructions before attempting to install these headers. If in doubt, consult a
professional mechanic.
DO NOT INSTALL THESE HEADERS OVER THE TOP OF THE
FACTORY SPARK PLUG WIRE HOLDERS WHICH ARE BOLTED TO THE
HEAD. OTHERWISE THE HEADERS WILL NOT SEAL!!!!
1. Place vehicle in a location where the floor is solid and flat, with adequate lighting. Do not
Attempt to work on a hot engine. Heat causes metal to expand and makes removal of
fasteners difficult at best. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Raise the front of
the vehicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use large-
base jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent
the vehicle from rolling off the jack stands.
2. Begin with the driver’s side. Spray WD-40 or some type of penetrating oil on all accessible
fasteners and fittings before attempting to remove them. From the bottom side, unbolt the
spring-loaded bottom flange nuts (where the manifold connects to the exhaust system).
The stock nuts are intentionally deformed to prevent them from prematurely loosening.
This also makes removal difficult. Apply as much torque as necessary to remove the nuts.
The nuts may not turn and the stud may begin to unthread from the manifold. This is a
problem because the studs have shoulders which will not pull through the exhaust flange.
If the stud comes loose, reverse your wrench and tighten the stud back into the manifold
solidly. Try again to remove the nuts. If the nuts are still jammed on, apply heat to the nut
with an acetylene torch. Try again to remove the nuts. If all else fails cut the nuts off. The
Headers are supplied with new bolts and nuts for reinstallation.
3. On the topside: Unbolt the spark plug wire looms from the cylinder heads. Do not skip
this step. Otherwise the spark plug looms will hold the head flange out, away from the
head, preventing the headers from sealing. Disconnect the spark plug wires by grasping
and gently twisting the spark plug wire boots. Do not pull on the wires. Set the wires and
looms up out of the way. Brush or blow away any debris which may have collected around
the manifolds and spark plugs. This will help prevent foreign matter from entering the
combustion chambers when the manifolds are removed. Removal of the spark plugs is not
necessary, but it may avoid accidental spark plug breakage.
4. Remove the EGR hose from the rear of the Manifold. (Use an open-end wrench.) Remove
the 4 bolts and 2 studs holding the manifold to the head. Using a small wire brush or other
instrument, remove any carbon deposits left on the exhaust flange mating surface of the
head. Thoroughly clean the surface with solvent or another cleaner. Remove the
doughnut-shaped gasket from the lower flange (where the manifold bolts to the exhaust
system). The headers use a steel dome in place of the gasket. Remove any excess
carbon deposits from the lower flange.
5. Optional: Prepare the header bolts by applying anti-seize to the threads. Small head
3/8” x 1” bolts & lock-washers included. Apply a thin coat of high temp sealant to both sides
of the header gasket (Gasket included). Permatex Ultra-Copper High-Temp Sealant is
recommended. DO NOT use a sealant that is not designed to be used with 02
sensors. (Also note that if excessive sealant is applied, clumps may fall into the exhaust
system and clog the Catalytic Converter.) Apply a thin coating of sealant to the supplied
bolts and lock washers. Torque all 6 fasteners to approximately 30-35ft. lbs. Re-install
EGR hose.