ABOUT THIS MANUAL This manual explains how to ride your new bike safely, and how to maintain your bicycle to keep it operating safely. Every person, prior to riding this bicycle, should read at least Chapter 1 of this manual. Parents should explain Chapter 1 to a child, or anyone else, who is otherwise not able to understand this information.
YOUR GARY FISHER BICYCLE Thank you for buying a Gary Fisher bicycle. Your bicycle meets the highest safety and performance standards. You have chosen the size and model that meets your needs, and your Gary Fisher dealer has assembled and adjusted it. Assembly and the first adjustment of your Gary Fisher® bicycle take special tools and skills, so this should only be done by an authorized Gary Fisher bicycle dealer.
DEFINITIONS In this manual, the Warning sign indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury. WARNING In this manual, the Caution sign indicates a potentially hazardous situation or unsafe practice which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury. CAUTION Bold letters indicate important text, or points to note. Examples include OPEN or CLOSED. Italicized letters indicate a reference to another section within the manual.
Wear, fatigue, maintenance, and hard use can decrease the life and safety of your bicycle. Bicycles are not indestructible: as with anything mechanical, every part of a bicycle has a limited useful life due to wear, stress, and fatigue. Fatigue refers to a low-stress force that, when repeated over a large number of cycles, can cause a material to fail or break. The length of the life of a part varies according to its design, materials, use, and maintenance.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter 1 Guide to Safe On-and-Off Road Operation IMPORTANT! Read this chapter before you ride Make sure your bicycle fits you properly .......................... 1 Know how your bicycle performs ................................... 1-2 Before every ride: Check your bike ................................ 3-9 During every ride: Ride safely. ................................... 10-13 Before, during, & after every ride: Take care of your bike...................................................
IMPORTANT! READ THIS CHAPTER BEFORE YOU RIDE A bicycle is smaller and less powerful than other vehicles, so safety cannot be overemphasized. This chapter contains suggestions that will help you ride as safely as possible. Read this entire chapter before you ride your new Gary Fisher bicycle. Before your first ride: page Make sure your bicycle fits you properly........................... 1 Know how your bicycle performs. ..................................
BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE Make sure your bicycle fits you properly. Your Gary Fisher dealer should fit you with the proper size of bicycle. Make sure there is adequate top tube clearance. There should be at least one inch (25mm) clearance between the top tube and the rider when standing over the bicycle (Figure 1.1). For mountain bikes, two to three inches (50-75mm) clearance is recommended. Some models have maximum weight limits: Tricycle 80lbs. (36kg.) Adjust the seat and handlebar.
Prevent contact of the toe-clip and front wheel. Figure 1.2 Toe-clip overlap When riding slowly, do not pedal if the handlebar is turned. Modern, high-performance bicycles use a short-wheelbase design, with the front wheel close to the pedals. It may be possible at very slow speeds when the handlebar is turned for your foot or toe-clips to contact the front wheel, or fender (Figure 1.2). At normal riding speeds the handlebar does not turn enough for this to occur.
BEFORE EVERY RIDE: CHECK YOUR BIKE Before each ride, check your bike and its components against the following checklist. The following information explains how to perform these checks. This is not a comprehensive maintenance program. If you are not certain if your bike has a problem, take your bike to your Gary Fisher dealer for service. Checklist: Before every ride Check that your wheels are straight. Check your tire inflation. Check your brakes. Check attachment of both wheels.
Check your brakes. Gary Fisher bikes come with a variety of types of brakes: • Hand-rim brakes, where a brake lever, connected to the brake by a cable, causes the brake pads to squeeze the rim. • Disc brakes, where a hand lever connected to the brake squeezes a disc mounted on the wheel hub. • Internal drum or roller brakes, where a hand lever operates a brake inside the hub. • Coaster brakes, where the brake is engaged by pedaling backwards.
can be pulled to the handlebar, the brake is too loose. The brake pads should be 0.25 to 0.75 mm away from the disc when the brakes are not applied. If the pads are too close, the brake is too tight, or mis-aligned. Hard braking causes the disc, and the brake caliper, to get hot. After braking, do not touch the disc for at least 30 minutes. As with other rotating parts on a bicycle, avoid placing your fingers in the disc. CAUTION Disc brakes and discs get very hot during use and could burn skin.
���� Check the attachment of both wheels. To be ridden safely, the wheels of your bicycle Lever must be firmly attached to the frame and fork. Bicycle wheels are attached by either threaded axle nuts or a quick-release, a lever-actuated wheel retention mechanism (Figure 1.7) that allows the wheel to be installed and removed without tools. For wheels attached with axle nuts, see page 8. ������ Figure 1.
5. If the lever is moved to the CLOSED position with little or no resistance, clamping strength is insufficient. Return the lever to the OPEN position, tighten the quick-release adjusting nut further and close the lever, and again test for resistance. For further information on correct adjustment of the quick-release tension, read Figure 1.12. 6.
Toothed washer Threaded axle-nut wheel retention If your bicycle is equipped with threaded axlenuts instead of quick-release mechanisms, make sure the axle nuts are tightened correctly: • Front wheel: 180-240 lb•in (20.3-27.1 Nm) • Rear wheel: 240-300 lb•in (27.1-33.9 Nm) Figure 1.15 Toothed washer For each wheel, test to ensure that you have properly tightened the axle-nuts.
Check your handlebars and stem for signs of stress or fatigue. Carefully inspect your handlebars and stem for signs of fatigue: scratches, cracks, dents, deformation, or discoloration. If any part shows signs of damage or fatigue, replace the part before riding the bicycle. Also check that the handlebar plugs are properly inserted into both ends of the handlebars, and bar-ends.
DURING EVERY RIDE: RIDE SAFELY Wear a helmet. An unprotected head is highly susceptible to injury, even from the slightest contact, but wearing a helmet that meets CPSC or CE safety testing standards (Figure 1.16) may help prevent injury. Eye protection and appropriate cycling clothes are also recommended. Helmets should be removed when not riding the bicycle. If the helmet is caught or stuck on or between objects, the wearer could choke. Figure 1.
Ride defensively. To motorists, pedestrians, or other bicyclists, you are not as visible as a car. Always watch for hazardous situations, and be ready to stop or take evasive action at all times. �� Watch the road or trail. Watch for, and avoid, potholes, drain grates, soft or low shoulders, and other deviations which could cause your wheels to slip or create an impact. When crossing railroad tracks or drain grates, do so carefully at a 90° angle (Figure 1.17).
Avoid introducing water to any bearings of your bicycle. The metal bearings in your bicycle allow the parts to rotate smoothly. Water in contact with metal causes corrosion, which will make the bearings lose their smoothness. If any bearings on your bicycle get submerged in water, take your bicycle to your Gary Fisher dealer for service. Avoid high-pressure washing systems, like those at most car washes. The high pressure may force water into the bearings. Use your brakes carefully. Figure 1.
Use special care when off-road riding. • Ride only on the trails. • Avoid rocks, branches, or depressions. • Never ride a road or touring bike on unpaved roads, trails, or off-road. • Wear protective clothing including helmet, eye protection, and gloves. • When approaching a descent, reduce your speed, keep your weight back and low, and use the rear brake more than the front. Avoid undue stress to your bicycle.
BEFORE, DURING, OR AFTER EVERY RIDE: TAKE CARE OF YOUR BIKE Keep your bicycle clean. To work properly, your bicycle must be clean. If your frame or a component is dirty, clean it with a soft, damp cloth and Wrench Force® bike cleaner or a similar product. Avoid leaving your bicycle out in the weather. When not riding, store your bike where it will be protected from rain, snow, sun, etc. Rain or snow may cause the metal on your bicycle to corrode.
drivetrain. Don’t let the bike fall down, as this may cut the handlebar grips, or tear the seat. Incorrect use of bike racks may bend your wheels, as can riding over some obstacles. These are just a few of the potential hazards you and your bike may encounter. If you suspect your bicycle has been damaged in any way, or tampered with, ensure there is no problem, or take it to your Gary Fisher dealer for inspection and repair. Use good shifting techniques.
Prevent handlebar impact damage to your frame. With some bicycles, as the front wheel turns to extreme angles, the handlebar may contact the frame. Prevent damage from handlebar impact by padding the handlebar parts, the frame, or both, at the points of contact. See your Gary Fisher dealer for recommended protection devices or materials. Never modify your fork, frame, or components. Modifying the parts of your bike in any way, including the frame, fork, and all the components, may make your bike unsafe.
USE YOUR PEDAL SYSTEM SAFELY Use pedal systems to keep your feet from slipping off the pedals. The pedals are where your feet are placed on a bicycle; control and safety demand that your feet be secure on the pedals. For recreational riding on smooth surfaces, this requires only a pair of soft-soled shoes. As you ride harder, or the riding surface gets rough, pedal systems can help to keep the rider's feet on the pedals. There are several types of pedal systems on Fisher bikes.
Use proper shoes with toe-clips. Do not allow your feet to become entrapped in the toe-clips or straps. Use shoes which allow your foot to easily pass by the toe strap; do not use shoes with wide, heavily patterned soles. Always adjust the toe strap length with the buckle (Figure 1.19) to allow quick removal of your feet from the pedals. To enter toe-clips Figure 1.19 Loosening the toe strap 1. Straddle the bike. 2. With your left foot on the ground, move the right crank arm to its two o’clock position.
one shoe from the pedals before bringing the bicycle to a complete stop. Use only the cleats supplied by, or approved by, the pedal manufacturer. Cleats from other pedal systems may not release properly. Install and adjust cleats and pedals correctly. Before attempting to engage your cleated shoe into the pedal, always clean both the cleats and the pedals. Debris or contamination in the pedals, or on the cleats, may interfere with entry or exit of clipless pedals.
SUPERVISE YOUR CYCLING CHILD Your supervision of your children as they learn about bikes, safety, and cycling rules of the road is critical to your children’s education (Figure 1.25). Explain the material in this section, Chapter 1, to your child before he or she enters the world of cycling. And instill in your children this cardinal rule for all young cyclists: Children should wear a helmet whenever they ride a bicycle or tricycle. Figure 1.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE Frequency Service Required page Every ride Check that your wheels are straight ................................. 3 Check your tire inflation.................................................... 3 Check your brakes ............................................................. 4 Check attachment of both wheels................................... 6-8 Check your handlebar and stem for signs of stress or fatigue ......................................................................
Inspect and lubricate brake levers................. 51, 53, 56, 59 Inspect reflectors ............................................................. 68 Every year Lubricate handlebar stem ........................................... 26-27 Lubricate seatpost............................................................ 31 Re-grease pedal threads and bearings ............................ 34 Re-grease bottom bracket bearings................................. 34 Re-grease wheel bearings ............................
INSPECTION, ADJUSTMENT, AND LUBRICATION page A word about torque specifications ................................. 23 Handlebars, bar-ends, and stem ................................. 24-28 Seat and seatpost ........................................................ 29-31 Drivetrain- pedals, crank, chain, and cassette ........... 32-34 Derailleur shift systems.............................................. 35-39 Internal shift systems ................................................. 40-45 Headset and fork.....
HANDLEBARS, BAR-ENDS, AND STEM Stem expander bolt Handlebar clamp bolts Angle adjusting bolt Figure 3.1.1 Adjustable-rise quill stem Steerer clamp bolts The handlebars, the part you hold with your hands when riding a bicycle, is primarily responsible for your ability to steer and control the bike. In addition, handlebars work with the seat to define your posture on the bike, adding comfort and efficiency to your cycling. The handlebars are connected to the bike by the stem (Figures 3.1.13.1.4).
- forged stems: 150-180 lb•in (17-20.3 Nm) - 4-bolt BMX stems: 80-100 lb•in (9-11.3 Nm). • Steerer clamp on direct-connect stems: - mountain bike (Figure 3.1.2): 100-120 lb•in (11.3-13.6 Nm). - BMX: 145 lb•in (16.4 Nm). • Bar-end clamp (Figure 3.1.6): 85-125 lb•in (9.6-14.1 Nm) • Stem angle adjustment (Figure 3.1.1 and 3.1.4): 150-170 lb•in (17-20.3 Nm) Bar-ends Never allow your bar-ends to come in contact with objects which may cause you to lose control of your bicycle.
To change the angle of an adjustable-rise stem There are two types of these stems: Figure 3.1.1 and Figure 3.1.4. 1. Loosen the angle adjusting bolt(s) until the stem can be rotated. 2. Position the stem to the desired angle. 3. Tighten the angle adjusting bolt as shown in Inspection. To change the handlebar height with a quill stem Adjusting the handlebar height on a direct-connect stem affects the headset bearing adjustment.
3. Apply a thin layer of Wrench Force® synthetic grease or a similar lubrication to the section of the quill that will be inserted into the frame, including the stem wedge. 4. Insert the stem into the frame, and follow the instructions To change the handlebar height with a quill stem. Installation and use of Bar-Keeper accessories The Bar-Keeper handlebar system is designed to accept the attachment of a variety of custom accessories.
Mounting bolt To install the Bar-Tab This attachment is used to attach a water bottle mount to the Bar-Keeper accessory rail. 1. Insert the head of the Bar-Tab mounting bolt (Figure 3.1.9) into the left end of the Bar-Keeper channel (Figure 3.1.8). Thumbwheel 2. Slide the mounting bolt to the desired Figure 3.1.9 Bar-Tab mounting location and tighten the thumbwheel. diagram 3. Make sure the Bar-Tab does not move on the Bar-Keeper. 4.
SEAT AND SEATPOST The seat, the part you sit on when riding a bike, is held in place by the seatpost (Figure 3.2.1). The seatpost binder secures the seatpost in the frame. Proper adjustment of each component is important for your comfort and pedaling efficiency. This section explains how to inspect, adjust, and lubricate your seat, seatpost, and seatpost binder.
The correct adjustment of the seat angle is largely a matter of personal preference; first try riding with the top of the seat parallel to the ground. For bikes with rear suspension, try tilting the seat nose down slightly so that compression of the rear shock under your body weight (sag) results in a flat seat. The seat may also be moved forward or backward along the seatpost to increase comfort as well as adjust the distance to the handlebars.
4. Extend the seatpost until, with your heel resting on the bottom pedal (Figure 3.2.3), your extended leg is straight. When wearing your shoes there should be a slight bend in your knee in a proper riding position; with the ball of your foot on the pedal. 5. Make sure the minimum insertion mark (Figure 3.2.4) on the seatpost is not visible above the bike frame. A minimum of 2 1/2 inches (64 mm) of seatpost must remain in the frame. 6.
DRIVETRAIN: PEDALS, CRANK, CHAIN, AND CASSETTE Cassette Crank bolt Chain Chainring Pedal The drivetrain (Figure 3.3.1) consists of the parts of the bicycle that transmit power to the rear wheel: • Pedals (and toe-clip assemblies on some models) • Crankset- left and right crank arms, chainring(s), and bottom bracket (the axle and bearings on which the crankset rotates). • Chain • Cassette, or freewheel. This section explains how to inspect, adjust, and lubricate your drivetrain.
with your hand. If you feel any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings, have your pedal adjusted, re-greased, or replaced by your Gary Fisher dealer. Every 3 months inspect the crankset, check the bottom bracket adjustment, and tighten the crank bolts: • Crank bolts -single 6 or 8mm bolt on each arm: 350-435 lb•in (39.549.2 Nm) -double pinch bolts on each arm (Figure 3.3.3) : 88-132 Lb•in (10-15 Nm) • Chainring bolts: 70-95 lb•in (7.9-10.7 Nm) Crank bolt Figure 3.3.
To change the crank length, remove the pedals and install them into the second set of holes (Figure 3.3.4). Adjustment of any bearings in the drivetrain including the bottom bracket, cassette, or pedals, requires special tools and training. These services should only be performed by your Gary Fisher dealer. To adjust the chain tension on a single speed bike 1. Gradually loosen the rear wheel axle nuts on alternate sides of the wheel. 2.
DERAILLEUR SHIFT SYSTEMS Derailleur Shifting Systems Some Gary Fisher bikes are equipped with a derailleur shifting system that changes gears by de-railing the chain, pulling it off one cog or sprocket onto another. The shift system consists of those parts of the bicycle which allows the derailleur to shift gears, including the front derailleur (Figure 3.4.1) or rear derailleur (Figure 3.4.2), the shifters (Figures 3.4.3-3.4.4), and the shift cables.
shifted, the front derailleur should shift the chain from a larger chainring to a smaller one. When up-shifted, the derailleur should shift the chain from a smaller chainring to a larger one. After the shift, by moving the shifter slightly, you should be able to position the front derailleur such that it does not rub on the chain. The chain should not fall off the inner-most or outermost chainrings at any time. Once a month check the operation of the right shift levers/ rear derailleur.
3. While hand-turning the cranks, use the shifter to carefully shift the chain onto the outside chainring. 4. With the shifter, position the outer chain guide of the front derailleur approximately 0.5 mm from the chain. 5. Re-tighten the high gear adjusting screw until it meets resistance. If you have turned the screw too far, the front derailleur will move toward the small chainring. Check your adjustments; go through the various gear combinations.
To adjust the high gear position of the rear derailleur Figure 3.4.7 Outer limiting screw effects (high gear) 1. Shift the chain onto the smallest rear cog and the largest front chainring. 2. Loosen the cable clamp bolt (Figure 3.4.2) until the cable is free. 3. Stand behind the bicycle to see that the smallest rear cog, the chain, and the two derailleur pulleys are in line. 4. If they are not aligned, turn the high gear adjusting screw (usually marked “H”, Figure 3.4.7) until this line is established. 5.
2. Shift the rear shifter one click. 3. Check if the chain moves smoothly to the next gear. 4. If the chain makes excessive noise or does not shift, turn the barrel-adjuster counter-clockwise in small increments and check again for a smooth shift. If instead, the chain moves to the third smallest cog, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until alignment with the derailleur pulleys and the second smallest cog is achieved.
INTERNAL SHIFT SYSTEMS Introduction Some Fisher bicycles are equipped with an internal shift system, where gear changes are made inside the rear hub.
housing before riding your bicycle by following these instructions, or take your bike to your Gary Fisher dealer for service. Adjustment To adjust the rear shifting 1. Rotate the shifter to the 4th gear position. 2. Align the indicator on the rear hub pulley with the cog joint bracket (Figure 3.5.1) 3. If the red lines do not line up, adjust the gear cable tension by rotating the barrel adjuster (Figure 3.5.2) until this alignment is achieved. 4.
3 speed shift system The internal shift system consists of those parts of the bicycle which allow you to shift gears including the shifter, rear hub, and shift cable. The shifting mechanism is enclosed, keeping the shifting system lubricated for low maintenance. These instructions explain how to inspect, adjust, and lubricate an internal shift system. Set screw Inspection Figure 3.5.3 Bell crank cover and set screw Bell crank window Set screw Figure 3.5.
To replace the shift cable 1. Remove the bell crank cover set screw (Figure 3.5.4). 2. Remove the bell crank cover. 3. Loosen the cable fixing bolt (Figure 3.5.6). 4. Note the path of the old cable, and remove the cable. 4. Install a new cable in the shifter, housing, and cable guides, following the old path. 5. Re-attach the cable fixing bolt. Figure 3.56 clamp bolt 6. Re-attach the cover on the bell crank. 7.
DualDrive shift system Mode indicators (Uphill) Thumb shifter Figure 3.5.7 DualDrive shifter The DualDrive shift system combines an internal shift hub with an external derailleur shifting system, consisting of those parts of the bicycle which allow you to shift gears including the shifter, rear hub, cassette, rear derailleur, and shift cables. The derailleur portion of the DualDrive system is a regular rear derailleur, explained on pages 35-39.
To remove the rear wheel 1. With the derailleur, shift the chain to the smallest rear cog. 2. Shift the rear hub to Uphill mode. 3. Push the Clickbox button (Figure 3.5.8) down. 4. Pull the Clickbox off the rear axle. 5. Screw out the shifting rod (Figure 3.5.9). 6. Follow the instructions To remove a wheel on page 67. Figure 3.5.9 DualDrive shifting rod and rear axle washers To install the rear wheel 1. Follow the instructions To install a wheel on page 67. 2. Screw in the shifting rod. 3.
HEADSET AND FORK The headset (Figure 3.6.1) is the bearing system that allows rotation of the fork, stem, and handlebars, allowing you to steer the bike. These instructions explain inspection, lubrication, and adjustment of the headset and fork. If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension fork, also refer to Suspension Systems on page 77. Upper headset bearing cup Lower headset bearing cup Inspection Once a month inspect the headset of your bicycle to see that it is not loose, nor too tight.
BRAKE SYSTEMS The brake system allows you to slow or stop your bike, a function critical to your safety. These instructions explain how to inspect, adjust, and lubricate a bicycle brake. Read the general information in Braking system pointers- all systems as well as the specific information for the type of brakes on your bike. Brake system pointers- all systems Different brake designs have varying amounts of stopping power.
Rim brake with hand lever Introduction This system consists of one of several types of hand-operated brake levers and brakes: direct-pull brakes (Figure 3.7.1). With this system, the lever is connected to the brake by a cable. By squeezing the No contact lever, pressure is applied to the wheel rim by brake pads. This slows the rotation of the wheel, which Centering screw slows the bike.
any of these grooves are less than 1 mm deep for direct-pull brakes, replace the pads. Every 3 months tighten bolts on brake levers (Figure 3.7.3): • Lever clamp (Figure 3.7.3): 53-69 lb•in (6.0-7.8 Nm) Every 3 months tighten bolts on brakes (Figure 3.7.1): Lever clamp bolt Reach adjustment screw • Pad fixing bolts: 70-80 lb•in (7.9-9 Nm). • Arm fixing bolts: 70-85 lb•in (7.9-9.6 Nm) Barrel adjuster Cable Adjustment Figure 3.7.
To adjust the alignment of the brake pads 1. Loosen the brake pad fixing bolt. 2. Follow the procedures in Inspection to align and tighten the brake pads. 3. After the brakes are adjusted, test the brakes by applying maximum braking force to the levers. Ensure the cable does not slip, the pads close toward the rim at right angles, and the pads do not contact the tire. To install a brake cable 1. Note the path of the old cable, and loosen the brake cable anchor bolt and remove the worn cable. 2.
Lubrication Every 3 months lubricate your brake lever pivots and brake arm fixing pivots with a light oil. See your Gary Fisher dealer for a recommended oil. Whenever a cable is replaced, lubricate the cable with a thin layer of Wrench Force® synthetic grease or a similar lubricant.
Internal, or drum, brakes Introduction Cable clamp bolt Barrel adjuster Cable carrier arm Figure 3.7.6 Internal drum brake The braking mechanism of an internal or drum brake is inside a hub, but it is actuated by a hand lever. The lever is connected to the brake by a cable. This system consists of several parts: • Brake lever • Brake cable and housing • Rear hub Inspection Every month check that the brake cable clamp bolt is tight.
To disconnect the shift cable 1. Put the shifter in 1st gear. 2. Pull the cable housing out of the shift cable housing stop. 3. Rotate the shift cable fixing bolt until the washer flats align with the slit in the cog joint bracket. 4. Remove the cable. To unbolt the axle from the frame When loosening and tightening the axle nuts, do so gradually, in small increments, to prevent effecting the bearing hub adjustment. 1. Slightly loosen the axle nut on one side of the hub by about 1/4 turn. 2.
Hydraulic disc brakes Introduction Instead of pressing on the wheel rim to slow the bike, this braking system presses on a disc that is mounted on the wheel hub (Figure 3.7.7). The disc is attached to the hub with bolts, and a disc brake caliper is attached to the left side of the frame or fork. A special lever, which functions as the brake fluid reservoir, is connected to a hydraulic hose to actuate the brake.
must be bled. Bleeding brakes takes special tools and training; take your bike to your Gary Fisher dealer for service. Check that there is no oil, grease, or other dirt on the disc. The disc (Figure 3.7.6) is part of the braking system, so keep it clean at all times. Remove the brake pads from the caliper during heavy cleaning. Do not use cleanser, de-greaser, or solvents to clean the disc. To clean discs, use isopropyl alcohol. Once a month inspect disc brake pads for wear.
2. Apply the lever fully, and gradually tighten the bolts as specified in Inspection. To remove the brake pads 1. Remove the wheel. 2. With your fingers, or thin-tipped pliers, grasp the installation tang of the brake pad (Figure 3.7.10) and pull out. Wheel removal Removing a wheel with a disc brake does not require opening the brake. Follow the instructions To remove a wheel on page 67, and simply slide the disc out of the brake. When installing the wheel, carefully guide the disc between the brake pads.
Cable Actuated Disc brakes Introduction Instead of pressing on the wheel rim to slow the bike, this braking system presses on a disc that is mounted on the wheel hub (Figure 3.7.11). The brake is actuated by a brake cable operated with a standard brake lever. The disc is attached to the hub with bolts, and a disc brake caliper is attached to the left side of the frame or fork. This system consists of several parts: • Brake lever Figure 3.7.
Tighten the disc brake bolts (Figure 3.7.13): Adapter bolts Mounting bolts Cable clamp bolt Figure 3.7.13 Disc brake attachment bolts Lever clamp bolt • Caliper mounting bolts: 100-110 lb•in (11.3-12.4 Nm) • Adapter mounting bolts using a 5mm allen wrench: 100-110 lb•in (11.3-12.4 Nm) • Adapter bolts using 4mm allen wrench: 60-65 lb•in (6.8-7.3 Nm). • Disc attachment bolts holding the disc to the hub: 45-55 lb•in (5-6.2 Nm) • Cable clamp bolt: 50-70 lb•in (5.7-7.9 Nm).
3. After adjustment, turn the locking nut clockwise to help prevent rotation of the barrel adjuster. To align the brake with the disc 1. Loosen the brake mounting bolts. 2. Slide a business card, or similar thin object, between the right brake pad and the disc. 3. Apply the lever fully, and gradually tighten each mounting bolt as specified in Inspection. To remove the brake pads 1. Remove the wheel. 2. With your fingers, or thin-tipped pliers, grasp the installation tang (Figure 3.7.
Coaster brakes Introduction Brake strap Brake arm attachment bolt Figure 3.7.17 Coaster brake parts Instead of operating by hand, coaster brakes are actuated with the legs by pedalling the crankarms backwards. The chain transmits the motion of the crankarms to the rear hub. The braking mechanism is actually inside the rear hub.
To install the wheel 1. Loop the chain over the hub (not the rear cog), and slide the hub into the dropouts. 2. Push the wheel fully forward, lift the chain onto the rear cog, and pull the wheel back until the proper chain tension is achieved. 3. While holding the wheel straight in the frame, maintain chain tension and reverse the instructions for removing the wheel, including gradual tightening of the axle nuts. 4. If necessary, re-tension the chain (with the chain tensioners, if so equipped). 5.
WHEELS Introduction The wheels (Figure 3.8.1) of a bicycle allow the bike to roll down the road or trail smoothly, so their integrity and structural soundness is crucial. In addition, their relationship to the performance of your brakes is of great importance. These instructions explain how to inspect, adjust, and lubricate the wheels of a bicycle. Inspection The best maintenance of a wheel is preventative maintenance. Be aware of the things that can go wrong, so you can stop trouble before it happens.
Every month check that both hub bearings are properly adjusted. Lift the front end of the bicycle off the ground with one hand and attempt to move the rim laterally, left to right. Look, feel, and listen for any looseness in the hub bearings. Spin the wheel, and listen for any grinding or other unusual noises. If the hub feels loose or makes any noise, the hub needs an adjustment. Repeat these procedures for the rear wheel. Every month, check your rims for wear.
To adjust the tension of a quick-release 1. Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position ���� (Figure 3.8.2) and set the wheel so it firmly touches the inside of the fork ends. 2. With the lever about halfway between the OPEN position and the CLOSED position, tighten the quick-release adjusting nut (Figure 3.8.3) until finger-tight. 3. Place the lever in the palm of your hand and throw the lever as shown in Figure 3.8.4 to the CLOSED position (Figures 3.8.6-3.8.7).
7. Test that you have properly adjusted and closed the quick-release. If the quick-release fails any test, either repeat these adjustment procedures, including these tests, or take your bicycle to your Gary Fisher dealer for service. Test for proper quick-release adjustment • Pick up the bike, and sharply hit the top of the tire (Figure 3.8.9). The wheel must not come off, be loose, or move from side to side. • Make sure the quick-release lever cannot be rotated parallel to the wheel (Figure 3.8.10).
Toothed washer Redundant retention washers For the front wheel of children's bikes and BMX bikes with axle nuts, a special toothed washer must be in place on both sides of the hub for correct wheel retention. The toothed washer is placed on the outside of the fork tip with the tooth in the corresponding hole in the fork tip (Figure 3.8.11). Tricycle wheel retention Figure 3.8.11 Toothed washer On a tricycle front wheel, make sure the axle clamp bolts (Figure 3.8.
To remove a wheel 1. Shift to the smallest rear cog. 2. Open the brake by following the instructions To open the brake, for your type of brakes, in the Brakes section. 3. Open the wheel quick-release, or loosen the axle nuts. 4. For a rear wheel, hold the derailleur cage with your thumb (Figure 3.8.13), and unwind the derailleur cage (Figure 3.8.14). 5. Slide the wheel out of the dropouts. Figure 3.8.13 Thumb on rear derailleur To install a wheel 1.
REFLECTORS Introduction The reflectors on your bicycle illuminate when a light is shone on them, directing some of the light back to the source. In poor lighting conditions, if an oncoming vehicle has their lights on, the reflectors may help the other vehicle see your bike. Reflectors are an important part of your bicycle’s safety equipment. Do not remove the reflectors from your bicycle.
BICYCLE TIRE INSTALLATION These instructions are written for standard wheel systems where the air inside the tire is contained in an inner tube. Follow these steps when repairing or replacing a tube in the event of a flat tire, or when replacing a worn tire. To remove a wheel from the bike 1. Follow the instructions To open the brake, in the Brake System section of this chapter. 2. Follow the instructions To remove a wheel, in the Wheels section of this chapter. Figure 3.8.
6. Starting at the valve stem, install the first bead onto the rim (Figure 3.8.16). 7. Push the tire and tube over so the tube is inside the rim (Figure 3.8.17). 8. Again starting at the valve stem, carefully push the second bead into the rim using your hands. Be careful not to pinch the tube between the rim and the tire (Figure 3.8.18) when mounting the tire. Figure 3.8.19 Inner tube contained by the tire and the rim 9.
TRICYCLE TIRE INSTALLATION These instructions are written for the Gary Fisher tricycle rear wheel (Figure 3.8.20), where a split rim design holds a standard tire and tube, and where the air inside the tire is contained in an inner tube. Follow these steps when repairing or replacing a tube in the event of a flat tire, or when replacing a worn tire. To repair a flat rear tire, it is not necessary to remove the wheel from the axle. To remove the tire from the wheel 1. Deflate the tire completely. 2.
TUBELESS-COMPATIBLE WHEEL SYSTEM Some Gary Fisher bicycles are equipped with a Bontrager tubeless-compatible wheel system. This system can be used with "Tubeless" tires, and also with standard tires when an inner tube is used. The tubeless mode requires special parts: • Tubeless tire • Tubeless rim • Tubeless rim strip • Tubeless valve stem On some models of bicycles, "Tubeless-compatible" wheelsets are sold without these components installed.
A tubeless tire must be complete sealed to the rim Before a tubeless tire can be inflated, both beads must make full contact with the rim strip at the bottom of the rim well, all the way around the rim. For this to happen, a tubeless tire must fit more tightly on the rim than a conventional tire. With a snug fitting tubeless tire, bare-handed installation may be difficult. If you use tire levers for installation or removal, avoid damaging the rim or abrading the tire beads.
3. Roll the tire, along with both beads, so the second bead is at the bottom of the rim well (Figure 3.10.3). This provides some slack in the beads. 4. Finish installing the second bead. To inflate a tubeless tire Note: To help remove any gaps between the tire beads and rimstrip, hold both beads, adjacent to the valve stem, up and out of the center channel with your fingers. Figure 3.10.3 Stacking the beads Bead lock 1.
2. With the wheel facing you, roll the tire up and away from the rim with your thumbs (Figure 3.10.5) while you use your fingers to stack the beads (Figure 3.10.3). 3. At the valve, pull the lower, slacker bead of the tire up, out, and away from the rim (Figure 3.10.6). 4. Keep pulling the loosened bead up and out of the rim, rolling and pushing the tire toward the hub until the bead is completely off the rim. 5. Remove the other bead, starting at the valve. To remove the valve stem Figure 3.10.
Rim strip direction 4. With the tire lever, lift and roll the rim strip over the opposite rim hook (Figure 3.10.8). 5. Continue to roll the rim strip up and out of the rim as you work your way fully around the rim. To install the rim strip Tire lever Figure 3.10.8 Rolling the rim strip There are two styles of tubeless rim strips; one for symmetric rims, and one for asymmetric rims where the spoke bed is not centered in the rim.
SUSPENSION SYSTEMS: FORKS A suspension fork, like a shock absorber, allows the front wheel to move over bumps with less vertical motion transmitted to the bike or rider. Suspension forks require regular lubrication to work smoothly and to provide long seal life. Read the Suspension Fork Owner's Manual you received with your bike. If you did not receive a fork manual, get one from your dealer, contact us and we’ll send you one, or download one from an internet site: www.rockshox.com www.answerproducts.
SUSPENSION SYSTEMS: REAR SHOCKS Rear suspension allows the rear wheel to move over bumps with less vertical motion transmitted to the bike or rider. If your bicycle is equipped with rear suspension, ensure that it is operating properly before every ride. Read the Rear Shock Owner's Manual you received with your bike. If you did not receive a shock manual, get one from your dealer, contact us and we’ll send you one, or download one from an internet site: www.rockshox.com www.foxshocks.
Sugar This system connects the swingarm to the both the shock and rocker linkage (Figure 3.12.1). Linkage bolts Inspection After every 10 hours of use inspect the shock mounting bolts and the linkage bolts for tightness. Remove the nut from the bolt or axle, clean the threads thoroughly, and apply a threadlocking compound (Loctite 242 is excellent). Tighten the bolts to these torques: Shock mount Pivot • Shock mounting bolts 133-164 lb•in (15.0-18.5 Nm). • Linkage bolts 50-75 lb•in (5.7-8.5 Nm).
Sugar+ This suspension system works following the same principles as the Sugar suspension frame on the previous page. Its inspection, maintenance, and lubrication are the same, so refer to that page. The difference is that the Sugar+ offers additional adjustment, explained below. Shock mount bolt Long-travel position Adjustment Figure 3.12.2 Sugar+ suspension parts Read and follow the adjustment information on the previous page for the Sugar full suspension bike.
CARE OF YOUR FRAME OR FORK Gary Fisher bicycle frames are constructed from a variety of high performance materials. For safe operation, and long life, take care of your bike frame by following these instructions. Inspection Before every ride carefully inspect your frameset (frame and fork) for signs of fatigue. Scratches, cracks, dents, deformation, or discoloration are signs of stress-caused fatigue. If any part shows signs of damage or fatigue, replace the part before riding the bicycle.
chemicals. Remove road film with a soft rag and a mild detergent and water solution. Use of industrial solvents for cleaning or paint removal may damage the paint. Removing paint from any frameset requires special techniques and great care. Harsh abrasives will remove frame material, possibly weakening the bicycle. See your Gary Fisher dealer for more information. Excessive heat, such as that used in powder coating, or any open flame, may damage the adhesive which joins the frame parts.
CHAPTER THREE Inspection, Adjustment & Lubrication 83
GARY FISHER BICYCLES LIMITED WARRANTY Gary Fisher Bicycle Company warrants each new Gary Fisher bicycle frame and rigid fork against defects in workmanship and materials for the lifetime of the original owner. Gary Fisher Bicycles Company likewise warrants all original parts, excluding suspension forks and rear shock absorbers, for a period of one year from the date of purchase. Suspension forks and rear shock absorbers shall be covered by the stated warranty of their original manufacturers.
