Full Product Manual

12 13
FINISH PROBLEMS
ORANGE PEEL - If the finish is rough and resembles orange peel then
the material is too thick. (Or perhaps you have the Air Control Valve
turned down - please check that it is fully open). The ‘paint’ will not
atomize properly and the surface will be spotty. To remedy this, add
more thinner (or appropriate solvent). For fast drying products such as
lacquers, you may also want to add a lacquer retarder. This will slow
the drying time allowing the material to flow out and level nicely.
Retarders are available for other coatings too, such as Penetrol for Oil-
based paints or Floetrol for Latex house paints. These products go
under different names such as Flow-Out Additives etc. Please check
with the coatings manufacturer.
NOTE: With the newer water-based materials ‘orange peel’ is usually a
result of spraying on too thick a film. Try spraying an extremely
THIN FILM, but still WET coat. With most other coatings, orange
peel is caused by material being too thick or not enough atomizing
power. This is why we suggest leaving the air control valve fully open
when experimenting with a new coating material, otherwise it will
cause confusion. If the the air control valve is fully open (or perhaps
removed for Latex spraying) then orange peel can only be one cause -
the material is too thick and must be thinned.
GRITTY FINISH - If the material is too thin, it is likely to run or be
over-atomized, producing a rough gritty finish. Try thinning the product
less and spraying a wetter coat.
FILTER(S)
The M-Series Turbines has 2 Filters. To remove, simply pull the Filters
out from the bottom of the Filter Enclosures. Wash in solvent and dry
before replacing.
All Fuji Filters are a friction fit. The Filter must fill the entire Filter
Enclosure.
One of the Filters is Fine and one Coarse - the Fine Filter is installed
to the Left Side and the Coarse to the Right Side (as seen looking at
the front of the Turbine where the Hose is connected).
SPRAYGUN PROBLEMS
NO PAINT (OR VERY LITTLE PAINT)
The air passing through the Pressure Tube 40 to pressurize the Cup is
blocked. This means that either the Tube itself, the Check Valve, or
one of the two Nipples are blocked. A pipe cleaner can be used for
cleaning the hole in the Nipple.
• Pressurizing Tube and/or Nipples are blocked - COMMON
• The Cup is not tightened down sufficiently by the Lever or the
Cup Gasket is worn and leaking air
• The Cup is empty
• The metal Fluid Tube is blocked with paint - RARE
• The Fluid Coupler is blocked with paint - RARE
UNEVEN SPRAY PATTERN
One of the holes in the Aircap may be blocked. Or, the paint could be
dirty and is partially blocking the Fluid Nozzle. Remove the Aircap and
clean by soaking in solvent and using the soft Bristle Brush or a rag.
NEVER use metal objects to clean holes in the Aircap.
LEAKAGE
If paint material comes out of the Fluid Nozzle without pulling the
Trigger...
• The Needle is not seating in the Fluid Nozzle properly
• The Needle Packing may be too tight preventing the
Needle from moving - See Page 15 Packing Adjustment
• Foreign matter trapped between Needle and Fluid Nozzle
• The Needle or Fluid Nozzle could be damaged or worn
• Loose Fluid Nozzle
• Wrong Nozzle size installed
CUP LEAKS
• Oil above and below the Lever to smooth the Lever action
• Change Gasket/Diaphragm
• Leak around Nipple - use Loctite to seal
• Leak around Side Pins - use Loctite to seal
• Leak through Lid - remove Nut under Lid - use Loctite